sa - Brean down..... Two tie ins on Tide Rising at the end of the day, soft 7c imo.......pretty soft grades
Quote from: GuyVG on January 18, 2016, 11:27:03 amsa - Brean down..... Two tie ins on Tide Rising at the end of the day, soft 7c imo.......pretty soft gradesSo the 7b+ there is actually 7c but the grades are pretty soft eh...? If the move to the sidepull from the pinch was troubling you that might explain it - most people I can remember seeing on it tend to find moving off that sidepull the redpoint crux. Really pulling in with tje feet makes the move to the sidepull a lot easier. I thought it was mid-hard 7b+ when I did it. There's certainly as hard or harder local ones out there
I was using hold 8 here .... haven't measured the depth, perhaps more than 25mm?
Quote from: habrich on January 18, 2016, 10:45:36 pmI was using hold 8 here .... haven't measured the depth, perhaps more than 25mm?Does anyone know what depth the lower crimps (hold 10) are? More specifically though is there any consensus about what sort of normal, non bevelled edge size they'd translate to? I'm trying to figure out how they compare to the 18mm depth that Maisch gives as a standard for half crimping.
I think the BM hold 10 is probably about half inch in depth, so about 12 or 13mm, and very rounded. 18mm depth is a small campus rung kinda size I think.
Aha you've got me there guv', I was going off the comment on the ukc description 'Generally thought to be F7c now'Yes that's the move, left heel to rock up to pinch then outside RF onto big foot, flick up into sidepull. Feels harder than Stone the Loach for example, though it is January. Looking forward to getting back, Storm Warning looks really good.
Quote from: Schnell on January 19, 2016, 11:40:22 amQuote from: habrich on January 18, 2016, 10:45:36 pmI was using hold 8 here .... haven't measured the depth, perhaps more than 25mm?Does anyone know what depth the lower crimps (hold 10) are? More specifically though is there any consensus about what sort of normal, non bevelled edge size they'd translate to? I'm trying to figure out how they compare to the 18mm depth that Maisch gives as a standard for half crimping.I measured them in the past and if I remember correctly they are 20mm or even more to the edge of the board. But being very rounded they are IMHO difficult to compare to non bevelled edges.I'll check this evening.
And I was wrong. Number 10 are 15mm
Quote from: T_B on January 19, 2016, 07:17:13 amOh right. I use 12 for middle two hangs.Have you tried the "8"? Do you think with the bigger hold your middle2 performance would be significantly closer to your half-crimp performance?(The "8" is about 30mm deep in total, but only about 25mm to where the bevel starts, so roughly in line with Steve Maisch's benchmark for middle2.)
Oh right. I use 12 for middle two hangs.
Quote from: GuyVG on January 19, 2016, 09:53:57 amAha you've got me there guv', I was going off the comment on the ukc description 'Generally thought to be F7c now'Yes that's the move, left heel to rock up to pinch then outside RF onto big foot, flick up into sidepull. Feels harder than Stone the Loach for example, though it is January. Looking forward to getting back, Storm Warning looks really good.I don't recall a heel to get to the pinch, but I definitely recall a right toe face on which let's you pull in and make the move to the sidepull pretty casual. I've heard lots of people argue it's 7c, potentially because they find it harder than the 7cs there and suggesting TR for the upgrade is better for the ego. Brean grading can be quite broken at times but its a nice crag. Better before people outside Bristol went there though the crowds definitely arrived with the rockfax. Storm warning is good, although my recommendation would be the variation, if its your grade (7c+, probably, with sw at 7c). Brean Topping has claimed the "straight up from the SW start" line so its written up as a locals eliminate but actually the moves are really good and its a relatively obvious line to take and you miss the gigantic rest on storm warning which breaks it up somewhat. I tried it a lot when I lived nearby and would still like to get back to finish it off
Quote from: jwi on January 19, 2016, 09:15:04 amI'm definitely a weakling (“hálfdrættingur”, why the Icelandic?) on most benchmarks listed http://www.stevemaischtraining.com/the-economics-of-training.htmlYeah, I found that terminology exceptionally irritating when I first read the article a few months ago. But having come back to it recently, and read about the mad Icelandic stone lifting tradition from where it is sourced, I forgive him. I suppose he was trying to not write "5.14 climber" or whatever.
I'm definitely a weakling (“hálfdrættingur”, why the Icelandic?) on most benchmarks listed http://www.stevemaischtraining.com/the-economics-of-training.html
Quote from: habrich on January 19, 2016, 08:19:55 pmQuote from: jwi on January 19, 2016, 09:15:04 amI'm definitely a weakling (“hálfdrættingur”, why the Icelandic?) on most benchmarks listed http://www.stevemaischtraining.com/the-economics-of-training.htmlYeah, I found that terminology exceptionally irritating when I first read the article a few months ago. But having come back to it recently, and read about the mad Icelandic stone lifting tradition from where it is sourced, I forgive him. I suppose he was trying to not write "5.14 climber" or whatever.Most 5.14- climbers that actually can climb are weaklings on most of those test I'd wager... I would pay good money to see a 9a climber I know dead hang an 18 mm edge with 50% of body weight dangling below him using the half crimp...
Interesting. I think if I added half-bodyweight then tried to hang middle2 I would end up with hearing loss from all my forearm tendons exploding ...
