[andyd]

Eh the double dyno at isatis was given 7a+ and the non eliminate version of the problem 6b+. Me no understand your point largers?

No way is that 6b+. I had to wear a new pair of 5.10s to get up that 10 years ago. New topic non?

[Mumra]

I'm guessing he's talking about rules for eliminates....but you already knew that

[lagerstarfish]

Eh the double dyno at isatis was given 7a+ and the non eliminate version of the problem 6b+. Me no understand your point largers?

the non-eliminate gets 5-

the double dyno eliminate used to get 7A+ and now gets 6B+, because even in areas where people understand Font grades, some wrong grades slip through

I'd give it 6C

[a dense loner]

Wtf! Fonts full of shit. 5- halfwits

[lagerstarfish]

 

[tomtom]

Morecombe and Wise...

[Will Hunt]

Shipley Glen:
The Pinch. In the book and on UKC at 7B+. It's the one where you start just left of the crack left of Parker, get your hands up and then throw a heel over your head into the crack. Then a big udge up to the break. Has been confused recently with Honey I Shrunk The Kids which is just left. I thought 6C+, Footwork thought 6C. Any other opinions?

And in that area, Lady Penelope sit is in the book and on UKC at 7C which is definitely miles off. It's in Cameron Duff at 7B (as is Parker Sit) which I'd agree with (7A+ for the stand to Lady P? Thoughts on this Footwork?). Are there any opinions from the floor? I'd like to get them corrected on UKC if possible.

[Footwork]

Shipley Glen:
The Pinch. In the book and on UKC at 7B+. It's the one where you start just left of the crack left of Parker, get your hands up and then throw a heel over your head into the crack. Then a big udge up to the break. Has been confused recently with Honey I Shrunk The Kids which is just left. I thought 6C+, Footwork thought 6C. Any other opinions?

And in that area, Lady Penelope sit is in the book and on UKC at 7C which is definitely miles off. It's in Cameron Duff at 7B (as is Parker Sit) which I'd agree with (7A+ for the stand to Lady P? Thoughts on this Footwork?). Are there any opinions from the floor? I'd like to get them corrected on UKC if possible.

The pinch is no harder than 6C (if you're allowed a heel lock in the crack). You could drink a beer off that heel.

Agree with the stand to Lady Penelope being solid 7A+ (it's harder than Parker). The sit start I struggled with though. If you're not lanky it's quite a bit of udging up with the right hand to the good bit of the flake. Hard 7B easy 7B+? Greasy today though.