Top three boulder probs, UKThumbelina 7A - Ina's rock
A fantastic day out with Dom, and one of the best buzzes I've gotten from climbing. Should be on anyone who's interested in highballing todo list. Will be back for Cornelius this year.
Mint Sauce 7C - Blackwell dale
This problem is Mint! One of the best problems on the peak limestone. keep meaning to post the video, hopefully i'll get round to it soon enough.
Rob's wall 7C - Eskdale fisherground
So the climb was 3 stars but what really made this make it to my top 3 was the area, just the most beautiful idyllic setting, so peaceful and tranquil. Was also the first time climbing on granite since I started climbing, and reminded me of the crags that I cut my teeth on (Dartmoor).
Honorable mentions;Joker, Throne of Zeus, Stone Temple Pilots, Pump up the Power, Feeding the pony, Spartacus, Brock the start, and oh so many more I can't keep listing them.
Top three boulder probs, abroadAll from Albarracin as that's the only place I've been this year (apart from 2 days in font where it rained on the drive up/down to/from Albarracin.
Zombie Nation 8A
Simply perfect, hardest thing I've ever done possibly (boulder wise that is)? really struggled on the last jump move and feel there a good few times before sealing the deal.
Pinturas Buldestres (sit) 7C+
If your going to Albarracin, this should be on your top 10 problems to do list, along with the previous and next problem! the last dyno is just phenomenal.
Aben razin 7C+
It says a lot about the boulder problem when its the front cover picture of the guide book, and rightly so. Its one of the most stunning and aesthetic boulders in the whole of the area, situated atop a peninsula, there is only one way up the giant, sized block. It will always remain in my memory, after spending 5 minuets pumping out on the final mantle, before building the courage to drag myself on top, only to realise, to my horror, I couldn't get back down.This was promptly followed by 30 minuets of walking round and round on top of the boulder looking for the best dismount.
honorable mentions; Zarzaparrilla, El Apeadero (sit), Titanic (sit), La Huella del Jabali, Garbancito (sit), Gitanic (sit), La Campana, Fight Club, El Varano
Top three sport routesMecca Ext. 8c
A good way to end the sport season. Glad to have put the demons to rest, after taking a bad fall last year on this and waking up in hospital
Barney Ragin' 8b+
The epitome of sustained wall climbing! Put up more of a fight than I was expecting and would recommend to anyone, along with the easier variant "love amongst..." who is looking for a technical challenge and not just pulling down on big holds!
Techno Prisoners 8b+
Adds three star (albeit morpho) climbing atop an already three star route! I can not recommend this route more to anyone who is not a midget. Another thing that took me by surprise was its length, 52 moves long and sustained all the way, I can attest to this having fallen from move 49 on one unlucky attempt.
honorable mentions;K5, Love Amongst the Butterflies, Revelations, The Auctioneer, Rumble in the Jungle, Four Door Dostoyevsky, Agent Provocateur, Boot Boys, all of these I would highly recommend to anybody.
Top new routeBody Snatchers 8b+
My only new route of the year, and the first time I've ever had to place bolts myself. So was a good learning experience. The route itself is a direct finish to the already desperate R'n'P, from the "rest" on R'n'P sustained moves lead you into the crux of snatch which then becomes the red point crux of the route.
Top new bouldersCave Slave 7C+
Extension to cave problem, starting as for ben's extension. busted out the tinfoil to be able to climb this one due to the perma wet jug on the back wall.
α (Alpha) 7C
At last, the glue held this time! Really made up with this one, should be on any peak limestone boulder list.
Blackout 7A+/B
Some really nicely sculpted hold (sculpted by nature that is not me!). I must admit, a little disappointed new beta got found and it is possible to do without jumping. The problem has become popular with quite a few repeats in just a few months after putting it up, and that made me feel good, just the satisfaction of others doing the problem and enjoying it.
Top SpankingsDevonshire ArmsMan this thing shut me down, think i had about 3 sessions just dedicated to this route alone after having done the links into k3 and powerplant, still didn't manage it, I just can't hold that undercut!
32 Having done the link from the 2nd bolt to the top on my first session(or was it second...) success seem imminent, 5 sessions of bad conditions later and I have tweaked a ligament in my knee, an injury that I feel still to today and must remain extremely cautious of drop knees.
