[tomtom]

Evening all...
10:11-12

M: Managed to drag Prof Popp out onto some rock for the first time in ages - and went to Helsby. Made progress on Ron B's... good session. It will go...

Tu: Depot. Drive to Reading in the evening...

We: Meeting in Reading - was meant to be a rest day, but ended up going to the £££ Reading wall for a good 90 min session (this was my 6th day on...)

Th: Back to Manc - rest day.

Fr: Burbage North. Met up with Nai - pissed about on the Remergence area.. Despite being great conditions, Blind date was pointless trying as the holds were in the sun and squirmy.. messed about on the rib and remergence. Moved to the 7A to the left of these (the very small? or something like that?) managed this 3rd attempt - excellent problem. Nai left - and I had a play on Submergence - working the moves and doing it all to the crux throw. Powered out. Home.

Sa: Only planned a little session as was hoping for a Big Sunday out.. (I should have done it the other way around..) anyway, en route to the Depot decided to go to Brownstones instead as the weather looked so perfect (slightly overcast - cold - windless). Warmed up and managed Hanks Wall on the second or third attempt \o/ A bit of a nemesis this - been so close so many times over the last year. Good conditions helped, but I stood right up on the small top holds moving past the crimps (so they were at tummy height) and leaning in just allowed me to slowly move my RH round to the finishing edge. Really chuffed. Then went and failed repeatedly on Dezertion which just doesnt seem to suit me :D

Su: Sneurgh every where... decided to head up to Cows Mouth - as its high so would remain freezing - you park next to a main road so access is OK - and the walk in is a bit long but easy. Just worked on the low boulder - took about 20 min to brush off the snow.. then spent the next 90 min trying to keep warm and making my shoulders ache on these lowballs. Felt like I handnt really done enough in the last couple of days - so popped into the Depot on the way home for a quickfire 45 min session.



Upped my training frequency the last two weeks (6 days on 1 off) and using the Depot more. Starting to feel stronger and more - conditioned for want of a better word.

[ashtond6]

Had a take it easy week as my body was warning me

M Rest
T Rest
W Indoor routes and bouldering did some 6b/c on the steeper walls and onsighted some 6B+/cs
T rest
F rest
S stanton, I climbed well and it was a stunning day    I onsighted some 6B's, a 6C, did Brads Arete very quickly 6C+ and a great 7A, the plaque eliminate. Went quickly for me
S burbage West, did a 6A+ and got really close to Jasons mono 7A but it was so bloody cold

Brads Arete is really really, really good and I'd recommend people seek it out

[csl]

Rejoining this as i'm attempting to train again...

STG
V8 indoors
get out on rock
book summer sport climbing trip

MTG
7c in Siurana

LTG
8a

Mon
Hard Boulders + Fingerboard @ Arch
15 mins per problem, 4 problems. Managed one of them, V6/7? Tried another V6/7, all but one move.
Fingerboard - 5 on 10 off on smallest bm2000 hold. 5 reps, 3 sets.

Tue

Wed
Hard Boulders + Aerocap @ Biscuit
/\ Meant to be hard boulders - but they were a bit easier/suited me. Flashed 2 whites and a few reds. Whites V5/6?, reds up to V6.
Aerocap on steep circuit board. Not enough moves.

Thu

Fri
More Hard Boulders @ Arch
Did the White V6/7 from monday, tried a few Greens.

Sat

Sun
Volume - Lots of bouldering up to V5.

Good week in terms of performance, strength coming back. But i didn't do my planned sessions and just ended up trying hard boulders every session. Need to be stricter with doing what i plan to do!

