2)both mentally and physically, rests seem more effective if i am active and i can walk away from the boulder/route. If you can, avoid sitting there.
This approach now extends to going to the crag with the intent of "just working the moves", rather than "today is the day!". It makes a huge difference for me, your results may vary.
Shit conditions today, I'll just go up and strip the draws.
Oh the other thing is a bit of positivity. Not necessarily 'it will definitely go this time', but certainly not 'you are so shit you can't even climb'. That doesn't help either. Think I was getting into the habit of being a bit over self critical recently.
As for rest, I think for longer sport I need more say 30 mins at least... Need to do something to re-warm up and get re-recruited.
New age hippy zen.
Just judging by a couple of posts up - if you are on Directoonima, be patient and wait till the sun's been off the crag for a little while and I bet the top crux of SAMTK will feel a lot easier.
oh, talking of strategies.working/reharsing moves and short sections in the sun/bad conditions, try for real in good conditions.For similar reasons, save little extras such as the best pair of shoes or liquid chalk for the real redpoint.
not really.very simply, each of the following situations has high potential for distraction and "nearly done it" mess:-100% convinced that i will do it : any small mistake or "harder than expected" move starts some unnecessary self talk, which makes me slower and more prone to other errors-100% convinced that i won't do it : i don't even fight. I let go as soon as i'm not cruising anymore.-anxious about the uncertain result: to me, it has a similar effect to being scared about falling. I'll end up not really trying to make that desperate move stick (so i get a predictable result: a fall that has been anticipated for a fraction of a second, and somehow "chosen") instead of really going for it and getting a random outcome.
loosely related, but OT: on subjectively important redpoints, especially when sport climbing, i feel that the style of encouragements matters. The worst being silence followed by vigourous shouting at the crux and phrases such as "you got this...do it man!". It really disrupts my concentration and makes my anxiety levels go through the roof.The best being a constant, calm repetition of very simple words, like a background noise, or a music loop: "c'mon...allez...c'mon...allez..."
I once had my gf on her hands and knees