[tomtom]

I think he played a jockey or riding instructor in Hi De Hi - you know the BBC sit com based in a holiday camp starring Sue Pollard and that fat bloke. Anyway, I'm pretty sure he was a jockey - though why would you have a jockey in a holiday camp?

Anyway, back in the early 1980's, when I was a low value teenager, my parents were given some tickets (by someone my Dad knew at work) to be part of a studio audience of an episode of 'are you being served?' - another 'classic' 80's sitcom. Anyway, being 13 or 14 I was probably dragged along - but the event had some novelty having never seen anything being filmed before and whilst not really giving a shit about 'Are you being served' it was kind of interesting to see how it all worked etc... Those were heady times to be a politically aware teenager - miners strike, CND, Thatcher (and later some poll tax riots to experience) - but this program filming was on the eve of one of the largest peace demonstrations at Greenham Common (for those who need a reminder it was a US Airforce base where they decided to post some nuclear cruise missiles - and a load of women protesters camped outside the gate for a few years - barricades etc..). Bands of protesters (you can imagine) were due to descend upon the place the next day.

Well, to get a studio audience warmed up, they have a comedian come on first and tell a few gags to get everyone in the mood. It transpired that our warm up comedian was the bloke who played the jockey in Hi De Hi! He wasn't very good - but the recurring theme of his comedy 'act' was "oooh, I hope it rains at Greenham Common tomorrow". Some in the audience found it funny - but I certainly wasn't one... Being politically to the left - I hoped the protesters made their mark and stopped whatever missiles were due to be there (I think they actually made a linked arm ring around the whole base..) so this riled me...

Anyway, so what the **** has this got to do with Power Club? Well, looking at twitter and FB this week, it seems like every man, dog, child, shit in the woods sleep in their campervan in public car park types, and boulderer has been in Font - having a great time, with fantastic weather and it sounds like the pastries were in good form too.. I, of course, was not there. So in such situations my first thoughts are - bastards, I hope it bloody rains - and then I remember that stupid wanker warm up comedian who had a bit part in Hi De Hi being such a tool all those years back and realise that I am being a grumpy fucking wanker. So, I hope you all had a great time and I look forward to reading a legion of fantastic accounts of your times there.

Bah. Humbug.

So, whilst you were all away enjoying wine and Cheese...

M: Work - interviews - long day. Had a few pints in the evening...

Tu: Why do I feel hungover after 3 pints? Faff around at work all day waiting for a meeting at 4pm. I find out at 3:30 that its been cancelled....

We: A day free to go climbing \o/ A tricky forecast to call... looking at the weekend its going to rain loads, overcast, cool. I figured this might be the last chance to have a go on Blind Date for a while, so rather reluctantly decide to head up to Burbage North. I messaged Shark to see if he was interested, but he told me that he had a better offer - a trip to Malham with Mina. Typical, dumped by text, and it was his turn to wear the wig and skirt too... Anyway. Warming up was really hard, I had a strange cold finger thing happen for a while - but felt pretty poor and didnt really make much headway. Scuttled back home after a couple of hours with that 'its all mileage' adage trying to make me feel happier...

Th: Depot. OK session - more volume than intensity...

Fr: Met up with Andy_E at Blackwell.. opened an account on Read or Dead - great problem - I'm a bit short of being strong enough (well was then) to do a couple of the moves, but they all felt within range - so one for another time. Pissed about on Jerrys traverse - that again looks like it would go with some more effort.

Sa: I did something on Saturday - but can't remember....

Su: Depot Manchester - good to catch up with Paul B - bit of a Meh session - seem to now have a very stiff back that I'm a bit concerned about.

Finally - tried out some scales with a body fat analysis shizzle on them...

Visceral Fat 2% (apparently this is very good)
Other Fat 12% (I think this is the subcutaneous stuff?)

/ramble

[webbo]

At least you can climb you miserable cunt.

