[T_B]

83.8Kg 

M -
T - Foundry - lunch. Warmed up traversing. Shoulder a bit 'weird'. 8Kg weight 2 x 6 x 7 front 3. Back 3 felt a bit risky. 2 x 2 x 7 on BM crimps. Did 2 x max hangs 10 secs on middle two lowest w/o weight. And momentarily held monos on bottom. Lots of rest between all attempts! Fingers felt good at least.
W - Made up 17-move circuit on Foundry on board. Did 6 sets with 4-5 mins rest i.e. need to reduce rest period. Just getting a feel for it really. Easyish session.
T -
F - Foundry lunch. Warmed up, then working out a Steve Maisch-ish type set. 4 x front 3 10secs with 25Kg on Moon F/board with approx 4mins rest. 3 x 10secs half crimp on lowest BM with 15Kg, 2 x 10secs middle two lowest BM no weight.
S - Tor - only had 2hrs. Quick go at Staminahumps. Then a few goes at PUTPband. 1st and best go fell going for gaston, but 15 mins rest not enough - subsequent 3 goes fell at big sidepull move.
S - P.M. School. Campusing with Mrs T_B who has re-joined. Campus board: double handed dynos (did 1-3-2-4-3-5-4), nearly 1-5-8, various grim locking exercises. Did some rings, finished with 3 purple circuits getting through the crux to move 33. Hard session.

Keen to keep trying PUTPband, but not got time next w/e. And it seems the grit is in. Psyched for Steve Maisch max hangs. Probably the strongest I ever have been at the mo.. sort of anticipating breaking!

[shark]

Thanks Tom

10.10-13

M.Noon. Malham with Steve Mac, Paul Reeve and Andy Cave. Cloud forecast so expecting good conditions. Unfortunately not to be as holds were badly condensed. So bad in fact that Steve failed to do Raindogs in a oner (and to make matters worse pulled a hold off his proj} and Paul and Andy could scarcely do Seventh Aardvark. I managed to get to third undercut from ground but then greased out of it. Dogged/bouldered other stuff instead. A wasted day when I could have been working. Slept most of the way home
T. Early AM Fingerboard. Sore tips. More tired from previous day than expected. Disappointing scores
W.Noon Foundry Campus board  Did 1-4-6 medium rungs three times and close to doing it on small rungs. Close to doing 1-4-7 on juggy rungs. Laddered up 1-3-5-7-9 on small rungs. As good a session as Ive ever had. Felt light and bouncy
T.
F. Malham with Steve, Paul and newboy John. Cons x 2 RPG x 1. Cloudy but still and warm with midges still making an appearnce. Run off at the top affected some of the last holds on the traverse and the finish. Tried towelling them but with limited success. Second redpoint managed to fight my way despite slippages to the final traverse but busted. Other goes didnt get to hold the horn. Disappointing again. Decided to leave it for ten days
S. Llanberis with Nick C. Warm up at the Pac Man boulder which wasnt as close to the Vaynol Car Park as I assumed. We both managed to do Karma Sutra V5. Tough start. Checked out a property that was for sale then up to Cromlech. Didnt get as out of breath as I thought I would. Was cold. A team on Left Wall. Nick did Resurrection instead of Right Wall but we both found it cold. Decided to make an early retreat and headed back home.
S.

Clock is ticking on the Oak now. Forecast to be dry this week so hopefully still OK next Monday. Going to boulder, fingerboard and campus till then       

[nai]

STG - Roof Warrior, Body Machine
MTG - bit of bouldering and start to develop killer endurance over winter
LTG Put killer endurance to good use next Spring


M - Back a  bit sore after lots of sitting and standing over weekend, gentle Aero at mini works 3x20mins
t rest
W - Aero on campus board. 3x15mins, would have been fine if I'd stopped then got a bit carried away and decided to do something for shoulders - On The Minute - 20 x 5 pullups (+ 10 pressups for 1st 10 reps)

th - a gentle ache in most of my upper body was full-on hurting by lunchtime.  Did find a partner for Friday at least, maybe I'd be ok in the morning.....

F - No, woke still hurting and knew chances of a RP today were slim.  On the positive side I did link kneebar to top fairly steadily and find a less strenuous way of doing the move right under the roof, the downside of that is the next move into the undercut being harder. Need to go back and see how it all feels when I can move without wincing.

