[a dense loner]

Can the person going round sika-ing holds at Roche Abbey please stop doing it. It's obviously someone who's a decent climber trying to make the problems harder.

[masonwoods101]

Lots of stuff at impossible roof has been buggered recently and looks sika'ed up.... The 7c (name has something to do with cats) now seems impossible.....

[Seb]

Looks like more stuff has been done. The start too the 8c thingy has been half filled in.

[dave]

Mike mentioned this the other week, said something like it being mountain bikers who didn't like climbers clearing up their campfire spot or something like that. So apparently not climbers.

[Seb]

Can anything be done to clean the stuff off?

[tomtom]

That sounds like a weird and hard to do sort of revenge! Why not just smash some holds off??

[masonwoods101]

Im gonna burn their campfires in an act of revenge...

[Dolph]

So polish Dabe just told me about this last night and sent me a link to this thread. I am absolutely gutted about this!!! I have put so much of my life into that buttress and the climbs there.  It was bad enough that the 7c+ into the black got done a few months ago. Now it seems someone has targeted Setendipity. The starting edges and crucial edge just under the roof have been filled in. I ran there in my lunch break to have a look for myself the damage done to Serendipity. It been done very recently and with a textured epoxy resin. It still hadn't quite gone off yet. I tried to scrape at it with a key and I was making an impact, but this was not easy. I do not know it it would be possible to chip the epoxy out of both of these climbs. I have no experience with that? I would be up for trying to do something but I have very little time in my life arm. Also it seems this has been done at night and there are signs of a fresh fire right underneath, as if it it was done by fire light.

Who this is I have absolutely no idea. Every hold that had been targeted, could have been smashed off a lot more easily and cheaply with a rock or hammer. The Resin work is sloppy, but in a way, carefully done. There is none on the floor or surrounding rock. It could be a gamekeeper as I've been challenged before climbing at night on the light. Maybe they are fed up? That's a guess though. It could be a climber that hates the place or me?. I really have no idea. If we could find out who it was and why, we could do something to address the issue. As it is I would expect more is going to get done.

I am so angry about this if I ever catch who it is, heaven help me!!!'

Mike A

[masonwoods101]

If it is an act of vengance then i assume they are targetting chalked holds within reach of the floor... Its a bit hypocritical being annoyed at night climbing if they are using campfires to see what they are doing... Can sika be filed or use a dremmel?

[Dolph]

 Yes and no. The high good hold on into the Black is not really within easy reach and was done. The undercut on Serendipity/Serenity has been left and is easy to get to. None of this makes any sense. That's the worse thing about it all!!!!

I would have though it was worth having a go with a small hammer and chisel, being really careful I thing you could get back to the rock. I doubt the Rock was prepared properly. So fingers crossed it hasn't bonded well with the rock surface. Until you try I suppose you don't know. As soon as possible would be best for serendipity as it not quite gone off yet. I'm unsure about chiselling the stuff out and the damage if done wrong or badly, could completely wreck the problem. I cared less with into the black, but Serendipitg is very close to my heart and I still had a project based around it. 

[Dolph]

Purhaps Dense's comment is the closest about a decent climber trying to make the problems harder. Although that's crazy they're hard enough. Also the filled in holds on the 7c+ do not have chalk on them, like someone has tried to do it. kike I said it just doesn't make sense.

I think someone should try and do something about it though. We left Into the Black in fear it might escalate. Maybe all we did was show then this approach works? I really think more will get done and I suspect Apache Static would be next. Maybe showing that we would sort it out anyway would put them of. I'm totally desperate and out of ideas frankly?

[r-man]

Could you install a trail camera to catch the perps? They have night vision and are activated by movement.

Something like this - http://www.amazon.co.uk/VWTECH%C2%AE-Infrared-Trail-Hunting-Camera/dp/B00O9THPTC/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1454336437&sr=8-7&keywords=bushnell+trail+camera

Would have to be hidden though, or secured at the top of the crag.

[SamT]

Sounds bizarre.

I reckon a dremel (something like this)

https://www.howetools.co.uk/dremel-8200-1-35-f0138200jb-10-8v-multi-tool?utm_source=google_shopping&gclid=CNLD_7j21soCFYPnwgodGoQFgg

with the appropriate wire brush bit or file would be your best bet.

[a dense loner]

You know I'm always right Dolph, just takes everyone else a while to catch up

People are strange

[masonwoods101]

I wasnt aware the good hold had been filled on into the black, i just saw the starting gaston. You cant be that experienced a climber and think its cool to fill in holds. Im not bery familiar with the hold on serendipity so wouldnt want to make matters worse... Unless no one else lives close? (I live 15 to 20 mins away)

[masonwoods101]

Think ill get a dremmel and chisel off my dad and go have a look. If it isnt coming off easy ill leave it... Be there about half 7 tomorow night...

[danm]

Rob in the BMC office has just told me about this - I'm totally gutted for those of you who are passionate about these problems, what an absolute pisser!

Careful work with a Dremel may be worth a go. Depending on the resin used, it may also be possible to carefully heat it and remove it as it goes rubbery - this is one of the ways you can extract resin bolts. I've never tried it though and I think doing a few test runs first on some non-climbable rock would be a good idea to see if it works.

I think we can do something to publicise this as well so if it is a climber, they realise how wrong this is and stop asap. 

[Dolph]

I spoke with Rob about this to get some advice. We are going to put a small sign up, explaining that it is wrong and if anyone has an issue with regards climbing on this buttress to contact the BMC. That was the best we could come up with to try to reach out to a non climber who might have a problem.

That's great Dan info. I think the attitude of most people is to try to do something to restore the climbs. I heartbreaking that they will probably never be the same. I am willing to help out with this. Does anyone have any objects to trying?

Also any ideas to try to reach a climber, if it is one would be good. Also if people do go there and see something, or have seen, something suspicious please let us know.

This is an obvious first and nothing like this has been encountered before so unfortunately we are in new ground.

[rich d]

UKclimbing and also the nearest walls might not be a bad place to start.

[masonwoods101]

Well im heading up tonight to see if it comes off easy. Ill post up

[DAVETHOMAS90]

Well im heading up tonight to see if it comes off easy. Ill post up

Hi.

Would be super keen to travel over with you/lend a hand if possible. I haven't been for years, but used to rave about it back in the day. Keen to go back. Sounds labour intensive, but necessary, if it can be saved.

Seems to be some mention of petrol working if it's not fully cured.

Have PM'ed you anyway. Nether Edge.

Dave.

[DAVETHOMAS90]

Good luck with it Dave.

Anyone else from this side of town fancy heading over, PM me.

Dave T.

Nether Edge.

[masonwoods101]

Nice signs dolph.... So after an hour i tink ive fully cleaned the crimp rail on serendipity using a hammer and chisel and a wire brush. Didnt damage any rock but i may need to go back with a gentler and smaller brush to finish cleaning it. I started on the foot ledges below and got them mostly clean. Left because i heard loud noises and light coming from near he road (it was pitch black raining and scary) gonna head back friday with more kit to finish the job better in the day....
The glue was hard on the surface but very brittle under that and came away easy.... Was scared of breaking the crimp rail so took me ages to clean that. The glue on the foot holds sounded hollow so it deffinetely hasnt taken hold very well....
Will have to take ladders as im a short arse to reach anythibg higher
Would be brilliant if anyone could join me friday day. Pm me and ill send you my number....

[masonwoods101]

Also had an epiphany, ill never climb 8b+

[a dense loner]

Neither will Dolph, he's filled it all in trying to impress new comers to the crag