[a dense loner]

It doesn't sound like it webbo

[shark]

11.1-2

M. Malham. Up with Tommy, Ste and Mina after 2 days rest. Cloudy and colder than Friday. Oak properly dry for first time. 1xCons then 2x Cons. Dogging warm up go on the Oak. Attempted horn to top but failed midway on left traverse. Go 2 Overlapping thirds. Start to holding intermediate (just) before throw. Throw to starting left trav. Undercut to top. Walk round top Go 3 Overlapping thirds with bigger overlaps. Start to touching horn. Throw to falling off top trav coming into sidehold with right. Undercut to top. Go 4 Busted. Walked out  in dark.
T.
W.
T. Malham. Up with Mina and Tommy. Rob Greenwood and Penny showed. Really feeling the cold. Grizzly weather.Rainy with wind blowing in at times. F&EE with a rest to warm fingers then in a oner. Cons x 2. Didn't feel great and with Karl B also on Oak and lengthy belaying stints of Tom F on Cry Freedom meant not as free to plan my goes as usual. 3 goes on Oak. Did it once in 4 sections then twice in 3 sections, Not as good as Monday.    Tom did well TRing to top bolt on Raindogs then leading nearly as far.
F. Stanage Less Popular with the boys. Nice day. Approached via A57 for first time. Started with New York New York 6B Stand which was flashed by the boys and took me several goes. Me and Ben then did the sit 6C. Cool problem. Then sieged Monad 6C+ by bridging in and got it. Phew. Then tried Germ 6B+ and went for the shelf in the end but right foot strayed into the crack and was more sloping than expected. Moved right into the crack and failed to reverse or escape right so ended up finishing up the offwidth. Soloed Old Salt HVS..loverly..and Valediction also HVS but much stiffer
S. PM Strange Oak related dumbell exercises of my own devising. Curls, ring exercises and wide pullups
S. Easter gluttony

Good incremental weight loss this week again but may have undone all the good work today. Current tactic with Oak is to do all of it in sections each time I tie on as a form of AnCap / AeroPower work. Less good for the ego though and can only do it a three times this way at the moment. Back on Tuesday with Mina and Tommy.

PS Weighed barbell bar and was only 5kg

[T_B]

M - School lunch. Mainly 50deg. Did Total Recoil for first time since Nov/Dec.
T - School pm. 50 deg and circuit board up problems.
W - am run Limb valley. 11.2km/221m
T - Foundry lunch. A few level 3s.
F - Drive to Font. 6 hrs to Chunnel, 2hr Chunnel delay, 4 hrs to Font.
S - dropped Mrs T_B at Apremont Envers and went to Elephant with kids, got into gite then went to Envers. Did a few warm ups including the 6C+ crack. Pm quick hit to Peter Pan, had about 50 goes hitting the jug 4 times, once pretty close to holding the swing. Frustrating!
S - am Sabot kids circuit (brilliant). Pm JA Martin warmed up on some oranges then walked round to another classic 7B+ that has eluded me in the past (L'Etrave). 2 dudes trying the assis. Pull my back a bit getting going but not too bad? Got start sorted then 4th go warmed into crimp right heel on and stretch. Success!

Weather for rest of week is going to be a challenge, plus back is pretty sore this am. Wrist and index finger holding up. Have seen tons of people running, really psyched for a Trois Pignons circuit.

[Coops_13]

STG: Get a few more 7s in Slovenia
MTG: Get solid on 7B/+ boulder and 7b/+ sport
LTG: 8A & 8a

M:
T:
W:
T: weighed myself for first time in ages, 85kg heaviest I've ever been. All this rest isn't good for me
F: 0725 flight to Slovenia, got to Osp around 3ish, warmed up and tried a 7a+, nails. Ticked a weird drilled 7a which was surprisingly very good
S: Misja Pec, dogged my way up a lot of 7s... I am fat and Slovenian grades are harddddd
S: Osp, climbing fairly well, on sighted 6c+ then fell off the last move of a 35m 7a  knackered

Fingers and wrist holding up, rest day today

[csl]

STG - the next month
Regularly climb problems on the Green circuit at the Arch - done, not sure why i wrote this circuit off as too hard before. Managing a few each session, and none feel impossible.
Stick to training plan each week - total failure this week due to work pressures. Missed capacities and fingerboarding.
1 day out on rock

MTG - june
Go to Ceuse fit and strong, climb privilege.

