[csl]

STG - the next month
Regularly climb problems on the Green circuit at the Arch - done
Stick to training plan each week - ok so far
1 day out on rock - done

MTG - june
Go to Ceuse fit and strong, climb privilege.

LTG - end of year
8a

Mon

Hard Boulders + AeroCAp

Tue

AnCap + 4x4's

Friday
Hard Boulders + Foot on Campus

[shark]

I'm too depressed to post. I put up some "new" problems that were done year ago at several grades below what I thought they were and got schooled at Ramshaw bouldering. Maturely I'm taking solace with a bottle of wine - bless it's pointed little head

[Falling Down]

STG - Train indoors three times this week & complete the white circuit at the Westway bouldering wall.
MTG - Get powered up to 6C+/7Afor a weekend blast in Switzerland in May
LTG - fuck knows...

A good week after a some wheel spinning.  I realised I was actually quite weak compared to my old levels a few years back so have decided to get my bouldering grade back up and use that as a basis for building some PE on top so am aiming for a bit of a strength/power phase for the next few weeks to get back to V6/7a levels.

W - Bouldering at the Westway.  Did all the Reds (V2-V3) and a couple of the Whites (V3-V4)
T - 3 X 10 sets of 70kg deadlifts plus 3 X 20 20kg KB swings
F - Stiff and sore.
S - Good session at the Westway.  All the greens and a few reds to warm up.  Then did three whites I couldn't do on Wednesday after a few tries.  Recovery time between goes is really improving.  Tried a couple of the blacks (V4-V5) and did the moves but couldn't link. Just three whites left to do (slab, cave and arête).
S - 10 sets of 5 reps of 100kg deadlifts.  First time I've picked up a 100kg for five years.

Feeling good physically and really enjoying the climbing at the wall.  Pretty fucking psyched TBH.    

[Muenchener]

STG (April) under 80kg. This weeks's average 82.1, down 0.4. Quite good.
MTG (2016): Redpoint 7b
LTG (<= 5 years): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.

M: Half an hour mobility/antagonist stuff
T: Wall, Thalkirchen. Eight routes (attempts) up to 6c+. Forearm endurance felt pretty good from the circuits I've been doing; need to get used to going uphill again.
W: Physio visit for shoulder. "Does this hurt?". Yes. "And this?". Ouch ... "Hmm. They're not *all* supposed to hurt". The massage hurt too, but it felt good afterwards.
   Cough, headache.
T: Cough, headache, sore throat, nosebleeds. Nosebleeds?  Haven't had them since childhood.
F: Shoulder physio. The immediate problem seems to be the long head of the biceps tendon.
   Headache, sore throat but at least blood stayed where it belongs. Spent the day  in bed.
S: Cough, headache considerably better.
S: Climbing, Nassereith. Second day outside on a rope this year, focused on getting some mileage in to sort my head out. This went quite well. Redpointed a 6c that involved pulling over an imposing looking roof that turned out to be harmless - this is a minor yyfy because pulling over imposing looking roofs is very much not my specialist subject.

[Duma]

Goals: 8A and 8b by next June

68kg. (av.) Was actually 67on Thurs for the first time in about a decade...

Body audit: thumb didn't seem too bad on Monday after feeling like I'd pushed it on the Sunday before, however feel like tweaked it again today (see below).

