[csl]

STG
Rehab Finger

MTG
Siurana - a few 7's without ruining finger further. < going to have to adjust this even more: Be able to climb in Siurana

LTG
8a

Somehow since last week, my finger tweak has gone downhill enough that holding jugs, or even a bar causes pain. NNFN.

Thursday
Easy session on the V0-1 circuit at arch, noticeable pain in finger even on jugs.

Sunday

Taped the finger to my pinky to keep it out of the way, and climbed on my front two. Managed boulders up to the Yellow V2-4 circuit. Also did some max hangs on my uninjured hand.

Next week - ice twice daily, 2 v. easy low volume sessions, start to weight finger a little more.

[a dense loner]

How is your pain when not holding jugs csl, as in holding smaller holds and not just a coffee cup handle? Sounds bizarre but I find bigger holds aggravate the area more when I've had finger injuries

[Muenchener]

+1

If the problem is an A2 pulley, then big holds or pull up bars can press directly on it: probably not a good idea.

[Sasquatch]

STG - Prep new routes for upcoming season, continue training, 2 local boulder projects that may be winter doable - The Loony project(8a? stand, and 8b/+? sit) and the Rutted Project(8a+?ish)
MTG - 1 arm pull-up, 1-arm hang BM2K middle lower slot, Spotted Dick Project
LTG - To Bolt...

M - Campus/1 arm/Sloper work -  1-4-7, 8 of 8 times, plus 30 min cardio
T - 90 minute skate ski
W - Rest
T - Max Hangs and Moonboard -  Good MAW Session-5x254#, Decent moonboard session - sent three session project and it felt easy, as they often do.  Did 3 7B+ of the classic sandbagged problems.
F - 40 min bike, plus 80 pullups, 60 ring Pushups, 60 ring flys, 60 ring I's, and 40 ATB's
S -  Backcountry ski - 4 hrs, and soccer 1hr
S - So tired today, but still a good session - MAW-3x256#/1 arm PU 3x4x(-43#)/weights-DL, Dips, core

Busy week with work, but still got some really good training done.  Looking forward to the focus on pulling strength. It feels like it's already starting to pay off. 

[Falling Down]

Sorry hear about your finger CSL.

I've had a cold virus most of the week that left me feeling wiped out until yesterday.

M-F nowt other than the odd walk
S - Pressups and some light weights.
S - Bouldering at The Westway.  Great short session.  Feeling light(ear) and have some "snap" back in my body.  Flashed two whites and ticked two more.  I couldn't touch this grade just a few weeks back.

[cha1n]

Conor, I'd stick to 3 finger drags with pulley injuries, you'll be surprised just how hard you can climb with that grip if you're disciplined. I remember thinking that jugs were the answer on my first round of finger injuries but soon realised it was making them worse as you're usually bent at the PIP and even worse, the jug usually presses into the pulley!

Oh and in my experience (looking at years of patterns as I log all my injuries), the other hand usually isn't too far off of injury when I injure one. Usually a sign of overuse, unless it was a properly random event which caused the injury. How strong are you open on a 3-finger drag? Ideal time to get that grip really strong.

[36chambers]

STG: Exorcist short 8a
MTG: training for font
LTG: 8B

M: Cold few hours at Caley
T: 90 minutes yoga
W: 50 board, got some wads to recommend problems. I always use similar holds/sequences, so it was a nice change. Hard problems, good session. 
T: Spontaneous sunset session at Almscliff. Went along to spot the gf, but she took an awkward fall and didn't want to climb more. Had a play on Exorcist and somehow sent climbed it!! Second of the grade, YYFY Very happy as I was concerned my previous one may had been a fluke. Now I just need to do one that isn't a pointless, link up, eliminate, at the cliff DWR...
F: Celebration beers.
S: Checked out a new wall that has opened locally
S: 50 board. Working said hard problems. Feeling more confident on the smaller holds, which I've always been reluctant to use. Tweaky finger appears to be coping quite well.

[tomtom]

Csl
\o/ 36chambers!!

[csl]

Thanks all! Probably right about the jugs thing - it does still hurt dragging small holds as well though. I bought a funny finger sleeve ice thing from bananafingers so hopefully will improve quickly. Just a shame when im in siurana in 3 weeks!