LTG - end of year
8a

Mon
 - Hard Boulders (was meant to be) - but still knackered from Saturday and feeling tweaky. Did a bunch of slightly easier stuff.
Tue - nothing
Wed
- Hard Boulders, did monday's session today. Managed a few off the Green V6-8+ circuit and a bunch of V5-7. Tried lots of moves at my limit.
Thu
Fri
- Arch, unstructured session with my GF, did all the new problems up to the greens, and came close on 2 of them too.

Not a great week for training, have been a bit busy to manage more than a quick hour session. Hopefully get down to some proper training this week. Aim: 2x Boulders, 1x AnCap, 3x Aerocap, 1 Fingerboard + .5 AeroPow.

[nai]

Sa: I did something on Saturday - but can't remember....

Complain that you'd planned it as a rest day based on the forecast and where's the rain?

[Muenchener]

My contribution to this week's Neither At Font Nor Hanging Out At Malham With Famous Wad Babes club: Frau M is away visiting her family, so I am in school holiday single parent mode, and grinding out the PE circuits in preparation for springtime in the 'jura.

STG (April) under 80kg. This week's average 82.5, no change.
MTG (2016): Redpoint 7b
LTG (<= 5 years): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.

M: Bike one hour.
T: Beastmaker. Short maintenance max hangs session. Matched previous bests on small campus rung & shallow mid 2.
W: Wall, Thalkirchen. Mileage: ten routes to 6b+
T:
F: Wall, Boulderwelt. 40 minutes easy bouldering to warm up then PE circuits: eight rounds at ca onsight level, with as little rest in between as the traffic at the wall would allow.
S: Half hour mobility & foam rolling, mainly shoulder focused.
   Four rounds of the Nib-o-lator: bent-over rows, goblet squats, reverse crunches*, box step-ups
   ... and an extra set of tabata step-ups as a finisher-offer
S: Wall, Boulderwelt. Spot of bouldering to warm up, including doing the first three moves on a 7A but then having not the least idea what to do next, then down to work: half a dozen rounds of linked circuits e.g. 5c-6b-5c (= one round).
Bike to & from wall one hour. Completely shattered afterwards.

* a reverse crunch variation for climbers where you lift the hips and try to push the legs & feet away rather than bringing them towards you, to mimic reaching for footholds. I see teenage boulder wads from the Bavarian youth team doing these at the wall all the time, and therefore conclude that they are clearly an appropriate exercise for aging punters.

[tomtom]

Sa: I did something on Saturday - but can't remember....

Complain that you'd planned it as a rest day based on the forecast and where's the rain?

Ah. That was it

[SA Chris]

M - nothing
T - bit of core I think
W - wall session. Climbed OK, feeling a bit jaded due to being woken up by bird every morning at 5 am
T - Nothing
F - evening session on project. Nice and windy overcast and cold, possibly a bit too cold. Crimps felt really painful on first could of attempts but OK after that. Couple of OK attempts, one ending reaching for lat hold before finishing jug, but other hand popped off due to start of greasiness as darkness fell. Another couple of shots by head torch light, but was blown by then and it was getting really greasy and I had run out of chalk. In hindsight should have rested longer between attempts. What is a good rest time to aim for? Problem is 14 moves long.
S - nothing. Weather grim.
S - short walk @ easter egg hunt with kids. Some weights in evening,

[nai]

Goals - Raindogs, complete a few of my Peak WIPs, don't piss tomtom off posting pictures from font in May

M - rest

T - back to Malham, did Consenting for the first time then back on Raindogs, refined feet and committed to memory, worked a better method for the very last move. Managed a link from ground through the windmill to the thin sidepull but conditions were a bit  spoogey and hand skidded off sorting feet. Also managed from 2nd bolt through the windmill to fumbling the chain. 
Did Seventh Aardvark having failed to OS it on Sunday. Good day.

