You probably know someone who feels comfortable climbing on vertical walls, but as soon as there is a roof or the wall starts to kick back, they flail. The most common reaction to this is “I can’t do overhangs, they’re too hard” and they go right back to the vertical climbs. Seemingly in the hopes that, on some magical day, overhangs will become “easy”.
M: New Manchester Depot. Decided to get a 3 month pass - partly as I prefer to do lots of smaller wall sessions than fewer long ones - see how that pays off. Trashed after an hour
S: Cave - Felt pretty rubbish/weak warming up but once warm felt good. Short term goal ticked by doing LWT from the Horizontal Shothole (7A). Felt hard previously but sorted all kinds of micro beta which helped. Did the 4 moves from the proper start too and managed to link them into the a few moves on the shothole start at the end of the session. Just need to link in the 4 hard moves into the whole thing now.
STG (end Jan): Rebuild base (route and bouldering pyramids) do a load of good routes and have fun in El Chorro. MTG (end Mar): weight 78kg, do a load of good routes in Siurana/Monsant - Flash a 7A whilst there.M - Driving back from WalesT - wall 8 routes TRself belay to 5W - wall 12 routes TR self belay to 5+T - wall 9 routes TR self belay to 6aF - Hungover/tired from works' leaving drinks S - 24 problems up to V2/3S - restReally enjoyed starting climbing again after such a long (2.5 years) layoff. Being really careful as my weight is way up and I'm weak and unfit so a cautious approach needed. Really looking forward to the two trips away.Duncan/Shark - great trip reports... Habrich - not jealous at all..
MTG Mar): weight 78kg, do a load of good routes Siurana/Monsant - Flash a 7A
Almscliff. Wasn't planning on trying Dialectics but got on it anyway and eventually sent! YYFY!! .
Quote from: 36chambers on January 10, 2016, 08:10:33 pmAlmscliff. Wasn't planning on trying Dialectics but got on it anyway and eventually sent! YYFY!! . Will Hunt thinks "it's only 6B+ though and even easier if you're short..."
Quote from: andy_e on January 11, 2016, 07:52:19 pmQuote from: 36chambers on January 10, 2016, 08:10:33 pmAlmscliff. Wasn't planning on trying Dialectics but got on it anyway and eventually sent! YYFY!! . Will Hunt thinks "it's only 6B+ though and even easier if you're short..."Classic Will.
Quote from: Falling Down on January 11, 2016, 06:09:23 pmMTG Mar): weight 78kg, do a load of good routes Siurana/Monsant - Flash a 7ATikis Mikis at Siurana is a fantastic trad groove corner @ 7a. Suits those who like bridging and the odd jam, plus it has rests. Did it yesterday - highly recommended.
Happy 40th to me!
At least there's no chance of him doing it for the downgrade.
Good effort 36chambers, keelhaul next?
Quote from: Mumra on January 12, 2016, 12:15:30 amGood effort 36chambers, keelhaul next?Cheers, I've yet to try the moves but I'm keen to check it out.
Quote from: Mumra on January 12, 2016, 12:15:30 amGood effort 36chambers, keelhaul next?Cheers, I've yet to try the moves but I'm keen to check it out. I've done Exorcist short in two halves so that's also tempting. But maybe I should be more adventurous and try something that isn't on DWR.
Quote from: 36chambers on January 12, 2016, 11:52:12 amQuote from: Mumra on January 12, 2016, 12:15:30 amGood effort 36chambers, keelhaul next?Cheers, I've yet to try the moves but I'm keen to check it out. I've done Exorcist short in two halves so that's also tempting. But maybe I should be more adventurous and try something that isn't on DWR. If that doesn't suit, I understand there a whole load of mid 7's 6s and low sevens and random remote moorland locations that require downgrading
If you're looking for non cliff projects then now is surely the time for Jason's Roof?!
Quote from: T_B on January 11, 2016, 07:40:39 pmQuote from: Falling Down on January 11, 2016, 06:09:23 pmMTG Mar): weight 78kg, do a load of good routes Siurana/Monsant - Flash a 7ATikis Mikis at Siurana is a fantastic trad groove corner @ 7a. Suits those who like bridging and the odd jam, plus it has rests. Did it yesterday - highly recommended.Does anyone have any good recommendations for Siruana 7bs? Not short and bouldery as I'm weak as a kitten.
STG: Lose the Xmas blubber. 7B. More grit sessions.MTG: Don't get broken.Mon: TCA, 4x4s and aerocap. Wasted time and recovery capital doing stuff that wont help my bouldering.Tue: Max hangs, +20kg 16mm, managed about 6s maxWed: TCA, quick woody session. Was a fuck ton stronger than Three Nine, man he is a little prick. Even tho i'm fat from Christmas I am strong enough to piss any 7B around. Thu: Nowt.Fri: Squeezed in a TCA session, mucked about on the new 6c-7b circuit. Did a bunch of problems (the soft ones )Sat: 5km run. Knackered from new commute (by bike), which is twice the distance of the old.Sun: Mate's birthday day-trip to the Peak. Went to Stanage Left with the intention of doing Beauty. Good times having a quick crack at Chip Shop Brawl - got reasonably far and confident it'll go with a bit more time. Had to retreat due to wind and lack of feeling in fingers, sadly had to miss out on Beauty as was busy, but then did Cock O The Rock and ended the day watching the birthday boy do the Buckstone Dyno as a great end to the day.Nice write-ups Shark and T_B. Great images from Habrich - quite jealous! Hopefully back up to the grit next week...
[Does anyone have any good recommendations for Siruana 7bs? Not short and bouldery as I'm weak as a kitten.
Margalef where the routes aren't too long, the climbing felt very basic and you could just pull and climb quickly.
Quote from: Hugh on January 13, 2016, 08:37:14 pm.....Wed: TCA, quick woody session. Was a fuck ton stronger than Three Nine, man he is a little prick. Even tho i'm fat from Christmas I am strong enough to piss any 7B around. .....Amended for you.
.....Wed: TCA, quick woody session. Was a fuck ton stronger than Three Nine, man he is a little prick. Even tho i'm fat from Christmas I am strong enough to piss any 7B around. .....