[csl]

STG
Rehab Finger

MTG
Siurana - a few 7's without ruining finger further. < going to have to adjust this even more: Be able to climb in Siurana

LTG
8a

Somehow since last week, my finger tweak has gone downhill enough that holding jugs, or even a bar causes pain. NNFN.

Thursday
Easy session on the V0-1 circuit at arch, noticeable pain in finger even on jugs.

Sunday

Taped the finger to my pinky to keep it out of the way, and climbed on my front two. Managed boulders up to the Yellow V2-4 circuit. Also did some max hangs on my uninjured hand.

Next week - ice twice daily, 2 v. easy low volume sessions, start to weight finger a little more.

[a dense loner]

How is your pain when not holding jugs csl, as in holding smaller holds and not just a coffee cup handle? Sounds bizarre but I find bigger holds aggravate the area more when I've had finger injuries

[Muenchener]

+1

If the problem is an A2 pulley, then big holds or pull up bars can press directly on it: probably not a good idea.

[Sasquatch]

STG - Prep new routes for upcoming season, continue training, 2 local boulder projects that may be winter doable - The Loony project(8a? stand, and 8b/+? sit) and the Rutted Project(8a+?ish)
MTG - 1 arm pull-up, 1-arm hang BM2K middle lower slot, Spotted Dick Project
LTG - To Bolt...

M - Campus/1 arm/Sloper work -  1-4-7, 8 of 8 times, plus 30 min cardio
T - 90 minute skate ski
W - Rest
T - Max Hangs and Moonboard -  Good MAW Session-5x254#, Decent moonboard session - sent three session project and it felt easy, as they often do.  Did 3 7B+ of the classic sandbagged problems.
F - 40 min bike, plus 80 pullups, 60 ring Pushups, 60 ring flys, 60 ring I's, and 40 ATB's
S -  Backcountry ski - 4 hrs, and soccer 1hr
S - So tired today, but still a good session - MAW-3x256#/1 arm PU 3x4x(-43#)/weights-DL, Dips, core

Busy week with work, but still got some really good training done.  Looking forward to the focus on pulling strength. It feels like it's already starting to pay off. 

[Falling Down]

Sorry hear about your finger CSL.

I've had a cold virus most of the week that left me feeling wiped out until yesterday.

M-F nowt other than the odd walk
S - Pressups and some light weights.
S - Bouldering at The Westway.  Great short session.  Feeling light(ear) and have some "snap" back in my body.  Flashed two whites and ticked two more.  I couldn't touch this grade just a few weeks back.

[cha1n]

Conor, I'd stick to 3 finger drags with pulley injuries, you'll be surprised just how hard you can climb with that grip if you're disciplined. I remember thinking that jugs were the answer on my first round of finger injuries but soon realised it was making them worse as you're usually bent at the PIP and even worse, the jug usually presses into the pulley!

Oh and in my experience (looking at years of patterns as I log all my injuries), the other hand usually isn't too far off of injury when I injure one. Usually a sign of overuse, unless it was a properly random event which caused the injury. How strong are you open on a 3-finger drag? Ideal time to get that grip really strong.

[36chambers]

STG: Exorcist short 8a
MTG: training for font
LTG: 8B

M: Cold few hours at Caley
T: 90 minutes yoga
W: 50 board, got some wads to recommend problems. I always use similar holds/sequences, so it was a nice change. Hard problems, good session. 
T: Spontaneous sunset session at Almscliff. Went along to spot the gf, but she took an awkward fall and didn't want to climb more. Had a play on Exorcist and somehow sent climbed it!! Second of the grade, YYFY Very happy as I was concerned my previous one may had been a fluke. Now I just need to do one that isn't a pointless, link up, eliminate, at the cliff DWR...
F: Celebration beers.
S: Checked out a new wall that has opened locally
S: 50 board. Working said hard problems. Feeling more confident on the smaller holds, which I've always been reluctant to use. Tweaky finger appears to be coping quite well.

[tomtom]

Csl
\o/ 36chambers!!