[shark]

Thanks tomtom

11.4-6

M. Chulilla. Keith, Paul and I were a bit ill. I had a small chunder on the walk in to La Pared Blanca. Warmed up on a 7a pulling on the draws at the bottom. Then tried Super Zeb 7c a soaring bridging groove and the man objective of the trip. Felt off colour and my legs were tired from all the walking over the previous week. Despite this fully committed to the crux section and slapped my way up it. A bit higher I made a mistake making an HVS move going right on a handrail and was off    dogged to top and stripped gear. End of the trip. Long afternoon and evening travelling getting back to Sheffield at midnight
T. Eve. Attempted fingerboard session. OMG. Must have left my crimp at Alicante airport. Mightily upset
W.
T.
F. Fingerboard. Some improvement on tuesday but way off the pace.
S.
S. Protracted fingerboard, pullups and weights session. Finger strength still down

Been on a downer all week. Physically and mentally shagged. Lots of sleeping. Fully intended going out on Saturday but couldnt face it and crawled back to bed despite blue skies. Feel better today. Had hoped to drop some weight but a night on saturday as Ackbars with friends put paid to that.

Was hoping to return with no recruitment work but a couple of assignments unravelled so have to keep plugging away rather than go bouldering as I hoped.

Not got a training plan as such but reasonably clear what I need to do over the next couple of months. Lots of bouldering, some AeroCap and consistent fingerboarding. Hopefully core will be covered by using the crap screw-on footholds and frontlevering and deadlifting. Phase in AnCap and campus and weight loss at end.





     

[Muenchener]

STG (January): sharkathon; onsight 6b+ on plastic
MTG (2016): Redpoint 7b
LTG (<= 5 years): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.

I have some kind of virus infection and if it weren't for pressure at work, temporarily disabled child (plaster comes off next week yyfy) - and SHARKATHON! - I would have spent a couple of days in bed with ginger & lemon tea & whisky. Instead I'm keeping things ticking over as best I can, even if the "something every day" is limited to a bit of token stretching and prehab. Which I should do more of anyway, and is good for my knees/shoulders/elbows.

Sharkathon Day 11: 30 mins mobility/stretching, focus on shoulder prehab.
Sharkathon Day 12: Beastmaker max hangs, which surprisingly in the circumstances felt better than last week, although the numbers failed to notice the difference.
Sharkathon Day 13: 30 mins mobility/stretching
Sharkathon Day 14: Beastmaker. Attempted weighted max hangs, but it quickly became rather obvious that 48 hours recovery since the last session is not enough for me. Did a short (but still > 30 minutes) session of bodyweight hangs on smaller holds instead.
Sharkathon Day 15: Wall, Boulderwelt. Not very maximal attempt at max strength project bouldering. Better than sitting at home snuffling.
Weighted pullups 3 x 4 x 17.25kg
Sharkathon Day 16: Was supposed to be doing avy beacon practice with the DAV; stayed in bed to try to shift the poorliness instead. Managed half an hour stretching/mobility/shoulder prehab in the evening.
Sharkathon Day 17: Wall, Thalkirchen. An odd session. Pumped out brutally on 6a+ and 6b routes - unsurprising, given that I have been/am poorly - and yet was comfortable doing up-down-up laps on 6a.

[TobyD]

M. 30 minute run
T. foundry board problems
W. longer board problems: 2 different 12 move, 5 reps / attempts on each, tended to fail about move 10 or 11 on last 2 or 3 reps. 10 x minute on / minute off campussing, middle rungs + undercuts
T. 7'3' repeater sets on pockets. Various core exercises; 5x 10 ring press ups
F. 45 minute run (c.8.5km?)
S. Hour at Chudleigh, pretty damp; weighted pull ups at home.
S. Totally unstructured foundry board problems, 10' on the minute pocket hangs, 5x 10 ring press ups





   

[T_B]

84.4Kg

M  -
T - School p.m. mainly 50 degree. Trying Reich, but felt a little floppy post Spain.
W - Hurty left ring finger.
T - Foundry lunch. Testing finger out. Hmm.
F - School lunch. Light bouldering. Finger felt OK, then tried Reich again and realised what aggravates the strain.
S -
S - School. Light bouldering. Taped left ring finger and didn't try anything too slappy. Rings including offset pull ups, pressing and core exercises.

