[Doylo]

Proper Christmas tradition this thread. Ok year, didn't tick many route because spent most the time on one but form was decent. 

Top three boulder probems, UK

Corridors of Power, Llanberis Pass - Really good line and nice to do it quick after seeing all the beasts go up and tick it.
Enter The Dragon, Tremeirchion - definitely a good bit of progression to do a hard one that's not power endurance. I'm still weak though 
Game Changer, Guernsey - Work trip was made bearable by the hospitality of the locals (Smith brothers  ) who showed me their problems. The 2nd ascent of this one was my favourite, a cool prow.

Top three new route put up

Dick Dastardly, Llanddulas Cave - really sweet boulder problem on a rope. Had eyed it up for a while and it climbed well. Managed it as a finger rehab route.

The Witches of Pen Trwyn, Pen Trwyn - bouldery thing through a roof. Average route but always good to find a new one on the Orme

Yankee Doodle Pigeon,  Llanddulas Cave - more bouldery fun

Top 3 problems put up

The Manor Traverse - Fun little manor crag campaign culminated in the big traverse.

Proctor Tribute Traverse- Another big traverse that weirdly hadn't been done.

Enter the Flag - Easier version of ETD.

Top Spankings

Dulas proj- might have happened if i hadn't hurt my finger and had to bugger off to Guernsey then girlfriend holiday. Didn't get properly redpointing until September which didn't leave enough time. Struggled mentally as I fell probably 70 times on the crux and went backwards in October before a highpoint on the last sesh before the rain. Learnt a lot.

Sparks, Pantymwyn - hardest problem in the world. Have done the moves several ways but can't link any of the different methods. Weak on those thin slots. Just fuckin nails for me!

Some 6C in Guernsey 

Daisy From Concrete, Parisellas - My Cave nemesis this one, always fall off the 'easy' finish of Trigger. Don't get it!

[stokesy]

Nice selection Stokesy,

I've only done Dreamland once - got on it immediately after a sudden and intense hailstorm.  Never felt the rock so grippy - like the rock had been scoured clean by the hail stones. Never dared get back on in less magical conditions.

Agree that Horn Rib (if its the f7a+/b LHS eliminate at Caley you mean) is great.  Thuggy, slopey slapping is normally my anti-style but I really like the problem and it's one of the few problems at the grade I try to re-do every year. 

Vim is cool too - so many good aretes and walls with slightly unnerving finishes at Shipley.... which reminds me that  I must try to muster the courage to try Phil's Wall again (last go ended up in a hospital visit).

Tried Phil's Wall when I did Vim, wouldn't fancy falling near the top without a few pads! Cool problem though, will have to get back to it when I get back to the UK.

Yeah Horn Rib is that thing up at Caley Crag, great bit of bouldering even if it is a bit eliminate.

[joeisidle]

Nice to see Barry Kingsize made your list Ben! (made spotting you on it for about 3 hours seem all the more bearable ). This thread is my favorite thing on UKB, certainly generates more psyche than the targets in the 2015 thread - not that I won't be claiming that I'll loose weight, get stronger etc.etc.

[ghisino]

Top three sport:
Hoy me voy, Tarn
Spit bouse, st léger
Barbitturique, Tarn
All three 8a

Top three bouldering
La dalle de fer 7c
Danse de printemps 7c (trav)
Winning a champagne magnum bottle at a friendly comp!

Only trad climb: Natilik

Top spankings:
Al andalouze, st léger. Just not at all my style.
L'ami de tout le monde, céuse. Went past the first section on two tries only, over two weeks. Almost dis it though!
Les beaux quartiers. Probably not the best choice if i want to climb an 8a boulder someday?

[Wood FT]

A great year climbing wise, I'll always look back on this one with a certain joy.

Top 3 trad routes/solos:
Raiders of the Lost Auk,Pabbay (E4 5c) - The purest onsight I've ever done. A real battle as the rescue helicopter was conducting a rescue for 80% of pitch one

Warpath, Rhoscolyn (E5 6a) - On paper it was a shambles, falling off trying to flash an already regarded soft E5, but it was thanks to this weekend with a good mate that I didn't fall apart during a pretty shit part of my life. I owe climbing a lot.

Elysium, Pabbay (E4 6a) - Was going to say Sugar Cane Country but the top pitch of this hangs heavy in my memory, pulling over the roof I looked down and just couldn't believe it, outrageous exposure. Get some!

Top 3 UK sport routes:
Toys for the boys, Cheedale (7c+) - Always been intrigued by this route since I read Shark's hilarious blog. My favourite Cheedale route, perfect in it's genre I would say. It's Peak Lime for a reason.

Axle Attack, Pen Trwyn (7a+) - Not the biggest number but i'll remember this one for the craic, desperately trying to flash it, failing then watching and heckling a mate as he burnt me off nearly dropping it as his elbows went airborne. 

Powerplant, Cheedale (8a) - YYFY Took me ages, totally not my style. Really Really enjoyed it though not without low points. Pulled it off late season, thanks to everyone who belayed me.