[csl]

Thanks all! Probably right about the jugs thing - it does still hurt dragging small holds as well though. I bought a funny finger sleeve ice thing from bananafingers so hopefully will improve quickly. Just a shame when im in siurana in 3 weeks!

Cha1n - its the opposite hand to the one i had a bad finger on in Chorro, so i think its probably because i was worrying so much about reinjuring that so didnt notice my left getting a bit tweaky.

Bon effort 36 chambers!

[shark]

Thanks csl - sorry to hear about your finger

11.3-4

M.
T. Evening. Burbage. Went out in dark. Windy and cold. Thought it would be mint from the forecast but actually glassy. Tomtom showed up. Threat of rain meant I didnt have long enough rests between goes and soon got tired. Dont think I'd recovered from weekend. Rain came in and we abandoned and went back for beef stew
W.
T. Evening. Wasnt intending to go out but Tommy got home from school and declared it was a lovely evening and we should go out.  Perfect connies. Had some good goes on BD but didnt hang the slot. Couple of goes off the ladder revealed the finishing moves are desperate too. Didn't manage them. Tommy did Remegence which he says he has done before
F.
S. Morning. Headed out to Burbage and met Johnny A there. Rain already setting in at 9.30am - earlier than forecast. We went over to Eatswood. Crag dry but wind blowing in and rain got progressively worse. Had a few goes at the Reverse but struggled to get my fingers warm. James J and his mate Toby turned up. Went back to car to warm up, literally. Had a couple more goes but fingers still cold so chucked towel in
S. Afternoon. Been putting it off but finally had an attempt at something resembling short AeroPower on my systems board. Hopeless. Cant keep going for more than 90 secs. Need to build it up

Marginal progress with weight loss. Need to get to grips with endurance (AeroPower) as Malham is drying out. Forecast looking good this week. eatswood on Tues and Burbage on Thurs I think

[36chambers]

Thanks all! Probably right about the jugs thing - it does still hurt dragging small holds as well though. I bought a funny finger sleeve ice thing from bananafingers so hopefully will improve quickly. Just a shame when im in siurana in 3 weeks!

I'm treating an old injury so bare that in mind. However, I've been using the finger sleeve twice daily for about 3 weeks now, it's really helped with my A2 management. Again, I'm not sure about recent injuries, but using a spiky finger massager (http://www.michaelstainthorpe.co.uk/finger-massagers/) has really helped as well. It may be useful for the latter stages of rehab.


 

[ashtond6]

Thanks csl, just so you know I get loads problems with my hands and since I've avoided jugs they have got loads better. I think it must be how they press

M start of 2 days rest!

T rest and antags

W spanked at awesome walls, started stamina training for Spain.  Failed on a 6b haha. Scared on a rope

T had 20 mins so did the 6B+ at broomgrove

F rest

S firstly eatswood with shark, thanks shark! The traverse is my anti style so I just worked moves on the first half to the knee bar at 7A+. Pleased with some funky moves
Onwards to stoney, which was wet. Then on to broomgrove. Spent about 2-3 hours there and made some really good progress!

S burbage was soaked so went to the works. 5 hour session! Did so many problems! Had 2 15 min rests. Highlight was a murple  second go. Gonna hurt tomorrow!

I really love broomgrove. Anyone got any beta vids of the crux on the traverse? I can do it but it's extremely on-off my way

[Footwork]

Sorry to hear Conor, I'm sure it will sort itself out for the trip though. Niggles and tweaks often do. I usually lay off a couple days and open hand/ drag everything. Can't crimp anyway.

Monday: Went to Caley Roadside by myself and ran into 36 chambers. Did a few of 6b/c's I'd never done. Tried secret seventh as it wasn't too bad on my shoulder. Still can't do it, unless you're allowed a heel toe lock at the back?..

Tuesday: Sat an exam and went to the depot. Climbed quite reservedly and shoulder very, very sore after 

Wednesday: Shoulder hurt a lot. Did some physio

Thursday:

Friday: Physio for an hour

Sat: A bottle of red and two whiskeys. A ton of cheese, meats and coffees with double cream. Woops.