M: took daughter swimming, not much exercise, but fair bit of breath holding, which must count for something.
T: TCA eve, circuits on newly reset 15 degree board, couple of fairly crimpy things: purple "7a+" that I flashed, white "7b" that took 4 goes of getting to within a couple of moves of the finish. Tried to shake and link back into purple when I managed the white, didn't get far... Felt like decent training for the thin stuff at the top of SW when pumped.
W:
T: went in to TCA for an hour or so, but just to help John strip the steep circuit board. Felt like a bit of a workout to an office monkey though!
F: Cheddar, Lion Rock. Shadow Walker again. Bit cooler and less seep than last week, so loads better nick. Warm up dogging up Valley of the Blind, getting clips in for my mate, then on to SW. 1st go putting clips in, got as far as attempting 1st crux. Pleased as equalled best go last week. Bit of a faff as hadn't linked 2nd crux and it's a little run out, so pulled up clip stick and extended the bolt a fair way to ease working that section.
2nd go got through to the undercut rest before the top crux, pleased as that was one of the main goals this session. Rubbish attempt at top crux though, basically bottled it. Pulled up to next bolt, then managed the link from undercuts to top, though without the crucial clip. Good to link the crux sequence though.
3rd go through to the undercuts again, managed a decent shake, climbed straight through the top crux on auto pilot, but didn't quite get the pocket you clip from well enough, tried to step up for next (easy) move, and came off. Obviously pretty gutted as I'd basically got through all the hard climbing (about 7 easier moves from high point to lower off) but after the initial disappointment really pleased with getting so far so soon. Good to gave taken that fall too. Sorted better feet for that clip after pulling back up, so more confident I can manage it if I can get through top crux again.
4th go, knackered. Fell at 1st crux. Re did top crux and clip though.
S:
S: TCA, easy couple of hours with daughter. Flashed new 7a on steep circuits board pleased as John set it with lots of undercuts for sw training as thanks for me stripping on Thurs. Unfortunately tweaked thumb couple of times catching daughter, bit sore now.

Weather looks pretty horrible for next week,  so might be a little while before I get back on it, so psyched at the moment though!

[shurt]

Thank you Conor. Drown those sorrows away Shark.

STG: more 7's on the bolts
MTG: some nice bouldering maybe and getting out on rock more
LTG: 8a

Mon-Fri: nothing

Sat: arranged a morning out with Ed at short notice and went to The Quarry at Cheddar for a quick thrash. Its all short and powerful there. Climbing feels like a funny old game sometimes. You slog away and feel like you aren't really getting anywhere and then seemingly do fuck all and something great happens. I put so much work into getting fit for a trip to Spain and was then ill when I got there. I've certainly had terrible sleep and done bugger all training for the last 2-3 weeks since getting back so expected to be well off the pace. Anyway, I went out with no expectations and after a good warm up found myself getting on a 7b+ Insatiable which I'd tried before. I felt strong and with a small but significant beta tweek thanks to Ed I did the route 2nd redpoint and it honestly felt pretty straightforward. It's my first route at that grade as well, no siege required (as Phil Collins might say).
I've had something similar to this in the past when I did some really hard (for me) boulder problems in NZ. I did a few sessions of climbing on some days off from a kitchen job over a few months then worked solidly for two weeks. Next day back climbing was amazing as were the next days after. Maybe I just need a lot of rest, maybe we all do.

Sun: nothing 

[nai]

problems that were done year ago at several grades below what I thought they were

Doesn't mean they're right and you're not.

[ashtond6]

Mtg 7c
Ltg 8a

Non descript week - but that was the plan after a great week in Spain

M rest
T rest
W rest
T went to stanage, did some nice problems like cave roof. Bumped into Duncan C, then did a fun 6C through sloper traverse
F rest and eating
S short day at froggatt, did a number of 6A/Bs.
S chilled day at stanage, did Desparation (which I still think is E3!) among some other classics. Then tried a fun 7A traverse near apparent north. Unfortunately dropped in on the last move of the 6A it finishes up!

[a dense loner]

problems that were done year ago at several grades below what I thought they were

Doesn't mean they're right and you're not.

Exactly, don't let the bastards grind you down Shark

[Luke Owens]

New little one no. 2 is settling in well, 10 days old now and sleep and eating well, not sleep deprived which is nice.

Feels weird not having a big project like left wall traverse on my mind and no real training plan. Going to get outdoors for some more bouldering in the coming weeks, keen to do some classic North Wales 7B's.

M: Rest

T: Fingerboard - Max hangs on 20mm edge, had to take off weight for the progressive set:

Rep 1: 10 sec (-5kg), Rep 2: 10 sec (-2.5kg), Rep 3: 10 Sec (-1.5kg)

Main Set: 3 x 8 sec (Unweighted)

Also did another max hang set on the 14mm edge on the BM but had to take tons of weight off:

3 x 10 secs (-8kg)

Finger strength punter...

