[36chambers]

Hope everyone's had a good week (I'm assuming anyone is allowed to start these??)

Anyway,

STG: Exorcist short 8a
MTG: Yorkshire Classics
LTG: 8B

M: Depot. AnPow x4, AeroCap cool down
T: Ab ripper x
W: Lamp session on Red Baron Roof. Couldn’t feel my feet. Seems like just one hard, could be a goer.
T: AnCap x3 on the 50 board, failing on the 3rd set, a wee bit tired.   
F: rest
S: Almscliff. First proper session on Exorcist short. Such a good problem. Very surprised to do it from the DBS arete, and it didn’t feel too bad. Although the first 3 moves may make all the difference. I think I’m turning into a one trick roof pony. I love that bit of rock.   
S: Quick hit at Almscliff before the sunset. Good session, although most things were wet. Finally got round to trying Dreamland 7a+, sent starting with the higher holds. I don’t know whether this is kosher? Excellent moves regardless.

All in all, a pretty good week.

[Dolly]

M Felt a bit tired from the shed session the day before so worked and did the easiest ciruit on the Foundry Furnace board (7a) More moves than I usually do in a whole session. Started to feel a bit ill in the evening so slept a lot.
T Didnt manage a full day at work
W Felt a little better. 8 easy routes in the gym at night
T Beastmaking
F Foundry. Easy traversing to warm up then core on kettlebells, balance board, floor etc.
S Although the weather wasn't great went to Froggatt. I wanted to have a look at Hot Toddy but it was wet. Did Glamourpuss on the pinacle then lots of laps on Tody's playground - just climbing for fun cos I was enjoying it
S Gentle 10 min run with youngest daughter in (her) Frozen baselayer suit then core at the gym later. Swiss ball, VPR and TRX


Not a bad week but feel like Ididnt get in one really hard session

[ashtond6]

Mtg 7b+/7c
Ltg 8a / 7B

Terrible week climbing wise. Not helped by parties I had to go too and the weather!

M - rest
T - good session at the works, flashed a white and v close to some other hard stuff. May 7A max
W - rest and bmc meeting
T - partner bailed so rest
F - rest
S - giant hangover, Burbage West for 6B among others. Still can't do a 6A there!
S - went to stanage end and stoney, both soaking wet all day

[T_B]

85Kg

M -
T - School pm. Mainly 30deg then re-tweaked finger crimping. Did some rings exercises.
W -
T - Foundry lunch. LI Aerocap.
F - Foundry lunch. One arm deadhangs with assistance on big holds. Front two pockets. Basically worked around left ring finger, everything fully open.
S - Brief repeaters session, managed 3 x 6 x 7 front 3. No issues fully open. A few rings exercises.
S - Re-opened fell running account, Kinder Downfall from Snake Pass and back. Obviously very muddy but reasonable visibility along the northern edges. Enjoyed it but knackered.

Careful finger management continues. Been giving it the cold water treatment all week. Will try not to get carried away this week at the Schoolroom.

[Wood FT]

mon - Works, did the yellow 7b and got to the down climb on the 7b/+. Spent rest of session on the comp wall and faded fast
Tue - Foundry Wave, hadn't recovered from previous day so skin not feeling great, did a few new ones by skin of teeth
Wed - Stanage, friend over from France. New tick in form of Crescent Arete right-hand which I'd never spent enough time on before. Had a good few days to think on it and agree with Nige that it might be the best problem on Grit. End of day session on West Side Story, tried new beta and touched 3rd side pull, happy.
Thu - Foundry routes, 10 routes 6b+ - 7a. Sandbagged myself onto a 7c and climbed well, might try and red point it for the novelty (Foundry 7c = 8a+ right?)
Fri -
Sat - Burbage North, climbed Small is Beautiful after micro-siege, hadn't warmed up properly and pulled something in the ribs. end of day on WSS, got up to 3rd side pull but couldn't hold it.
Sun - Injured, walked into town and back to pick up new day-glo harness, 6 miles.

The frustrating weather at the start of the week meant no mopping up of boulder tick list. Really enjoyed the foundry routes but have lost structure this week. A shame about the injury due to being unprofessional but it'll go away soon. Need to reverse weight gain and rein in the drink, heaviest in few years.

[tomtom]

Cheers for kicking off 36C.

Guy - I can give you some sneaky 3rd sidepull WSS microbeta...

10:12

M: Depot

T: One of the Wiltons - it was damp - I may also have Monday and Tuesday mixed up! Flailing around on a 7A I can't get close to

W: Drive Manc > Newcastle > Hull. Felt horribly hungover all day (no booze the night before..) (rest day!)

Th: Work etc.. drive back to Manc late. (rest day!)

Fr: Depot.