SS rest (and (over)eat)

[petejh]

STG: Re-hab bicep tendon. Slab climbing. Soloing. Build chain resiliance for burly DT training further down the line.
MTG: Onsight attempts on The Hurting, Cathedral, Banana Wall, Anubis (this winter)
LTG: 8c (within 2.2 years)


M. V.floss shoulder; curls 3x12 (7Kg); eccentric curls 3x12 (12Kg). M.Pro
T. Bit of mobility; v.floss shoulder
W. Core&mobility workout; v.floss shoulder; curls 3x12 (7Kg); eccentric curls 3x12 (12Kg)
T. Slate, Gorbals area. Did a slabby 6b+ warm-up, Gorbals (E4 slab) and Men of Leisure (E4 slab). Fell off right at top of Gorbals when duffed the sequence. Redeemed myself on Men of Leisure - good reccomendation Fiend. Mobility.
F. Tremadog. Leg Break/Meshach/Blinkers link-up; An Argument Among Plankton (E3 steep slab). Aggravated bicep tendon a bit on Argument - a bit too steep and not enough slab. Great route though, surprisingly independant and immaculate rock. Tendon sore in evening.
S. Bought a wheat heat pack and used on shoulder.
S. Slate. Excellent day exploring Lost World and Mordor - now very psyched for some of Ray Kay's lower-angled loose adventures, Fiend..! Did Journey to the Centre of the Earth (6b? Such unlikely terrain for the grade!); Purple Haze (steep slabby runout E3 - amazing route!); Release the Kraken (dolerite 6b+ - best grade 6 I've done in the quarries? brilliant climbing). Ian Lloyd Jones really has contributed so much quality climbing to the quarries in recent years (as have many others). Heat pack.


Bit slack on the KB and TRX workouts. On reflection the aggravation following the Trem E3 felt like good inflammation, seems to have quickly died right down again. Fine line between worsening it and pushing it along. Powerful undercutting still seems a million years away.

[fried]

Not good.

M- Sick in bed
T - Sick at work
W /Th - Ditto
F - Felt like an indoor session but would've left me short on recovery time for the weekend.
S - Family stuff

Su - Buthiers piscine. I had a list of stuff I wanted to tick/ finish off. Succeeded in backing off some (un) scary topouts, failing repeatedly  on Ultrason despite doing the crux start, failing to get off the ground on a 6A sitter. Then got lost in the woods looking for a problem called Spider's paradise. Frustrating day, although my fingers feel sore today which is a good sign. Climbed crap, too overconfident...

[bigironhorse]

M - Fingerboard hangs, recovering from food poisoning so felt weak.
T - Works Easy Circuit
W -  Rest
T - Wave
F - Rest
S - Messed about at burbage south boulders for a bit, tried electrical storm a bit but it seemed a bit damp so binned it off. Walked over to burbage north to have a look at Zaff Skoczylas and to my surprise fired it off after an hour.
S - Rest

Shoulders have been feeling increasingly tweaky the past few weeks so gonna try and do a load of theraband stuff/stretching/ icing this week. Tennis elbow seems to have completely resolved YYFY!

[SA Chris]

Goals - usual

M - Nowt, worked evening
T - Nowt, worked evening
W - Wall session. Held up at work, so got to wall later than intended, and had to leave early for parent's evening. Had an OK session, ticked all new probs on 10 deg, except one grim one.
T - Weights, fairly light session
F -  Nothing I can recall
S - Afternoon outdoors. Conditions looked marginal, but managed to find a spot that was reasonably good. Warmed up then set to work on 2 projects. Managed to get up eliminate first, in spite of snapping the best hold I came up with some new beta and problem is probably now better without it. Only about 6b/c or so, might be harder if you are short or have weak fingers.
Next got on traverse. Ticked a while back, but devised a nasty eliminate where you have to match a dirty crimp rail. Success came only with use of an even shittier crimp as an intermediate on the hard move. Might be easier with a knee pad on a crucial scum. Again 6b/c. Next project is to link the two, which eluded me this time round. Finished off with some other stuff until skin was feeling worn, plus a bit of platforming on another project (currently soaking)
S - not much. Bit of antagonistics and core in evening.

[duncan]

STG: Don’t get injured. Strength work, fingerboard or bouldering, twice a week.. Rehab. finger.
MTG: E5 OS and 7b RP by end of year.
LTG: Long hard (for me) rock routes in the Alps, Dolomites, Picos and Scotland. 7b+ RP.

Missed a couple.

293
M, T: shoulder rehab. stuff (side-planks, bicep curl-military press, press-ups, etc.)
W: Developed an elbow tweak. Recurrence of a known issue so no great surprise. Weirdly not immediately attributable to climbing or training, so just took it easy for 3 days.
T - S: rest
S: Wintour’s with Conor.  EasyTrad. (to slabby E2). On way home noticed R. middle finger tweak. New issue, not a pulley or ligament, probably the joint itself. Pain on the back of the knuckle and a strange ‘sticking’ sensation when I straighten the finger. Not a trigger finger but felt a bit like it. Fragment of something in the joint? Anyone had anything like this? Odd it should occur after a day of gentle puntering, taking it easy on account of the elbow.