 
Top 3 routes abroad:

Afroman, Diablo (7b DWS) - Smashed my chest first go. The pinnacle of fun in climbing, a great trip.

NSFW  :

7a on the left at everyone warms up on, Oliana - Didn't do much on a fruitless Spanish trip but this is genuinely class, wonderful moves and rock.

Martinez Somoano, Naranjo de Bulnes (TD) - Unexpected trip to the summit up the east face, the consolation prize.

Top 3 boulder problems:

Tricky one as I've only done 2 new problems this year according to my logbook, what a fraud.

Dobbin's Blog, Dobb Edge (7A) - Nice little wall and a satisfying lash

Book end, Bamford (6B) - Never noticed this before

Top 3 spankings:
Rabada-Navarro, Naranjo de Bulnes (TD) - Oh you silly billy. Lesson learnt, keep calm and don't quest off rope lengths on a gut feeling.

Positiva Energia, Terradets (7c+) - Brits abroad syndrome, pumped out of my mind, next time I come back to Bruxes I'm onsighting the fucking crag

Why me?, Cheedale (7c+) - slap whipper slap whipper slap whipper go home. Repeat after work loads of times. Stacked Sam cored my rope. What a move, power growls!

Top 3 parties:
Dettmann and Klock b2b, Bloc Fest - Perfect end to a brilliant weekend

Lucy/Paula Temple, Hopeworks - After the works party, a few remaining heads.

Works After Party, Sam/Gus/Chris/Malc - DIY and inclusive, I love Sheffield.

[ashtond6]

Nice write up. Yyfy climbing

[duncan]

I've really enjoyed reading what others get up to, some people have had great years.

Top three trad routes UK
Pick any three routes I did at Fairhead. Mizzen Star probably the best of an excellent bunch. Midnight Cruiser at 9.30 in the evening, last on the crag and still hours of daylight left, was a great memory. The Doffer was also a memory, of a different sort, fairplay to the Fairhead climbers of the 70s. Keen to return for the festival again next year and to get myself onto some harder stuff.

Top three sport routes UK
Had some good days by the seaside with some good people but no climb was  individually very memorable. I'd planned to get properly involved with redpointing this year but for various reasons, not least habit, it didn't happen.

Top three routes abroad
Spasspartout and Sonnenkoenig (Wendenstock). It took a couple of trips to actually climb there but I loved the place and will be back for more. All I hoped it would be.
Los cojones de Satan at the excellent Rumenes. A consolation for not getting up Naranjo but maintained the 7a onsighting record even if I didn't maintain the E3 one.

Top Spankings
Rabada-Navarro, or rather the Picos weather. It wasn't really a spanking since we knew it was unlikely the route was on when we started and just being up there was great. Put it down as a good reconnaissance.
Meister Proper (Lehn) on the Swiss trip, a really good power-endurance 7b(+). Enjoyed working this at the end of a day, felt solid on it, and was looking forward to giving it a good try. Returned a couple of days later by which time I had a proper cold and could barely pull on it. One to go back to if I'm in the area again.
Holy Hand Grenade (Cuttings) which administered my first ever significant finger injury.

Main issue this year is that I've too often avoided getting on things which might deliver a spanking, a much bigger failing.

2015 has not been a vintage year, climbing-wise and otherwise. Climbing didn't really start 'til June due various reasons and then stopped again almost immediately. I dropped below 200 routes in the year and it's the first time since 2008 I've not onsighted an E3, though both Wendenstock routes required E3 skills. I've learned some useful stuff about looking after myself better and am putting it into practice. I've missed climbing opportunities and I don't have an infinite supply of these.nI'm going to try to not let this happen so often next year.

[Andy W]

Pretty good bouldering year, but bit shit in many other ways. Ended in a flurry, selling my house and moving to the Pyrennees!


Top Three problems
Pit Traverse 7C Ogwen, N Wales
AWOL apprentice 7C, Tintagel, Cornwall.
Miko 7A+, Sintra Portugal.

Top three new problems
Madeleine Eats Cake 7C+/8A, Godrevy, culmination of long term project, scratching up an original problem (LTP Left)  from some poor and lower crimps, might be hard!
Carousel 7A+ and sandman 7A at Treen, West Penwith, such a lovely spot.
 
Top Three Sport
None!

Top Three Trad
Seconding Cemetry gates and Cenotaph Corner, That’s all I did all year!

[Johnny Brown]

Top three boulder probs, UK

Spellbound, Churnet - great line with a perfectly positioned pop-for-the-top. Flapped my way up whilst being hosed with beta.
Walk on by, Curbar  - over ten years since I first did the now-defunct original version. New feels a bit easier but maybe climbs better.
Western Eyes, Burbage - again, not a new tick but happy to do it a couple of times last winter (as a dad so get an extra grade or two).

Top three boulder probs, abroad

L'Artificier (direct), Rocher Saint Germain - highball LeDenmat slab on razors, amazing, dropped the top and everything.
Contact, JA Martin - fun, best conventional new tick of short but fun font trip two weeks back.
L'Abbatoir, Cuvier - never got round to this before, highly entertaining siege with the old monday afternoon club.