W - Cratcliffe intending to do get lots of trad mileage but it was a bit chilly in the breeze and placing gear for the first time in 9 months was time consuming so left after Suicide Wall & Five Finger Exercise.  Retreated to Stoney West which was actually still in the wind but managed to move a bit quicker.

th rest

F - Malham, feeling optimistic - straight on Raindogs for a B2B warm up, felt good.  Then had five attempts, none of which made it through the windmill and all attempts at linking 2nd to top failed too, frustrating but part of the game I guess. 

S- nowt (had planned to rest because of the forecast but turns out it would have probably been a better day than Friday) Couldn't stop eating, bit of a binge.

S - Back to the grind: AeroPow circuits & LI AeroCap. Still felt like eating all the time.

Weight an impressive 57.9kg this morning up from 55.6kg on Friday morning. 

Guess I should be pleased to have made progress on Raindogs but Friday was a little disappointing, wondering if the difference is something as simple as having had a proper dinner on Monday night rather than the veg with veg that I had on Thursday.  Can't get back til mid April now so back to training with focus very much on having a good shot at it then

[JackAus]

STG: More V8s. Consistent sub 75kg.
MTG: V9.
LTG: V11. Fear Factory List. 7/10 done.

Working nights.

M: Rest.

T: St Leonards. New stuff. Again all bar 2. Lever and light fingerboard after.

W: Rest. Worked day too.

T: Maybe St Leonards for a short session? Can't remember.

F: Rest. Easter Long Weekend so drove to Nowra.

S: DWS and Bill & Ted's. Woke up feeling not that psyched, didn't really want to fall off again, water would be freezing, almost sacked it off and went bouldering. Went anyway. Not been on it since early Jan. Set up rope, cleaned and chalked crux holds. Talked some kids into jumping off. Went around to ledge and dumped everything. Loads of boats and people to jump off by this point, I don't really feel it when there's lots going on. Traved out to the start ledge anyway, stretched abit and headed up. All set up moves felt fine but had to cut at start of crux (sometimes foot stays on, sometimes it doesn't), placed foot on and took the intermediate micro-crimp and pulled hard. Got the sloper/crimp (for the 2nd time ever!) and then came the hardest part: matching. The only other time I'd gotten this far resulted in me flipping off totally out of control without a camera going, so I was determined to not let that happen again. Managed to udge abit higher by moving left hand to micro crimp and that meant I could actually bend my right arm and slap the sloper with my left. Quick 1-2 up and right again to the good break and let out a massive fucking yell. Compose myself for the easy (but big) moves that I have never tried.... Or cleaned... Big move up to sloper and made sure I didn't slip, throw left foot up onto the ledge and rock up onto it and reached left hand to the crack/sidepull. Stood up and ran over the top with an astronomical shout of "FUCK YES!", closely followed by huge cheers from the crowds in the boats and on top. Sat on rock on top and slowly got my breath back and realization of what I'd just done. 3 years of attempts, around 200 attempts all ground up. Kind of got to me abit and a few tears came. 
Had to trav back to start ledge to get my chalkbag! Haha. While packing up, a lady from a boat yelled out to me that she had photos and if I was on facebook. Later that night she messaged me with a couple photos and a fucken video of the top half! Which is awesome because I didn't have it on video! Will be putting together a boring video of many falls over the years soon enough...
Rest of the day: Stopped by Flat Rock to meet up with a Canberra crew while they sampled the area (well received) and then we headed to another undeveloped area that I found 3 years ago, Bill & Ted's. They set about developing some warm up lines while I jumped onto a easy but big prob with a scary top out. Backed off the top out twice (top over a rather pointy boulder) before getting a spot and more pads then did it easily. Found plenty of new things out there, will have to head back soon.

S: Lot 33. Did a bunch of things I haven't done in ages and finished of some fun easy things I'd never gotten around to doing. 3, 4, 6, 2x 7s. New high point on a crimpy af 11 aswell. Very pleased with that but very sharp LH crimp starting to slice my index finger open.


