[tomtom]

Well done Luke.

[nai]

Effort Luke, training paid off, glad it all came together for you.

Nicely done, Jack. That looks terrifying, does the ledge not come into play? 

[tommytwotone]

STG: something decent in Font 7th-11th Apr - would like to do "De Fil En Aiguille"
LTG: Font 7anything


M: Gym on lunch. Row warmup, shoulder complexes and swissball rollouts for core.
T: Nowt.
W: Nowt.
T: Depot evening - pottered on the new V5-V7 purples and got a couple done. Rest were tough but good - very technical.
F: Persuaded Fiona to come to Almscliff for a bit of fresh air and a walk while I did a few things. Not great trip - lots of knobs there inc. idiots with music on Bluetooth speakers, groups of braying poshos and to top it off the farmer was spreading slurry all over the field you walk through to get to the crag. We left after about an hour and I did about 4 climbs, and slipped off the final move of the Crucifix downclimb which was a bit of a shock, no damage done though, landed on my feet.
S: Ouch. Woke up with a really sore back.
S. More back soreness.
M: Back a bit better.


Pretty worried about the state of my back with only 8 days to go to Font. At the moment being able to bend down to put my shoes on will be a good goal!

[SA Chris]

Did you jar it when you landed? If so get to a physio ASAP.

[tomtom]

Ice where it hurts on the back - and be careful how you sit and sleep...

[tommytwotone]

Did you jar it when you landed? If so get to a physio ASAP.

Yeah, that's all I can think it would be. Only just slipped off the really polished ledge about 6 inches off the ground though, guess I might have jarred it.


I'm assuming spending a few nights on sofa (to address household sleeping issues, not my bad behaviour I should add!) probably hasn't helped matters either. Stretching, ice and NSAIDs all being deployed!

[JackAus]

Nicely done, Jack. That looks terrifying, does the ledge not come into play?

Cheers. It feels like it to start with but not at all. You traverse off it and then when you get into the roof, you head further left again. End up falling a good 4-5m away from it on the crux.

[Falling Down]

Not a great deal last week. 

Wed - Westway with Sean K.  Warmed up with 20 easy problems pretty much back to back which felt good.  Leading wall: After the first we route we moved to the featured wall where  I really smacked my barefoot on a feature when catching a fall.  Very very painful.  Tried to do another couple of routes but couldn't weight my right toes so buggered off home to ice it and have some 'profen.  Just badly bruised with a black big toe nail.  It's settled down now I think so going to head back this afternoon.  Will do some fingerboard if it's still sore.

Off to my folks in Cilcain tomorrow until Saturday so hope to get down to the gorge if it's dry (I'm guessing the cave area is still fenced off) and perhaps to Helsby.  TomTom?

[tomtom]

Off to my folks in Cilcain tomorrow until Saturday so hope to get down to the gorge if it's dry (I'm guessing the cave area is still fenced off) and perhaps to Helsby.  TomTom?

Sure - I'm west side all week.. Free most of the time except Friday morning. Tweaky back at the moment so having today off, but back on it Weds onwards. Text/twit me etc..

[petejh]

Effort Luke! I'd have a word with that chap in your vid to educate him about cave camera etiquette..

[rodma]

Mon: campussy wall session, really, realy close to 137 leading with my right which would be nice.
Tue: stretchy stretchy
Wed: Another campussy wall session. still a bit busted from Monday
Thurs: rest
Fri: a rare day out with mrs rodma since granny was looking after the wee guy, we got out climbing. shame the weather crapped out.
Sat: wall session. just do mileage and stretching since am feeling increasingly tweaky
Sun: look after the wee guy so mrs rodma can go to the woods

a good if tweaky feeling week

well done to Luke and Jack, and nice thread opener tomtom

[filz]

Jack, Luke well done!!

STG: Train for peak at the end of april. Train slopers. Loose a couple of kg recently taken.
MTG: Consolidate 7a
LTG: 7c

Mon:
tired from the weekend. Some bodyweight during lunch break: push ups, L-sits, handstands, tuck planche
evening: ring dips, weighted pull ups, some light weights: clean and press, deadlift, farmer's walk, bridges

Tue: Still tired. PE session on my board

Wed: fb repeaters

Thu: rest

Fri: weights: clean and press, deadlifts. Bridges

Sat: rope climbing. Warm up with some easy routes, then onsighted a 6c+, my new best performance on rope

Sun: bouldering. Did some warm up, then moved to the projects I wanted to try for the day, but it was too late. Rock was already too damp. Managed to try a few moves on a 7c, but I have to understand were it starts.

[SA Chris]

Anyway, I'm pretty sure he was a jockey - though why would you have a jockey in a holiday camp?

Maybe a knobjockey? Seem to remember a few on that.

[Luke Owens]

Effort Luke! I'd have a word with that chap in your vid to educate him about cave camera etiquette..

Ironically, the same fella had the cheek to use my tripod later on...

No idea who he is, I think he works for Rockfax...

[a dense loner]

Damnit Habrich you can't go around crossing out your goals then saying later you've decided against them. I thought you'd done it! Caught myself muttering good effort, only to be thwarted

[Mumra]

Mon: campussy wall session, really, realy close to 137 leading with my right which would be nice

Is this some kind of typo? 1-3-7?

[andy_e]

He has a really short right arm.

[tomtom]

Asymmetric training innit. Bleeding edge methods...

[webbo]

Mon. Physio. Turbo 30 minutes.
Tue. Nothing
Wed. Physio.Nothing else due to left elbow locking up. I'm not sure if it's golfers or related to when I broke it.
Thu. Turbo 35 mins.
Fri. Physio. Weights followed by dead hangs.7 different grips 3 sets per grip 5 secs with 18.75 lbs added. Finished of with 5 sets of repeaters 5 secs on 5 secs off X 5 again with 18.75 lbs added. Turbo 40 mins.
Sat . Nothing.
Sun. Physio exs. Turbo 50 mins. Walked for 45 mins.
Achilles keeps improving and walking is almost back to normal. Started doing wrist curls for my elbow.

[rodma]

Mon: campussy wall session, really, realy close to 137 leading with my right which would be nice

Is this some kind of typo? 1-3-7?

Haha

Not a typo, but a step forward progresswise

Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk

[tomtom]

Glad the Achilles is getting there Webbo. I see you're back on the turbo - so does it stop you getting on the bike?

[Hugh]

Good work Luke and Jack

STG: 7B.
MTG: Don't get broken. Get strong for Santa Gadea in June.

Not much going on this week...

Mon - Fri: Rest and being ill
Sat: TCA: Gentle pootling to get back into the swing of things
Sun: Fingerboard. Experimenting with 70% of 1 rep max (16mm edge, +11kg), 5 hangs of 7s, 8s rest. More research required as this is isn't based on much solid evidence.

[webbo]

Glad the Achilles is getting there Webbo. I see you're back on the turbo - so does it stop you getting on the bike?

The deal from the Physio is if it's more than 3 on a 1 to 10 pain scale you stop. So if I go for a ride and it gets painful I can't get home.
I don't think ringing the missus to come and get me if it happened would go down too well, given she's had to do everything for apart from wiping my arse for last 2 months.
So I will give it a bit longer, also I'm only 9 weeks post op tomorrow and some rehab protocols are only getting you walking in normal shoes weeks 8 to 12

[abarro81]

I wouldn't worry too much about 1 arming that BM edge, I can't hang it properly unless I nestle in the corner in a cheaty way.

[shurt]

During the given dates I was involved in no climbing related activity.

I'm not quite sure of the reason for this post apart from to generate incredibly mild amusement at my expense.

Fill your boots.