Top three trad routes/soloes UK

Good year this, despite a shaky start and limited days out.
Behemoth, WCJ - DT put the gear in, then slumped, BB finished it off, I should have seconded for the gear but flipped a coin and went on lead. Shook my way up totally unfit, just made it, mega. Will have to go back and do it properly.
The Cullinan, Lundy - second route on the island, in the sun, big audience, McManus made it look hard, was totally piss. Brilliant. Roaches E3?
Antiworlds, Lundy - Ben led the big two pitches of this, burrowing through guano on the first then off route on the third, but the quality shone through; astonishing, desert island route.
Widespread Ocean of fear, Lundy - I got the big pitch, no chalk, a bit damp, lichened, lonely, full on.
The Dog's Bollocks, Lundy - one of the best leads of my life following the good cop/ bad cop routine from Caff and Dan in the pub; right at my limit. Ben was kind enough to look a tad flustered on second.

Top three sport routes UK

Did one 6c down Cheedale I think, plus some top-roping at the Cornice to get fit for Lundy. Good, no time wasted.

Top three routes abroad (any genre)
Top three new route/prob put up

Top three winter routes

The Wayward Prong, Carnedd Dafydd - not great climbing but a brilliant day out involving cunning route choice and tricky navigation, lots of fun.
Une Journee Ordinaire, Ben Nevis - a moment of clarity as I actually took the easiest line for the first time in my life.
Minus Two, Ben Nevis - culmination of a brilliant three night camping trip up the Ben. Big route in decent style, it's about so much more than the moves.

Top Spankings

Less spanked by fatherhood and work this year, partly due to my acceptance and partly due to the wife finishing her degree. On the plus side felt my personal photography went really well in the first half of the year, took a couple that felt like new ground.
L'etrave, JA Martin - struggling to get going on day one.
M1, High Tor/ Vector, top pitch, Tremadoc - two E2s that were at my limit in July/Aug, shook my way up, just!

[Footwork]

Top three five boulder problems

Best bouldering year to date so a bit tricky:
1. Hunters roof - all alone and with a sunset to top out.
2. McNab SS - a lovely day on the moors
3. Pistol Whip - so good I did it twice! (To check it wasn't a fluke)
4. Stu's roof - hardest thing all year
5. The Geminid trail - it's like setting off on a mini adventure

Top three trad routes/ highballs

1. Charming Crack - YYFY what a bastard
2. Battlecat - my kind of problem
3. The white Doe - what lovely features

Top new problems

Who knows if it they were done already (probably) but I really enjoyed a day with Will at Sigsworth climbing Wall of the Wild and The Oyster Catcher. Also repeating Will's The Cestrian was a relief.

Top trip abroad

Font in April. Ticked some classics off the list including La Baleine, Big Jim (and falling off the top), Carnage, El Poussif, Onde de Choc and Gargantoit. The trip down was an epic on its own and good company and amazing weather made it a great trip. Also the comedy value of our accommodation.

Top spankings

Jess's roof - a few sessions this year but walked away with soggy pads possibly mixed with shit
Bouldering on Limestone. My fingers just can't cope.
My shoulder. It's fucked. Rehab seems slow and it's been hurting for a couple of months. 

[Sasquatch]

Top three boulder probs, Home Area
Crouching Shark, Hidden Octopus
Deceivingly Sexy
Muffin Man Sit

Top three boulder probs, abroad
Gunslinger - Tahoe
Wild Pack of Family Dogs - Tahoe
Fun House - Tahoe

Top three trad routes/soloes Home Area
None

Top three sport routes Home Area
Harpooned - Dry Docks
Icky Thump - Byron Glacier
Black Pudding - Byron Glacier

Top three routes abroad (any genre)
None

Top three new route/prob put up
Crouching Shark, Hidden Octopus
Deceivingly Sexy
Muffin Man Sit

Top Spankings
Life stuff - New business, Daughter's Seizures and seizure study in Seattle, relationship woes
Climbing Wise
- The Oral Beast  - injured shoulder on it. 
- Spotted Dick Project - wicked hard and inspiring.  Did all of the moves in two days of work.  Hopefully will be able to link up next summer. 

[AJM]

I started off thinking that this was going to be a bit of a crap list – I was out for several months with an A2 tweak, and in general I’ve not really been on it this year (see spankings). However, looking back through the logbook I realised that whilst it’s not necessarily been the best year there have been some gems out there.

Top three boulder probs, UK

Years around the sun – Cuttings. A proper route climbers boulder problem

Hoffmajeure, Portland Bill – good stacked roof action

In general I’ve been pleasantly surprised by the quality of the Portland bouldering I’ve done to date

Some random 7A at cragX with Alex

Top three boulder probs, abroad

Anything from Rocklands, really. Girl on our Mind, Feist, Vertigo, Manneurheim roof, Pincon d’Herbes Arete, Tiger Claw, oh so many others.

