[SA Chris]

If we're looking in Andy's vids for evidence then I present this:

Andy is probably the mot heelyist climber I've ever seen though. For better or worst.

[Dave Flanagan]

If there is nothing considered advanced then what are they intermediate to? 

Well you have got me there!

[SA Chris]

There's a (moderately) interesting bit in here where he talks about types of moves, although some might say it's stating the fucking obvious / waffle (depending on your outlook).

http://stonecountry.blogspot.co.uk/2013/04/the-boulder-philosophy-of-bouldering-by.html

I've managed to read the whole thing if anyone wants a look at it. Some interesting stuff, but I won't be rereading it.

[Duma]

I got that too and enjoyed it.

[SA Chris]

It's actually got some interesting concepts, but a good editor could have trimmed a few superfluous paragraphs from each chapter. And maybe a chapter or two.

[Fultonius]

Nobody seems to have mentioned the heel-toe cam yet. Certainly one I was "taught"...if memory serves on the bendecrete wall at the Glasgow climbing wall!  Not often useful, but can make a mockery of a grade when it's not been spotted.

[marcpontin]

Am a little bit unsure of posting this on an 'advanced technique thread' but wanted to share an insight into my own bouldering that has been transformational to my ability to do hard dynamic moves. It concerns the minutae of the psychological component of bouldering. First a definition that I have developed. I define a 'dynamic' problem as one where at some point in the execution of the move where (typically) both hands and feet are in contact and pulling there comes a moment that marks 'the point of no return' after which the only possible outcome is falling or latching the next hold and there is no possibility of aborting the move and returning to the starting position. (a 'static' move in contrast can be aborted at any point in the move).

I have come to realise that what happens in the split second after this 'point of no return' is utterly crucial. What generally happens to me is this: The uncertainty of not knowing whats going to happen induces extreme discomfort (fear!). The mind automatically wants to resolve this uncertainty (technically known as the defense mechanism 'splitting' for any therapists out there). Resolution is sought in two ways both of which ruin the chance of success!
1.  The lead hand stops pulling and snatches for the next hold
2.  The lower body loses tension in preparation to land safely.

Of course what is required is that both hands need to keep pulling and tension maintained deep into this 'zone of uncertainty' with the hand flicking to the hold at the absolute last moment whilst maintaining tension. I have been utterly shocked how much my ability to do dynamic moves improve when I override these instincts and hold off snatching for the next hold until the last moment. I believe this psychological aspect of bouldering is little understood. Probably because it happens in a fraction of a second. I have been vipassana meditating for over ten years which mainly involves training in the speed and precision of observing mental and physical sensations arising and passing away. With a bit of practice it is quite straightforward to observe 10-15 individual sensations per second so plenty of time for the above! Also its not particularly manly to admit to being scared 6" off the mat!! It seems that the sub-conscious mind doesn't care about objective danger in the slightest. There are lots of implications from this but I would be interested if there's any resonance with anyone.

[lagerstarfish]

If I was able to observe so many different physical sensations every second, I'd be terrified of all the bad things that can be felt falling off from even a low height

but yeah, I recognize that thing about keeping putting in effort after the dead point move

[cjsheps]

I reckon one advanced technique must be knowing how and when to kill a swing when cutting loose: pushing from the lower hand, catching scrums with feet etc.

[tomtom]

Isn't every advanced technique advanced until you can do it?

[Muenchener]

I reckon one advanced technique must be knowing how and when to kill a swing when cutting loose: pushing from the lower hand, catching scrums with feet etc.

In a similar vein, I have a dyno project in the Frankenjura where the target hold is big but flat, and a bit of deliberate swing/kick out backwards with the free foot helps to stabilise the catch. I felt pretty advanced when I figured that out.

[Dave Flanagan]

First a definition that I have developed. I define a 'dynamic' problem as one where at some point in the execution of the move where (typically) both hands and feet are in contact and pulling there comes a moment that marks 'the point of no return' after which the only possible outcome is falling or latching the next hold and there is no possibility of aborting the move and returning to the starting position. (a 'static' move in contrast can be aborted at any point in the move).

This is my definition of a dynamic move is one in which the centre of gravity and the hand (or I suppose possibly the foot) are moving at the same time.

[Muenchener]

Good definition, but surely there's a difference between moving with a bit of momentum because it's more efficient than moving statically, and a full-on throw for something you couldn't reach statically?

[Duma]

How about matching at the peak of the swing after cutting loose?

[iwasmexican]

How about matching at the peak of the swing after cutting loose?

case and point this:

[Denbob99]

I think getting compression for your legs as well as your arms is a bit more advanced, especially by just using toe/knee scums

[Andy W]

About as advanced as you can get 

Pat Ament, in Master of Rock, says about John Gill in a section called ‘Telekinesis and Levitation’:

'He found in bouldering sharp clear reality, and on occasion a feeling that – with the right consciousness – he weighed a little bit less. The right mental attitude might inspire ‘a slight sensation of telekinesis’ or in fact minutely perceivable levitation. It was easy to listen to such concepts, as they flowed subtly and with somewhat of a sense of humour from Gill. After all, he did at times seem to defy gravity'

[Dave Flanagan]

Good definition, but surely there's a difference between moving with a bit of momentum because it's more efficient than moving statically, and a full-on throw for something you couldn't reach statically?

Yes there is. Opposite ends of the dynamic spectrum I suppose.

[Yoof]

I think you can get pretty 'advanced' with footwork- not in a toehook/heelhook everything in sight way (which I just about do, and which often makes rooves piss), but more in the way you place your foot.

The example which jumps to mind is on the local board using a really shitty sloping wooden foothold. I place my foot on the best part of this hold (the corner) and try to milk it by pressing as hard as I can with my toes down to the ball of my foot. My mate on the other hand places the toes/ball of his foot flat on the shit part of the hold (at a weird angle) maximising rubber contact with the wood and still does the move fine. I can't do it his way (though I would love to be able to), not sure if he can do it my way. I think 'advanced' technique when it comes to placing toes is really about understanding your own body and it's strengths and weaknesses, and knowing how best to move your body with the holds you've got, and then placing your foot appropriately. Got to say I find the different ways people use the same holds so differently pretty fascinating.

Equally really learning to pull the right amount with all of your limbs on all of the different holds you have seems to get you up some pretty hard feeling stuff.