[Nibile]

this is the first session where i haven't let the weights touch down between any of the reps (within sets, not between)

Rodma, I'm not exactly sure that it's a good idea, especially if you go heavy. I've read that it's better to briefly drop the barbell and check form and body position before the next rep. It's quite common to lose form on the way down, mostly by rounding of the lower back, and also due to possible ankles and hips mobility issues, so it's impossible to correct the form without dropping the bar.
Resting the bar also makes it possible to "get tight" again, breathe in, drop shoulder blades and get a "high chest".
Finally it cuts out all stretch reflex and makes for a more complete pull, because you start lower and can try and be faster.
Just my 2 cents.

[rodma]

Thanks for the concern nibs

 I'm using extremely light weights and using perfect form as an experiment. I'm at less than bodyweight on everything, but it is hitting my lower traps way better than 2* bodyweight resting between reps

Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk

[webbo]

Mon. Start off with weights but my elbow is still stiff/sore feels like there are floating bodies in there again. Deadhanging usual 7 different grips increased the weight to 12 lbs including cast but dropped duration of hangs to 6 seconds. Did an extra hang on each grip due to not doing weights.3 sets of repeaters with same weights to finish,4 mins between each set.
Tue. Nothing.
Wed. Crunches, body lowers, lying cycling, lying leg raises then same deadhanging session as Monday.
Thu. Nothing.
Fri. Same as Wed
Sat. Nothing.
Sun. Sawing some wood up and a bit of vacuuming.
Much more mobile on my foot but still a fair few weeks before cast comes off.

[rodma]

Thanks for the concern nibs

 I'm using extremely light weights and using perfect form as an experiment. I'm at less than bodyweight on everything, but it is hitting my lower traps way better than 2* bodyweight resting between reps

should have said that even deadlifting 30kg resting between reps but with good form is hitting the right spots way better than lifting 130kg with reasonable form.

not putting the weights down in between is actually pumping up (there is even visible redness) my lower traps. it's awesome so far

[Nibile]

 
We all love big traps.

[the_dom]

Mon: Bouldering. Decent session. Plenty of mileage at a decent level of difficulty.
Tues: Trail run.
Wed: One arm and repeaters session on the hangboard and some core.
Thurs: Bouldering. Slightly tired.
Fri: Weights - really solid session - DLs 5/5/5 up to approx 140kgs, 200 KB swings at 24kgs, 30 KB TGUs at 24kgs.
Sat: Morning surf and rest.
Sun: Decent bouldering session and one arm work on the hangboard and some core while watching the Proteas murder the Poms.

Not a bad week - explains why I'm feeling quite exhausted today.

[Dolly]

M Wave at lunchtime. Felt light and bouncy warming up but think I tried to do too much without resting properly so didnt actually manage a level 3. Bit frustrating. Yoga in the evening
T HIT in the morning and campusing and beastmaker bawls at lunchtime. Battered afterwards. Worked late
W HIT and kettlebells in the am before work. Felt tired at work and throat got sore and my voice got deeper. Worked late again
T Woke up with a voice do deep it made Barry White sound like Aled Jones. Felt ill. Only managed a few hours at work
F Few more hours at work but too ill to train
S HIT. THen after a good nap 10 easy routes at gym. Found it hard though
S. HIT then core session at gym. Still not feeling right


Good start to the week, but getting ill stopped much climbing.

[tomtom]

mornin'

M: Work, rest, elbow exercises

T: Work - then for some reason (a shit looking forecast for the rest of the week) I was inspired to join Shark for a lamping session at Remergence. This involved a 2 hour drive from Hull > Burbage on the tail end of rush hour and the journey back. Sadly, conditions were sub optimal, and I got less further (if such an expression exists) than before. Still miles and all that. Shark took pity on my blearly motorway fatigued frame and invited me back for some stew - which I gratefully accepted, and was given a tour of the very impressive recently refurbished Shark Cave, including a rare stash of whites...



W: Work. played 5 a side in the evening for the first time in 5-6 years. F*ck me it hurt. Not too bad on the out of breath front - but my groin stiffened up (fnarr) after about 30-40 min. Seems like my legs are capable of running/walking but not used to stretching/kicking etc... Had to give up after 50 min or so which was probably sensible...

