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Venues unsuitable for night climbing (Read 30814 times)

shark

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Venues unsuitable for night climbing
February 03, 2016, 11:03:03 am
Oh and to be honest I've never agreed with climbing in the dark in sensitive areas, or climbing in banned areas. Spoils it for everyone except the selfish person there doing the climbing. Maybe that's for another thread tho



Worth highlighting areas that are unsuitable for climbing at night due to sensitivity of access:

To my knowledge:

Roche Abbey
Rowtor
Craig Y Longridge


Others...

lagerstarfish

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#1 Re: Venues unsuitable for night climbing
February 03, 2016, 11:04:47 am
the other place near Rubicon?

shark

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#2 Re: Venues unsuitable for night climbing
February 03, 2016, 11:08:10 am
the other place near Rubicon?

 :-\ Parking is away from the village and it is as hidden as it gets down there. Cant see it being any more of an issue than during the day.

dave

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#3 Re: Venues unsuitable for night climbing
February 03, 2016, 11:15:02 am
X should be fine as it's not visible from anywhere.

eatswood would probably be unwise.

T_B

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#4 Re: Venues unsuitable for night climbing
February 03, 2016, 11:42:58 am
I've thought about and decided not to climb at Rubicon before as it just feels a little too 'urban'. Maybe I'm being overly concerned, but I think it is slightly overlooked by some of the houses above?

I have no qualms going to X at night for the reasons stated above.

andy_e

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#5 Re: Venues unsuitable for night climbing
February 03, 2016, 12:03:43 pm
Bits of Blackwell Dale on private land which are visible from the road (e.g. Blackout)?

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#6 Re: Venues unsuitable for night climbing
February 03, 2016, 12:14:17 pm
Secconded on eatswood. I opted not to go there the other day after realising that your lights can be seen.

Doylo

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#7 Re: Venues unsuitable for night climbing
February 03, 2016, 12:26:54 pm
Tremeirchion, North Wales.

Bonjoy

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#8 Re: Venues unsuitable for night climbing
February 03, 2016, 01:53:05 pm
Oops posted in other thread before seeing this. I agree eatswood is a bad idea.
Any small bouldering venue on private land where the access is an unknown and you are likely to be seen if night climbing, are a bad idea. Some examples - Filthy Q, Hilltop Boulder, Crich Tor, Black Garden, Leashaw Brow.

highrepute

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#9 Re: Venues unsuitable for night climbing
February 03, 2016, 02:18:35 pm
When does night time begin? I wouldn't do this at sensitive crag but I'd go to a crag visible to houses like Rubicon or Curbar at 5 and leave around 7 in the winter. I'd feel bad climbing late in to the evening/night.

Johnny Brown

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#10 Re: Venues unsuitable for night climbing
February 03, 2016, 02:46:55 pm
It is lights that are the issue. If you need lights, its time to go home.

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#11 Re: Venues unsuitable for night climbing
February 03, 2016, 03:06:05 pm
Anyone know the deal with Broomgrove?

I guess you don't need a lamp in the dark, but would it be antisocial to go there at say 6.30/7pm in the winter when its dark?

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#12 Re: Venues unsuitable for night climbing
February 03, 2016, 04:46:47 pm
Once went at 1 am. Nobody called the police so probably ok

shark

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#13 Re: Venues unsuitable for night climbing
February 03, 2016, 04:51:40 pm
It is lights that are the issue. If you need lights, its time to go home.

One of the better innovations IMO for the time starved and conditions hungry.

Johnny Brown

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#14 Re: Venues unsuitable for night climbing
February 03, 2016, 05:16:32 pm
Sure, although I'm inclined to think a list of suitable locations might be shorter.

Jim

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#15 Re: Venues unsuitable for night climbing
February 03, 2016, 07:09:12 pm
I've thought about and decided not to climb at Rubicon
wise words, I once went climbing there, total rubbish   :whistle:

andyd

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#16 Re: Venues unsuitable for night climbing
February 03, 2016, 08:23:15 pm
It is lights that are the issue. If you need lights, its time to go home.

One of the better innovations IMO for the time starved and conditions hungry.
:agree:
Plenty of suitable venues

abarro81

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#17 Re: Venues unsuitable for night climbing
February 03, 2016, 09:33:11 pm
It is lights that are the issue. If you need lights, its time to go training home.