Top three trad routes/soloes UK

Sapphire, Swanage – the first time I managed to get my trad intimidation at Swanage under control really. Small victories, but it felt like its grade rather than like ohmygoditssoscarythisrockisterriblewaaaaaaa

Animal Magnetism – Lulworth. Sunny day, mates yelling beta – got it on the flash, hardest DWS to date.

Crime and Punishment, Trial Wall. On Ally’s gear, so a semi sport tick that could fit in either category. However, dead chuffed to flash it, hard to fight hard, some of the hardest moves I’ve done on gear.

Top three sport routes UK

Realm of Chaos, Wallsend. I like Wallsend. The route is nice and pumpy, no tweaky holds, my first decent route back after finger rehab, excellent. Way better than some of the sharp fingery polished nonsense that passes for classics up north.

Avenging the Halsewell, Winspit. Good stacked roof action.

I’m not sure there’s really been a third. I really enjoyed the sequence on Damnation Game I guess. Or I’ll double count Crime and Punishment above.

Top three routes abroad (any genre)

Gladiator, my hardest onsight in Kaly, or possibly DNA for the outrageous jug hauling bucket pulling fun.

Armada Sikati – fell off the last move on a greasy day but oh what fun it is.

Spasspartout – despite the spanking (see below) a fantastic experience.

Top three new route/prob put up
n/a

Top Spankings

I got shut down by a lot of things at rocklands, but a large chunk of that was finger injury related so not a true spanking

Main failure for the year has been of psyche. The combination of having to adapt to a post van trip world, having a finger injury, a new job, having to assemble a new circle of climbing partners, balancing my climbing with my wife’s (she is gradually becoming a boulderer), and just generally being really busy has played havoc with my time on rock and my motivation this year.

Wendenstock. For many of the reasons noted above I wasn’t on form – too little trad mileage, and the climbing I had done left me woefully unprepared for runout footsy grey blankness. I’ve got something of a score to settle – I want to go back and actually feel like I’m on top of things next time.

[Stabbsy]

Strange year with injuries and lack of motivation to train, but started to come together in the second half of the year with a bit of trad mileage, some Moors exploration and a couple of Spain trips.

Top 3 problems, UK

Underhand, Almscliff - Injured my finger on this in December last year after not warming up properly. Good to come back in April and get my revenge.
Low-Tech, Brimham - Brimham continues to surprise me with hidden-away, unspoilt classics like this.
The Prow, Wainstones - First impression of the Moors following the new bouldering guide wasn't good, but it pays to persevere. Some good venues and great problems, with this being one of the best.

Top 3 problems, abroad

Nowt.

Top 3 sport routes, UK

Not much success on the harder things I tried, but quite motivating to see some new crags.

Top 3 trad routes, UK

Digitron, Craig Arthur - A crag I've been meaning to visit for years, long and adventurous. Great day out combined with Mannikins of Horror.
The Dangler, Stanage - Always avoided this as it looked desperate, but such a good route.
Earl Buttress, Earl - Probably my favourite route of the year, big holds and great gear. Timed to perfection, as my mate topped out just as the rain started.

Top 3 sport routes, abroad

With a combination of work and injuries, I didn't leave the country until November. Must do better next year.

Pina Disfruta, Poza de la Mona - A crag I'd written off after my first visit 4 years ago turned out to have far more to offer than I'd remembered!
Batacazo, Los Pinos - Just about did all the moves on the first time up, feeling very jaded with the sun blasting the wall. Surprised myself by doing it next go after the sun had dropped behind the hills.
Pere Flac, Bellus - Only F6b/+ but one of the best routes I've done for years. Technical and engaging without being hard. Shame the rest of the crag didn't live up such high expectations.

[the_dom]

Top three boulder probs, abroad

Anything from Rocklands, really. Girl on our Mind, Feist, Vertigo, Manneurheim roof, Pincon d’Herbes Arete, Tiger Claw, oh so many others.

All pretty world class. Rocklands has, to me, a couple of great grade ranges: 6B to 6C, 7B to 7C and 8A up. That's a great selection in the 6C-ish range. Pretty much anything harder requires crimping.

[AJM]

Top three boulder probs, abroad

Anything from Rocklands, really. Girl on our Mind, Feist, Vertigo, Manneurheim roof, Pincon d’Herbes Arete, Tiger Claw, oh so many others.

All pretty world class. Rocklands has, to me, a couple of great grade ranges: 6B to 6C, 7B to 7C and 8A up. That's a great selection in the 6C-ish range. Pretty much anything harder requires crimping.

Yeah there was a really good selection in that sort of range. There were a few I missed out on (roof is on fire, got put off by the drop by the start, orange heart I couldn't crimp so had to use a whack sequence, a few things like that) but a magnificent selection of problems.

It was our honeymoon and it turned out to be such a good choice - awesome climbing, spent time with some brilliant people, saw and did lots of awesome non climbing stuff,  ace trip.

[r-man]

A slow year on the climbing front. Much of the year kerplunked by injury, then insect filming, then trying to get back into shape again. Still, it's been great seeing more people getting out around Lancs and the psyche is strong for next year...

