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Best of 2015 (Read 38212 times)

TobyD

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#25 Re: Best of 2015
December 23, 2015, 10:06:21 am
Top three trad routes/soloes UK
Not many to choose from, but...
Bionics Wall, New Mills Torrs Pumpy fun, nice venue.
Certain Surprise, Split Rock Quarry. ditto above comment!
Standard Stanage soloing circuit on a sunny evening; always a winner, however many times I do it. Which reminds me, haven't done rainbow bridge yet this year - NYE ascent?!


Top three sport routes UK
Ouijaboard 8a Cornice Cheedale.
Toys for the Boys 7c+, Cheedale. One of Cheedale's best (monos).
Sticky Wicket - Ashes link 8a, Kilnsey. Stupid arbitrary link up, great fun climbing.
and... The sea is a brown paper bag 7b+, Cheedale. Amazing route, absolutely nails.

Top three routes abroad (any genre)
Pipeline 7c OS, Sicily A small titbit of dry rock in a week of abysmal weather, the worst I've ever had on a sport climbing holiday
Planete Groove 8a Tarn Pretty soft but a great fun set of moves (but i'd say still 8a unless you're lanky)
Arachnide 7c OS, Tarn Techy fun, pleased to get this third day on feeling pretty knackered (and having just fallen off the 6c+ warm up)

Top Spankings
Crimson Dynamo, Split Rock
Overnight Sensation, Malham
Groove, Malham
Love Amongst the Butterflies, Cornice
and so many more...

GazM

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#26 Re: Best of 2015
December 23, 2015, 10:29:48 am
Done a fair bit of having to be an adult this year - house, wedding, job, dog - so climbing has been restricted to local stuff, no trips away and hardly any trad (time and weather being the main enemies). However, building a board and being a bit more structured about training has provided a few gains.  There's a distinctly Highland flavour:

Top three boulder probs, UK
Malcs Arete, Torridon - Finally ended a 6 year obsession. 
The Catch, Scatwell - My 1st 7B on a crisp cold March night. 
The Crack, Reiff in the Woods - An innocuous looking bastard in a stunning location (if you ignore the road 5 metres away). 
 
Top three sport routes UK
Too Old to be Famous, Goat Crag - Came together over two sessions back in March.  Snow on the hills, blue sky, dry rock, crag banter.  Sums up why I live up here.
Whinging Consultants, Brin - I decided to make this a pre-wedding project so put myself under unnecessary time pressure and went through the full projecting emotional arc before it succombed.   
Warm Brown Streak, Am Fasgadh - Perhaps not a great route per se, but another route that took me on the journey.  Felt impossible the first time I tried it.

Top two new route/prob put up
What's the Story Kildermorie? 6B and Crystal Methodist 6C, Strath Rusdale - Part of the ongoing (and very slow) development of a widespread jumble of granite erratics in the area. Perhaps not the best bouldering, but there's something deeply satisfying about beavering away at my own little obsession.   Need to pull my finger out and do more scrubbing.

Top Spankings
Trad climbing in general.  The weather has been desperate up here this year, but I probably need to make more of an effort to find psyched partners that want to climb similar stuff to me.

Doylo

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#27 Re: Best of 2015
December 23, 2015, 10:32:38 am
8B boulderer nearly falls off The File!

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#28 Re: Best of 2015
December 23, 2015, 10:41:25 am
In what tearing of the fabric of space-time did Richie Crouch end up standing under The File racking up!?  I had to read that twice to check it wasn't a piss take.

dave

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#29 Re: Best of 2015
December 23, 2015, 10:47:01 am
Good year really, even with elbow issue killing a bit of momentum in spring/early summer. Certainly based on numbers alone, more stuff done at 7c or 7c+ than before by a significant margin. Elbow grief aside I think I was reaping the benefits of a winter of Schoolroom stuff.

Top three boulder probs, UK

Panopticon - superb roof
River Of Life - excellent, satisfying do it after being close in spring but forced to abandon it with injury, then be able to come back in autumn.
Cosmic Wheels - great to go back up to this boulder after well over a decade. Still a battle.