Th: Peak > Curbar. Strange climbing mood... flashed Trackside, but flailed on 3 pockets.. Went up to the pit determined to get Early Doors done, good first attempt but slapped wrong part of sloper and spooned off.. then faffed with early mid part of sequence - burnt out after X attempts. Got fed up, went to look at Bad Lip (never been to bad landing boulder) - managed first move, then felt poleaxed trying to do the second feet swing across move (for the facing right way). Utterly trashed. went home.

Fr: Wibble. Climbing and football related DOMs in many places they had not been felt before...

Sa: Curbazzle again... Out early before the rain came.. up to Bad Lip - gave up on all this swinging feet right method and just went straight up. Worked well. Then couldnt do it from the first move linked etc.. Thought I'd done it - then video showed dabbage



Then the rain exceeded the rate of drying so I bailed to Rubicon. Which was soggy but perfectly servicable... got re-aquainted with A Bigger Tail - and made some progress - despite (as video studying would show) using a weird sequence of feet at the start.

Su: Manc Depot. Knackered - bit of a meh session - but got some mileage done anyway....

[a dense loner]

We all love big traps.

Silly trap story nibs and rodma. After just dead hanging and doing kettle bells for a bit i bumped into Zaff who's face went white as he put his hand up and squeezed my traps saying "What have you been doing Lee? They're not the traps of a climber!"

Feel free to change the word traps to something more amusing.

[cha1n]

Thought I'd done it - then video showed dabbage

I could live with that amount of dabbage!

[filz]

M: rings and bodyweight: dips, front lever progression, plank, L-sits, handstands, bridges
T: board session
W: a few exercises in the morning: squat jumps, explosive pull ups, pliometric push ups. In the evening fb max hangs
T: board session. Did some experiments with throws and climbing with added weight.
F: rest
S: weight session
S: bouldering. Too hot

[Muenchener]

F - 40 min bike, plus 80 pullups, 60 ring Pushups, 60 ring flys, 60 ring I's, and 40 ATB's

This definitely wins week 313's "most obscure exercise" award. What is a "ring I"?

I assume it's what one does before a "ring Y" and a "ring T"

[Wood FT]

We all love big traps.

Silly bap story nibs and rodma. After just dead hanging and doing kettle bells for a bit i bumped into Zaff who's face went white as he put his hand up and squeezed my traps saying "What have you been doing Lee? They're not the baps of a climber!"

Feel free to change the word traps to something more amusing.

[Nibile]

We all love big baps indeed.

[tomtom]

Thought I'd done it - then video showed dabbage

I could live with that amount of dabbage!

If I hadn't of filmed it I wouldn't have noticed! Annoying as it was all over by that point. Anyway - planning to pop back for the 7B that goes into it so I'll get the chance again

[rodma]

We all love big traps.

Silly trap story nibs and rodma. After just dead hanging and doing kettle bells for a bit i bumped into Zaff who's face went white as he put his hand up and squeezed my traps saying "What have you been doing Lee? They're not the traps of a climber!"

Feel free to change the word traps to something more amusing.

what have your giant traps got to do with my underdeveloped lower traps 

[Luke Owens]

M: Lunch - 50 Crunches
30 Side Crunches (15 each side)
5 x 5sec L-Hangs
8 Leg raises (Feet touching bar)
10 Knee tucks
3 x 10 Dorsal Raises
5 x 5sec L-Hangs
8 Leg raises (Feet touching bar)
10 Knee tucks

T: Lunch - 3 x 10 Press ups
3 x 10 Shoulder Rotations (5kg)
3 x 12 Bent over flys (5kg)
3 x 20 sec L-Hangs
3 x 10 Dorsal Raises

Eve: Plas Power - 15 mins ARC traverse Warm-up

20' Board - 2 x 7A, 2 x 7A+

45' Board - Repeated my project from the other week which is about 7A+, mate confirmed it's difficulty. Repeated 6C+/7A and almost did a new project, big wide moves.

Really good session, felt strong despite still feeling tired from being out all day Sunday.

W: Lunch - 50 Crunches
30 Side Crunches (15 each side)
5 x 5sec L-Hangs
8 Leg raises (Feet to bar)
10 Knee tucks
3 x 10 Dorsal Raises
5 x 5sec L-Hangs
8 Leg raises (Feet to bar)
10 Knee tucks

T: Lunch - 3 x 10 Shoulder Raises (5kg)
3 x 10 Bent Over Flys (5kg)
3 x 10 Dorsal Raises
3 x 20 sec L-Hang
3 x 10 Press Ups

Eve - Plas Power

15 min ARC traverse warm-up

20' Board - 2 x 7A, 2 x 7A+

45' Board - Did new project after about 5 goes this session, about 7A+. Repeated 6C+.