Somewhat annoying to pick up a finger injury, the first in absolutely ages. Needs careful management and potentially puts back my planned deadhanging block.

[Luke Owens]

Goals:
Left Wall Traverse (February/March)
Flowers are for the Dead (March/April)

Into week 2 of my training plan, wanted to get 2 AnCap sessions in but did one and couldn't resist going to the cave on Thursday instead of the wall; getting powered out probably trained something anerobic related...

M: Lunch - 50 Crunches
30 Side Crunches (15 each side)
5 x 5sec L-Hangs
3 x 10 Knee tucks
3 x 10 Dorsal Raises
5 x 5sec L-Hangs
3 x 10 Knee tucks
50 Crunches
30 Side Crunches (15 each side)

T: Lunch - 4 x 10 Press ups
6 x 5 Off-set pull ups (Alternate arms)
3 x 10 Shoulder Raises (5kg)
3 x 15sec L-Hangs
5 x 10 Dorsal Raises

Eve: Plas Power - 20min traverse ARC warm-up
20' Board - Few easy problems then did a new problem using a slopey narrow pinch (anti-style) about ~6C+ took about 6 goes.

45' Board - Repated 6B+, Repeated 7A but fell off the top not paying attention to the hold I was going for. Tried to link the first 3 moves into the crux of my project, move feels hard insolation, felt very hard to link 3 moves into it maybe 7A+.

AnCap - 14 moves x 10 reps (2mins rest between reps)

Powered out on move 13 of rep 9 and a couple of moves in on rep 10. Used a harder circuit with a cruxier move at the beginning then added a harder move again on the last 4 reps to make sure  I actually powered out.

Didn't feel too strong on the bouldering this eve but fitness on the AnCap stuff felt miles better than last week (felt hard from the word go last time), using a harder sequence and less rest this time but felt really good on it.

W: Lunch - 50 Crunches
30 Side Crunches (15 each side)
5 x 5sec L-Hangs
3 x 10 Knee tucks
3 x 10 Dorsal Raises
5 x 5sec L-Hangs
3 x 10 knee tucks
50 Crunches

T: Cave night session - Left Wall - Got 6 moves in a couple of times but powered out. Worked out some small but helpful beta tweaks which should help for next time.

F: Rest

S: Walked to Bustach Boulders - wet, then walked to Elephantitus Cave - wet. Forecast was a complete lie and it rained/sleeted on and off all day. Eventually ended up on Fish Skin Wall (7A) at Llyn Peris, had about 10+ goes, conditions were rubbish. Couldn't get LF up to rockover to high sidepull.

Day's like this feel like a complete waste when I end up not getting any training benefit despite being out for 7 hours, felt like giving up on climbing outdoors. Good company and the coffee in V12 helped. Should of gone to the peak or the cave.

S: Rest/felt a bit ill

[cheque]

STG-7s/ Extremes on grit this season. Wall of Horrors before it's too hot again.
MTG- 7b/+ in 2016
LTG- 8a

M- Wide pushups.

Tu- Notts Depot. 8 new yellow problems, 4 flashes.

W- Rest.

Th- Notts Depot. 3 new yellow problems, 1 flash.

F- Rest.

Sa- Apparent North. Perfect conditions. Beautiful. Did lots, but nothing hard- used a lot of energy trying the 7a direct mantel to The High Road- almost did it then my core just went and evrything started feeling tough. Tried Hamper's Hang for the first time- cool problem!

Su- Rivelin. We were the only people at the crag and a friendly/ hungry robin ate out of our hands!  Had a number of goes on Acid Reign but kept chicking out where it gets thin despite having enough mats for it to be totally safe. Hadn't really warmed up technique-wise as nothing easier/ lower was dry. Walked around in the snow before and after. Another great day.

Got out two days in a row for the first time since I was in the states this weekend. Climbing better than I have for ages- just need to convert that into some hard ticks. 