Top three School probs, abroad

Too Fluffy - correct angle
Turd Reich - correct angle
Schoolboy - when it was too steep, brutal


Top three trad routes/soloes UK

Cyfrwy Arete - Cader Idris
Troutdale Pinnacle, Borrowdale
Pinnacle Ridge, St Sunday Crag -  first winter route in the UK I've done since 1998.


Top three sport routes UK

Step On It, Turkey Dip


Top three new route/prob put up

Foot-on version of Zippatricks - brilliant moves on this.


Top Spankings

Caviar - went back on it first time since 2009, could do it all straight off bar the start which I couldn't do. Blaming it on elbow grief.
Pump Up The Power - fell off tickling the top jug.
Peak limestone bouldering in general - got out load but did scarcely anything new. Was geared up for a renaissance year but elbow grief put the kibosh on the crucial early season momentum.

Andy F V2.0

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#30 Re: Best of 2015
December 23, 2015, 10:49:06 am
In what tearing of the fabric of space-time did Richie Crouch end up standing under The File racking up!?  I had to read that twice to check it wasn't a piss take.

When the fuck did Crouchie learn to jam? You don't get taught that in the Cave.

Doylo

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#31 Re: Best of 2015
December 23, 2015, 10:53:22 am
In what tearing of the fabric of space-time did Richie Crouch end up standing under The File racking up!?  I had to read that twice to check it wasn't a piss take.

When the fuck did Crouchie learn to jam? You don't get taught that in the Cave.

I'd guess he didn't jam on it once. Non proper climbers can layback it and use a few face holds. That's why it feels so nails.

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#32 Re: Best of 2015
December 23, 2015, 11:36:30 am
Top 3 trad routes/solos:
Point 5, Ben Nevis - perfect blue sky day and first no the route - don't think there's a better way to lose your Ben cherry?
The Shouting Stage, Penmaenbach - first route after shoulder fuckage and a massive relief to be able to climb again
Horny lil devil, Lulworth - perfect sun-kissed day out DWS'ing

Top 3 UK sport routes:
Mandela, Kilnsey - multi-season bugbear laid to rest
Licking Tarmac/Fisting Katie, Cheddar - gaffer tape jamming glove entertainment
Genuflection, Wallsend South - fun day in the sun
 
Top 3 routes abroad:
French Pillar, Oman - epic
Twinkie, RRG - even more fun than BOHICA if that's actually possible?
Montana Magica, Chulilla - first hard thing after shoulder fuckage

Top 3 boulder problems:
Lou Ferrino sans pocket - totally unexpected send for my first "short" 8A
Beachball, Secret Garden - felt so unlikely, then just worked
Can't think of any other notables - this must mean i need to boulder more next year!

Top 3 new routes:
Grand Canyon Extension, Devil's Gorge - cat's out the bag now
Beetroot & Creatine link-up, Devil's Gorge

Top 3 spankings:
Fisheye, Oliana - 10days of redpointing up to the same move at 28m was demoralising
Paradise Lost, RRG - anti-style on a warm day served me my arse on a plate big stylee!
Skunk Love, RRG - 11b slab. Multiple hangs to get to the top of this "6c"

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#33 Re: Best of 2015
December 23, 2015, 12:23:44 pm
Top three boulder probs, UK

Night of Lust - Ramshaw - 7A - I had a full on battle with this one, took me two sessions to work out my beta after finding others beta didn't work for me. Finally got it on third session on my own with my dog... Shouting at the A53! It's 7B All day long
Sheep Shifter - Cave Dale - 7B/+ - I really enjoyed my time in Cave Dale working this one after work on my own during the warm evenings of June.
Big Marine - Craig y Longridge - 7B - My first 7B Flash - I  loved my first trip to CyL, really like the style of climbing there and the vibe.

Top three sport routes, UK

Wild In Me - Raven Tor - 7C/+ - A project left over from 2014. I trained especially for this route over the winter before and it paid off, felt hard but stead on the send, I didn't put a foot wrong and it got me whet for a summer of sport climbing. A cracking little route.
Beginners Wall - 7B+ - Short, powerful, satisfying... what's not to like!? It's a perfect route for a boulderer.
Let's Get fossilised - Beginners Wall - 7C+ - Another gem from this wall. the difficulties lie in the first half, then you just have to calm the fook down and take it steady to the top... Well I didn't! I was overgripping, pumped, and nervous but I finished it and couldn't stop laughing afterwards... So pumped couldn't untie my knot... Proper redpoint scenes!