Only the 2nd time I'd ever gotten to the break/sloper/crimp.... This was the move that caused so many splashdowns.

[petejh]

STG: first 8b+ (Mecca), by mid June
MTG: undecided
LTG: 8c, by June 2018

Bouldering phase.

M. Flu, felt like I was going to die.
T. Flu. Enough energy in afternoon to attempt driving to airport to fly to Belfast. A55 shut by chemical spill, airports in security alert due to sky-fairies attacks. Missed flight, turned round. Tried again a few hours later by going country lanes across the hills, carnage, just made it. Spent lots on parking and ticket change.
W. Tired from flu, lots of soup.
T. Flew back.
F. Mill in p.m. On the best day outside this year found myself indoors all day doing life admin. Decent lantern sesh in Mill (what do subs pay for? Not electricity!), did first of two short-term board projs.
S.
S. Cave. Based on last session on RA I should have been rinsing it today. In reality turned out to be a poor sesh, felt underpowered and a loose core. Didn't even match previous sesh.


Worst flu I've had in years, could actually imagine how the old/vulnerable die of that shit.

[Nibile]

Power Club
STG - board projects if temps are fine; one project on rock.

Mon - board climbing, one foot bouldering +8 kg. Shorter rests than usual, but quite strong even after many weeks without trying it.
Tue - rest.
Wed - board climbing. Very good goes on the project, which is quite hard. Snatch recruitment and a snatch/broad jumps Litvinov finisher. Physically and mentally strong.
Thu - climbing class. Set a few problems, tiring. Should have been a rest day.
Fri - rock climbing in Varazze. Humid and glassy. Terrible.
Sat - rock climbing in Varazze. Better connies but hot. Had lots of fun though. Tried an 8b+ from Mr. Core and much to my surprise didn't do it. Then tried a 7b+ and did it. Climbed too much. Knackered.
Sun - rest.

[fried]

Glad everyone got some stuff done in Font.

M - Rest
T - Slept terribly, but had a cancelled appointment on the south side of Paris, so went to Bois Rond. Tried some reds, but I wasn't getting anywhere, especially on meilleur des mondes where I kept forgetting what I was supposed to be doing when I got up on the pedistal. Gave up and repeated some blues and oranges which was great fun and what I should've been doing in the first place.

W- Nothing
Th - Should have climbed indoors, but having a tiring week.
F- Nothing
Sa - Wet weather option, went to Apremont where I never fail to climb badly and usually end up lost. The first couple of problems on the red circuit were full, so I kept moving. Supprisingly there was noone on les yeux https://bleau.info/apremont/1468.html, so I jumped on it without a warm up. Lovely problem and I got it after a long siege, nice to do it since it's a classic and the first time I've gone out and done a problem that I intended too.

Moved onto Dallactite https://bleau.info/apremont/24011.html with some Aussies and got that too after another siege. Tried another slab, but no luck. Since it seemed to be a day of slabs I decided to go and have a go at Science Friction which was also surprisingly free, didn't get it , but got up to the top crimp before my finger and toes coudn't take anymore. Excellent day out.

Su - Birthday party, which as usual ends up as a  crap French music karaoke.

[the_dom]

Mon: Hangover. Rest day
Tues: Deadlifts at lunch. Evening bouldering and deadhangs
Wednesday: Bouldering
Thursday: More lunchtime deadlifts. Evening trail run
Friday: Bouldering at Echo Valley in the Topside in Cape Town. Reopened my accounts on Mintberry Crunch (8A) and Cthulu (7C+). Neither felt beyond the realms of possibility. Did some stuff in the low 7s. Tried the hardest 7B+ in the world. Decent day out. Closed it out with some one arm dead hangs.
Saturday: Bouldering (indoors)
Sunday: Weighted hangs, followed by light deadlifts and heavyish TGUs and KB swings

Solid week. Enjoying the hard work.

[Muenchener]

Science Friction ... crimp

   

I don't remember there being any. It was a long time ago though.