Sun: Didn't feel too good. Went to the depot in the evening and climbed some easy stuff. Bit of physio after.

[Will Hunt]

unless you're allowed a heel toe lock at the back?

Back around   

[Muenchener]

STG (Easter): under 80kg. Currently around 82. Kochel 6C trav project.
MTG (2016): Redpoint 7b
LTG (<= 5 years): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.

M: shoulder mobility / prehab half an hour 
T:
W: bike one hour
T: Boulderwelt. Spectacularly weak attempt at a max bouldering session. I get the feeling my winter strength phase has achieved whatever it was going to achieve and it's time to move into the spring PE phase.
F: Boulderwelt. Start of PE season: laps on circuits.
S: Snowboarding with M jnr.
S: Boulderwelt same as Friday.

So: PE training. Not sure if I'm doing this right. I'm training on circuits on a public wall where I have to take turns, so a rigorous scientific approach with a stopwatch is out of the question. I'm taking little enough rest between laps that I'm getting cumulatively fatigued over the course of a session and am completely shagged by the end. I'm doing two different things:
(1) 25 to 30 move circuits around my onsight level
(2) 10 to 15 move links on circuits around my redpoint level.
About right?

[Andy F V2.0]

Goals as before.
Mon - woke to find my left elbow very sore on the inside, a flare up of some previous mild tendonitis. Apply voltarol repeatedly during the day.
Tues - easy bouldering at the Hangar, elbow sore but manageable.
Wed - as Mon
Thurs - slight improvement
Fri - Hangar, did most of the new set, elbow Managua improved during the session.
Sat
Sun - short Hangar session, elbow improving.

The elbow issue is annoying as it's preventing any chance to fingerboard. Careful management will hopefully ease the problem in a couple of weeks.

[T_B]

85Kg

M - Foundry lunch. Light bouldering, still trashed from w/e. PM headtorch run - White Edge/Curbar/Froggatt 9.3km.
T - F/Board. Repeaters including 2 X 6 X 7 half crimp on 18mm edge - first time half crimping since pulley.
W -
T - AM ran to work 7.9Km. Lunch Wave - some level 2s and 2 level 3s.
F -
S - Depot Manchester for Mrs T_B's birthday. Needless to say we were wowed. Tried about a dozen yellows getting up about a third of them.
S - AM Limb Brook 10.8km with some short hills.

3 X runs this week working on basis of more frequent but shorter is better for a beginner. Ankle feels fairly maxed. Finger wise I could try anything at the Depot but it felt pretty sore on Sunday.

[Nibile]

Power Club

STG - board projects.

Mon - Litvinov variation, this little thing here Absolutely brilliant. Abs Doms kicking in.
Tue - rest. AbsmagedDoms. Jesuschrist.
Wed - absmagedDoms. Even worse. Despite this I was wonderful on the board. Who would have thought that some day I would have iced those moves? Mindblowing. Highest intensity of last months. Two tries left me physically and mentally exhausted, instead of jumping and screaming with joy I just lay on the mats trying to catch my breath and recover the ability to stand up. Mega.
Thu - climbing class. Little climbing. AbsmagedDoms slightly better.
Fri - rest. Finally pain free.
Sat - another mindblowing board session. Felt immediately strong on the holds, so I thought about trying an old project to which I had had to add a hold because the original was too hard. Did the move in isolation right away. Laughed out loud. Then proceeded to crush it from the start, twice. Fell high up, close to the top, both times, with fingers sliding from a rounded edge. Fantastic. Another level of core tension, movement precision and finger strength. Glory days.
Sun - rest.


Lesson to learn: I can't spend four days with horrible abs Doms, training seriously hindered. Must tailor my core session in a better way. Last one was too much volume at too high intensity. D'oh.
This was third week of complete training - weights and board - so next one will be board only. From now on it will work like this, 3 + 1.

[cheque]

Are those Brothel Creepers Nibs?!