Top three spankings

Another year of being spanked by T-Crack!
Fossil Wall - Beginners Wall - 7C Dirty grovely crack line... One for next year.
Black, Sack & Crack’ - Blackwell Dale - 7B+ Don't look online for beta on this one!

T_B

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#34 Re: Best of 2015
December 23, 2015, 12:26:07 pm
This definitely felt like a breakthrough year for my bouldering, off the back of the re-opening of the Schoolroom and shared psyche with other folk aiming for similar objectives and also juggling family commitments (cheers Dave). I did more problems graded 7C+ and above this year than in all previous years combined. Didn't go abroad, hardly did any trad at all, but keeping it simple and focussed meant climbing was never really stressful, despite the usual lack of time.

Top three boulder probs, Grit
River of Life 7C+ -gritstone board climbing in that lovely windy April spell. Felt impossible at first then the sequence came together with Schoolroom pow.
Low Rider 7C+ - featured in my spankings list of 2011 when I spent five sessions on it. This year I was stronger, got a decent sequence and nailed in second session, though not without falling off the last move once.
Domes sitter 7B+/7C – not the hardest but a memorable evening that started in Cave Dale on Sheep Shifter and then saw me driving to Rowter for last light and the last of the spring grit bouldering season. Loved the sequence on this.

Top three boulder probs, Lime
Badger Badger Badger 8A – 6 sessions. Tried it in the summer and got close. Went on holiday then came back, trained and waited for cooler temps in September. A mega problem that plays to my strengths, but with a frustrating deadpoint. My first proper solid Font 8A bloc : )
The Pinch 7C – 6 sessions. Total battle. Probably as much conditions during the summer but I beat it into submission at the end of a long, dark evening. So chuffed to do this problem, as I find it desperate.
Pump up the Power 7C+ - never thought I’d do this. Linking into it might be my chance of snagging 8A+ ;-)

Top three boulder probs, Schoolroom
Mr Blobby the Swing Man 7C, pre correct  angle. Brutal.
Basic Ben 7C – my hardest on the 50 degree, back in 2001. Satisfying to repeat this.
The Schoolboy 7C – never did this “back in the day” despite trying. Proof that I’m stronger than I’ve ever been.

Top three sport routes UK
Caviar 8a+ - one evening in early May having spent a lot of days over the years on this. Did the bouldering and AnCap training and despatched in a session this year.
Step on It 7c+ - a nice little route.
One Ton Depot 7b+ - was a bit underwhelmed with Shipwreck Cove to be honest (dubious rock, dubious that it's bolted?!). Had a dog up the ‘classic’ (AKA unbalanced) 7c+ but blatantly not fit enough to dispatch in one morning session.

Top three trad routes/solos UK
Amorican VS, Pembroke – a magic day with Mrs T_B when we did this and some sea traversing
Barrel Traverse DWS – another enjoyable outing sans kids

Top three routes abroad (any genre)
Nowt

Top three new route/prob put up
Nowt

Top spankings
Zeke the Freak. I dunno. I think it’s probably just too fingery for me, but I will go on it again because of setting/ease of access
Lour Ferrino. Year 2. On paper I should be able to do this FFS! At least Robins gave me some crucial beta, which I think will make the difference. Hatchatrocity was a nice consolation prize.
Pump up the Powerband. Not strictly spanking as it’s given 8A+and I only had three sessions on it after doing PUTP, but I thought I was in with a chance. Slapped the gaston i.e. two moves from the finish, on one occasion. Know what I need to get this done and hopefully next spring I will.

« Last Edit: December 23, 2015, 12:32:04 pm by T_B »

jimmykay

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#35 Re: Best of 2015
December 23, 2015, 12:58:24 pm
Weird year for my climbing. Started the year by climbing an 8A, by April I'd gone mad and have kind of been on a break from climbing since June.

Top three boulder probs, UK

Diesel Power - Starting the year as I thought it would go on. I couldn't find anyone who wanted to drive up to North Wales from Birmingham so headed up on my own. Absolutely baltic (2nd January) Sat reading my book in my car with the heat on full and my boots tucked under the fans. I got out the car 4 times over the course of an hour. After a small beta change provided by some helpful locals it went in around an hour. It was one of those problems I never thought I'd be able to do.