[fried]

It's probably been chipped since you were last on it

40 secs in.

[ashtond6]

Stg - os 7a tick!

M - shoulder bloody sore
T - fly to siurana with flu
W - flu day in siurana 
T - did a 7a second go, then onsighted another 7a,  also nice 6a+ and 6b+
F - still a bit ill, fell off last move trying to onsight a steep 7a finger crack at la mussara
S - tried 7b+, seemed steady but didn't really like the clips
S - did a nice 6b+ then dropped crosta panic 7a+ onsight 1 hand movement from the chains, scared not pumped      finished off with a nice 6c crack onsight

[Luke Owens]

M: Lunch - Cycling - 5.7km - 20mins

T: Lunch - Cycling - 3km - 10mins

W: Lunch - Stretching

Eve: Cave - Left Wall - Session 11 - Did some big links warming up and felt good, worked on the move I keep falling on, got a more secure method.

First go from the start I got to a new high point with one had on the flake and my right foot just randomly slipped off, couldn't believe it. Furthest I've got and I didn't fall off because I was powered out... For anyone who knows left wall this is a real punt and after all the hard climbing...

2nd and 3rd go, tape on tips was rolling off, falling off the start and I had put myself in a real bad frame of mind after falling off when I think I should of done it on my first go.

Sat in the car and chilled out, felt better and had about 4 more goes getting to the cross through move but just too tired.

Did it from the move on my high point to the end of the trav 3 times in a row at the end of the session when I was knackered, felt good to be able to do this.

T: Lunch - 5 x 10 Dorsal Raises
3 x 20 sec L-Hangs
3 x 10 Knee tucks

10 min cycle - 3km

F: Rest

S: Rest

S: Weight 11.0 st - Cave - Warm up felt a little strange kept falling off some easy moves, chilled out for 15 minutes and went for a full attempt from the back on Left Wall, felt smooth on the start got to the move I fell off on on Thursday, fingers had numbed out but I was finally at the kneebar rest. Felt pretty relaxed there but struggled to leave the rest... I knew so many people drop the end section and tried to block that out, I knew if I felt OK on the little matching ledge before the bigger holds I'd do it, all of a sudden I was on the ledge and felt OK, I then had a moment of panic when I went for the big right hand sidepull and got it slightly wrong, started shaking a bit but stuck the jugs, what a great feeling pulling around the corner on the final finishing moves after trying something for 13 sessions...!

A big tick for me and first of the grade, really psyched to get it done. My biggest siege so far and worth it in the end. I went from not being able to link more than a few moves on it back in January to doing the full thing. Being a little more specific with the training, persistence, some weight loss and extra rest towards the end paid off. My 2nd child is likely to be hear any time now, a nice feeling to finish it off before then. My partner has been amazing, traveling up to the cave with me consistently for night sessions, heavily pregnant but really supportive of me to achieve my goal.

Here's a short video about the problem, it features my partner, my son and a dirty Ormesman...

[pete]

 Well done Luke and a nice video spoilt only by the presence of the odd looking characters that hang out in that cave.

[lagerstarfish]

it seems like every man, dog, child, shit in the woods sleep in their campervan in public car park types, and boulderer has been in Font - having a great time, with fantastic weather and it sounds like the pastries were in good form too..

I'm still there 

it's a beautiful morning

has anyone mentioned the fact that the big Carrefour now has a sushi counter?

[a dense loner]

They can fuckin keep it

[tomtom]

it seems like every man, dog, child, shit in the woods sleep in their campervan in public car park types, and boulderer has been in Font - having a great time, with fantastic weather and it sounds like the pastries were in good form too..

I'm still there 

it's a beautiful morning

has anyone mentioned the fact that the big Carrefour now has a sushi counter?

Glad you're still there. Means I don't have to tell the family I moved into your new house to shove off yet

[tomtom]

Well done Luke.

[nai]

Effort Luke, training paid off, glad it all came together for you.

Nicely done, Jack. That looks terrifying, does the ledge not come into play? 