W - S: Rest

S: Took our 3 and a half year old son to the climbing wall on the rope properly for the first time, couldn't believe how well he took too it. He got to the top of the 8m slab about 10 times and loved every minute of it. Ended up staying there for 4 hours and he still didn't want to leave... Haha!

Did some climbing while he was eating lunch:

20' Board: 2 x 7A, 2 x 7A+ (all repeats)

45' Board: 2 x 6C+, 7A, had a quick go on the project from the other week and figured out better beta for the start.

[monkoffunk]

STG: Font 7A+, before summer gets hot.
MTG: 1. French 7c+, before 1/1/17. 2. Tick unfinished business list (0/13).
LTG: 1. Cider Soak and Academic, before 1/1/18. 2. Font 7B+, before 1/1/18.

M – Micro-workout/conditioning. Core/press-up/squat routine.
T – Rest. Flexibility.
W – Unintended rest. Wanted to go to Cuttings bouldering but tipping it down. Flexibility.
T – Cuttings sport climbing. Failed efforts on Hall of Mirrors, hardest route on my unfinished business list, this one tried once in 2012 and couldn’t hold holds at start of crux. Poor redpoint tactics. Put loads of pressure on myself to do in a session, and wasn’t relaxed on it. Really annoying as thought was way more easy than Valley of the Blind which took five goes. Anyway, lessons learned… 
F – Hard boulders in Castle Climbing Centre. Fun.
S – Micro-workout/conditioning. Core/press-up/squat routine. Mostly rest. Big party. Only really got to sleep (on the floor) when the noisy Australians left at 0630. Drank no alcohol though so win for me.
S – Flexibility. Rest. Job done.

[the_dom]

Mon: Deadlifts up to 170kgs (2 x BW!), bouldering and max hangs
Tues: 20 hard-ish mins on the treadmill
Wed: Deadlifts up to 175kgs, bouldering and max hangs
Thurs: Tired trail run
Fri: Deadlifts up to 175kgs and max hangs
Sat: Early surf followed by couch potato-ing
Sun: Bouldering. Ticked some problems up to 7Bish. Good day out, despite being really, really hot (30+ degrees)

Good week but am heavier than I'd like as a result of eating horribly and drinking too much (Fiance has been away on a work trip).

[kelvin]

this is a minor yyfy because pulling over imposing looking roofs is very much not my specialist subject.

All ready for WCJ Cornice this summer then eh?

[T_B]

84Kg

M - School lunch. Testing out oblique, OK if not on 50deg board.
T - Foundry lunch. LI AeroCap. P.M. Run 10.2km / 256m around Owler Tor/Millstone/Padley/Yarncliffe/White edge.
W -
T - School lunch. 10 x 13-move AnCap circuit (40 secs on, 90 secs rest). Bit easy but felt good to do a structured workout. P.M. Ran home 8Km / 147m.
F - Foundry lunch. HI AeroCap.
S - Eldest's 5 yr old b-day party with 40 kids
S - Stanage with Mrs T_B. Had a look at Ben's Reverse and did all moves but in the full sun and worried about how much you have to pull on left hamstring. Did Zippy's which felt easy. Then headed over to the pit as R wanted to try it. Good conditions. Struggled with getting the sidepull at first, but then remembered the body position. The first time I got my heel in the right place and was able to roll onto it properly I got the intermediate with my right and this time the move to the jug was a formality. Bingo! I remember first trying Brad Pit about 15 years ago with Ben Heason and I must have been on it every year since. Today I wasn't even that bothered as was more psyched about my afternoon run . P.M. Win Hill - Lose Hill - Win Hill 14.4Km / 811m. V slow but included going directly up Win Hill from Hope on the final ascent, which is about as steep as you can find in the Peak. Training starts for Buttermere-Sailbeck in May.

Bit more climbing psyche/structure this week. Oblique is sorting itself out quickly, leaving my sprained index finger as my only injury. It still hurts 4 weeks on, but hey, Tommy Caldwell does alright without an index finger.