Sam Tan - Literally had to get a bit crazy to psyche myself up for this one. After pulling into the launch position numerous times over the last 5 years, I finally did what my brain thought was the impossible.

Cosmic Wheels - After a really miserable trip to font we drove up to this beauty. Didn't quite have the skin to pull on the 2 starting crimps of Will - but it's not as though it was a waste of time walking up for this beauty. (I won't take the Mondo up there in future...)

Top three boulder probs, abroad

Awesome, awesome boulders.
Eclipse
Noir Desir
Pancras Assis


Top three trad routes/soloes UK

Star Gate - First trad climbing in 2 years, Mother Carey's great idea! E5's felt easy back then after a good few months of sport climbing. I was absolutely petrified on this. Despite the holds being bigger than the warm up jugs at the wall, I had absolutely no faith in any of the gear. Probably reduced my life expectancy by at least 3 years.

Brazen Buttress - Always wanted to do this after my first trip to Pembroke. It didn't disappoint. Most of the battle was with my head game again on this route.

Kaiser Wall - I wasn't a massive fan of this but as it was my only other trad route, it's nice to be able to fill this section this year. I was almost killed by a falling brick sized rock that was blown off the top as I was close to topping out.


Top three sport routes UK

I Punched Judy First
Walking with Barrence
Pump Hitler


Top three routes abroad (any genre)

Planete Causse - Absolutely class bucket pulling for what seemed like an eternity.
Alambic - More of the same


Top Spankings
Where do I begin?
Wax Museum
Fata Morgana - After falling off the last move (Yes I'm aware there are only 2 moves but the first is THE move) after a handful of attempts, I had my arse well and truly handed to me before the heavens opened and rained for 4 consecutive days - just long enough to see us to the end of our trip. Ha. Crap.
Western Eyes - 2 days after the Diesel Power send I headed to Burbage for this. Should have done it 2nd go but coudn't commit to the last move. 2 goes later I did commit but my foot popped and I ended up nailing my arm on the rock below. Lots of blood - but nothing broken. I also split 4 of my tips on that go... Didn't realise how ruined my skin had been before trying this.
Mussel Beach - Fell off the top again. The first time I'd tried this for around 4 years. Felt much easier though - Definitely going to try and get this done next year. That'd be nice... a first sport F8a in 3 years.
Dark Reservation - Lots of fruitless trips to Anston.
Mirf's Roof - Fell off the end. A lot.

dave

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#36 Re: Best of 2015
December 23, 2015, 01:29:29 pm
shared psyche with other folk aiming for similar objectives and also juggling family commitments (cheers Dave).

You're welcome. Not a bad year all round for Dad Squad.

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#37 Re: Best of 2015
December 23, 2015, 04:45:17 pm
Top 3 Boulder Problems Abroad:
(1) Molunk, Brione. So good.
(2) Megalight, Font. Class.
(3) Selection Door, Chironico.

Close # 4, 5 and 6: Clandestino and Orgasme Cosmique, Font. Sloper Attack, Chironico.

Top Boulder Problems at Home:
(1) Tokolosh, the Scree, Cape Town. Surprised to repeat this in a quick session. World class problem.
Didn't do all that many new problems in 2015.

Top 3 Spankings:
(1) Fallen Fighter sit, the Scree, Cape Town. So many sessions to repeat something I've done before.
(2) The Sound of Violence. So many sessions of fail.
(3) Multiple Swiss 7As that I couldn't get off the ground on.

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#38 Re: Best of 2015
December 23, 2015, 05:47:07 pm
Big up Dave climbing a trad route on Cader Idris. The only UKBer to do so this year?

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#39 Re: Best of 2015
December 23, 2015, 06:21:57 pm
Top 3 Trad Routes:

Right Wall- Every bit as good as I expected, I climbed much better than I thought I would too, which is nice. Bolder but easier than expected.

Bat out of Hell- Every time I've been to Higgar Tor I've had some of my best ever days climbing. This route is awesome.