[tommytwotone]

STG: something decent in Font 7th-11th Apr - would like to do "De Fil En Aiguille"
LTG: Font 7anything


M: Gym on lunch. Row warmup, shoulder complexes and swissball rollouts for core.
T: Nowt.
W: Nowt.
T: Depot evening - pottered on the new V5-V7 purples and got a couple done. Rest were tough but good - very technical.
F: Persuaded Fiona to come to Almscliff for a bit of fresh air and a walk while I did a few things. Not great trip - lots of knobs there inc. idiots with music on Bluetooth speakers, groups of braying poshos and to top it off the farmer was spreading slurry all over the field you walk through to get to the crag. We left after about an hour and I did about 4 climbs, and slipped off the final move of the Crucifix downclimb which was a bit of a shock, no damage done though, landed on my feet.
S: Ouch. Woke up with a really sore back.
S. More back soreness.
M: Back a bit better.


Pretty worried about the state of my back with only 8 days to go to Font. At the moment being able to bend down to put my shoes on will be a good goal!

[SA Chris]

Did you jar it when you landed? If so get to a physio ASAP.

[tomtom]

Ice where it hurts on the back - and be careful how you sit and sleep...

[tommytwotone]

Did you jar it when you landed? If so get to a physio ASAP.

Yeah, that's all I can think it would be. Only just slipped off the really polished ledge about 6 inches off the ground though, guess I might have jarred it.


I'm assuming spending a few nights on sofa (to address household sleeping issues, not my bad behaviour I should add!) probably hasn't helped matters either. Stretching, ice and NSAIDs all being deployed!

[JackAus]

Nicely done, Jack. That looks terrifying, does the ledge not come into play?

Cheers. It feels like it to start with but not at all. You traverse off it and then when you get into the roof, you head further left again. End up falling a good 4-5m away from it on the crux.

[Falling Down]

Not a great deal last week. 

Wed - Westway with Sean K.  Warmed up with 20 easy problems pretty much back to back which felt good.  Leading wall: After the first we route we moved to the featured wall where  I really smacked my barefoot on a feature when catching a fall.  Very very painful.  Tried to do another couple of routes but couldn't weight my right toes so buggered off home to ice it and have some 'profen.  Just badly bruised with a black big toe nail.  It's settled down now I think so going to head back this afternoon.  Will do some fingerboard if it's still sore.

Off to my folks in Cilcain tomorrow until Saturday so hope to get down to the gorge if it's dry (I'm guessing the cave area is still fenced off) and perhaps to Helsby.  TomTom?

[tomtom]

Off to my folks in Cilcain tomorrow until Saturday so hope to get down to the gorge if it's dry (I'm guessing the cave area is still fenced off) and perhaps to Helsby.  TomTom?

Sure - I'm west side all week.. Free most of the time except Friday morning. Tweaky back at the moment so having today off, but back on it Weds onwards. Text/twit me etc..

[petejh]

Effort Luke! I'd have a word with that chap in your vid to educate him about cave camera etiquette..

[rodma]

Mon: campussy wall session, really, realy close to 137 leading with my right which would be nice.
Tue: stretchy stretchy
Wed: Another campussy wall session. still a bit busted from Monday
Thurs: rest
Fri: a rare day out with mrs rodma since granny was looking after the wee guy, we got out climbing. shame the weather crapped out.
Sat: wall session. just do mileage and stretching since am feeling increasingly tweaky
Sun: look after the wee guy so mrs rodma can go to the woods

a good if tweaky feeling week

well done to Luke and Jack, and nice thread opener tomtom

[filz]

Jack, Luke well done!!

STG: Train for peak at the end of april. Train slopers. Loose a couple of kg recently taken.
MTG: Consolidate 7a
LTG: 7c

Mon:
tired from the weekend. Some bodyweight during lunch break: push ups, L-sits, handstands, tuck planche
evening: ring dips, weighted pull ups, some light weights: clean and press, deadlift, farmer's walk, bridges

Tue: Still tired. PE session on my board

Wed: fb repeaters

Thu: rest

Fri: weights: clean and press, deadlifts. Bridges

Sat: rope climbing. Warm up with some easy routes, then onsighted a 6c+, my new best performance on rope

Sun: bouldering. Did some warm up, then moved to the projects I wanted to try for the day, but it was too late. Rock was already too damp. Managed to try a few moves on a 7c, but I have to understand were it starts.