Top three new problems put up (Didn't try anything anything outside my patch - trips were all wildlife related this year)

Bionic Harmonic - Sneaked this one in just before Christmas. Brilliant feeling to get out on rock again after all the rain, and actually get to the top of something. Two sessions this year plus an A4 sheet filled with beta time-travelling a session two years ago. Great heel-follow-hand shuffling, with a few unusual moves to add smile, then some compression-slapping to squeeze out a win. (Baffled why this crag doesn't see more attention, yet nearby Aqua Vista (limited esoterica) has loads of fans. It's got great rock, fast-drying, 10min walk in, problems through the grades.)

Starship Wilton Direct - A couple of sessions dedicated to cave excavation and boulder shifting resulted in not only making the original version nicer, but also making the direct no-footledge no-sidewall line possible. Good short, powerful stuff. Steepness on quarried rock is always a rarity. In some ways this was a consolation prize - it only took 20min to climb, but other nearby projects are still resisting... Maybe next year...

Turron Blando - Not quite as good as the others, but it's been a lean year... A satisfying launch from a gaston and a razor to the top. Having tried this two years previously I thought it would be seriously hard. Seems I just needed a different type of movement. It's ascents like this which keep you coming back to those desperate projects. You never know...


Top Spankings

The project - Many sessions. Some with a rope, some without. Some with psyche, some without. Every time I failed, I went home and dreamed up another idea. Which is odd, as there are so few holds. I don't know if I can do this one, but it would be amazing if it worked... Anyway, maybe next year...

[fried]

Top four boulder probems, Font.

Le Porte à Faux 5+ Roche aux Sabots - The perfect end to a beautiful May spring day, a realisation of how very slight body position changes make all the difference.

L'Angle du Serac 6B+ Isatis - Nice problem, good company and I hadn't even planned on trying it.

Le Surplomb de Leproux 6A Elephant - The only problem I did from my secret tick list in fantastic style with a grovelling belly flop top out.

Cristalline 4+ Rocher Fin - I've been trying this as long as I've been climbing in the forest, beautiful but hideously polished. So happy to get this one.

[Luke Owens]

Top 5 boulder problems (UK)

Hang 'Em High (7A) - Porth Nefoedd
Tempest (7A) - Tanygrisiau
Fur Trade (6C)- Porth Nefoedd
Made In Heaven (6B+) - Porth Ysgo
Le Grand Bleau (7A) - Fontainfawr

Top 5 sport routes (UK)

Cruella Deville (7b) - Castell-Y-Gwynt
The Screaming Skull (7b) - Llanymynech
The Desolation of Smaug! (6c) - Twll Mawr
Buoys will be Buoys (6b+) - Portland
Trad Free World (6b) - Portland

Top three routes (Abroad)

Angel Dust (7a+) - Ceuse
La Galère (7a) - Ceuse
Silmarils (6c) - Ceuse

Top three new routes

The Thing That Should Not Be (7b+) - Diamond
The Call of Cthulhu - (7a+) - Diamond
R'lyeh (6c) - Diamond

Top Spankings

Flowers for the Dead at Dinbren (again) - reached session number 10 on it and felt no progress over the previous 5 sessions, wasn't on it consistently enough to do it but it broke my spirit for redpointing at my limit back in June.

Anything on the Grit

Anything that involved power endurance

[JackAus]

502 climbs done this year. Up from 318 in 2014.

Best 3 problems.

1. 2000 Light Years From Home V5 The Fear Factory, Sydney.
8m rounded arete over hospital landing. First saw this back in 2013 when I fisrt went to the Factory. Its a huge imposing arete that looks over the walk in to the crag. Wanted to do it since the moment I laid eyes on it. Did it in 2 sessions, 1st on rope cleaning and working out sequence then 2nd months later back on rope to remember sequence then it went first go over pads.



2. Rocksteady Teddy V5 The Fear Factory, Sydney.
5m slab that, once again I tried back in 2013 with no luck. Since moving to Sydney the Factory has been a regular haunt and after many MANY many sessions, this fearsome beast finally was conqured.............. Love it. No pic unfortunatley.

3. Single Female Lawyer V6 North Black, Canberra.
Ultra-classic compression arete. Great moves, great feature, great rock. Kind of sad that I flashed it.




Best 2 problems put up. I put up a few more but nothing noteworthy... Both of these in contention for best 3 problems category.

1. The Circus V6 Flat Rock, Nowra.
3m compression arete witha  very off balance pogo dyno to finish. Great little problem, 3 moves from a sitter and each move is tough. Another one that I found in Feb 14. And tried ALOT! Came back this winter with this being one of my goals for a weekend and did it. Still wasn't easy but a great problem.



2. Pow V5 Flat Rock, Nowra.
8m slightly overhanging face climb. Found it back in winter 2014, cleaned it on rope and did the lower half over pads (wanted to do it ground up at the time) but never got around to finishing it off. Jumped on a rope this week, cleaned it again, did all the moves on rope then ticked it first go without pads.



Top spankings.