Cha1n - its the opposite hand to the one i had a bad finger on in Chorro, so i think its probably because i was worrying so much about reinjuring that so didnt notice my left getting a bit tweaky.

Bon effort 36 chambers!

[shark]

Thanks csl - sorry to hear about your finger

11.3-4

M.
T. Evening. Burbage. Went out in dark. Windy and cold. Thought it would be mint from the forecast but actually glassy. Tomtom showed up. Threat of rain meant I didnt have long enough rests between goes and soon got tired. Dont think I'd recovered from weekend. Rain came in and we abandoned and went back for beef stew
W.
T. Evening. Wasnt intending to go out but Tommy got home from school and declared it was a lovely evening and we should go out.  Perfect connies. Had some good goes on BD but didnt hang the slot. Couple of goes off the ladder revealed the finishing moves are desperate too. Didn't manage them. Tommy did Remegence which he says he has done before
F.
S. Morning. Headed out to Burbage and met Johnny A there. Rain already setting in at 9.30am - earlier than forecast. We went over to Eatswood. Crag dry but wind blowing in and rain got progressively worse. Had a few goes at the Reverse but struggled to get my fingers warm. James J and his mate Toby turned up. Went back to car to warm up, literally. Had a couple more goes but fingers still cold so chucked towel in
S. Afternoon. Been putting it off but finally had an attempt at something resembling short AeroPower on my systems board. Hopeless. Cant keep going for more than 90 secs. Need to build it up

Marginal progress with weight loss. Need to get to grips with endurance (AeroPower) as Malham is drying out. Forecast looking good this week. eatswood on Tues and Burbage on Thurs I think

[36chambers]

Thanks all! Probably right about the jugs thing - it does still hurt dragging small holds as well though. I bought a funny finger sleeve ice thing from bananafingers so hopefully will improve quickly. Just a shame when im in siurana in 3 weeks!

I'm treating an old injury so bare that in mind. However, I've been using the finger sleeve twice daily for about 3 weeks now, it's really helped with my A2 management. Again, I'm not sure about recent injuries, but using a spiky finger massager (http://www.michaelstainthorpe.co.uk/finger-massagers/) has really helped as well. It may be useful for the latter stages of rehab.


 

[ashtond6]

Thanks csl, just so you know I get loads problems with my hands and since I've avoided jugs they have got loads better. I think it must be how they press

M start of 2 days rest!

T rest and antags

W spanked at awesome walls, started stamina training for Spain.  Failed on a 6b haha. Scared on a rope

T had 20 mins so did the 6B+ at broomgrove

F rest

S firstly eatswood with shark, thanks shark! The traverse is my anti style so I just worked moves on the first half to the knee bar at 7A+. Pleased with some funky moves
Onwards to stoney, which was wet. Then on to broomgrove. Spent about 2-3 hours there and made some really good progress!

S burbage was soaked so went to the works. 5 hour session! Did so many problems! Had 2 15 min rests. Highlight was a murple  second go. Gonna hurt tomorrow!

I really love broomgrove. Anyone got any beta vids of the crux on the traverse? I can do it but it's extremely on-off my way

[Footwork]

Sorry to hear Conor, I'm sure it will sort itself out for the trip though. Niggles and tweaks often do. I usually lay off a couple days and open hand/ drag everything. Can't crimp anyway.

Monday: Went to Caley Roadside by myself and ran into 36 chambers. Did a few of 6b/c's I'd never done. Tried secret seventh as it wasn't too bad on my shoulder. Still can't do it, unless you're allowed a heel toe lock at the back?..

Tuesday: Sat an exam and went to the depot. Climbed quite reservedly and shoulder very, very sore after 

Wednesday: Shoulder hurt a lot. Did some physio

Thursday:

Friday: Physio for an hour

Sat: A bottle of red and two whiskeys. A ton of cheese, meats and coffees with double cream. Woops.

Sun: Didn't feel too good. Went to the depot in the evening and climbed some easy stuff. Bit of physio after.

[Will Hunt]

unless you're allowed a heel toe lock at the back?

