[shark]

Gardened the juggy buttress today that you almost brush past on the walk-in 50 yards before getting to the eatswood Traverse.



6A+/6B No footblocks. Start matched in the obvious slot on the right end and head left to top out on the nose. This is just within sight of the house so keep a low profile.



6B/6B+ No footblocks. Start matched on chest high holds on lip on left end and make pumpy moves to the slot on the right. Purists wuill match   

Not going to name them yet after last time's experience but they are not here:
http://esotericboulderingcompanion.weebly.com/ 

Anyone done them already?

[bolehillbilly]

Not guilty this time Shark. 
I did have a good look at this block but wasn't sure what the best solution was to making the most of the rock, the left arête start was obvious but didn't think of going all the way right.  Looks like a couple more good lines for the Eatswood collection.
 

[shark]

Not guilty this time Shark. 
I did have a good look at this block but wasn't sure what the best solution was to making the most of the rock, the left arête start was obvious but didn't think of going all the way right.  Looks like a couple more good lines for the Eatswood collection.
 

Thanks bolehillbilly - that was quick.

Bring on the Brexit related names...

[shark]

Bring on the Brexit related names...

Obviously no one's in the mood so Sharkey's Right and Sharkey's Backward

[lagerstarfish]

no one else is in the mood to fessing up to climbing on a banned crag within sight of the residents

Sharkey's Right and Sharkey's Wrong ?

(to be fair, I know little about the access situation there)

[shark]

no one else is in the mood to fessing up to climbing on a banned crag within sight of the residents

They aren't the landowners - they just take exception to climbers. Its a couple of hundred yards from their house across a field and you are in the trees topping out so you would be unlucky to be seen and they would be trespassing too if they came to do anything about it

[webbo]

Definite leaf dab at 19 secs in first vid. Back round.

[fatneck]

Brexit Bellends?

[Jaspersharpe]

How about "Boris Johnson Is A Fucking Cunt" and "Boris Johnson Is Still A Fucking Cunt"?

[tomtom]

How about in, out.

Or trying to mix things together..

Bellend Boris' Brexit Bumscrape.
and
Bumscrape Brexit Boris' Bellend.

[Bonjoy]

Brexistential Angst ?

[JamieG]

Brexistential Angst ?

Good name, I like it.

Also maybe I've missed something but why is it "Eatswood", rather than "eatswood", in the title?

[slackline]

Also maybe I've missed something but why is it "Eatswood", rather than "eatswood", in the title?

Because when talking about bouldering you capitalise, if we were talking about Corpse Crack (a trad route at the same crag) then we would use the lowercase form 'eatswood'

[shark]

Brexistential Angst ?

Like it.

Ive put them up on UKC but as you are the Moderator can you change one of them to "Brexistential Angst" 

[tomtom]

Brexistential Angst ?

Like it.

Ive put them up on UKC but as you are the Moderator can you change one of them to "Brexistential Angst"

How about Brexistential State for the other?

[JamieG]

Also maybe I've missed something but why is it "Eatswood", rather than "eatswood", in the title?

Because when talking about bouldering you capitalise, if we were talking about Corpse Crack (a trad route at the same crag) then we would use the lowercase form 'eatswood'

I messed up. I meant to write eatswood! East not Eats.

[JamieG]

Oi! It changes automatically. Que?

[lagerstarfish]

Oi! It changes automatically. Que?

banned crags innit - auto change so residents, tree huggers and landowners can't search the internet for proof that dirty climbers plan to trespass on their land and ruin the world

[lagerstarfish]

although I do look forward to the day when Google asks "do you mean Eatswood bouldering?"

[nai]

THe right to Left could obviously be Brexit Stage Left. Sorry, hope there was no rush for this.

[dave]

There's no need to name these problems until someone files for Article 50.

[shark]

There's no need to name these problems until someone files for Article 50.

" The Article 50 extension" ?

[Offwidth]

if we were talking about Corpse Crack (a trad route at the same crag) then we would use the lowercase form 'eatswood'

Maybe you mean Eats wood (the start crack is also a problem and probably most climbed that way)

[slackline]

Maybe you mean Eats wood (the start crack is also a problem and probably most climbed that way)

Nope, I meant Corpse Crack (*** HVS 5a).

[Jaspersharpe]

I think it was a continuation of your joke slackers. You were joking weren't you.....

[slackline]

Ah, it went over my head, I went and checked and couldn't find Eats wood listed (was going to check the BMC guide when I got home but won't bother now).

My original post was intended to be a joke.

[Jaspersharpe]

I know it was. I was joking.

[slackline]

[Offwidth]

A problem into a route of my discovery would more likely be called Eats cakes.

[tomtom]

Is this all to do with GuyVG, sorry Wood FT's new username?

[bolehillbilly]

All this name stuff is lost on me but on the climbing front did both problems today. 
Good additions,  quality rock.  Left to right was most decent, climbed more like a roof than a lip style problem. The right to left should go footless but obviously not by me...

[shark]

All this name stuff is lost on me but on the climbing front did both problems today. 
Good additions,  quality rock.  Left to right was most decent, climbed more like a roof than a lip style problem. The right to left should go footless but obviously not by me...

 

What grades ?  On second thoughts don't say

Never thought of footless  - presumably dropping off at the end rather than a muscle-up and handspring for the top out       

[bolehillbilly]

B4 and B5   

Once article 50 is invoked I hear Font grades will be first thing to go.