F: Rest

S: Rest

S: Went to the Cave, completely condensed out, gutted.

Went to Cave Wall on top of the Little Orme, did Floppy's Reach (6A+) and tried the 7A in the middle a few times, felt hard. Tried a 7A around the corner on Bulging Wall too, which was also nails.

[shurt]

Sorry to hear one of the Siurana faithful have done themselves and injury (csl) I hope it improves in the next few weeks. 36 Chambers - Great to hear one of the years goals getting ticked in Feb. Nice one. 

Stg: get fit for Spain,  do routes outside as much as possible beforehand (this hasn't happened)
Mtg: 7b+ sport, E4, f7a+
Ltg: 8a sport

Mon: think I did 3 sets of PE on fingerboard again with increased PUs
Tues: nothing
Wed: worked long day
Thurs: 2 sets of PE in AM and then 2 sets of PE in eve with increased PUs plus 10 PUs before bed (75 PUs in the day, think its a record)
Fri: 10 Pull ups before bed body still pretty toasted from previous day tbh
Sat: nothing training wise
Sun: nothing - curry and beer

Not a bad week. Was really busy with work over the weekend so not going to give myself a hard time over lack of training then. I've still yet to get out on rock recently which is a bit weird before a trip as I have no idea where I'm at (maybe a good thing as Spain different from the UK).

[Sasquatch]

Hands together in plank position, move hands forward until you are completely horizontal from hand to ankles, then move back to plank position

[Hugh]

STG: 7B. More grit sessions.
MTG: Don't get broken.

Mon: Quick 4x4s session at TCA.
Tue: Max hangs (13kg 16mm 10s).
Wed: TCA, Woody. Good session, nearly repeated an old hard (for me) project.
Thu: Nowt.
Fri: TCA again, pootled round the 6a-6c circuit and did some from the 6c-7b circuit.
Sat: 4.5km run.
Sun: Max hangs (15kg 16mm 10s). Good session, felt strong.

Excellent week, definitely feeling back to normal-ish. Hopefully now it's stopped raining constantly I'll be able to get out this week.

[Muenchener]

F - 40 min bike, plus 80 pullups, 60 ring Pushups, 60 ring flys, 60 ring I's, and 40 ATB's

This definitely wins week 313's "most obscure exercise" award. What is a "ring I"?

I assume it's what one does before a "ring Y" and a "ring T"

I am still none the wiser!

Turns out I was wrong anyway

[csl]

using a spiky finger massager (http://www.michaelstainthorpe.co.uk/finger-massagers/) has really helped as well. It may be useful for the latter stages of rehab.

Ordered one immediately after this, and used it today for 30 minutes before climbing. Seems to have made a big difference, managed a few reasonably difficult problems using a three finger drag grip and it doesn't feel any worse for it! Going to keep the climbing volume low and keep icing and massaging, but fingers crossed it won't be as bad as I thought.

[fried]

2 ok indoor sessions.

No internet.

[JackAus]

STG: More V8s. Consistent sub 75kg.
MTG: V9.
LTG: V11. Fear Factory List. 7/10 done.

M: Rest.
T: St Leonards. New stuff. Ticked all bar 4. Campus after.
W: Rest.
T: St Leonards. Campus, front levers, shit like that.
F: Rest.
S: RnR. Small cave crag. Very humid. Ticked a couple things. Fell off a couple things. Prob won't go back.
S: Wing Cave. Tried a buuunch of stuff here. Finding new projects for winter really. But ticked Paw No More, a V8 mantle, which was tough. Way too hot for slopers like that. Jumped on Born With Wings V8, Lock Tight V9 and Groove Terminator V10/11. All ones to come back to. Accepted that Sheffield Steal V10 is nigh on impossible for me, ever. Don't know of anyone who has repeated that...

[a dense loner]

If zaff puts his hand on your traps you have to tell someone Rodma, I'm at peace with it now they're not giant anymore! I can't look at a kettlebell without putting mass on that's why they're consigned to the floor space in the garage