Back around   

[Muenchener]

STG (Easter): under 80kg. Currently around 82. Kochel 6C trav project.
MTG (2016): Redpoint 7b
LTG (<= 5 years): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.

M: shoulder mobility / prehab half an hour 
T:
W: bike one hour
T: Boulderwelt. Spectacularly weak attempt at a max bouldering session. I get the feeling my winter strength phase has achieved whatever it was going to achieve and it's time to move into the spring PE phase.
F: Boulderwelt. Start of PE season: laps on circuits.
S: Snowboarding with M jnr.
S: Boulderwelt same as Friday.

So: PE training. Not sure if I'm doing this right. I'm training on circuits on a public wall where I have to take turns, so a rigorous scientific approach with a stopwatch is out of the question. I'm taking little enough rest between laps that I'm getting cumulatively fatigued over the course of a session and am completely shagged by the end. I'm doing two different things:
(1) 25 to 30 move circuits around my onsight level
(2) 10 to 15 move links on circuits around my redpoint level.
About right?

[Andy F V2.0]

Goals as before.
Mon - woke to find my left elbow very sore on the inside, a flare up of some previous mild tendonitis. Apply voltarol repeatedly during the day.
Tues - easy bouldering at the Hangar, elbow sore but manageable.
Wed - as Mon
Thurs - slight improvement
Fri - Hangar, did most of the new set, elbow Managua improved during the session.
Sat
Sun - short Hangar session, elbow improving.

The elbow issue is annoying as it's preventing any chance to fingerboard. Careful management will hopefully ease the problem in a couple of weeks.

[T_B]

85Kg

M - Foundry lunch. Light bouldering, still trashed from w/e. PM headtorch run - White Edge/Curbar/Froggatt 9.3km.
T - F/Board. Repeaters including 2 X 6 X 7 half crimp on 18mm edge - first time half crimping since pulley.
W -
T - AM ran to work 7.9Km. Lunch Wave - some level 2s and 2 level 3s.
F -
S - Depot Manchester for Mrs T_B's birthday. Needless to say we were wowed. Tried about a dozen yellows getting up about a third of them.
S - AM Limb Brook 10.8km with some short hills.

3 X runs this week working on basis of more frequent but shorter is better for a beginner. Ankle feels fairly maxed. Finger wise I could try anything at the Depot but it felt pretty sore on Sunday.

[Nibile]

Power Club

STG - board projects.

Mon - Litvinov variation, this little thing here Absolutely brilliant. Abs Doms kicking in.
Tue - rest. AbsmagedDoms. Jesuschrist.
Wed - absmagedDoms. Even worse. Despite this I was wonderful on the board. Who would have thought that some day I would have iced those moves? Mindblowing. Highest intensity of last months. Two tries left me physically and mentally exhausted, instead of jumping and screaming with joy I just lay on the mats trying to catch my breath and recover the ability to stand up. Mega.
Thu - climbing class. Little climbing. AbsmagedDoms slightly better.
Fri - rest. Finally pain free.
Sat - another mindblowing board session. Felt immediately strong on the holds, so I thought about trying an old project to which I had had to add a hold because the original was too hard. Did the move in isolation right away. Laughed out loud. Then proceeded to crush it from the start, twice. Fell high up, close to the top, both times, with fingers sliding from a rounded edge. Fantastic. Another level of core tension, movement precision and finger strength. Glory days.
Sun - rest.


Lesson to learn: I can't spend four days with horrible abs Doms, training seriously hindered. Must tailor my core session in a better way. Last one was too much volume at too high intensity. D'oh.
This was third week of complete training - weights and board - so next one will be board only. From now on it will work like this, 3 + 1.

[cheque]

Are those Brothel Creepers Nibs?!

[Wood FT]

Mon - Wave, 12 x L2 and 2 x L3 (did green spots). Finished with working moves on pink spots, hard moves at the start for the short. 
Tue - Foundry routes, 10 x 6b - 7a
Wed - Foundry Wave and routes, 6 x L2 and 6 x routes 6b - 6c+
Thu - Foundry Wave and routes, 7 x L2/L3 and 6 routes 6b - 6c+ with double laps at end.
Fri - Devon bound
Sat - Devon sent, 6 mile walk
Sun - Devon return, 5 mile walk

[nai]

bad news, csl
good work, 36chambers

M - fingerboard then tempted to Burbage by sunshine to do LI AeroCap.  Bumped into Scouse hobbling around, great to see him solo a VDiff and declare himself a rock climber again.