Sa: A.N.Other Wilton. Or might have been the same one. Only one bit of dry rock - which unfortunately contained the problem I was trying and couldnt do Friends house in the evening for Curry and Beer. Had headache all day Dreaded potential hangover..

Su: No hangover! Went to driving range with friend and his Son. Re-affirm that I (a) am really shit at golf (b) don't like it. Back home and Depot. Good scene. Only popped in for a quick hour session ended up being there for 2 and a bit. Good to bump into a few folk I know (from here and elsewhere).

I seem to be successfully managing a tiny bit of golfers elbow in my left arm.. using the Tom Randall lie on front stretch and some finger antagonistics seems to be working well. Also mixing up my bouldering - so just one session of mainly overhanging shizz per week - then the rest a mix of fingers and less steep stuff. Also tried a new warm up routine at the wall - of bounding up easy problems (missing loads of holds - big moves etc..) then downclimbing them using every single hold. Well it felt different anyway

[duncan]

STG: rehab. finger
MTG: tbc according to finger recovery
LTG: the usual LH+F.

M - Westway: 6 easy routes with buddy-tape only.
T - Shoulder routine, dips, biceps etc.
W - Shoulder routine
T - Westway: 10 easy routes with buddy-tape only.
F - Shoulder routine, dips, biceps etc. Inclined pull-ups.
S - Shoulder routine, dips, biceps etc. Finger swollen and hurty.
S - Country walk. Finger still swollen and hurty.

Finger has had a setback. Too much, too soon, probably. Back to supportive exercises only for a few days, quite getting into these. Then perhaps some foot-on campus board work so I can be sure I’m not twisting the finger even slightly.

[andy_e]

Finally got round to trying Dreamland 7a+, sent starting with the higher holds. I don’t know whether this is kosher?

How high exactly?

[tomtom]

Finally got round to trying Dreamland 7a+, sent starting with the higher holds. I don’t know whether this is kosher?

How high exactly?

French start is de-rigeur..

[Nibile]

Power Club
STG - board projects.

Mon - board climbing. Brilliant session despite starting a bit tired. Again, incredible progress on the project. A tactical approach that borders the pathological perfectionism.
Tue - rest.
Wed - board climbing. Tired, bad vibes, mind not there. Useless and dangerous session.
Thu - climbing class. Very tired, fingers achey.
Fri - rest. Visited Motor Bike Expo in Verona. Lots of beer and food. And tits. Oh, and bikes.
Sat - 100 cleans, 50 snatch pulls. Hard.
Sun - BM max hangs. Back3, monos. Not bad despite not doing this session for ages. Protocol 4 x2. Phew!

Mixed week. On Monday I was on fire and I did my project, albeit with a big dab. It felt mega hard and I was super happy despite the dab. I wanted to get a clean ascent, so on Wednesday I tried it again and I was miles away. Fell on the second move. My mind was totally elsewhere. I will try it again soon but if I feel out place again I'll take the dab and move on, it was the first session which I didn't enjoy.
Felt a bit burnt out during the week, it was good to take it easy for once.

Pics from the bike expo:
IMG-20160122-WA0004 by Nibile, on Flickr

IMG-20160122-WA0005 by Nibile, on Flickr

IMG-20160122-WA0007 by Nibile, on Flickr

[cheque]

New tick in form of Crescent Arete right-hand which I'd never spent enough time on before. Had a good few days to think on it and agree with Nige that it might be the best problem on Grit. End of day session on West Side Story, tried new beta and touched 3rd side pull, happy.

Sounds like an awesome day. I need to get on CA left-hand.

STG-7s/ Extremes on grit this season. Wall of Horrors before it's too hot again.
MTG- 7b/+ in 2016
LTG- 8a

M- Right shoulder feeling a bit tweaky. Probably due to doing a pullup while freezing cold on the bar over the Rivelin carpark entrance on Sunday with my pad and camera gear-filled rucksack on my back. Did some wide pushups anyway.

W-F Pushups possibly another bad idea- shoulder sore Wednesday and Thursday. Rested Friday just to make sure it was better.

Sa- Shoulder fine. Stanage Plantation- a bit damp. Did lots of easyish problems, either ones I'd done before very quickly (mainly first go) or ones that had eluded me before quickly. One of these was Crescent Arete- the first highball I've done for years. That might not sound impressive as it's both easy and I'd done it before, but I've had head issues above a certain height that I now feel like I can control again. Didn't do anything hard despite lots of trying.

Su- Walk around local nature reserve.

Easier week this week, largely due to shoulder issue. Still haven't succeeded on a satisfyingly-hard boulder problem this season but I'm climbing better every time I go out.

[fatneck]

Good stuff people!