Central Wall- At Kilnsey. Everything that's awesome/horrible about trad climbing; loose and dirty with a safe runout.

Top 3 Sport Routes:

Comedy- Great fun swinging around like a monkey.

The Truth Drug- Very varied and underrated.

Space Race- Probably my favourite sport route to date.

Top three Boulders:

Joker's Wall Traverse-Had some good training sessions on this on rainy days, great fun going the other way too.

Philleas Fogg- More people should climb in the NY moors, it's awesome

The Sheriff- Looks shit but really good.

Top Spankings:

Bush Bully- I refuse to believe anyone has ever done this.

Fluide- Get within an inch of the top but still don't feel close to doing it.

Anything at the Leeds Wall

Kingy

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#40 Re: Best of 2015
December 23, 2015, 07:17:06 pm
Top three boulder probs, UK

Hatch Life High 8A (Parisellas Cave, North Wales)
Jungle VIP 8A (Burrator Reservoir, Dartmoor)
Ovine Low Left 7C (Griff's Buttress, Blackwell Dale, Peak District)

Top three boulder probs, abroad

None

Top three trad routes/soloes UK

None

Top three sport routes UK

Hajj 8c (Raven Tor)
Monumental Armblaster 8b (Cheedale Cornice)
Predator 8b (Malham)

Top three routes abroad (any genre)

Just Do It (to first loweroff) 8a+/8b (Smith Rock, Oregon, USA) Did 14 times in total over 2 trips whilst trying the full route
Adios Sol 8b (Sector 45, Costa Blanca, Spain - where Gaz's FA 8c+ Supersonico is)
El Capataz Incapaz 8a (Chulilla, Spain) (my 2nd 8a onsight, even if its pretty soft  ;))

Top three new route/prob put up

The Terminator 8b+ (Malham)
Ben's Roof Superstart Circuit 8A (Raven Tor)

Top Spankings

Just Do It 8c+ (Smith Rock, Oregon) Whilst making good progress during 2 two week trips in Spring and autumn (fall?!), I didn't manage to get through the first crux from the ground, keen to go back when I can. Ideally I will need longer than 2 weeks but work don't allow this so I may have to put this back to when I potentially change jobs in the future and can grab a 6 week stint. A stunning line, not wasted time at all, enjoyed every minute of my attempts.

True North 8c (Kilnsey) Tried extensively every weekend pretty much over the summer up until my last session on 4 October! Thwarted ultimately by persistant wetness in crucial pockets in September once the route semi-dried out again after a deluge of biblical proportions appeared to have ended the season in late August. Also, I realised on my last session, I had been using the wrong beta for me with my feet too high on the crimpy section after the Full Tilt belay and also undercutting the block higher up. Psyched for a rematch next year! On the flip side, lapping Full Tilt is as good PE training as any I reckon

Hatchatrocity 8A (Parisellas Cave, North Wales) I was pleased to get through the flake match in November/ December once back from Smith Rock as I couldn't do this in Spring as my left back muscle around the rhomboid area was very sore and tender and I felt underpowered compared to my right arm. Had this looked at by a physio over the summer who managed to get it working again over 4 - 5 sessions. Was hopeful of getting the problem done before Christmas but then every weekend in November and early December it was pretty much wet and despite repeated attempts while drying key holds, no cigar then I sprained my ankle 10 days ago so out the game for a few weeks, there is always the beastmaker!

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#41 Re: Best of 2015
December 24, 2015, 04:31:24 am
Always a good thread, been a productive year:

Top three boulder probs, UK

- Barry Kingsize: Did this as a massive swing and slap from the last good hold. Two hours work to get the direction of the move right and success just as my arms started to fail. One of the best moves I've ever stuck.

- Dreamland: Really enjoyed this, weird slick holds and great moves.

- Horn Rib: Burly sloper slapping and a big finishing move, proper fun.

Top three boulder probs, abroad

- Black Wall: An awesome bit of climbing, technical, powerful and so bloody satisfying when it went. The sitter was surprisingly good too.

- Blind Ambition: Seven metres of Baring Head highball goodness with a crux way above the sand, pumped, on bad holds, shut the brain off and made the big slap for the finishing hold. Brilliant, and bouldering by the Cook Strait is about as atmospheric as it gets.