DWS project.... Still.
Finally made progress and then I flipped off but then can't get that move again...   Couple more days......

Rocket Man V10.
2 very low percentage moves for me. Some times I get unbelievably close and others it feels desperate.

Paul's Roof V9.
3rd go ever, fluked my way through the crux but dropped off because I'd dabbed earlier, then it took me another 3 sessions to get to the same high point in A LOT less control...

[Will Hunt]

LET WAFFLE COMMENCE!

Top Boulder Problems, UK

Racing Raymond, Eldwick - Subtle, techy food for the soul.

The Dark Ark, Harmer's Wood
Warmed up and was aware that I was feeling good and quite dialled into CheshireStyle. Andy fed me the beta all the way and I floated up, not really aware of anything other than the moves (which I now have absolutely no recollection of). Dreamlike. Can't recommend it enough.

Colt, Anston Stones
Thought it was too powerful for me and was totally made up to do it.

Moon Madness, Great Wolfrey
A great Clarkey find. The last move feels sensational. The kind of climb you could do again and again and again.

Mark's Roof, Gardoms
I had it in mind to attempt a flash and couldn't quite believe I had done it. I think the reason this was so enjoyable was that it took every gram of energy I had. Had any one variable gone differently - a foot placement a few millimetres off/a hand slap half a centimetre short/a split second too long between two moves - it would have ended in failure...but somehow it didn't.

Underhand Extension, Almscliff
Hardest thing I did all year (on paper at least) and, in a similar fashion to Mark's Roof, it only just happened. The big cut loose on the last move with half a pad and no spotter will live in the memory.

McNab Sit Start, Lord's Seat
Hadn't tried this before. Its probably only 7B or a very soft 7B+. It doesn't add lots of difficulty to what is already a very good stand but it does add something. Similar to adding the extension to Underhand, doing the sit start is like adding umami to a dish - it doesn't change the flavour, just makes it more rounded. The sprinkles on the icing on the cake.


Top Boulder Problems, Abroad
Big Jim
Concept


Top Trad Cragging Day
A day out on easy climbs at a freezing cold Grey Crag (Buttermere) in early May. At the time I was freezing cold, the wind was howling, the crag was damp, the walk in had been a fucking slog, and psyche was riding at a low ebb. In hindsight it was great to be out at a great crag with a great friend. Highlights were Dexter Wall and Return with a Vengeance.


Top Highballs

Make My Heart Fly, Yeadon
I've done this at least 4 times now and it's only 5+/6A. Nevertheless it's crux, a very high step with nothing for your hands but the rounded top, makes me shit myself every single time.

Larkin's Right, Lord's Seat
Wanted to do it for ages and it did not disappoint. A sweaty fight on cruel hand jams.

 
Under the Awning, Sypeland
Ridiculous. Don't know what I was thinking. At the crag on my own with shit pads. The crux is pulling on a hollow flake, above a spine-wrecking landing, through a roof, to a damp green rail which I hadn't inspected or brushed, and convincing yourself that the flake isn't going to unexpectedly break. Why?

Walter's Rib, Great Wolfrey
The midges were swarming. So bad in fact that having walked in with lots of kit, I would happily have just walked straight back out - but then Dave started bloody climbing and I didn't have any choice but to follow.
 
The Verge of Tranquility, Rylstone
I can't remember much about the individual moves but I can remember it feeling insecure and demanding all the way to the top (I recall the top scoop was scrittly and not great). At the time it didn't feel particularly full-on but in retrospect it was definitely harder than Psycho, albeit not as high, though with a slightly slopy landing. A bit thinner and more "moorland" with trickier, less obvious route finding. Essential stuff.


Doug-less, Roaches
Neglected but fabulous. Never seen a whiff of 6B. I thought it was worth 6C or 6B+ minimum.
http://t.co/bneXXxDMej

I'll Bet She Does, Simon's Seat
I assumed, like so many others, that this would be harder and scarier than its neighbour on the arete. The difference in difficulty between the two is stark. A juggy, positive romp a good way off the deck after one 6a move at ground level!


Top New Routes/Problems - of the 40 or so new problems and routes this year, these are the good 'uns.

Our Chapel, Yeadon - Lowball and thuggy. Better than it looks. Felt hard.



The Cestrian, Yeadon - All the time I was looking for unclimbed problems, this is what I was looking for.


The Arkenstone, Yeadon - Similar to the Cestrian. Maybe a little harder?


Black Annis, Sutton - The process was novel as this was the first time I'd headpointed something. The resulting route was worth a  star or two for about 10 minutes before my partner cleaned the top out for the direct finish - at about HVS!

The Prodigal Sons, Harmer's Wood


The Wall of the Wild, and The Oyster Catcher, Sigsworth



Top Pissing About
Stag do trip to do Snakes and Ladders. The craic was absolutely without mercy - great.

Chickens Go In, Pies Come Out - Flared chimney cave back and foot traverse at Hen Stones. Busted a gut both trying it and laughing at it.


