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New hardest boulder in Font (Read 17336 times)

jwi

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New hardest boulder in Font
January 20, 2016, 02:24:08 pm
Guillaume Glairon Mondet has put up a new boulder in Rocher Gréau, “Le Pied à Coulisse”, for which he propose 8C+ as he feels it is the hardest problem he's done in Fontainebleau.

Source:

http://guillaumeglaironmondet.blogspot.fr/2016/01/le-pied-coulisse-8c-first-ascent.html

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jwi

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#2 Re: New hardest boulder in Font
January 20, 2016, 02:28:23 pm
The slab does look like the hardest part....  ;D

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#3 Re: New hardest boulder in Font
January 20, 2016, 02:33:09 pm
Good 3 stripe action there, I have the same pair, much baggier of course.

What a weird combination of power bouldering and slab bouldering. It looks like a bit of dreamtime into a little perculiar into piece of mind. English E6 7c maybe? :D

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#4 Re: New hardest boulder in Font
January 20, 2016, 03:50:23 pm
I reckon you'd have got very long odds on the hardest problem in font being put up in a pair of Mad Rocks, especially one with a footsy crux. I thought all Adidas athletes were sponsored by 5:10 as they now own them

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#5 Re: New hardest boulder in Font
January 20, 2016, 04:15:26 pm
looks like a really good problem as well

iwasmexican

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#6 Re: New hardest boulder in Font
January 20, 2016, 04:17:26 pm
looks like a really good problem as well

definitely the best roof in the forest

JamieG

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#7 Re: New hardest boulder in Font
January 20, 2016, 05:19:05 pm
I looked at google translate and it suggests Le Pied à Coulisse means 'the foot slide' but an image search suggests it means 'calipers' (like the ones engineers use to measure pipe diameter etc.). Any french speakers shed any light on the name? Is it a play on words?

Lovely looking problem. Nice contrasting sections. Burly roof, awkward mantel, sketchy slab. It's weird that it doesn't look horrendous. Maybe he just is that strong.

jwi

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#8 Re: New hardest boulder in Font
January 20, 2016, 05:39:17 pm
Le Pied à Coulisse = Calpier. Coulisse can be a sliding door. If I'd be forced to give a figurative translation I'd use “The Sliding scale”

JamieG

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#9 Re: New hardest boulder in Font
January 20, 2016, 06:41:24 pm
Thanks jwi, that's interesting. I'm always intrigued about how problem names translates, since so many rely on word play and cultural references.

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#10 Re: New hardest boulder in Font
January 20, 2016, 10:29:44 pm
"J'ai décidé de nommer ce bloc ainsi, car pour moi, ce bloc consiste à tenir le pied gauche tout le long du bloc, et ensuite se glisser (coulisser) dans le réta...
I decide to name this problem like that (Caliper, of "sliding foot" in french, go wonder...), because for me, this problem is just about keeping the left foot for almost the whole climb, and after that sliding around the rock for the mantle..."
From his blog.

galpinos

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#11 Re: New hardest boulder in Font
January 21, 2016, 10:23:52 am
......' but an image search suggests it means 'calipers' (like the ones engineers use to measure pipe diameter etc.). Any french speakers shed any light on the name? Is it a play on words?

They're called Vernier Calipers. (I'm a piping engineer.....)

erm, sam

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#12 Re: New hardest boulder in Font
January 21, 2016, 11:49:53 am
Have you got some really boss ones? All carbon fibre with titanium contact points?

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#13 Re: New hardest boulder in Font
January 21, 2016, 12:26:54 pm
I guess he's referring to the fact that his left foot stays planted basically the whole time while he's "sliding" in and out on his left leg to mantle, a bit like the aforementioned calipers? Wicked problem. The blog post was a nice workout for my French comprehension, too. Just within my ability to read without resorting to Google translate  :smartass:

Doylo

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#14 Re: New hardest boulder in Font
January 21, 2016, 05:39:36 pm
Potential hardest problem in the world deserves to be in Font.

ghisino

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#15 Re: New hardest boulder in Font
January 21, 2016, 07:42:41 pm
looks really cool.

funny that the top out slab doesn't look overly easy when considering the consequences of a fall...

tomtom

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#16 Re: New hardest boulder in Font
January 21, 2016, 09:49:09 pm

looks really cool.

funny that the top out slab doesn't look overly easy when considering the consequences of a fall...

Also - why climb up all that horrendous looking ankle breaking slab and then scuttle off to the arete at the end?? I'd have scuttled off as soon as after the mantle as possible :D

mrjonathanr

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#17 Re: New hardest boulder in Font
January 21, 2016, 09:55:00 pm
I'd have scuttled off as soon as after the mantle as possible :D
The earth's outer layer? Or the mantel, from mantelpiece?

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#18 Re: New hardest boulder in Font
January 21, 2016, 10:07:46 pm

I'd have scuttled off as soon as after the mantle as possible :D
The earth's outer layer? Or the mantel, from mantelpiece?

I'm hopless at schpelling.

Danny

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#19 Re: New hardest boulder in Font
January 22, 2016, 12:09:28 am
Looks genuinely amazing—bit like a less good version of The Angel's Share. I'd have called it Jumpin on a Coccinelle. Fiver on a Jimmy Webb repeat. 

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#20 Re: New hardest boulder in Font
January 22, 2016, 01:45:22 am
your on but my fiver says Nalle gets there first

mrjonathanr

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#21 Re: New hardest boulder in Font
January 22, 2016, 07:25:40 am
You should have asked a geographer tomtom, they know their stuff. :)

r-man

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#22 Re: New hardest boulder in Font
January 22, 2016, 12:29:21 pm

I'd have scuttled off as soon as after the mantle as possible :D
The earth's outer layer? Or the mantel, from mantelpiece?

I'm hopless at schpelling.

Both words have the same root, and some dictionaries (American as far as I can see) suggest they are interchangeable, though mantel is still the norm. So getting it wrong is a pretty minor mistake, not as bad as saying aluminum, and nowhere near as bad as heal-hooking. Say three heel Marys and you'll be absolved.

https://sesquiotic.wordpress.com/2011/11/14/mantle-mantel/


Also - why climb up all that horrendous looking ankle breaking slab and then scuttle off to the arete at the end??

 Direct finish still to be done...

benno

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#23 Re: New hardest boulder in Font
January 22, 2016, 12:31:46 pm
Also - why climb up all that horrendous looking ankle breaking slab and then scuttle off to the arete at the end?? I'd have scuttled off as soon as after the mantle as possible :D

You'd have to have your industrial-spec blinkers on to get to that break on an 8c+ and not think you were done, non?

SA Chris

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#24 Re: New hardest boulder in Font
January 22, 2016, 01:54:34 pm
It's because the French are so environmentally conscious that he didn't want to clear harm that patch of lichen.

 

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