[Dave Flanagan]

Is there such a thing?
I know there are some novelty trick moves, like 3rd gen dynos and fig fours, but in general is it not the case that hard moves are the same as easy moves but just, well harder? Small holds, steeper, further apart, and thus requiring more power, precision, timing, accurate body position etc but fundamentally the movement is the same.
Or is it that there is just not link between the difficultly of the move and the standard of technique required for it?

[Will Hunt]

http://twitter.com/ClimbingRumours/status/685902028602798082

[fatneck]

For me a lot of being "advanced" comes down to tactics! Choosing the right problems to invest time in, resting adequately, conditions etc. All the knowledge that you gain over time should in theory lead to "better" performance. Does advanced just equal better prepared and able to deal with the often tiny nuances that make the difference between success and failure?

[36chambers]

+1

The only advanced technique I know is waiting for the sun to dip behind a cloud.

[tomtom]

For me, technique has increased with experience - and with grade and range of problems tried.

Its never ever been a case of 'you've got your technique - get stronger' - both have grown together... I'm always learning new tricks and body positions to avoid having to get stronger

Oh yeah - nearly forgot. Advanced technique tip #3: Don't be short :p

[SA Chris]

Things like compression / clamp moves, toe hooks and "bicycle" feet must surely be regarded as advanced?

[Muenchener]

Handjams seem to stop some boulderers dead in their tracks.

[cha1n]

Use of ladders.

[lagerstarfish]

avoiding injury

and when that fails, coping with injuries

[slackline]

Eliciting sequence information from others (aka beta-vampire).

[36chambers]

Having multiple beta videos saved on your phone...

[36chambers]

In fact, having a slight hangover can be remarkably conducive to sending climbing something sending.

(Edit: Christ Dense, you don't half make things awkward)

[Paul B]

Micro Beta
Multiple Shoes (not necessarily in pairs!)
Various techniques for generating momentum (see the Dobbin Ninja Leg^TM)
Advanced dieting (carrots only)

I'm not sure there's a book in this if that's what you're thinking!

[36chambers]

The ballerina heel.

[Schnell]

There might be a good book in advanced bouldering tactics though. Most of the above plus skin maintenance, video analysis, loads of stuff on conditions..

[SA Chris]

I'm not sure there's a book in this if that's what you're thinking!

No, but quite a few articles online.

[rodma]

i can only think of things that relate to chuffing too, like the one footed egyptian and the toehook variant of the same

[Dave Flanagan]

I'm not sure there's a book in this if that's what you're thinking!

No I don't think there is either.

[Dave Flanagan]

Would all the techniques mentioned not be considered intermediate rather than advanced?

[SA Chris]

Depends how advanced you are?

[slackline]

If there is nothing considered advanced then what are they intermediate to? 

[Eddies]

The French blow 

[Will Hunt]

The ballerina heel.

This is a really interesting comment. Regardless of the difference between the ballerina heel and the punter heel, I really think there is a lot of TUHU (Totally Unecessary Heel Usage) flying around. Like, you'll see someone put their heel on when you're thinking surely a toe would be better (most commonly seen on rock overs onto smears/lips where the foot is far away from you. Obviously if the hold is close by the heel can be advantageous by bringing your weight directly over the hold so you can "sit" on it, but for rockovers off to the side the toe normally provides greater accuracy, dexterity and leverage. See heel use on Blind Date, Beast of the Field etc). I mean, if it work's for you then fine, but for many people the heel is always the "go-to" default.

I've speculated that TUHU is mostly the product of heel use being associated with hard problems and hard climbing. People think "I'm on a hard problem here, I'd best use my heel as that's what you do on hard problems". Has anybody else observed this?


Back onto Advanced Techniques - I was about to suggest a Ninja Kick as something I'd only seen used on Cypher, but then I remembered having to do one on a 6C+!

[benno]

Yes, very commonly observed in London walls. <snobbery>Usually from people with a brand new pair of Solutions on, falling off a V1</snobbery>

[r-man]

I've speculated that TUHU is mostly the product of heel use being associated with hard problems and hard climbing. People think "I'm on a hard problem here, I'd best use my heel as that's what you do on hard problems". Has anybody else observed this?

Yes, but also because heels are easier to whack in place, even though they might not be that useful. It's mostly beginners who do this?

Back onto Advanced Techniques - I was about to suggest a Ninja Kick as something I'd only seen used on Cypher, but then I remembered having to do one on a 6C+!

Always known this as the Moon Kick, for obvious reasons.