Can't believe I've finally done Brad Pit after all these years.

[dave]

Nice one T_B.

[lagerstarfish]

my afternoon run . P.M. Win Hill - Lose Hill - Win Hill 14.4Km / 811m. V slow but included going directly up Win Hill from Hope on the final ascent, which is about as steep as you can find in the Peak.

nice one

I don't run, but looking over in that direction yesterday morning made me think about it

[kelvin]

Nice work TB

[Nibile]

Power Club
STG - Chironico at the end of April.
MTG - train PE.

Mon - quick recruitment, then two goes on the circuit. Poor the first one, embarassing the second one. 20 degrees already at the board. Dammit. Must sort new rungs. Weights complex x2. Very tired.
Tue - rest.
Wed - ab wheel: two normal sets of 14 moves, 5 normal ones, 6 with a 5" pause at full stretch and 3 with a 10" pause. Ended up with a single with a 45" pause at full stretch. Brilliant. 2' weights complex x2. Phew! Glad it was over.
Thu - climbing class. Feet on campusing 4'x2. Good. Some climbing. Ab Doms.
Fri - rest. Ab Doms.
Sat - board climbing. Nearly did project, then used a better hold for the crux and did it as end-of-the-season consolation tick. Snatch, overhead carry, shoulder carry, farmer's walk. Brilliant session, very satisfying. Time to move on. Summer of SAM. 
Sun - 170 kms of twisty roads with my motorcycle. Fantastic. Tiring.

Time to move on. Temps are rising and projects become even harder. The Plan for Spring and Summer is there, staying strong and getting fit. I'm going to buy new rungs for my board to train PE and AeroCap.
Too much partying though as of late.

[Muenchener]

this is a minor yyfy because pulling over imposing looking roofs is very much not my specialist subject.

All ready for WCJ Cornice this summer then eh?

Now that *is* an imposing looking roof. Even if we intend to cross it at the narrowest point.

[Coops_13]

STG: Heal knee, wrist, fingers....
MTG: Get solid on 7B/+ boulder and 7b/+ sport
LTG: 8A & 8a

M: MRI on knee
T:
W:
T: Saw doc for ongoing wrist issues, had x-ray with MRI Arthogram ordered for next week
F: Follow-up with knee doc, no permanent damage to knee and no surgery required!!!!  Just a strain to my MCL and ACL and some fluid in the knee which should all heal with a bit of physio
S: Shut down by virus
S: Shut down by virus

Relatively productive week on the healing myself front, though have been shut down by a virus for the last 4 days... Haven't eaten much at all, lost 9 Kg since before I went to Slovenia 

[cheque]

Can't believe I've finally done Brad Pit after all these years.

 

did Desparation (which I still think is E3!)

It's nails.

STG (next month or so)- get big wall fitness required for making film.
MTG (by late Autumn 2016)- Finish film while making progress towards LTG.
LTG (by end Nov 2019)- 8a.

M- Rest.

Tu- Walk to Stanage End from A57- took 13kg bag and soloed one easy route.

W- Rest. Hit on the idea of putting a 10kg weight in my "schoolbag". I  don't do that much walking/ stair climbing during a normal day but it all adds up

Th- Rest. Heavy bag again.

F- Went to Bell Hagg to find out exactly how long it takes to walk there from my new place (not long), how vegetated the trad routes are (pretty vegetated) and what sort of shape it's in after a wet period at the start of spring (damp and green). When you factor in some litter, the parallels with Black Rocks are pretty strong! Led one Diff- had to use a quite thin hold while peeling moss off a much bigger one and felt myself getting pumped.    Carted the heavy bag I'd taken to work around with me which was more work than I expected as I barely put it down to climb anything and did a lot of scrambling around mulchy slopes using my unerring ability to not fin the easiest paths on first acquaintance.

Sa- Walk into the city and back. No heavy bag.

Su- Burbage. Depressingly inept day of trad bumbling. Carried all the gear, which deliberately included my full big wall- sized rack.

Getting fitter by carting at least 10kg with me everywhere. So bad at rock climbing right now though.

