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Sika at Roche Abbey (Read 20012 times)

Dolph

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#25 Re: Sika at Roche Abbey
February 02, 2016, 09:45:45 pm
Fuck off Dense! I'm not in the mood, not about this.

Dolph

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#26 Re: Sika at Roche Abbey
February 02, 2016, 09:53:59 pm
Nice one Mason!!! It sounds like you've made a great start! I very busy up to Friday this week. My wife is working until late and I have to do all the sorting out of our kids. I'm heading there tomorrow with Dan to have a good look around with him. It's just a flying visit as I have to pick the kids up at 5:30.

I'm really beginning to think that this might be a game keeper, I got challenged once by someone who accused me of poaching and said that he had to check cars out park on the lane at night. He took my reg. It could be night climbing that is the problem. Hopefully he'll see the signs and get in touch with the BMC if it is.

On Friday if your heading back I will join you. Just pm me. It is probably best if someone who knows the climb/s and the holds is there.

Thanks for getting stuck in.

masonwoods101

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#27 Re: Sika at Roche Abbey
February 02, 2016, 10:34:08 pm
Shit job dolph
Edit. Late dick comment.
« Last Edit: February 02, 2016, 10:40:35 pm by masonwoods101 »

Dolph

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#28 Re: Sika at Roche Abbey
February 02, 2016, 10:37:00 pm

masonwoods101

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#29 Re: Sika at Roche Abbey
February 02, 2016, 10:37:37 pm
That was a reference to denses comment by the way sorry! Ill pm you. I never realised but you can directly see the farm house from the crag. They must beanle to see every flicker of a torch.... I saw their ligts going on and off in their house as i jumped with fear at every noise....

Dolph

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#30 Re: Sika at Roche Abbey
February 02, 2016, 10:41:34 pm
Yeah let's hope it's something like that and we can sort out a sensible arrangement to keep them happy.

For the first time since seeing getting the photos from Polish Dave (who went out of his way to put the signs up today btw). I'm actually starting to feel hopeful about sorting all this.

Yeah let's get stuck in of Friday. It's certainly no place to be on your own in the Dark.

masonwoods101

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#31 Re: Sika at Roche Abbey
February 02, 2016, 10:46:08 pm
I almost chickened out doing any work incase it made matters with the perp worse and rang the bmc but he didnt answer. Im worried if they are that annoyed they will smash the shit out of anything theh see instead

Dolph

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#32 Re: Sika at Roche Abbey
February 02, 2016, 10:58:57 pm
Oh Christ I hope not. At least with a crap fill in job at least there's hope!

Dolph

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#33 Re: Sika at Roche Abbey
February 02, 2016, 11:03:58 pm
I'm chatting with Dawid now, who has been there a lot at night and he is mentioning stuff which is making me think even more that climbing there at night is possibly upsetting people. I really think people should stop climbing there at night for now. Until we find out.

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#34 Re: Sika at Roche Abbey
February 02, 2016, 11:09:57 pm
Nice one Mason!!! It sounds like you've made a great start! I very busy up to Friday this week. My wife is working until late and I have to do all the sorting out of our kids. I'm heading there tomorrow with Dan to have a good look around with him. It's just a flying visit as I have to pick the kids up at 5:30.

I'm really beginning to think that this might be a game keeper, I got challenged once by someone who accused me of poaching and said that he had to check cars out park on the lane at night. He took my reg. It could be night climbing that is the problem. Hopefully he'll see the signs and get in touch with the BMC if it is.

On Friday if your heading back I will join you. Just pm me. It is probably best if someone who knows the climb/s and the holds is there.

Thanks for getting stuck in.

I think I remember this game keeper, big dog Sky didn't get on with

masonwoods101

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#35 Re: Sika at Roche Abbey
February 02, 2016, 11:12:25 pm
It's just weird that the holds have been filled in gradually. It started in the summer. The perp must have filled some and slowly filled in more as we carried on visiting or they got stronger and needed less holds. If it's the farm owner is it worth approaching him???

Dolph

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#36 Re: Sika at Roche Abbey
February 02, 2016, 11:22:51 pm
Yes it's all just weired. I'm not sure when Into the Black was actually done. I don't think it was done over time. After spending so much time there last winter I been staying away. Serendipity was done in one hit for sure, as other people where going there that I know off.

I really don't think it's a climber. There is a project hard line just right of Into the Black, which would now be the only way to the jug. That challenge was there.

I'm going to talk things through tomorrow and see what the BMC guys think. Maybe one of them, representing an official body would be best place to go and have a chat?
« Last Edit: February 02, 2016, 11:43:14 pm by Dolph »

masonwoods101

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#37 Re: Sika at Roche Abbey
February 02, 2016, 11:28:03 pm
Do we still clear the rest of the holds before we find who it is? In hindsight sorting access first may have been the wise approach... I pm you

Dolph

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#38 Re: Sika at Roche Abbey
February 02, 2016, 11:42:20 pm
Well yes except that whatever this is it still hasn't fully cured yet. I hope the cold damp weather is slowing it down. I think time is of the essence personally.

masonwoods101

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#39 Re: Sika at Roche Abbey
February 02, 2016, 11:47:06 pm
Possibly but also its a shit job...

r-man

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#40 Re: Sika at Roche Abbey
February 02, 2016, 11:48:19 pm
If poaching is one of the concerns and the BMC do manage to start a dialogue with landowners/gamepkeer, one thing that might help the locals look more favourably on climbers is the fact that at other venues climber presence has discouraged undesirable characters from frequenting the area. Just a thought.