[Wood FT]

m -
tu - Works circuit board, yellow 7b, 5-6 goes up to move 20ish, good short session.
w -
th - Foundry routes, 12 routes 6b+ - 7a+, chuffed to onsight my first foundry 7a+ but alas, it's not.
F -
sa - Brean down for the first time, wall to wall sun forecast didn't materialise so it was cold and busy. 'warmed up' on coral sea then onsighted pearl habour. Had a good punt on root of inequity but puntered cross over move. Two tie ins on Tide Rising at the end of the day, soft 7c imo. found crux move off slopey pinch into crimp sidepull quite hard not a stopper. On the whole I was impressed by the venue and i'm excited to get back, lots to go at, pretty soft grades and it can only get warmer.
su - read the cheddar guide and got spooked by talking cranes in Bristol Harbour.

Great week, climbing well and far from fighting weight, maybe I'm supposed to be chunky. Happy to be doing routes in January, Toby psyched for Malham when it reveals itself from the otter's pocket

[fatneck]

Back on this as I actually have some stuff to report. Lay off was due to starting a new very busy job back in September. Feel like I've put in the groundwork now to enable me to start taking proper lunches and using these to train!

Weight - 94kg (down from 95 just after Christmas)

Mon - walk to work and Pilates at lunch.
Tue - 20 minutes on the rower and assorted light weights to get used to doing them again.
Wed - walk to and from work, core work out at lunch - crunches, planks etc
Thurs - Pilates and then Hangar after work -climbed terribly
Fri - walk to and from work
Sat - Finally got out! Ramshaw and Roaches lower tier. Had planned to go to the Very Far Skyline after Ramshaw but gracefully slid past the only parking slot and was no way I was getting back up the hill! Didn't do much but plenty of volume and great top be out!
Sun - Nowt - managed to go to the pictures (the Revenant - ok) and not buy any popcorn or coke!! Result...

[a dense loner]

Good work with the weight loss Fatneck 

[Falling Down]

STG (end Jan): Rebuild base (route and bouldering pyramids) do a load of good routes and have fun in El Chorro.
MTG (end Mar): weight 78kg, do a load of good routes in Siurana/Monsant - Flash a 7A whilst there.

M - 30 minute row 6.4k
T -  Made up a gently overhanging 30 move V2 circuit.  6 reps with three minutes rest each. Then some easy volume bouldering.
W - 30 minute 6k row in morning.  Nine routes in the evening. Was moving well and relaxed on the lead.
T - tired/rest
F - Bodyweight exercises at home.
S - Nowt
S - Nowt

Quite good progress in one week.  Weight down 2.4kg to 84kg since NY.

[36chambers]

STG: Exorcist short/keelhaul?
MTG: 8A not at the cliff
LTG: 8B

M: Depot, 3rd day on so took it easy/was useless.
T: Nibile's T-nation ting. 15 minutes. Body weight exercises, too easy in hindsight.
W: Indoors, playing on the 50.
T: Can't remember.
F: London to see old Uni friends
S: Drinking and eating
S: Crawl back to Leeds

Since completing my STG last week, I'm in a transition phase in which I don't have any ongoing hard projects to focus on. So following Tom's Q&A, I've drawn up a training plan geared towards my 7 big goals for the year and hopefully I'll be able to have a play on some of them in the coming weeks. 

[Nibile]

Power Club
STG - board projects.

Mon - rest. Tired and achey.
Tue - rest. Tired and achey.
Wed - board climbing. One foot bouldering, +8 kg. Good. 2 mins dumbbell complex, snatch pulls. Heavy.
Thu - RDL, 2 mins barbell carry, front pulls for traps, climbing class.
Fri - rest
Sat - board climbing. Brilliant progress on the project. Stuck the crux for the first time after three years. Come on!
Sun - explosive pull ups, dumbbell complex, snatch complex, barbell carries x2. Good shape.

[duncan]

Go Nibs! 