[JackAus]

STG: More V8s. Consistent sub 75kg. Finger recovery.
MTG: V9. Fear Factory List. 7/10 done. Have a fun NZ trip.
LTG: V11.

M: Rest.
T: St Leonards. New stuff. Did most. Finger limited me. Abit of core after.
W: Rest.
T: St Leonards. 50 probs in session then started making hard moves that didn't affect finger. Abit of core after.
F: Rest.
S: Frontline. Social climb with a group. Pretty much just did easy stuff for the day. Repeated V6 dyno first go, pleased with that. Got close to doing Full Metal Jacket V7/8. Very close.
S: Lindfield. Circuit. Just stuff up to V4. Maybe crimped a little too hard, finger sore after this one.

The hip breaker that is Full Metal Jacket.

[shark]

11.1-2

M. Eve. Used DBs to replicate gastoning and overhead undercutting. Curls. Rings exercises. Wide pull ups. Pushed myself harder than last time. Really struggled to do any pullups at end. No deadlifts cos of tweaky back. Felt wrecked.
T. Eve. Hustled Tommy out to Peak after he got in from school as it looked to be the nicest evening this week. Went to Froggatt and we did Crash Test and Look Before You Leap. Both stiff and requiring several attempts. I recced Computer Say No buttress in the mistaken belief that Glass Slipper was there - looked dirty and unapealling. Finished up at Crash Test boulder as Norton and SamT arrived. Managed to find Glass Slipper eventually Tim M there. A few goes on it but not successful. Felt tired. Had to rush back to take Poppy to guides.
W.
T.
F. AM eatswood. Stopped off at "unclimbed" small buttress on walk in with a step ladder and gave it a bit of a brush and ended up doing 4 fun new problems of which 3 turned out not to be new. Had 6 goes on eatswood Reverse (a record for me?) Felt stronger than ever. Go 3 had a brain fart after doing the crux and forgot a hold that was in front of my face and pumped out. Go 5 got to the very end with cold fingers and body shut down and couldn't do the very last udge to the finishing ledge
S.
S. Ramshaw with the boys. Thought with it being sunnyish and having a breeze would be a good location but actually a bit too breezy and cold. Did the Arete both sides (6A) and then did "5c Wall" 6A next to it which took several goes and ended up cutting a tip. On to the main event - Tierdrop. Have had two sessions on this in the last 12 months. Didnt do as well as previously though held the rail with my left briefly. Ben did one better and matched it.


No Oak action this week. Undercut was wet and looked likely to stay that way so declined a couple of trips up there. Reportedly it was dry on Friday. Nevertheless good to take a week off and have been mainly good with diet but still about 4lbs heavier than my level from the Autumn.
The week started well but feel lacking in confidence now and not psyched for tuesday trip to Malham. Am going to try links on the Oak from thin undercut by second bolt which seems on the face of it silly as it is only 3 or 4 hand moves in (though 8 foot moves) but given I did throw to the top last time it is the next obvious lower point to start from other than the ground and even failing will give me the PE/AnPower training I need to help get through the final traverse on redpoint.

[mark20]

11.1-2 I recced Computer Say No buttress in the mistaken belief that Glass Slipper was there - looked dirty and unapealling.

I pulled the worst of the moss and mud off this a few months ago, was it dry when you had a look? I keep meaning to go back after a dry spell
Isla Grace in the same area, just above the road, is worth a look if you're around there. Highball 6c

[shark]

11.1-2 I recced Computer Say No buttress in the mistaken belief that Glass Slipper was there - looked dirty and unapealling.

I pulled the worst of the moss and mud off this a few months ago, was it dry when you had a look? I keep meaning to go back after a dry spell
Isla Grace in the same area, just above the road, is worth a look if you're around there. Highball 6c

Was still damp. Id leave a couple more weeks.

Isla Grace at a former E6 is probably not going to be our first choice for an evening sess ! Any other recommendations for local-to-Sheffield-evening-venues for me and the boys welcome (grade range 6C-7A+)

Priddock Wood is on the list !