[Rocksteady]

Tom, I had a question on the adaptation times for different energy systems. My interpretation of the Binney material was this:

Ancap: 16 week adaptation time
Aerocap: 8+ week adaptation time
Anpow: 4-6 week adaptation time
Aerocap: 6 week adaptation time

Is this right? Is there any point including eg. ancap in your training if you aren't going to stay the course for 16 consistent weeks?

[lagerstarfish]

Tom, I am worried about the long term health effects of you not having a proper lunch break on Friday. What are you doing to keep yourself safe in this context?

[36chambers]

Tom, I had a question on the adaptation times for different energy systems. My interpretation of the Binney material was this:

Ancap: 16 week adaptation time
Aerocap: 8+ week adaptation time
Anpow: 4-6 week adaptation time
Aerocap: 6 week adaptation time

Is this right? Is there any point including eg. ancap in your training if you aren't going to stay the course for 16 consistent weeks?

I may be wrong, but I thought adaptation time was the amount of time it takes for the improvements of a particular energy system to begin to plateau.

So spending more than 6 weeks on Aerocap would be a waste, as further improvements in that cycle would be negligible.

That being said, I would have thought 4-8 weeks (for example) of Ancap is better than 0 weeks of Ancap.

(Tom, my third question is whether what I have just wrote is nonsense?)

[shark]

Tom, I had a question on the adaptation times for different energy systems. My interpretation of the Binney material was this:

Ancap: 16 week adaptation time
Aerocap: 8+ week adaptation time
Anpow: 4-6 week adaptation time
Aerocap: 6 week adaptation time

Is this right? Is there any point including eg. ancap in your training if you aren't going to stay the course for 16 consistent weeks?

Had a discussion about this on holiday and I'd got the wrong end of the stick too. The adaption time means how long you can keep training this component before plateauing or going into decline as opposed to how long you have to train this component before getting an adaption ie you will still adapt (get better) at AnCap if you do it for 1 or 2 or 3 weeks etc but not past 16 weeks.

I was also told these time frames are extrapolated from swimming studies so the crossover may not be accurate to climbing.

Edit: What 36Chambers said

[Paul B]

Interesting clarification.

[Lund]

Tom, I had a question on the adaptation times for different energy systems. My interpretation of the Binney material was this:

Ancap: 16 week adaptation time
Aerocap: 8+ week adaptation time
Anpow: 4-6 week adaptation time
Aerocap: 6 week adaptation time

Is this right? Is there any point including eg. ancap in your training if you aren't going to stay the course for 16 consistent weeks?

I may be wrong, but I thought adaptation time was the amount of time it takes for the improvements of a particular energy system to begin to plateau.

So spending more than 6 weeks on Aerocap would be a waste, as further improvements in that cycle would be negligible.

That being said, I would have thought 4-8 weeks (for example) of Ancap is better than 0 weeks of Ancap.

(Tom, my third question is whether what I have just wrote is nonsense?)

Great question.  if the above is a true summary - i.e. the adaptation time is the plateau time - does the 80/20 pareto rule apply to these periods - so you would get 80% of the response in 20% of the time?

[tomtom]

Tom, I had a question on the adaptation times for different energy systems. My interpretation of the Binney material was this:

Ancap: 16 week adaptation time
Aerocap: 8+ week adaptation time
Anpow: 4-6 week adaptation time
Aerocap: 6 week adaptation time

Is this right? Is there any point including eg. ancap in your training if you aren't going to stay the course for 16 consistent weeks?

Aerocap is in there twice with different adaptation times... ??

[fatneck]

What is the largest amount of weed anyone has been able to fit in a sublime brush?

Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk

[Rocksteady]

Sorry last one meant to be Aeropow. I'll try to edit my post thereby rendering TomTom's post nonsensical. 

Thanks for the responses all.

[tomtom]

Sorry last one meant to be Aeropow. I'll try to edit my post thereby rendering TomTom's post nonsensical. 

[remus]

Question for Tom,

Are the results of your testing confidential or can we find out who the biggest over achiever is etc? So weakest with highest grades (probably the best climber) or strongest with a relatively low grade? Route climbers who are overly strong or boulderers that would be better served on a rope!


I know this isn't really training related but it's pretty interesting amongst all the energy system chat!

I work with Tom on the data analysis side of things for Lattice Training. Client data is confidential. It's hard to have confidence in a service if you see your private data being spilled all over the internet.

What I can tell you that Im a total underperformer (strong fingers, shit at climbing), Ollie Torr is a slacker ('Needs to apply himself' in the words of his year 3 teacher)  and Tom is weak as a kitten!

[andy_e]

Did I miss the Q&A session?

[Grubes]

What is the largest amount of weed anyone has been able to fit in a sublime brush?

I heard it was a 40 Oz to freedom but I believe it was more like 2 joints

[Denbob99]

What is the largest amount of weed anyone has been able to fit in a sublime brush?

Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk

I reckon hash is the way to go, providing you can get something other than soapbar of course

[GraemeA]

Damn, just worked out you can't link to a FB photo :-(

[JohnM]

My question:

You recently mentioned something about people doing wasted miles at the climbing wall.  I was wondering whether you could clarify what that it is as I am beginning to wonder if I am doing wasted miles.  My "stam" training at the wall tends to revolve around climbing 7b-7c to the top feeling a medium to high level of pump and then down climbing 6c-7a shaking out and trying to recover and then re-climbing the same up route fighting the pump all the way.  I get a pretty high level of pump after this and then rest 15 mins and then try and do another 2-3 sets.

1.  Is this wasted miles?
2.  What am I actually training (anaerobic capacity etc?)?

 

[T_B]

Unless you're Adam Ondra, surely that's high intensity AeroCap? 7b-7c at the wall generally equates to 7c-8a outside in my experience (I've never understood why walls grade routes so hard, if I owned the wall I'd make them as soft as a Spanish stam plod and keep my punters' egos massaged...)

[Richie Crouch]

Dear Tom

I'm currently working 5-6 days a week and have evenings free to go indoors with 1 outdoor day (that hasn't happened since font at the start of Nov). My main aim for the year is to add a font 7B/+ 9 move start into an 8B that took every last ounce of energy/sieging to get done last May (this is another 10 moves). All I've done since May is potter around on easier problems for 4 months outside before retreating indoors to just try problems for the last few months.

The problem stays pretty dry most of the year as it's in a grotty limestone cave 15 mins from my house.

I have done zero structured training for a couple of years or more. What would be the best way to approach the issue:

1. Grind it into submission by trying the problem/link (usual method)
2. Do some structured power endurance training indoors for a 19 move sequence where the crux is move 13?
3. Do fun stuff like 1 arm and weighted deadhangs to boost the fingers and arms, combined with core (as it's all horizontal) before getting on it
4. Try and climb some other 8A-8B's first and build some momentum

I've always made it up as I go along depending on what I feel like doing which results in eventual success but no real consistency in form. I don't feel like I have one massive glaring weakness other than a dire level of cardiovascular fitness & aerobic climbing fitness. I'm also getting older (33 this year) so need to try and be more efficient before it's too late!

Yours faithfully

A lanky punter

[JohnM]

Unless you're Adam Ondra, surely that's high intensity AeroCap? 7b-7c at the wall generally equates to 7c-8a outside in my experience (I've never understood why walls grade routes so hard, if I owned the wall I'd make them as soft as a Spanish stam plod and keep my punters' egos massaged...)

Doesn't Aerocap mean my muscles are working aerobically?  Even towards the top of the first up I can get a fierce pump which I assumed was because my muscles were working anaerobically?

I agree about indoor routes.  Sometimes there are 7c's I can't do the moves on particularly if they are set in the comp style (i.e. getting harder the higher you go up to split the field).  This style then renders the route useless for this type of training.

[spam]

Thanks to Tom for doing this.  I hope he's scoring lots of clients from the TB podcast.

 I've been doing the 20x(30s on/30s off) workout, suggested in Barrow's podcast (as a complement to continuous lower intensity ARCing) but I'd like some clarification on the target effort level; can pushing into the realm where you are powering out towards the ends of sets render this a junk mileage situation, or only if you start to get pumped?  If it is as high intensity as nearly powering out (which is how I've been doing it), is this essentially a protocol that is walking the line between aerobic capacity/anaerobic capacity/anaerobic power workout, or should it be viewed differently?

Also, in the finger strength testing procedure (max 1 arm hangs off of small middle beastmaker rung) is it anything goes (e.g. crimp with thumb) or some specific grip(e.g. 1/2 crimp, no thumb, or open hand)?

[fatneck]

Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk

[a dense loner]

Did Tom do this at lunchtime? I'm off to the pub now to get fucked up

[tomtom]

Alccap or Alcpow?

[moose]

Unless you're Adam Ondra, surely that's high intensity AeroCap? 7b-7c at the wall generally equates to 7c-8a outside in my experience (I've never understood why walls grade routes so hard, if I owned the wall I'd make them as soft as a Spanish stam plod and keep my punters' egos massaged...)

So, I am not the only person who finds this.  I very rarely do routes indoors (lime routes all summer; winter is indoor / outdoor bouldering) but went to Leeds Wall last weekend.  True to my normal pitiful indoor routes performance, I was failing to RP 7as after 2 or 3 goes.  A couple of months ago at St Leger, I was seeing off 7c-7c+s after a couple of goes.  Every indoor route I try seems to have a huge locky move / bunched press at the top - sort of move where the size of the holds is near irrelevant, it's generally more a lack of beefiness that finds me out (especially after 20m of non-stop climbing).

[slackline]

Alccap or Alcpow?

Accapi?