I'm impressed with the weight loss reported. Mine is stubbornly immobile.

STG: rehab. finger
MTG: tbc according to finger recovery
LTG: the usual LH+F.

M - Westway: a couple of easy routes and some easy traversing with the splint on
T - Tired and cold-y. Work resumption and post-trip ennui.
W - Shoulder routine
T - Westway: some easy bouldering and traversing with the splint on. Shoulder routine in the evening.
F - Socialising with Yosemite/Patagonia badass. All very inspiring, though not technically training.
S - Westway: 6 easy routes with buddy-tape only. Felt OK. Shoulder routine in the evening.
S - Gentle south downs country walk. Worthy of note as the lad managed 5 miles with minimal prompting or whinging.

Finger may be looking a bit less crooked. Hurts a tiny bit to climb on with less support, to be expected, but with no reaction the following day which is good.

Plan: gently does it with the climbing. Easy Trad. in another couple of weeks if the weather cooperates. Keep going with the supportive exercises. Probably another two months before I’ll be pulling properly.

[Nibile]

Go Nibs! 

Cheers! 

I'm impressed with the weight loss reported. Mine is stubbornly immobile.

Drop one kg of fat, put on a kg of muscle, the weight is the same, but you made progress.

[the_dom]

Been a bit of a low week, energy-wise, probably due to the heat, and the weight is starting to trend in the wrong direction again..

Mon: Hangboard followed by an exceedingly sweaty hour of bouldering 
Tues: Hike in the forest
Wed: Even-more-exceedingly sweaty hour of bouldering
Thurs: Pinch block max hangs and some desultory core
Fri: Horrible afternoon out bouldering.
Sat: 38 degrees celsius and no surf. Hangboard, deadlifts and kettlebell swings.
Sun: Hike in the forest

Not a great week.

[tk421a]

STG: Climb something good in Bulgaria (28-30 Jan)
MTG: 7B+/7C - likely going Albarracin
LTG: 8A?

Got back on the wall after a layoff due to a minor knee injury, deep drop knees still twinge a little.

M:
Tu:
W: Vauxwall, some easy boulders (felt hard!), aerocap, on circuits and some foot on campusing
Th: Yoga
F:
Sa: Vauxwall, more aerocap, 2x5min circuits, 5mins rest in between, and some more foot on campusing, 30s on 30s off
Su: Vauxwall, even more aerocap! Hopefully some effect in the next 2 weeks. 20min ARC and foot on campusing 30/30 - going to increase duration / rest soon

[rodma]

Back on it

M: weights
T: rest
W: campus at home: just feet on then easy feet off
T: weights
F: rest
S: wall session with campus warmup and pullup/pressup finish, then home to convert the kickboard of the campus board into a mini toddler- sized climbing wall :D
S: rest

A good week. Had forgotten what those were like

Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk

[T_B]

is anyone reading this as strong on pockets with middle2 as they are on half-crimps with the whole hand?

WTF!? I'm 84Kg and can hang 30Kg HC on 18mm edge, 7Kg middle two.

[rodma]

is anyone reading this as strong on pockets with middle2 as they are on half-crimps with the whole hand?

WTF!? I'm 84Kg and can hang 30Kg HC on 18mm edge, 7Kg middle two.

There's half crimps and half crimps though.

Lots of people on here use the term " half crimp" to be the natural campus grip, rather than crimped but without thumb. I'm not saying they're wrong, I'm just saying their terminology may be differing, or is just morphology, or both.

I'm about the same in two finger drag as I am in proper half crimp

Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk

[abarro81]

FWIW I doubt I'd hit his elite level on any of those tests. Which BM pockets are we talking for 25mm? Not that it's likely to matter as I don't think I could walk to the fingerboard with 0.8x bodyweight hanging off me!

[TobyD]

Toby psyched for Malham when it reveals itself from the otter's pocket

Yes! Very psyched.

[T_B]

Oh right. I use 12 for middle two hangs.