- Only the Good Die Young: The original line on this wall is really good too.

Top three trad routes/soloes UK highballs

- Crescent Arete: Why it's taken me so long to do this is beyond me, so good I ran back down and did it again. Essential.

- Baby Spice: The best problem at Ilkley? Probably, certainly my favourite after over a year living next door. Took 3 sessions of effort and a monster fall from the top move, missing my pads in the process. A real milestone for me, I wouldn't have got near a f7A+ in this style a few years ago.

- Vim: Not really a highball but gave me the fear thanks to crap pads and no spotter. Nice technical moves, Shipley is a gem of a crag.

Top three sport routes UK - Seeing as I only went once (Giggleswick South of all places), not going to pick any

Top three routes abroad (any genre)

- DWS in Ha Long Bay generally, but specifically the 6c on the 3 brothers wall, not sure of the name. A fantastic bit of bouldering off the boat into a pump inducing sprint to the finish.

Top three new route/prob put up

- Did a ~f6B on a boulder in the middle of a beach on Koh Samui. No idea if it'd been done, excellent despite the horrific heat. Made for a lot of confused looking beachgoers anyway.

Top Spankings

- Grape Nut: Specifically the top move, just couldn't get it sussed despite being able to get up there every time (that move off the ground is ace). Annoying unfinished business.

- DWS in Ha Long Bay. Whilst excellent I also found this quite hard work (read terrifying), and it turns out I'm terrible at diving as my horrendously bruised legs will testify.

- The heat in SE Asia: I might have really enjoyed the place but was so pleased to get back to cold weather.

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#42 Re: Best of 2015
December 24, 2015, 07:00:31 am
Dreamland is ace isn't it :) my favourite cliff problem.

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#43 Re: Best of 2015
December 24, 2015, 08:21:31 am
Nice selection Stokesy,

I've only done Dreamland once - got on it immediately after a sudden and intense hailstorm.  Never felt the rock so grippy - like the rock had been scoured clean by the hail stones. Never dared get back on in less magical conditions.

Agree that Horn Rib (if its the f7a+/b LHS eliminate at Caley you mean) is great.  Thuggy, slopey slapping is normally my anti-style but I really like the problem and it's one of the few problems at the grade I try to re-do every year. 

Vim is cool too - so many good aretes and walls with slightly unnerving finishes at Shipley.... which reminds me that  I must try to muster the courage to try Phil's Wall again (last go ended up in a hospital visit).

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#44 Re: Best of 2015
December 24, 2015, 09:51:10 am
Done more (volume) this year than last few years, but still not loads of problems. Had some good days, but only a few where I felt 'on it'. Hopefully better next year, and definitely keen for more Lakes and Wales action.

Top three boulder probs, UK
- Black Rhino, Howshaw. Great problem in a fantastic location.
- Sheep Shifter, Cave Dale. Very good, even though it's on limestone.
- Blackfoot, Rowsley Woods. Did it at Easter, felt like the first 'hard' problem I'd done since tearing my rotator cuff about 2 1/2 years before.

Top three boulder probs, abroad
- Rouse's Wall, Carrock Fell. This is just a really, really good problem. Fun day out with Dad Squadron.
- Flick of the Wrist, Tan y Grisiau. Probably as hard as I could have climbed at any point this year. A good day out which started sitting in the cafe at Stiniog watching the rain, only for it to turn out none of the climbing was wet.
- Death Clock, Lad Stones. Another good day out with Dad Squadron. Had wanted to do Warstarter, but stopped v. quickly when it became obvious I'd tweak a finger on it. Good fall back.

Top Spankings
- Hannibal, Stoney stinky piss trucker wank stop cave. Could do it in overlapping halves. Never linked it. Simply not strong enough. Three sessions, with conditions progressively worse each time. Hardly climbed on the last sesh. On my own, shit connies, not psyched. Might try again next spring while it's still cool and before the leaves are out.
- Zaff's Burbage. Dropped the top in the spring, dropped the top a couple of weeks ago. Not enough beans to link it all from the true start (both hands in pocket). Also warmed up terribly last time which has resulted in a week off to get my arms to settle down.

