[jwi]

Guillaume Glairon Mondet has put up a new boulder in Rocher Gréau, “Le Pied à Coulisse”, for which he propose 8C+ as he feels it is the hardest problem he's done in Fontainebleau.

Source:

http://guillaumeglaironmondet.blogspot.fr/2016/01/le-pied-coulisse-8c-first-ascent.html

[Fiend]

GG GuiGui!

http://www.epictv.com/videos/film-makers/mel-sandozs-epic-series/604211

[jwi]

The slab does look like the hardest part.... 

[Fiend]

Good 3 stripe action there, I have the same pair, much baggier of course.

What a weird combination of power bouldering and slab bouldering. It looks like a bit of dreamtime into a little perculiar into piece of mind. English E6 7c maybe? :D

[Teaboy]

I reckon you'd have got very long odds on the hardest problem in font being put up in a pair of Mad Rocks, especially one with a footsy crux. I thought all Adidas athletes were sponsored by 5:10 as they now own them

[lagerstarfish]

looks like a really good problem as well

[iwasmexican]

looks like a really good problem as well

definitely the best roof in the forest

[JamieG]

I looked at google translate and it suggests Le Pied à Coulisse means 'the foot slide' but an image search suggests it means 'calipers' (like the ones engineers use to measure pipe diameter etc.). Any french speakers shed any light on the name? Is it a play on words?

Lovely looking problem. Nice contrasting sections. Burly roof, awkward mantel, sketchy slab. It's weird that it doesn't look horrendous. Maybe he just is that strong.

[jwi]

Le Pied à Coulisse = Calpier. Coulisse can be a sliding door. If I'd be forced to give a figurative translation I'd use “The Sliding scale”

[JamieG]

Thanks jwi, that's interesting. I'm always intrigued about how problem names translates, since so many rely on word play and cultural references.

[Nibile]

"J'ai décidé de nommer ce bloc ainsi, car pour moi, ce bloc consiste à tenir le pied gauche tout le long du bloc, et ensuite se glisser (coulisser) dans le réta...
I decide to name this problem like that (Caliper, of "sliding foot" in french, go wonder...), because for me, this problem is just about keeping the left foot for almost the whole climb, and after that sliding around the rock for the mantle..."
From his blog.

[galpinos]

......' but an image search suggests it means 'calipers' (like the ones engineers use to measure pipe diameter etc.). Any french speakers shed any light on the name? Is it a play on words?

They're called Vernier Calipers. (I'm a piping engineer.....)

[erm, sam]

Have you got some really boss ones? All carbon fibre with titanium contact points?

[benno]

I guess he's referring to the fact that his left foot stays planted basically the whole time while he's "sliding" in and out on his left leg to mantle, a bit like the aforementioned calipers? Wicked problem. The blog post was a nice workout for my French comprehension, too. Just within my ability to read without resorting to Google translate 

[Doylo]

Potential hardest problem in the world deserves to be in Font.

[ghisino]

looks really cool.

funny that the top out slab doesn't look overly easy when considering the consequences of a fall...

[tomtom]

looks really cool.

funny that the top out slab doesn't look overly easy when considering the consequences of a fall...

Also - why climb up all that horrendous looking ankle breaking slab and then scuttle off to the arete at the end?? I'd have scuttled off as soon as after the mantle as possible :D

[mrjonathanr]

I'd have scuttled off as soon as after the mantle as possible :D

The earth's outer layer? Or the mantel, from mantelpiece?

[tomtom]

I'd have scuttled off as soon as after the mantle as possible :D

The earth's outer layer? Or the mantel, from mantelpiece?

I'm hopless at schpelling.

[Danny]

Looks genuinely amazing—bit like a less good version of The Angel's Share. I'd have called it Jumpin on a Coccinelle. Fiver on a Jimmy Webb repeat. 

[Moo]

your on but my fiver says Nalle gets there first

[mrjonathanr]

You should have asked a geographer tomtom, they know their stuff.

[r-man]

I'd have scuttled off as soon as after the mantle as possible :D

The earth's outer layer? Or the mantel, from mantelpiece?

I'm hopless at schpelling.

Both words have the same root, and some dictionaries (American as far as I can see) suggest they are interchangeable, though mantel is still the norm. So getting it wrong is a pretty minor mistake, not as bad as saying aluminum, and nowhere near as bad as heal-hooking. Say three heel Marys and you'll be absolved.

https://sesquiotic.wordpress.com/2011/11/14/mantle-mantel/

Also - why climb up all that horrendous looking ankle breaking slab and then scuttle off to the arete at the end??

 Direct finish still to be done...

[benno]

Also - why climb up all that horrendous looking ankle breaking slab and then scuttle off to the arete at the end?? I'd have scuttled off as soon as after the mantle as possible :D

You'd have to have your industrial-spec blinkers on to get to that break on an 8c+ and not think you were done, non?

[SA Chris]

It's because the French are so environmentally conscious that he didn't want to clear harm that patch of lichen.