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#18 Re: Venues unsuitable for night climbing
February 03, 2016, 10:43:31 pm
Interesting subject and needs to be discussed.

I think it boils down to a bit of common sense; if it doesn't feel right then thats probably a good indication as any. However, I think there are lots of venues that are suitable, especially the more urban crags or no privately owned, that already suffer from light pollution for instance Caley, Ilkley etc.

I would advise against climbing on open moorlands, as you will probabaly look like you are poaching!

I would be interested to know peoples opinions on a few things;

- Would it be best to turn your lights off when resting to reduce light pollution, or would lots of flashing on and off light be wrong?
- What effect do lights have on wildlife?
- Is it any different to MTB or running in the dark? Are there any restrictions associated with these activities?
- Groups sizes and amount of lights?






TobyD

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#19 Re: Venues unsuitable for night climbing
February 03, 2016, 11:16:19 pm
It is lights that are the issue. If you need lights, its time to go training home on holiday.

peewee

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#20 Re: Venues unsuitable for night climbing
February 03, 2016, 11:26:30 pm

- Is it any different to MTB or running in the dark? Are there any restrictions associated with these activities?


Never thought about that, from years of doing night rides especially in large groups I've never come across anybody thats had any issues night riding, suppose if its a PROW then there aren't any time restrictions as to when you can ride on on them (besides Snowdon). There has been the odd farmer coming out to see what the mass of lights is but once they realise what it is theres no issue.

TobyD

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#21 Re: Venues unsuitable for night climbing
February 04, 2016, 09:27:59 am
Oh and to be honest I've never agreed with climbing in the dark in sensitive areas, or climbing in banned areas. Spoils it for everyone except the selfish person there doing the climbing. Maybe that's for another thread tho
Others...

I've been told off for night soloing at Stanage with a headtorch before (a few years ago) by a ranger. he did say he'd been about to contact mountain rescue, which is a valid point, though I guessed at the time it was probably just an exaggeration to try and dissuade me from doing it again because he thought it was a stupid thing to do.

Johnny Brown

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#22 Re: Venues unsuitable for night climbing
February 04, 2016, 09:39:32 am
It doesn't take long to work out what a line of moving lights are: runners or bikes. And they'll be gone soon anyway.

A light static at the base of a crag is going to intrigue all but the tiny minority of folk in the know. The average landowner is going to assume either an accident, poaching/ sheep theft or camping, and bear in mind that camping is banned most places south of the Scottish border. Even at somewhere like Burbage (council owned, CRoW designated) camping is banned. The rangers around the Eastern Edges know what is going on now, but there was/is some consternation; if they ignore all lights they may be missing other goings on, inc accidents.

In less enlightened areas that information is going be harder to get across. And it's always going to be a fairly niche activity. And yes some landowners/ other users will be concerned about the effect on wildlife/game. I would argue it should be minimal - at the time of year most lamping is done the nights are long, birds are not nesting, plants are dormant, badgers etc semi-hibernating. But the opposite argument is easily made - NE's move to designate some of their nature reserves under CRoW was met with fierce opposition 'can't we leave ANY space just for nature?'

Most of peak limestone crags are on nature reserves, with access at most delicate. Crag X for example is in an area considered so important no access is permitted. We have negotiated low-key permissive access on very careful terms including not publicising it. I doubt very much that night climbing there is 'fine as it's not visible from anywhere'. If it's properly dark I'd be very surprised if a light in that normally pitch-dark valley wasn't obvious from the road.

In general urban fringe venues in public ownership should be fine, but I'd be wary about most others. And wherever you go don't be surprised to be challenged, be polite etc.

shark

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#24 Re: Venues unsuitable for night climbing
February 04, 2016, 12:21:41 pm
I remember one of the farmers overlooking the Stride being frustrated by after-dark sessions, although also accepting of access rights. I've always steered clear out of respect, although I know the place is quite popular.

When the random chipping happened a while back, this and the massive evidence of chalk were the two things that came to mind first. In many ways the chalk is more of a problem (I remember seeing a post on an archaeological forum asking who was putting white graffiti on the stones at Cratcliffe), although I guess the use of lamps is another thing that can contribute to a general impression of climbers being antisocial.

 

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