T - tempted out to Plantation by nice weather. Bit of a circuit but got shutdown on Green Traverse. Went over to do Spur Traverse which I'd never managed before, returned to GT and managed it. Felt a bit underpowered.

Met a guy who had travelled 4 hours on train and foot (and would do the reverse that evening) costing £180 to come for an afternoon out. Made me feel quite ashamed that I can't be arsed to drive 10 minutes for anything other than perfect connies.

HI AeroCap back home

w rest

Th - AeroPow routes at Foundry. So-So session

F - AeroPow boulders at Foundry - brilliant work out, got about 15 L2s into a 25 minute set. Pullups & Conditioning back home.

S - rest

S - New week, new fingerboard workout plus some benchmarking for upcoming exercises

Thought this was my last week of training but the new plan has arrived and it seems it continues for a few weeks yet.

Commenced weight loss campaign, lost 1.3kg this week, another 2 weeks at that rate would be about right

[SA Chris]

Father forgive me it's been 3 weeks since my last confession. Post Sharkathon;

M - Packed. Repacked. Got to bed about Midnight.
T - Work, flew to Geneva. Arrived Les Gets about 12:30.
W - woke to rain, but it was falling as snow from mid mountain. Was good in higher slopes, but wet and sticky lower down, killer on the thighs. As day progressed temps dropped and it fell hard stopped by about 4.
T - Fresh snow, but a bit cloudy - hit a couple of lower lines, then hit "freeride zone" as it opened. Brutal traverse, but lapped it 4 times before it was pretty much tracked out. Some great turns. Lunch. Headed up Mont Chery side, did a couple of pistes, but all tracked out. Did a couple of laps on the tree runs, then finished with the classic off piste descent from ridge down to car. Been some new chalets built since we last did it a few years back, so ended up in a building site. Another dump of snow in the evening
F - Bluebird. Hit up local resort in epic conditions. Did a couple of laps on the upper lift before hitting the back side and scored the long off piste run off the back in mint condition. So good we did laps on it all day (annoyingly takes a drag and 2 chairs to get back to the top) until we were starving. Quick late lunch then hoovered up a few more lines before lifts shut. Epic day, probably best I've ever had in Alps.
S - Bluebird. Grand Massif was the plan. Unfortunately high winds meant Flaine upper lifts were closed, so it was Massif only. Was pretty much tracked out, but watched a few locals and picked out a few good off piste lines and still score some fresh.
S - Ski Day. Started out Mont Chery side, did a few pistes before snow came in. Visibility got worse, so crossed over to main side. Rain in town though, so got wet and then froze up again as we went up other side. Few laps in wet snow before long lunch and dry out. After lunch temp had fallen and about 3 inches of fresh down. Visibility poor, but still managed some great run on skis. Snowed until early evening.
M - Back to small local resort. Snow good, vis good, unfortunately high winds. Got some good runs in, but wind blown snow felt distinctly Scottish. High chairs opened so we bagged a few lines, but then shut again when we were as far away from car as we could be. One chair home changed into 2 x pomas and 2 low chairs to get back to car. Bit of a frenetic dash back to airport. Tiring trip home, got there by 11.
T - Nothing. Knackered
W - Not Much. Started packing van
T - Not Much. More packing
F - More Packing. Was going to do boulder comp, but felt woefully tired and need to pack more.
S - Drive to Grantown - lovely day, were planning skiing at Lecht, but no hire kit for children available. Walk in the snow in afternoon.
S - snowy day. Sledging with kids on golf course, hard work dragging 2 kids back up the hill.
M- Aviemore and Loch Morlich. Fun in the snow on the beach, but of walk and sledging.
T - Short walk in morning. Weather rubbish - warm and wet. Lecht looked unappealing so headed for home.
W -  Back to work. Evening bouldering, had an OK session, but no climbing for 3 weeks meant I was really feeling it on steeped stuff.
T - Nothing
F - Nothing
S - Swimming in morning with daughter. Walk in afternoon with kids.
S - Hungover - set to work tidying Garage to make space for woody. Some weights in evening.