[Wood FT]

Mon - Wave, 12 x L2 and 2 x L3 (did green spots). Finished with working moves on pink spots, hard moves at the start for the short. 
Tue - Foundry routes, 10 x 6b - 7a
Wed - Foundry Wave and routes, 6 x L2 and 6 x routes 6b - 6c+
Thu - Foundry Wave and routes, 7 x L2/L3 and 6 routes 6b - 6c+ with double laps at end.
Fri - Devon bound
Sat - Devon sent, 6 mile walk
Sun - Devon return, 5 mile walk

[nai]

bad news, csl
good work, 36chambers

M - fingerboard then tempted to Burbage by sunshine to do LI AeroCap.  Bumped into Scouse hobbling around, great to see him solo a VDiff and declare himself a rock climber again.

T - tempted out to Plantation by nice weather. Bit of a circuit but got shutdown on Green Traverse. Went over to do Spur Traverse which I'd never managed before, returned to GT and managed it. Felt a bit underpowered.

Met a guy who had travelled 4 hours on train and foot (and would do the reverse that evening) costing £180 to come for an afternoon out. Made me feel quite ashamed that I can't be arsed to drive 10 minutes for anything other than perfect connies.

HI AeroCap back home

w rest

Th - AeroPow routes at Foundry. So-So session

F - AeroPow boulders at Foundry - brilliant work out, got about 15 L2s into a 25 minute set. Pullups & Conditioning back home.

S - rest

S - New week, new fingerboard workout plus some benchmarking for upcoming exercises

Thought this was my last week of training but the new plan has arrived and it seems it continues for a few weeks yet.

Commenced weight loss campaign, lost 1.3kg this week, another 2 weeks at that rate would be about right

[SA Chris]

Father forgive me it's been 3 weeks since my last confession. Post Sharkathon;

M - Packed. Repacked. Got to bed about Midnight.
T - Work, flew to Geneva. Arrived Les Gets about 12:30.
W - woke to rain, but it was falling as snow from mid mountain. Was good in higher slopes, but wet and sticky lower down, killer on the thighs. As day progressed temps dropped and it fell hard stopped by about 4.
T - Fresh snow, but a bit cloudy - hit a couple of lower lines, then hit "freeride zone" as it opened. Brutal traverse, but lapped it 4 times before it was pretty much tracked out. Some great turns. Lunch. Headed up Mont Chery side, did a couple of pistes, but all tracked out. Did a couple of laps on the tree runs, then finished with the classic off piste descent from ridge down to car. Been some new chalets built since we last did it a few years back, so ended up in a building site. Another dump of snow in the evening
F - Bluebird. Hit up local resort in epic conditions. Did a couple of laps on the upper lift before hitting the back side and scored the long off piste run off the back in mint condition. So good we did laps on it all day (annoyingly takes a drag and 2 chairs to get back to the top) until we were starving. Quick late lunch then hoovered up a few more lines before lifts shut. Epic day, probably best I've ever had in Alps.
S - Bluebird. Grand Massif was the plan. Unfortunately high winds meant Flaine upper lifts were closed, so it was Massif only. Was pretty much tracked out, but watched a few locals and picked out a few good off piste lines and still score some fresh.
S - Ski Day. Started out Mont Chery side, did a few pistes before snow came in. Visibility got worse, so crossed over to main side. Rain in town though, so got wet and then froze up again as we went up other side. Few laps in wet snow before long lunch and dry out. After lunch temp had fallen and about 3 inches of fresh down. Visibility poor, but still managed some great run on skis. Snowed until early evening.
M - Back to small local resort. Snow good, vis good, unfortunately high winds. Got some good runs in, but wind blown snow felt distinctly Scottish. High chairs opened so we bagged a few lines, but then shut again when we were as far away from car as we could be. One chair home changed into 2 x pomas and 2 low chairs to get back to car. Bit of a frenetic dash back to airport. Tiring trip home, got there by 11.
T - Nothing. Knackered
W - Not Much. Started packing van
T - Not Much. More packing
F - More Packing. Was going to do boulder comp, but felt woefully tired and need to pack more.
S - Drive to Grantown - lovely day, were planning skiing at Lecht, but no hire kit for children available. Walk in the snow in afternoon.
S - snowy day. Sledging with kids on golf course, hard work dragging 2 kids back up the hill.
M- Aviemore and Loch Morlich. Fun in the snow on the beach, but of walk and sledging.
T - Short walk in morning. Weather rubbish - warm and wet. Lecht looked unappealing so headed for home.
W -  Back to work. Evening bouldering, had an OK session, but no climbing for 3 weeks meant I was really feeling it on steeped stuff.
T - Nothing
F - Nothing
S - Swimming in morning with daughter. Walk in afternoon with kids.
S - Hungover - set to work tidying Garage to make space for woody. Some weights in evening.