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#45 Re: Best of 2015
December 24, 2015, 01:22:06 pm
Top three boulder probs, UK

Voyager- Great problem, big line, lots of history. The sesh it went was an epic, 2 hour approach in waist high snow. Not done with this block yet.

Bewilderness- Not the most aesthetic line but it's big on good quality rock (even though I snapped a hold). The move off the undercut is HARD. Put a lot of effort in to getting this done, after work sessions, getting there for 7 and getting home at 1 in the morning. Props to Dan V, man he has put up a lot of hard problems in the UK

Monks life- don't really have to justify this one. Utterly amazing and something I aspired to when I was a kid but never really thought I would ever do it. Would love to go back and top it out. {funny that my pinky was too big for the mono at the start, so I had to sand down my finger a lot and lick it before each go}

Top three boulder probs, abroad

Boogalagga- what a problem. Again not done with this block

Riverbed- kind of mental process so nice to finish it off

Limited edition- just incredible. Top 10 boulders in the world?

Top three trad routes/soloes UK

Nowt- I planned to do loads of trad this summer in the lakes.... Never materialised. next year for sure!

Top three sport routes UK

Couple at hollywood bowl

Top three routes abroad (any genre)

N/A

Top three new route/prob put up

Losing my edge- nice one below Fluide at Brimham
Notionless- eliminate at Kilnsey, quite tough.

Top Spankings

Fluide- took a long time, glad to finally do it recently

Ill gotten gains- so hard for me. Bit out of reach and so sharpy for a fatty

General dissaray- well hard for the shorter gentlemen. Real close in autumn. Gunna concentrate on growing some this year and get it done

Will Hunt

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#46 Re: Best of 2015
December 24, 2015, 01:25:56 pm
Monks life

Just sayin'...


(Well done. Waddage!)

SA Chris

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#47 Re: Best of 2015
December 24, 2015, 02:04:40 pm
+1 on that. sanding down fingers and licking them - dedication. I now doubt my fat arthritic sausages would fit, so I'm not going to try it :)

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#48 Re: Best of 2015
December 24, 2015, 04:55:03 pm
Top 3 Boulder Problems Abroad:
(1) Molunk, Brione. So good.
(2) Megalight, Font. Class.
(3) Selection Door, Chironico.

Close # 4, 5 and 6: Clandestino and Orgasme Cosmique, Font. Sloper Attack, Chironico.

Top Boulder Problems at Home:
(1) Tokolosh, the Scree, Cape Town. Surprised to repeat this in a quick session. World class problem.
Didn't do all that many new problems in 2015.

Top 3 Spankings:
(1) Fallen Fighter sit, the Scree, Cape Town. So many sessions to repeat something I've done before.
(2) The Sound of Violence. So many sessions of fail.
(3) Multiple Swiss 7As that I couldn't get off the ground on.

Oooh, given some thought, I can actually add a couple of local (-ish, well Rocklands is fairly local for me) problems from earlier in the year:
(1) Sean's Roof at the Champside which was a multi-year nemesis. Really happy with this, probably the best local problem I did all year.
(2) A 7B of Kili Fischburgers at Taj Mahal that was really good and went down quick.
(3) Black Labour at Cedar Spine - thin and crimpy and nice to put it down in a session.

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#49 Re: Best of 2015
December 24, 2015, 09:08:19 pm
Didn't get out of Devon very much!

Top 3 New Boulder Problems (UK)

(1) The Knave, Bovey Woods
(2) Sleeper, The Orgasmatron
(3) Sweet Caroline, Becka Brook Boulders

Top 3 Existing Boulder Problems (UK)

(1) Black Swansong, Bovey Woods
(2) The Cowboy Butcher, Lustleigh
(3) Airstream, Bovey Woods

Top 3 New Sports Routes, UK

(1) Salami Wall, Churston
(2) Metal Wasp, Churston
(3) The Ripples of Power, Berry Head Quarry

Top 3 Deep Water Solos, UK

(1) Killa Gorilla, Berry Head
(2) MC Navigator, Berry Head Quarry
(3) Old Man's Ladder, Berry Head Quarry

Top 3 Sports Climbs Abroad

(1) Carlito, Las Devotas - Bielsa
(2) Personne, Las Devotas - Bielsa
(3) Aracnofilia, Las Devotas - Bielsa


 

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