[monkoffunk]

This is unlikely to hold much interest to many people, but going to post it anyway: Certainly not written up, probably new boulder problem to the right of Winkle Picker on Portland Bill. Uses the 'tempting holds' mentioned in the Dorest  guidebook. Pickled Winky seemed the obvious name. Thought 6C+ stand maybe soft 7A sit but could be a bit optimistic!

Included in this video:

[Will Hunt]

Actually looks quite good, that

[monkoffunk]

I thought so! The stand might be a bit better than the sit, but the rock over press on the lip is really cool, and quite a committing feeling snatch.

[Herbert]

Looks good. Have you done Winkle Picker out of interest? Last time I was there I was couldn't work out where it started.

[monkoffunk]

Looks good. Have you done Winkle Picker out of interest? Last time I was there I was couldn't work out where it started.

One move stumped me. Ran out of pinch power in the left hand, but think it should go next time. The holds are chalked in my video and it is in Huffy's Portland Bill video on YouTube. I'll find link later!

[Herbert]

Thanks, found it. After this rain and gloom no doubt your chalk will be gone, but the vid should help!

[monkoffunk]

Winkle Picker sit start begins around 0:47 in Huffy's video. Sloper and pinch at the lip are start holds for the stand.

[Coops_13]

I gave this a go on Monday, got spanked by the stand, not being able to rock up on that right foot - blamed shoulder difficulties at the time haha 

Looked at Winkle Picker and it looked to me as if a crucial hold had come off, the right-hand hold over the lip that the man in Huffy's video grabs looks to be not there anymore. There's a scar in the rough place where his hand was, no pictures unfortunately. Hopefully I didn't see it because I was being stupid...

[monkoffunk]

Oh cool, glad someone tried it! Hope shoulder gets sorted out soon, it is quite press-y, can't just pull!
I think I remember what you mean about winkle picker, I think I just used a crimp in the scar. Certainly when I was there you could use something, and it was a move later on that spat me off, so unless someone has pulled something off in mean time. I'll take a look next time I'm down there!

[Coops_13]

Oh cool, glad someone tried it! Hope shoulder gets sorted out soon, it is quite press-y, can't just pull!
I think I remember what you mean about winkle picker, I think I just used a crimp in the scar. Certainly when I was there you could use something, and it was a move later on that spat me off, so unless someone has pulled something off in mean time. I'll take a look next time I'm down there!

Yeah there was a small crimp in the scar, I didn't fancy it haha. Was there something bigger before do you know?


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[monkoffunk]

No idea! I did think the move from that position with the heel hook up seemed really hard, would be reassuring if it was harder now. Certainly I wouldn't be surprised if something had changed. All quite friable. I broke a foot hold at top of Iron Curtains, and that whole section of cliff that Huffy goes and stands on after climbing Winkle Picker has collapsed now!