Top Spankings
Font. Terrible trip from a tactical perspective. Tried to do too much climbing each day, getting crap skin, and sore elbows, and ultimately not really getting up anything. Got close to lots of problems but actually finished very few. The take home lesson from this was that if you're going to go away on a bouldering holiday then don't treat each day like its your one day out a week on the weekend at home. Plan to climb all week, pick your problems and venues sensibly according to the conditions, hoover up the beta, and climb things quickly and efficiently. Ben had a very successful trip with lots of things ticked - I would argue his trip could have been even better (ticking Crazy Horse and l'Aerodynamite perhaps?) if we'd been more tactical - we can discuss tonight if you're reading this

[Wil]

An injured wrist got in the way of some major goals and meant I didn't climb much for the last 6 months of the year, but still had a decent 12 months.

Top three trad routes/soloes UK

Grand Wall - Squamish. Was lucky enough to have a local belay me up and onsighted every pitch :-)
Zeppelin, Mother Carey's. Always wanted to do this and it was mega steady so I could just enjoy the experience.
Quietus - Stanage. Onsighted on my 30th birthday, after waiting more than 10 years. Glad to have onsighted it, but was the cause of my wrist injury.

Top three sport routes
I don't know the names of any of these, so just reminiscing for my own benefit.
Had a very soggy trip to Sicily and lots was seeping. I was obviously so annoyed I didn't put anything in my logbook, my favourite was a 6b+ on one of the seafront crags.
Did a great 10b at Murrin Park in Squamish, and Jeff and the Giant Reach was cool too.

Top Spankings

No Name Road - Murrin Park. My head was totally not in gear and I was lacking the fitness for face climbing. Total brain freeze on this one, despite none of the moves I did being that hard.
New Dawn - Not a complete spanking, but further away from it than I would have liked, then didn't get a chance to revisit. Next year perhaps.
White Heat near Mother Carey's. An E5 I'd spotted years ago and was always curious about. Made very slow progress to halfway and got a bit psyched out as the climbing and gear got thinner. Lowered off then toproped to get the gear, took quite a few falls even on toprope!

This all sounds like I didn't do much, but I had some great days out. Good trip to Pembroke at Easter, with lots of wishlist classics ticked. A day at Stanage trying to do 30 E-grade routes in a day (Did 24, 33 E-points before the pub called, including a lot of classics like Impossible Slab, Wuthering, Quietus, Desperation, Left Unconquerable, The Vice and more with about 16 different partners and more supporters    ) Finally did a few routes on Kinder, did the Gates and the Corner on the Cromlech. Onsighted 7b a couple of times.

[Fiend]

Those Yeadon problems do actually look really good.

I couldn't get near the start of I'll Bet She Does during the mid-October heatwave 

[Will Hunt]

I couldn't get near the start of I'll Bet She Does during the mid-October heatwave 

Start right hand in an undercut, slap up to a big flat crimp that you can use on the arête problem also. Left hand crimp the broken chicken head and reach up directly above you to another nice crimp.

[Gus]

Well then, time to get your psyche on! Loving the posts so far. I've been holding out for some good weather/ connies in the last few days of 2015 but that's not really happened.

2015 was pretty manic for me, and started off with me hobbling around on crutches after having a new f***ing hip!!! As such there's not much bouldering action (although if I hadn't slid off the top of "Brad's Rib" the other day that would be in there, can't believe I've not climbed at Stanton Moor before, it's ace!) I've substituted UK boulders for Deep Water Solo's!

Top three boulder probs, UK Deep Water Solo's
"Exultation" E3 5c, Stennis Ford, Pembroke: Wow, it's flippin' good this! One of the best in the UK at or around the grade. Done with a good crew of DWS addicts giggling and heckling all the way!

"Whiplash" 7c, Cova Del Diablo, Mallorca: Had an awesome trip to Mallorca with what seemed like most of the UK scene. Tried this before in super smeggy connies and it was pretty much impossible. This time it was in great nick and dead steady, but so much fun on a magical late afternoon session at Diablo.

"Morning Glory" 7a+, Tower of Falcons, Mallorca: More group DWS waddage. Ignored the "don't climb it in the sun" advice and got fried and very sweaty, but so much banter along the way. It ends up jumping in from a cave to finish so it seemed rude not  to throw yourself at a spicy but doable 7c+, or a seemingly impossible 7b+. Either way your going in the sooooooouuuup!  Can't wait to get back to Mallorca!

Top three (two) boulder probs, abroad
"Los Guerrerros" 6c, La Pedriza, Spain: At Easter I found myself in La Pedriza, felt pretty spicy bouldering only 3 or 4 months into my hip recovery, but I just had to do this one. Hurly burly overhanging scenes followed by a full on slopey rock over on my new hip. Super Satisfying and quite high so exciting scenes!

"El Meastro de la Luz" 6b+, La Pedriza again: Similar scenes really, not the best idea in the world to be bouldering but couldn't let a chance to climb in La Pedriza pass me by. YOLO!