[cheque]

Two weeks from me, you lucky people! 

STG- 7s (at this point I'd settle for 6C)/ Extremes on grit this season.

MTG- 7b/+ in 2016 is the ideal- may have to settle for "finish film without slipping further into punterdom" though.

LTG- 8a

M- Rest.

Tu- Notts Depot. New problems for inter-university comp. Focussed on the steep, unnumbered ones on the comp wall- did surprisingly well.  Then worked through the numbered ones- also did surprisingly well!

W- Rest.

Th- Notts Depot. Turns out the unnumbered problems were for the comp final and were adjusted on Wednesday to make them harder- Did a couple of the adjusted ones (which I'm proud of) then pink 23 from the normal comp (which I'm also proud of as it shut me down a week before) then some more problems left from Tuesday.  Good session- it seems a month or so of unsuccesfully attempting steep problems here has led to improvement.

F- Rest.

Sa- Froggatt. Went out soloing partly to get some route-familiarity going again and partly not to inflict my stressed and grumpy mood on people. It was a bit damp and the quietest I've ever known it! Terrified soloing at first but got into it- did a few routes I'd never done before and a few I'd never soloed before. We're talking more Slab Recess Direct than Hairless Heart here.

Su- Roaches. Mint conditions. Arrived late (parking stress) to find my mates warmed-up and on Trust at the 4th(?) cloud. What a cool problem! Didn't do well on it myself though- wasn't in the zone and relying more on others' beta than trying to find my own method. Chilled out though and went on to do a few 6Bs (Persistence on the 2nd(?) Cloud and Ascent of Woman Start) pretty quickly though. Pleased with that as 6B seems to have, embarrassingly, become my limit- getting past this is my aim this season and I feel like I can do it now. Worked Teck Crack Direct at the end- I didn't feel far off this.

M-Th "Romantic" Holyhead-based weekend with ever-patient girlfriend  , much of which was occupied with what I'm going to ostentatiously term "location scouting". Lots of hiking and scrambling about in inadvisable places (including those terrifying slopes above Gogarth Main Cliff  ) carrying a variety of climbing and filmmaking gear in a variety of adverse weather conditions (I'd never been blown off my feet by the wind before Tuesday, when it happened four times ) - this certainly falls into the category of bulding site/ army fitness, which I've learnt is largely useless training for rock climbing but probably is good for big walling/ Alpinism and is definitely good  for "adventure filmmaking". Mixed results scouting-wise but definite progress- need to go back soon with a lot more rope!  Ate loads of Creme Eggs and food in odd but cheap North Wales restaurants.

F- Rest. Battered!

Sa- Rest.

Su- Rest. Well, walked into town and back.

Feel like I'm seeing improvement in bouldering at last. More light means I'm getting more interested in the prospect of routes though- hopefully get some success in each before the film takes over.

[Nibile]

Are those Brothel Creepers Nibs?!

Just some Nike Air Rift!

[rodma]

well done 36

Weight 61.1kg

Mon: wieghts: slightly heavier on the deadlifts but the same on c&p
Tue: campus at home
Wed: Weights: same as Monday, only slightly heavier again on deadlifts. this is the first session where i haven't let the weights touch down between any of the reps (within sets, not between), feels pretty awesome.
Thur: campus at home
Fri: rest
Sat: wall session: reasonably good, but tire quickly
sun: wall session: this one was just for a bit of mileage and to get the wee one used to letting us take turns to climb, prior to getting back outside with him.

[Nibile]

this is the first session where i haven't let the weights touch down between any of the reps (within sets, not between)

Rodma, I'm not exactly sure that it's a good idea, especially if you go heavy. I've read that it's better to briefly drop the barbell and check form and body position before the next rep. It's quite common to lose form on the way down, mostly by rounding of the lower back, and also due to possible ankles and hips mobility issues, so it's impossible to correct the form without dropping the bar.
Resting the bar also makes it possible to "get tight" again, breathe in, drop shoulder blades and get a "high chest".
Finally it cuts out all stretch reflex and makes for a more complete pull, because you start lower and can try and be faster.
Just my 2 cents.