[cheque]

Two weeks from me, you lucky people! 

STG- 7s (at this point I'd settle for 6C)/ Extremes on grit this season.

MTG- 7b/+ in 2016 is the ideal- may have to settle for "finish film without slipping further into punterdom" though.

LTG- 8a

M- Rest.

Tu- Notts Depot. New problems for inter-university comp. Focussed on the steep, unnumbered ones on the comp wall- did surprisingly well.  Then worked through the numbered ones- also did surprisingly well!

W- Rest.

Th- Notts Depot. Turns out the unnumbered problems were for the comp final and were adjusted on Wednesday to make them harder- Did a couple of the adjusted ones (which I'm proud of) then pink 23 from the normal comp (which I'm also proud of as it shut me down a week before) then some more problems left from Tuesday.  Good session- it seems a month or so of unsuccesfully attempting steep problems here has led to improvement.

F- Rest.

Sa- Froggatt. Went out soloing partly to get some route-familiarity going again and partly not to inflict my stressed and grumpy mood on people. It was a bit damp and the quietest I've ever known it! Terrified soloing at first but got into it- did a few routes I'd never done before and a few I'd never soloed before. We're talking more Slab Recess Direct than Hairless Heart here.

Su- Roaches. Mint conditions. Arrived late (parking stress) to find my mates warmed-up and on Trust at the 4th(?) cloud. What a cool problem! Didn't do well on it myself though- wasn't in the zone and relying more on others' beta than trying to find my own method. Chilled out though and went on to do a few 6Bs (Persistence on the 2nd(?) Cloud and Ascent of Woman Start) pretty quickly though. Pleased with that as 6B seems to have, embarrassingly, become my limit- getting past this is my aim this season and I feel like I can do it now. Worked Teck Crack Direct at the end- I didn't feel far off this.

M-Th "Romantic" Holyhead-based weekend with ever-patient girlfriend  , much of which was occupied with what I'm going to ostentatiously term "location scouting". Lots of hiking and scrambling about in inadvisable places (including those terrifying slopes above Gogarth Main Cliff  ) carrying a variety of climbing and filmmaking gear in a variety of adverse weather conditions (I'd never been blown off my feet by the wind before Tuesday, when it happened four times ) - this certainly falls into the category of bulding site/ army fitness, which I've learnt is largely useless training for rock climbing but probably is good for big walling/ Alpinism and is definitely good  for "adventure filmmaking". Mixed results scouting-wise but definite progress- need to go back soon with a lot more rope!  Ate loads of Creme Eggs and food in odd but cheap North Wales restaurants.

F- Rest. Battered!

Sa- Rest.

Su- Rest. Well, walked into town and back.

Feel like I'm seeing improvement in bouldering at last. More light means I'm getting more interested in the prospect of routes though- hopefully get some success in each before the film takes over.

[Nibile]

Are those Brothel Creepers Nibs?!

Just some Nike Air Rift!

[rodma]

well done 36

Weight 61.1kg

Mon: wieghts: slightly heavier on the deadlifts but the same on c&p
Tue: campus at home
Wed: Weights: same as Monday, only slightly heavier again on deadlifts. this is the first session where i haven't let the weights touch down between any of the reps (within sets, not between), feels pretty awesome.
Thur: campus at home
Fri: rest
Sat: wall session: reasonably good, but tire quickly
sun: wall session: this one was just for a bit of mileage and to get the wee one used to letting us take turns to climb, prior to getting back outside with him.