Weight on 18.01.16 - 14st 9

Mon - Pilates and Hangar sesh. Did lots of Friday's comp problems and surprised myself by flashing a lot of them!
Tue - Walked to and from work
Wed - Three day first aid training at work = half hour lunches and late finishes = no lunch time training so walk to work every day
Thur - As above but Hangar sesh with wife, she climbs well, I complete a few reds/comp probs I didn't manage last time. Sore left elbow!
Fri - As Wed
Sat - Busy with family including roller disco where I manage to fall on my arse/elbow = sore right elbow!
Sun - Fishing in the morning (first time this year!) then park followed by Hangar sesh with the munchkin. Didn't do much climbing. Beers with ageing scouse climbers in the evening but only three and a relatively early night.

Not the best week training wise but nice to get some regular indoor action. Weighed in at 14st 8 this morning which is 4lbs off in 4 weeks = on target!

Birthday this Wednesday so likely to be eating a bit more than usual this week! 

[csl]

STG
V8 indoors
get out on rock
book summer sport climbing trip - progress, should be booked this week.

MTG
7c in Siurana

LTG
8a

Mon-Sunday. Rest Week.

Had one session of easy aerocap.

[36chambers]

Finally got round to trying Dreamland 7a+, sent starting with the higher holds. I don’t know whether this is kosher?

How high exactly?

Same place as the legend himself (@ 4:30)


(I may have used two pads so I could reach the holds)

French start is de-rigeur..

French start with LH on, slapping up with the RH? that shouldn't be a problem  

[andy_e]

That start is perfectly cromulent.

[Luke Owens]

Week 3 of my training plan. Wrist not as bad this week.

M: Lunch - 50 Crunches
30 Side Crunches (15 each side)
5 x 5sec L-Hangs
3 x 10 Knee tucks
3 x 10 Dorsal Raises
5 x 5sec L-Hangs
3 x 10 Knee tucks
50 Crunches

T: Lunch - 3 x 10 Press ups
6 x 5 Off-set pull ups (Alternate arms)
3 x 10 Shoulder Raises (5kg)
3 x 15sec L-Hangs
3 x 10 Dorsal Raises

Eve: Plas Power - Got there late and the wall was rammed with a scout group so didn't get to train properly until about 20 minutes after my warm-up. Felt like a rushed session, would of liked more rest between Boards/AnCap.

20min traverse ARC warm-up

20' Board - Did some warm-up problems up to 6B+. Set a hard crimp problem and managed after about 15 minutes, around 6C+. Came up with a problem/moves that might help with Left Wall, hard to replicate the starting moves but got a rough idea of holds to use.

45' Board - Repeated 6B+ and fell off the top of the 7A again, worked the moves on a new project and tried to scope out some more. Finding it quite difficult to come up with new projects on the board but completely forgetting the fact that a move being too hard is a good thing.

AnCap - Rushed this a bit as ran out of time:

14 moves x 4 (2mins rest between reps)
14 moves x 4 (1min rest between reps)

Powered out on rep 8 at the end of the circuit.

Need to come up with a new harder circuit next week, the current one is getting easier (can rep with less rest) and unbalanced in that it seems to tax the right arm a lot more than the left... Wrist feeling a bit better, avoided any twisiting/savage pinching with the left hand.

W: Rest

T: Cave - Greasy conditions but a good session - Got a more efficient sequence for the very end which makes it less powerful. Moves on the rest of it felt easier again, managed to get ~6 moves in the 6 times I tried it from the start. The problem seems to be my beta when I hit these moves is really inefficient as I end up hanging around too long to move my feet a lot to do one hand move only to move them back up to where they were. Spent the end of the session trying to figure out a better sequence for this bit. Found a way that keeps the feet high but the hand move is harder but I can keep climbing quicker. This will hopefully change things next time!

F: Rest

S: Penmaenbach Boulder - Short  3 hour session, warmed up flashing a 6A+ and a 6B then did "Lo Pan" (6C+) 3rd go, then the stand start to "Jack Burton" (~6C+) in a handful of goes. Next I did the "Wing Kong" (7A) trav in about 10 goes, trutchy but satisfying! Finished off the sesh trying the sit to "Jack Burton" and the 7B+ prow but didn't get anywhere on either. Felt like I'd done a lot in a short amount of time.

S: Rest

[filz]

M. isometric weight training, front lever progression, handstands
T. System and board climbing. Set 2 new problems
W. Late at work. Some explosive pull ups, weighted pull ups, headstands
T. Board session. Climbed some test problems and some tries at the new ones. Felt a little tired.
F. Body weight and rings: push ups, L-sits, tuck planche, front lever progression, ring rows, ring dips
S. fb max hangs
S. Body weight easy session. Loaded carries, squat, dragon flags, L-sits, headstand

Good week overall. I changed my fingerboard routine since I wasn't progressing any more. I added weight on bigger holds. I still have to find the right weight per hold/prehension.