[rodma]

Thanks for the concern nibs

 I'm using extremely light weights and using perfect form as an experiment. I'm at less than bodyweight on everything, but it is hitting my lower traps way better than 2* bodyweight resting between reps

Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk

[webbo]

Mon. Start off with weights but my elbow is still stiff/sore feels like there are floating bodies in there again. Deadhanging usual 7 different grips increased the weight to 12 lbs including cast but dropped duration of hangs to 6 seconds. Did an extra hang on each grip due to not doing weights.3 sets of repeaters with same weights to finish,4 mins between each set.
Tue. Nothing.
Wed. Crunches, body lowers, lying cycling, lying leg raises then same deadhanging session as Monday.
Thu. Nothing.
Fri. Same as Wed
Sat. Nothing.
Sun. Sawing some wood up and a bit of vacuuming.
Much more mobile on my foot but still a fair few weeks before cast comes off.

[rodma]

Thanks for the concern nibs

 I'm using extremely light weights and using perfect form as an experiment. I'm at less than bodyweight on everything, but it is hitting my lower traps way better than 2* bodyweight resting between reps

should have said that even deadlifting 30kg resting between reps but with good form is hitting the right spots way better than lifting 130kg with reasonable form.

not putting the weights down in between is actually pumping up (there is even visible redness) my lower traps. it's awesome so far

[Nibile]

 
We all love big traps.

[the_dom]

Mon: Bouldering. Decent session. Plenty of mileage at a decent level of difficulty.
Tues: Trail run.
Wed: One arm and repeaters session on the hangboard and some core.
Thurs: Bouldering. Slightly tired.
Fri: Weights - really solid session - DLs 5/5/5 up to approx 140kgs, 200 KB swings at 24kgs, 30 KB TGUs at 24kgs.
Sat: Morning surf and rest.
Sun: Decent bouldering session and one arm work on the hangboard and some core while watching the Proteas murder the Poms.

Not a bad week - explains why I'm feeling quite exhausted today.

[Dolly]

M Wave at lunchtime. Felt light and bouncy warming up but think I tried to do too much without resting properly so didnt actually manage a level 3. Bit frustrating. Yoga in the evening
T HIT in the morning and campusing and beastmaker bawls at lunchtime. Battered afterwards. Worked late
W HIT and kettlebells in the am before work. Felt tired at work and throat got sore and my voice got deeper. Worked late again
T Woke up with a voice do deep it made Barry White sound like Aled Jones. Felt ill. Only managed a few hours at work
F Few more hours at work but too ill to train
S HIT. THen after a good nap 10 easy routes at gym. Found it hard though
S. HIT then core session at gym. Still not feeling right


Good start to the week, but getting ill stopped much climbing.

[tomtom]

mornin'

M: Work, rest, elbow exercises

T: Work - then for some reason (a shit looking forecast for the rest of the week) I was inspired to join Shark for a lamping session at Remergence. This involved a 2 hour drive from Hull > Burbage on the tail end of rush hour and the journey back. Sadly, conditions were sub optimal, and I got less further (if such an expression exists) than before. Still miles and all that. Shark took pity on my blearly motorway fatigued frame and invited me back for some stew - which I gratefully accepted, and was given a tour of the very impressive recently refurbished Shark Cave, including a rare stash of whites...



W: Work. played 5 a side in the evening for the first time in 5-6 years. F*ck me it hurt. Not too bad on the out of breath front - but my groin stiffened up (fnarr) after about 30-40 min. Seems like my legs are capable of running/walking but not used to stretching/kicking etc... Had to give up after 50 min or so which was probably sensible...

Th: Peak > Curbar. Strange climbing mood... flashed Trackside, but flailed on 3 pockets.. Went up to the pit determined to get Early Doors done, good first attempt but slapped wrong part of sloper and spooned off.. then faffed with early mid part of sequence - burnt out after X attempts. Got fed up, went to look at Bad Lip (never been to bad landing boulder) - managed first move, then felt poleaxed trying to do the second feet swing across move (for the facing right way). Utterly trashed. went home.

