[shark]

Diddy Witch buttress

The unclimbed? small overhanging buttress about 50 yards from the road just left of the approach path to Eatswood.  Good warm ups. 

Hocus Pocus 6A+
The left hand line. Start crouched with hands on rail at base of roof. Gain a slot over the lip and udge up wall on crimps to jugs. Escape left

Diddy Witch 6B
The right hand line. Start crouched with hands on rail at base of roof. Gain the obvious jug over the roof and climb the rib. Escape left. The large foot block to the right is out.

Diddy Witch Left hand 6B+
Stand start on crimps on left side of buttress feet on the slab. Drop into the slot of Hocus Pocus and move across to join Diddy Witch at the jug

Nimbus 2000 6C
Start matching the slot on Hocus Pocus with feet on the slab and dyno to gain the jug on Diddy Witch

[r-man]

Looks like a nice bit of rock. Good find.

[shark]

Looks like a nice bit of rock. Good find.

Thanks r-man,

Its only 30 or 40 feet from the path so must have walked past it 80 times. Last time I went I had a closer look and it was slightly bigger than it looked from the path so took a step ladder to brush the holds this time and was surprised how well it climbed. Wasn't expecting to get 4 problems out of it though. First new problems ever so pretty chuffed. 

[Bonjoy]

Sorry Shark, Bolehillbilly beat you to these by about a year. Some vids on his vimeo. Descriptions on UKC (I've been lazy moderating the crag so they are among the unpositioned bits at the end). Mark has a great online topo somewhere but I can't recall the address, not sure it's gone public yet.

[shark]

 




Looks like I can still lay claim to the dyno though

[Fiend]

LOG PILE?

[shark]

So looking at UKC database

Pooter = Hocus Pocus
Sweeper Net = Diddy Witch Left Hand
Minibeasts = Diddy Witch

All given 6A !!

[a dense loner]

Overlord or overgrader? You decide

[Mumra]

You couldn't write this shit lol

[bolehillbilly]

So looking at UKC database

Pooter = Hocus Pocus
Sweeper Net = Diddy Witch Left Hand
Minibeasts = Diddy Witch

All given 6A !!

I think I later changed my mind to 6a+ for Sweep Net, it felt like the hardest of the three but I didn't do anything else that day to compare to so your grades are more likely accurate than mine.  Initially I thought the rock looked suspect but it it's pretty decent apart from the one hold on Minibeasts which needs a bit of care.

The dyno looks good - i'll give it a go next visit.

Before Christmas I  re-established a path to Sublux Roof and Pen Six.  I cleaned up Sublux but it will likely need another go at the top and then there are also about 15 new problems 6a-7a up at the Pen Six  area. 
This is a very proper quality bit of rock which was really underplayed in the guide and only 5 mins from Seismic Start.

As Bonjoy mentioned I've been doing some topos for new areas locally as a resurrection of the original esoteric rock topos to Bradley, Chasecliffe and South Park.
This is a link

http://esotericboulderingcompanion.weebly.com/

It's a free site so basic, but a simple way of sharing.  If the menu doesn't display it's top left on each page.

I'll add Nimbus 2000 at some point.

Cheers
Marc