Tom, I had a question on the adaptation times for different energy systems. My interpretation of the Binney material was this:Ancap: 16 week adaptation timeAerocap: 8+ week adaptation timeAnpow: 4-6 week adaptation timeAerocap: 6 week adaptation timeIs this right? Is there any point including eg. ancap in your training if you aren't going to stay the course for 16 consistent weeks?
Quote from: Rocksteady on January 14, 2016, 02:01:13 pmTom, I had a question on the adaptation times for different energy systems. My interpretation of the Binney material was this:Ancap: 16 week adaptation timeAerocap: 8+ week adaptation timeAnpow: 4-6 week adaptation timeAerocap: 6 week adaptation timeIs this right? Is there any point including eg. ancap in your training if you aren't going to stay the course for 16 consistent weeks?I may be wrong, but I thought adaptation time was the amount of time it takes for the improvements of a particular energy system to begin to plateau. So spending more than 6 weeks on Aerocap would be a waste, as further improvements in that cycle would be negligible. That being said, I would have thought 4-8 weeks (for example) of Ancap is better than 0 weeks of Ancap.(Tom, my third question is whether what I have just wrote is nonsense?)
Sorry last one meant to be Aeropow. I'll try to edit my post thereby rendering TomTom's post nonsensical.
Question for Tom,Are the results of your testing confidential or can we find out who the biggest over achiever is etc? So weakest with highest grades (probably the best climber) or strongest with a relatively low grade? Route climbers who are overly strong or boulderers that would be better served on a rope!I know this isn't really training related but it's pretty interesting amongst all the energy system chat!
What is the largest amount of weed anyone has been able to fit in a sublime brush?
What is the largest amount of weed anyone has been able to fit in a sublime brush?Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk
Unless you're Adam Ondra, surely that's high intensity AeroCap? 7b-7c at the wall generally equates to 7c-8a outside in my experience (I've never understood why walls grade routes so hard, if I owned the wall I'd make them as soft as a Spanish stam plod and keep my punters' egos massaged...)
Alccap or Alcpow?