[webbo]

Mon. Nothing other than limping round.
Tue. More limping ending up,with foot in pot.
Wed. Now on crutches and another pot.
Thu. Weights and dead hanging.
Fri. Nothing.
Sat. Weights crunches, lying cycling,seated shoulder press, seated dumbbell shoulder press, lateral raises, shrugs,bench press, dumbbell bench press, flys, bent over rows, dumbbell bent over rows,lying tricep press, lying dumbbell tricep press, bench dips, preacher curls, seated dumbbell curls, seated alternate dumbbell curls, golfers elbow wrist curls.
Sun. Crunches, lying cycling, lying body lowers, lying leg raises, planks. Dead hangs
3 sets 4 fingers, front 3 back 3 8 secs + 4 lbs 4 fingers bottom crimp 3 ste 6 secs + 4lbs
Front 2 middle 2 3 sets each hold 7 8 secs + 4 lbs 35 degree slower 3 sets 6 secs + 4 lbs
2 sets of repeaters using big slots with pencils in the back to make them smaller + 4 lbs.

[rodma]

M: C&P and Deadlifts at home
T: wall session with campus start, pressup and pullup finish
W: C&P and Deadlifts at home again
T: wall session with campus start, pressup and pullup finish (tired, but better than Tuesday)
F: Rest
S: Wall session, no campus, just trying problems. feel ok, but am a good few weeks away from anything approximating full power, niggles depending that is.
S: rest

A decent week

i can just 147, but it doesn't feel very clever, so am currently overcooking/overpowering 146 and 136. once the shoulder feels good I'll risk fuller extension on my left arm.

i am weak at weights, but it has been a couple of years since I've spent any time on them. I'm also trying to have my shoulders back and down throughout the C&P which is the first time I have bothered with form really. it makes them much harder and fells tentatively much more beneficial (to climbing)

[tomtom]

French start with LH on, slapping up with the RH? that shouldn't be a problem

Indeedy. UT makes a reet pigs ear of that start

[Falling Down]

Not much at all last week.  My parents left their colds behind after a weekend visit.  My left shoulder is a bit tweaky after my skating injury over the Summer...

M - Circuits at The Westway.  Left proper pumped.
T - Rest/Cold
W - Rest/Cold
T - Circuits
F - Rest
S/S - Nowt of note other than a gentle row.

Not a great week, but I'm off to Chorro this Thursday for four days.  Can't wait to climb outdoors again.

[the_dom]

Mon: Hangboard - 3/3/3
Tues: Weights - deadlifts, kettlebell swings and presses. Hike in the forest in the evening.
Wed: Hangboard - 5/3/1 followed by some bouldering.
Thurs: Weights - deadlifts and kettlebell swings
Fri: Hangboard - 5/3/1 and then 3 hours of standup paddleboarding in canals with all around surf wad Chris Bertish for a work do.
Sat: Post-work do hangover and desultory surf.
Sun: Not the best day of bouldering ever.

Decent week. Weight is still stubbornly in the upper-80s.

[ashtond6]

Sat - Burbage North, climbed Small is Beautiful after micro-siege, hadn't warmed up properly and pulled something in the ribs. end of day on WSS, got up to 3rd side pull but couldn't hold it

Must have seen you Saturday, I was climbing to the right of the big group on West side story... hanging hanging hanging so badly!

[Muenchener]

STG (January): sharkathon; onsight 6b+ on plastic
MTG (2016): Redpoint 7b
LTG (<= 5 years): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.

Sharkathon Day 18: Still feeling very much under the weather. Just about managed half an hour shoulder prehab / antagonist stuff.
Sharkathon Day 19: Beastmaker max hangs. Good session, pb on small campus rung by 4kg.
Sharkathon Day 20: Wall, Boulderwelt. Less weak than last week.
Weighted pull-ups 4 x 3 x 17.5kgs
Sharkathon Day 21: Half hour shoulder mobility & forearm antagonists
Sharkathon Day 22: Wall, Boulderwelt. Sharkathon quota session, wouldn't have bothered otherwise.
Bodyweight rows, tgu's, i-y-t's afterwards: probably this was actual valuable part of the session.
Sharkathon Day 23: Wall, Gilching. 11 routes (attempts) to 6c+. Good session. Didn't onsight a 6b+, but fell off two whilst confronting my fear of juggy roofs. yyfy.
Sharkathon Day 24: Two hours hiking in the woods with gratuitously heavy rucksack - base aerobic training for when it's too icy to bike and I don't have time to go hillwalking.

[TobyD]

M - board and rings; tweaked right shoulder slightly on rings
T - 35 minute run
W - wave problems, fun but not too productive; guarding right shoulder
T - wave problems, long boulders - hard ish 12 move x 5  on board, shoulder felt mostly better
F - 30 minute run
S - short boulders, board
S - wave problems, easier 12 move problem on board, pockets and slopers, 10 reps with one minute rests, 20 minute aero