[SA Chris]

Anyway, I'm pretty sure he was a jockey - though why would you have a jockey in a holiday camp?

Maybe a knobjockey? Seem to remember a few on that.

[Luke Owens]

Effort Luke! I'd have a word with that chap in your vid to educate him about cave camera etiquette..

Ironically, the same fella had the cheek to use my tripod later on...

No idea who he is, I think he works for Rockfax...

[a dense loner]

Damnit Habrich you can't go around crossing out your goals then saying later you've decided against them. I thought you'd done it! Caught myself muttering good effort, only to be thwarted

[Mumra]

Mon: campussy wall session, really, realy close to 137 leading with my right which would be nice

Is this some kind of typo? 1-3-7?

[andy_e]

He has a really short right arm.

[tomtom]

Asymmetric training innit. Bleeding edge methods...

[webbo]

Mon. Physio. Turbo 30 minutes.
Tue. Nothing
Wed. Physio.Nothing else due to left elbow locking up. I'm not sure if it's golfers or related to when I broke it.
Thu. Turbo 35 mins.
Fri. Physio. Weights followed by dead hangs.7 different grips 3 sets per grip 5 secs with 18.75 lbs added. Finished of with 5 sets of repeaters 5 secs on 5 secs off X 5 again with 18.75 lbs added. Turbo 40 mins.
Sat . Nothing.
Sun. Physio exs. Turbo 50 mins. Walked for 45 mins.
Achilles keeps improving and walking is almost back to normal. Started doing wrist curls for my elbow.

[rodma]

Mon: campussy wall session, really, realy close to 137 leading with my right which would be nice

Is this some kind of typo? 1-3-7?

Haha

Not a typo, but a step forward progresswise

Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk

[tomtom]

Glad the Achilles is getting there Webbo. I see you're back on the turbo - so does it stop you getting on the bike?

[Hugh]

Good work Luke and Jack

STG: 7B.
MTG: Don't get broken. Get strong for Santa Gadea in June.

Not much going on this week...

Mon - Fri: Rest and being ill
Sat: TCA: Gentle pootling to get back into the swing of things
Sun: Fingerboard. Experimenting with 70% of 1 rep max (16mm edge, +11kg), 5 hangs of 7s, 8s rest. More research required as this is isn't based on much solid evidence.

[webbo]

Glad the Achilles is getting there Webbo. I see you're back on the turbo - so does it stop you getting on the bike?

The deal from the Physio is if it's more than 3 on a 1 to 10 pain scale you stop. So if I go for a ride and it gets painful I can't get home.
I don't think ringing the missus to come and get me if it happened would go down too well, given she's had to do everything for apart from wiping my arse for last 2 months.
So I will give it a bit longer, also I'm only 9 weeks post op tomorrow and some rehab protocols are only getting you walking in normal shoes weeks 8 to 12

[abarro81]

I wouldn't worry too much about 1 arming that BM edge, I can't hang it properly unless I nestle in the corner in a cheaty way.

[shurt]

During the given dates I was involved in no climbing related activity.

I'm not quite sure of the reason for this post apart from to generate incredibly mild amusement at my expense.

Fill your boots.

[a dense loner]

Oh

[cheque]

Good Powerclub this one. Effort Luke & Jack.

STG- Move to Sheffield 2012 goal ticked. 
MTG- Make seaside film without getting crap at climbing/ dying/ suffering nervous breakdown
LTG- 8a

No climbing or training again last week- just moving then a couple of nice walks at the weekend after the dust had settled.

[SA Chris]

MTG- Make seaside film without getting crap at climbing/ dying/ suffering nervous breakdown

What, like Quadrophenia, or Summer Holiday or something?