masonwoods101

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#41 Re: Sika at Roche Abbey
February 03, 2016, 12:00:21 am
Who is so desperate for free meat they hang around near a sewerage centre near maltby... Is it not obvious we would rather pointlessly fall of lumps of stone than chase their sky rats... Coy and paste them that in an email... Thatll solve the problem

a dense loner

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#42 Re: Sika at Roche Abbey
February 03, 2016, 04:52:49 am
What do you mean late dick comment? Are you referring to my joke which would have been taken seriously by no one with an IQ over 70

a dense loner

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#43 Re: Sika at Roche Abbey
February 03, 2016, 04:56:35 am
Oh and to be honest I've never agreed with climbing in the dark in sensitive areas, or climbing in banned areas. Spoils it for everyone except the selfish person there doing the climbing. Maybe that's for another thread tho

masonwoods101

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#44 Re: Sika at Roche Abbey
February 03, 2016, 07:33:36 am
My comment was after someone elses

Dolph

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#45 Re: Sika at Roche Abbey
February 03, 2016, 09:09:01 am
 Let's stay on topic. Dense makes jokes that's what he does, normally he does it well. I was just feeling a bit raw about this topic. Sorry.

Oh and to be honest I've never agreed with climbing in the dark in sensitive areas, or climbing in banned areas. Spoils it for everyone except the selfish person there doing the climbing. Maybe that's for another thread tho

I think this is an important point. Night climbing at places like Anston Stones and Roche Abbey I don't think is a great idea. Access is improving in these areas and to a lot of folks Climbing at night with lights is classed as the same kind of nuisense behaviour as fire lighting etc.

With impossible roof, I never thought this was in a sensitive areas. Clearly though it's probably contributing to the problem. I never realised how visable it is. This should stop!

Bonjoy

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#46 Re: Sika at Roche Abbey
February 03, 2016, 01:39:22 pm
Oh and to be honest I've never agreed with climbing in the dark in sensitive areas, or climbing in banned areas. Spoils it for everyone except the selfish person there doing the climbing. Maybe that's for another thread tho
I agree about night climbing at banned venues but not the other bit. Where a crag is beyond hope of improved access (I'm chiefly thinking eatswood here and believe me every possible effort has been made to change the owner's mind) who are you spoiling it for by climbing there? Would it be better if everyone had done as they were told and nobody had set foot there in forty years? Who except for one miserable wanker would have benefitted? Where are these examples of obstinate small minded misers suddenly having a change of heart due to nobody visiting there precious crag for years? On the contrary, in my experience  antisocial misanthropes tend to be very pleased when you abide by their wishes and are hardly likely to suddenly decide they feel giving and sociable just because you've done so.
There are instances where a ban seems negotiable and the owner is not a closed book and there are instances where one can safely file a crag under 'lost cause'. In the latter case the only way of achieving any kind of access is by going to the crag. A blanket statement that people should not go to banned crags, at all, ever, is misguided, defeatist and in many cases contrary to the advice of the BMC access team.

a dense loner

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#47 Re: Sika at Roche Abbey
February 03, 2016, 04:13:48 pm
Who are you spoiling it for by going to places like eatswood? Quite simply everybody else. If you, not you per se, write on a thread on the interweb telling how to park at these banned places, how to get there etc then people who read this who have issues at their local favourite banned crag will start doing the same, ad infinitum. Then it's not a leap of faith for anyone who doesn't like climbers to visit a climbing site and find out about all the goings on in their back yard. You're so voracious about eatswood since it's a favourite area of yours where you've done a lot of problems, as Mike is with

So for me the best approach would be to not publicise these areas, don't claim them on 8a.bannedcragidontgiveafuck.com. Other people have different ideas tho

Bonjoy

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#48 Re: Sika at Roche Abbey
February 03, 2016, 04:55:34 pm
Make your mind up, do you object to people going to banned crags like you said, or to people talking about it on the internet? Did you mean what you said or not?

Quote
Who are you spoiling it for by going to... eatswood? Quite simply everyone else.
What?! If nobody is allowed by you to go then they aren't going to be climbing at eatswood ever, i.e. any change to the ban has zero effect on them, because they are never going to go there!

There's a point to be made about making sensitive info in posts on banned crags more difficult for non climbers to find easily, but this is a totally separate issue.

Dolph

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#49 Re: Sika at Roche Abbey
February 03, 2016, 09:44:07 pm
I agreed with Denses night climbing comment really. However I agree with Bonjoy about it not always being as simple as staying away from banned crags. Everyone has stayed away from Stone Mill and as far as I'm aware nothing has changed or ever will. It's very difficult to know what to do for the best though. Best advice has to be if in doubt, don't I suppose? This is an interesting debate, but for another topic perhaps?

With regards to the resin job at Impossible having looked at this today. I was really impressed with the work Dave has done so far. I really think Serendipity can be restored. In to the Black may be slightly harder, but I remain hopeful about this as well. We are going to go back on Friday and do some more.

Who and why this was done remains a mystery. The best guess is a disgruntled land owner or near by resident. There are Lilly to be two reasons for this:

The first is without doubt, night climbing. In the winter the crag is very visible from the house on the hill and the road. So please do not do this at this crag until we know for certain.

Second is parking at the very top of the hill opposite the path along the top. It has been witnessed that this can cause problems for cars coming up the hill meeting cars going down, as it's fairly blind. The lay-by at the top is a pull in. It is also narrow here and has caused problems for the farm machinery and Lorrys going to the sewage works. Please either park at the bottom, or further back towards the road at the top.

I'm not great with all this forum, social media stuff. So I would appreciate it if you would pass this on to anyone who goes there.

Thanks.

 

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