Fr: Wibble. Climbing and football related DOMs in many places they had not been felt before...

Sa: Curbazzle again... Out early before the rain came.. up to Bad Lip - gave up on all this swinging feet right method and just went straight up. Worked well. Then couldnt do it from the first move linked etc.. Thought I'd done it - then video showed dabbage



Then the rain exceeded the rate of drying so I bailed to Rubicon. Which was soggy but perfectly servicable... got re-aquainted with A Bigger Tail - and made some progress - despite (as video studying would show) using a weird sequence of feet at the start.

Su: Manc Depot. Knackered - bit of a meh session - but got some mileage done anyway....

[a dense loner]

We all love big traps.

Silly trap story nibs and rodma. After just dead hanging and doing kettle bells for a bit i bumped into Zaff who's face went white as he put his hand up and squeezed my traps saying "What have you been doing Lee? They're not the traps of a climber!"

Feel free to change the word traps to something more amusing.

[cha1n]

Thought I'd done it - then video showed dabbage

I could live with that amount of dabbage!

[filz]

M: rings and bodyweight: dips, front lever progression, plank, L-sits, handstands, bridges
T: board session
W: a few exercises in the morning: squat jumps, explosive pull ups, pliometric push ups. In the evening fb max hangs
T: board session. Did some experiments with throws and climbing with added weight.
F: rest
S: weight session
S: bouldering. Too hot

[Muenchener]

F - 40 min bike, plus 80 pullups, 60 ring Pushups, 60 ring flys, 60 ring I's, and 40 ATB's

This definitely wins week 313's "most obscure exercise" award. What is a "ring I"?

I assume it's what one does before a "ring Y" and a "ring T"

[Wood FT]

We all love big traps.

Silly bap story nibs and rodma. After just dead hanging and doing kettle bells for a bit i bumped into Zaff who's face went white as he put his hand up and squeezed my traps saying "What have you been doing Lee? They're not the baps of a climber!"

Feel free to change the word traps to something more amusing.

[Nibile]

We all love big baps indeed.

[tomtom]

Thought I'd done it - then video showed dabbage

I could live with that amount of dabbage!

If I hadn't of filmed it I wouldn't have noticed! Annoying as it was all over by that point. Anyway - planning to pop back for the 7B that goes into it so I'll get the chance again

[rodma]

We all love big traps.

Silly trap story nibs and rodma. After just dead hanging and doing kettle bells for a bit i bumped into Zaff who's face went white as he put his hand up and squeezed my traps saying "What have you been doing Lee? They're not the traps of a climber!"

Feel free to change the word traps to something more amusing.

what have your giant traps got to do with my underdeveloped lower traps 

[Luke Owens]

M: Lunch - 50 Crunches
30 Side Crunches (15 each side)
5 x 5sec L-Hangs
8 Leg raises (Feet touching bar)
10 Knee tucks
3 x 10 Dorsal Raises
5 x 5sec L-Hangs
8 Leg raises (Feet touching bar)
10 Knee tucks

T: Lunch - 3 x 10 Press ups
3 x 10 Shoulder Rotations (5kg)
3 x 12 Bent over flys (5kg)
3 x 20 sec L-Hangs
3 x 10 Dorsal Raises

Eve: Plas Power - 15 mins ARC traverse Warm-up

20' Board - 2 x 7A, 2 x 7A+

45' Board - Repeated my project from the other week which is about 7A+, mate confirmed it's difficulty. Repeated 6C+/7A and almost did a new project, big wide moves.

Really good session, felt strong despite still feeling tired from being out all day Sunday.

W: Lunch - 50 Crunches
30 Side Crunches (15 each side)
5 x 5sec L-Hangs
8 Leg raises (Feet to bar)
10 Knee tucks
3 x 10 Dorsal Raises
5 x 5sec L-Hangs
8 Leg raises (Feet to bar)
10 Knee tucks

T: Lunch - 3 x 10 Shoulder Raises (5kg)
3 x 10 Bent Over Flys (5kg)
3 x 10 Dorsal Raises
3 x 20 sec L-Hang
3 x 10 Press Ups

Eve - Plas Power

15 min ARC traverse warm-up

20' Board - 2 x 7A, 2 x 7A+

45' Board - Did new project after about 5 goes this session, about 7A+. Repeated 6C+.