Top three trad routes/soloes UK
"Killerkranky" E5 6a/b, Scimitar Ridge, Wales: As the year went on  I started to get some serious Trad psyche back. I'd sacked off onsight trad climbing with my knackered hip for fear of getting myself into a position that I couldn't get out of, as I basically couldn't use my leg properly, but with better movement and strength coming back it was great to be back in the game. This was probably my third trad lead of the year and felt a bit weird/ scary, but it felt amazing to offer myself up again, and get back on the sharp onsight end!

"Yukan II" E7 6c, Nesscliffe: Did this just under 4 months after getting sliced open and re-hipped, with a bit of stubborn, blindly optimistic psyche! I head pointed it, as falling off at that stage wasn't really an option (I remember looking down at the runout and saying to myself "Don't f*ck this up Gus!) which I don't regret at all, it just demonstrates the importance of "right time, right route" when making these decisions. Felt ace to top out and tick one of my first "Gus 2.0" climbing goals with an E7 smash!

"Private Gripped" E6 6b, Staden Quarry: Every year I like to do at least 1 obscure route that doesn't see many ascents.They're normally on grit but this was mine for this year, and is like a grit route on limestone! Probably not the best route in the world, but one of those things you just do for a laugh/ a scare. It's a super bold number, with what I reckon might be a 15+ metre fall should you blow it. The pressure got to me a bit and I had to have a few internal words with myself to get through it. Think Guy got some footage which should be pretty funny!

Top three sport routes UK
"Wall of Evening Light" 7b+, The Diamond, Wales: An awesome route at an awesome crag. I was made up to get the flash on this, seeing as I was nowhere near fit. Big up to the beta providers who did a great job for me! I couldn't believe how pumped I was when arriving at the shake outs, and had to stay there for about 10 minutes to sort it out! What a mission!

"Laughing in the Rain" 7c, Craig y Biceps: My kind of crag!!! This is a bit of an obscure one in itself but a flipping' good one! Not much else to do at the crag of quality, but if you've got the minerals then go check this bad boy out! Was pretty surprised how powerful/ reach the start was, psyched to rattle it off quick!

"Phantom Zone Extension", 7c, Chapel Head Scar: Such a good crag, this was perfect timing for me as I was getting a bit bored of the Cheedale cornice scene, so it was great to go somewhere different and do some cranking. Still lots to do here so always keen to go back, if you've not been then check it! Watch out for ticks though!!

Top three routes abroad (any genre)
"Fiesta de Los Biceps" 7a, Riglos, Spain: Wooop woop! Jesus this was such a good laugh with a well good crew! So much fun, no wires, cams, threads or faff, just chunky, super steep, muggy climbing with tons of exposure! I was actually laughing to myself for most of the time whilst climbing this. SO good, with belay selfies, lycra, and good times heckling the other half of the crew who were on "Zulu Demente" across the way, and vice versa!

"Clases de France" 7c+ BoveDOS, Spain: After madrid and Pedriza we went to Costa Blanca, and with some intel from "our man in Spain" Gaz Parry, we checked out this lesser known crag. A strong looking eastern European cat put the clips in and made it look spicy, so I felt a bit rude campussing through the top part (I'd spent the last 3 months not climbing, just hanging off or pulling up on fingerboards). When I came down he said: "Easy Money for you...." which made me laugh. I didn't tell him about my hip op

"Aegialis" 7c, Kalymnos: This was a good one, I'd gone for the insight in 2014, when my hip was really bad but just thought "now or never." unfortunately the hip thing meant I couldn't twist in at all, so had to climb it all front on, which ended predictably in a big lob a move or two from easy ground. This time it was different, being able to twist my hips into the rock again felt great, I felt like a climber again! The only problem was I'd waited for the queues to go, and the route was in the full afternoon sun. It was boiling! about 8 metres from the top the world started spinning, and I started retching! I'd have to do two moves, pause and let everything stop spinning, then repeat. I just about managed to clip the chains and slump on the rope. Don't climb in the full Greek sun kids!!

Top three new route/prob put up
Nada, boo!!

Top Spankings
"Slap up/Fitz in" E5 6b, Hunstmans Leap: Hungover with the route in the full sun, doh! Put up a valiant fight, used up all my gear, got the the thread after the crux with no quick draws. Put a krab with a number 4 cam hanging off it on the thread, as that's all I had left, then promptly slipped off with a load of slack pulled up, unfortunately the weight of the cam had inverted the krab and I couldn't clip! Probably went about 20 metres! Good scenes!

"Vadage" 7c, Cala Sa Nau, Mallorca: Unfortunately the move I struggle with is about 15 metres above the soup, and I just can't figure it out/ reach. Had lots of fun trying this though, the last couple of 15m+ falls I don't even remember as I was so focused and psyched! It will be mine! I guess trying hard 15m above the drink is a good skill to have. (Speaking of trying hard above the soup, if you've not seen Theo falling off the top of "The Weatherman" on his Mallorca film, then so so. Outrageous!!

Right, that's it from me! Happy New Year! It's only the 1st Jan so hopefully plenty more of you cats have some good ticks and stories???!!

BIG UP!

[Doylo]

Nice one flashing WOEL fella. Not many have managed that yet.