[lagerstarfish]

I heard that VAT wasn't payable on lines that don't finish at the top of the crag/rock, so people often bob off to the side to save on completion fees

[tomtom]

I heard that VAT wasn't payable on lines that don't finish at the top of the crag/rock, so people often bob off to the side to save on completion fees

Thats Greece not France. In France you have to bob off to the side then spend 3 hours in a large anonymous government building visiting 5 separate desks 3 times in seemingly random order. 

[webbo]

Are you two in training for Sunday night at the palladium as the next great British double act.
I'll leave the name to others.

[lagerstarfish]

we're in training for heckling Shark

[tomtom]

we're in training for heckling Shark

I thought we were agreed, that we just turn our backs and be silent when he's climbing?

[mrjonathanr]

Are you two in training for Sunday night at the palladium as the next great British double act.
I'll leave the name to others.

I thought they had reformed that 80s pop-funk duo the Lager Tom Tom Club?

[tomtom]

There were some good gigs - but it all went wrong when Lagers asked for Unicorn scratchings on the rider.

[Danny]

your on but my fiver says Nalle gets there first

Early days yet Tom but, FYI, I take cash or BACS.

JW:

"Gui Gui,  I messed with your problem a little today before the rain came in.  Its quality!! Well done on the First Ascent!  Most definitely not 8A+.. and most definitely a good step above L'Alchimiste."

[Nibile]

your on but my fiver says Nalle gets there first

Early days yet Tom but, FYI, I take cash or BACS.

JW:

"Gui Gui,  I messed with your problem a little today before the rain came in.  Its quality!! Well done on the First Ascent!  Most definitely not 8A+.. and most definitely a good step above L'Alchimiste, WHICH I PATHED IN THREE TRIES AFTER GETTING OFF THE PLANE AFTER LEAVING THE NIGHT BEFORE FROM THE U.S...."

[Moo]

useless bloody Nalle

[Doylo]

Looks like Jimmy Webb and the barefoot dude repeated this today.

[Moo]

Fucking Nalle

[36chambers]

Looks like Jimmy Webb and the barefoot dude repeated this today.

Link? I can't seem to find any mention of it.

[andy popp]

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=70263

"Barefoot dude" has said he did an easier variant. He certainly looks to be climbing it in a different place in the picture in the UKC report.

[36chambers]

  thanks, I checked everywhere but UKC.

[Will Hunt]

thanks, I checked everywhere but UKC.

You'll go far.

[r-man]

thanks, I checked everywhere but UKC.

Also, barefoot man has a facebook page...

https://www.facebook.com/Charles.climbing/?fref=ts

[Danny]

Fucking Nalle

Pissing about in other sub-standard sandstone venues by the looks of it.

I'll admit I've been half tempted to try this whole footless gig at the wall, but then I remember my toes are decrepit twiglets, incapable of generating any force unless crammed into rock shoes.

Still, that a problem might be "impossible" unless barefoot is entertaining, and surely the exception proving the rule. The anti-kneepad purists are looking like rubbery, black kettles.

I wonder if anyone'll try it, or try to prove it can be done with shoes, the direct way?

[Nibile]

Jesusfuckingchrist, what are they doing to Font?
Different topouts just because Nalle could't be arsed to keep trying the original that he was very close to doing, then saying that what he managed is harder than what he didn't manage; grades of new problems given with an abacus; shoeless guys avoiding original lines because they aren't climbable without shoes.
They've turned a mecca into a circus.
Bloody useless people.

[jwi]

Still, that a problem might be "impossible" unless barefoot is entertaining, and surely the exception proving the rule.

It is not so uncommon that thin sandstone cracks are easier barefoot.

[dave]

Anything with a narrow foot slot, break, or crack, is potentially easier barefoot. Same goes for positive footholds you can hook your toes round/into that you can't in a rockshoe.

[Danny]

Still, that a problem might be "impossible" unless barefoot is entertaining, and surely the exception proving the rule.

It is not so uncommon that thin sandstone cracks are easier barefoot.

I realise this...although I'd imagine it's still *uncommon* even within this specific subset. 

[fried]

I personally think barefoot climbing should be banned in Font, I mean who wants some bonged up dudes foot cheese all over the holds. Admittedly he probably doesn't touch the same holds as me but  anyway....

[a dense loner]

I completely agree fried. Their spotter should whack the offending foot every time it comes into contact with the rock. Dirty bastards!

[Johnny Brown]

How many people have you coached up La Balance with the barefoot beta Dense?

[a dense loner]

Just to show how easy things are if you don't have a level playing field 

Bastard!

[SA Chris]

http://www.rockandice.com/climbing-news/jimmy-webb-and-charles-albert-repeat-the-fonts-hardest-climb


2 repeats, no downgrade.

[r-man]

 

That's not what it says.

Anyway, this just a rehash of the same things we've already read.

[SA Chris]

Sorry missed the "footnote"

[Fiend]

One repeated one downgrade