F: Rest

S: Rest

S: Went to the Cave, completely condensed out, gutted.

Went to Cave Wall on top of the Little Orme, did Floppy's Reach (6A+) and tried the 7A in the middle a few times, felt hard. Tried a 7A around the corner on Bulging Wall too, which was also nails.

[shurt]

Sorry to hear one of the Siurana faithful have done themselves and injury (csl) I hope it improves in the next few weeks. 36 Chambers - Great to hear one of the years goals getting ticked in Feb. Nice one. 

Stg: get fit for Spain,  do routes outside as much as possible beforehand (this hasn't happened)
Mtg: 7b+ sport, E4, f7a+
Ltg: 8a sport

Mon: think I did 3 sets of PE on fingerboard again with increased PUs
Tues: nothing
Wed: worked long day
Thurs: 2 sets of PE in AM and then 2 sets of PE in eve with increased PUs plus 10 PUs before bed (75 PUs in the day, think its a record)
Fri: 10 Pull ups before bed body still pretty toasted from previous day tbh
Sat: nothing training wise
Sun: nothing - curry and beer

Not a bad week. Was really busy with work over the weekend so not going to give myself a hard time over lack of training then. I've still yet to get out on rock recently which is a bit weird before a trip as I have no idea where I'm at (maybe a good thing as Spain different from the UK).

[Sasquatch]

Hands together in plank position, move hands forward until you are completely horizontal from hand to ankles, then move back to plank position

[Hugh]

STG: 7B. More grit sessions.
MTG: Don't get broken.

Mon: Quick 4x4s session at TCA.
Tue: Max hangs (13kg 16mm 10s).
Wed: TCA, Woody. Good session, nearly repeated an old hard (for me) project.
Thu: Nowt.
Fri: TCA again, pootled round the 6a-6c circuit and did some from the 6c-7b circuit.
Sat: 4.5km run.
Sun: Max hangs (15kg 16mm 10s). Good session, felt strong.

Excellent week, definitely feeling back to normal-ish. Hopefully now it's stopped raining constantly I'll be able to get out this week.

[Muenchener]

F - 40 min bike, plus 80 pullups, 60 ring Pushups, 60 ring flys, 60 ring I's, and 40 ATB's

This definitely wins week 313's "most obscure exercise" award. What is a "ring I"?

I assume it's what one does before a "ring Y" and a "ring T"

I am still none the wiser!

Turns out I was wrong anyway

[csl]

using a spiky finger massager (http://www.michaelstainthorpe.co.uk/finger-massagers/) has really helped as well. It may be useful for the latter stages of rehab.

Ordered one immediately after this, and used it today for 30 minutes before climbing. Seems to have made a big difference, managed a few reasonably difficult problems using a three finger drag grip and it doesn't feel any worse for it! Going to keep the climbing volume low and keep icing and massaging, but fingers crossed it won't be as bad as I thought.

[fried]

2 ok indoor sessions.

No internet.

[JackAus]

STG: More V8s. Consistent sub 75kg.
MTG: V9.
LTG: V11. Fear Factory List. 7/10 done.

M: Rest.
T: St Leonards. New stuff. Ticked all bar 4. Campus after.
W: Rest.
T: St Leonards. Campus, front levers, shit like that.
F: Rest.
S: RnR. Small cave crag. Very humid. Ticked a couple things. Fell off a couple things. Prob won't go back.
S: Wing Cave. Tried a buuunch of stuff here. Finding new projects for winter really. But ticked Paw No More, a V8 mantle, which was tough. Way too hot for slopers like that. Jumped on Born With Wings V8, Lock Tight V9 and Groove Terminator V10/11. All ones to come back to. Accepted that Sheffield Steal V10 is nigh on impossible for me, ever. Don't know of anyone who has repeated that...

[a dense loner]

If zaff puts his hand on your traps you have to tell someone Rodma, I'm at peace with it now they're not giant anymore! I can't look at a kettlebell without putting mass on that's why they're consigned to the floor space in the garage