294
M - S: shoulder/elbow rehab. stuff; ice and gentle finger exercises.
S: very easy session at The Westway with the lad. 4 x routes to 5+

295
M: shoulder/elbow rehab. stuff; ice and gentle finger exercises most days.
T:
W: Westway. 4 x routes to 5+.
T:
F: Westway. 6 x routes to 6a+. Overcooked things slightly, finger sore and ‘sticky’ movement back again.
S:
S:

Deadhangs and bouldering on hold until finger settles a bit. Fingers are not usually a problem for me, and this is definitely a new thing, so still learning where the sweet spot is between doing nothing and too much. A bit gutted to miss last two weekends of mainly glorious weather. The ledge shuffling window has probably closed for 2015, 7b looking a little optimistic too. On the positive side, New Year trip to Chulillia booked and still have some free time over Christmas itself which could turn into a second trip if I can get my act together (and find anyone free at that time).

Pete, stick with it, steady progress by the sound of things. Like you say, some immediate discomfort is no bad thing and possibly necessary. As long as it doesn't feel much worse the following day then carry on.

[ashtond6]

STG - ?
MTG - 7b/+
LTG? - maybe 8a, but seems a bit hard & not sure ill have the drive to ever work one for a long time

M- Rest/still ill
T- Rest/still ill
W - Bouldered indoors, 60 move pure endurance & some V4s, still feeling ropey
T - rest
F- another interview & 7 hour drive 
S - Stoney West - RP 7a in my anti style and did some 6cs
S - RP 7a+/b - first of the grade in the UK & only took an hour or so 

Feeling quite psyched as that wasn't my limit & its nice to see some progression after being sick for the last 10 days or so
I'm building that pyramid, sad that sport season will be over soon

[petejh]

Ill = weight loss = float up 7a+?

[Wood FT]

every cloud. . .

[Fiend]

T. Slate, Gorbals area. Did a slabby 6b+ warm-up, Gorbals (E4 slab) and Men of Leisure (E4 slab). Fell off right at top of Gorbals when duffed the sequence. Redeemed myself on Men of Leisure - good reccomendation Fiend.

Nice one beast. Happy hooking at the start of MAL?? The top crux of Gorbals was pretty fierce I thought, I was proper scrabbling...

[filz]

Goals: unchanged

M: yoga. Hadn't done it in a while. I was quite stiff, should do it more often.
T: power endurance session on the board
W: some bodyweight and rings exercises: pushups, jumps, handstands, rows, ab wheel
T: board session with short, hard problems
F: rest
S: rain all day. I went with to the opening of a new gym in Florence. Nice afternoon, though the gym has too much vertical walls and too few overhangs for my tastes
S: rest

I'm tired from previous weeks' training and should take some rest, but since the weather doesn't seem good for the next weekend I think I'll keep training

[AJM]

S: Wintour’s with Conor.  EasyTrad. (to slabby E2). On way home noticed R. middle finger tweak. New issue, not a pulley or ligament, probably the joint itself. Pain on the back of the knuckle and a strange ‘sticking’ sensation when I straighten the finger. Not a trigger finger but felt a bit like it. Fragment of something in the joint? Anyone had anything like this? Odd it should occur after a day of gentle puntering, taking it easy on account of the elbow.

The sticking thing I had for a bit but in the other direction (wouldn't bend - usually after a period of inactivity, mornings were worst) and the physio diagnosis was inflammation of the ligament iirc

[ashtond6]

Haha... I lost 1 kg before illness. 86kg two weeks ago,  weigh in due this week 😃

Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk

[Luke Owens]

M: Rest

T: Boardroom - Did a load of easy steep routes trying to sort out my massive weakness in this area. Got shut down on anything harder than 6b in a sweaty greasy mess. Felt good to attack my weakness though.

W: Rest

T: Local crag 5 mins from my house to check out a project that was rumored to be 7c - 8a. 6b+ flash as a warm up then one go up the proj. Managed all but one move. Really short hard route, powerful, technical and thin. Going to stick at it! Felt harder than anything I've climbed before.

F: Little one's 3rd Birthday. Took him down to Paulton's Park, he was psyched! Great day out.

S: Same as above, tired driving back late.

S: Little Orme - Back on the project, 2 goes up. Now done all the moves and short links. Nice to know it's possible for me but it is really hard, again harder than I've climbed before, mate reckoned it was 7c just for the first crux.

Went down to the Diamond to belay mate on his proj, abed in for the first time, harrowing and tiring experiance. Had an on-sight go of mates route to the first lower-off 6c+ish - failed as too tired.

[rodma]

m: rest
t: wall session. warm up on the campus board (which has proper spacing rather than my home board, which has climbingworks/euro spacing) and feel reasonably good. manage to tag the 8th rung both sides first try at 1-5-8 and feel really strong on one-arm catch stuff. manage more than two-moves in a row on th bosi-testpiece. stop early cos i feel dangerously strong (doing one move on the bosi-testpiece is a rarity for me).
w: campus board half-crimpathon at home. am beasted from yesterday so was right to stop early.
t: nowt
f: nowt
s: nowt
s: wall session with campus warm-up. reasonably strong, but not as good as tuesday's session. don't risk any one-arm shenanigans, i think once a week is risky enough.

weird week. didn't get a single good night's sleep due to snuffly child not sleeping properly. definitely has an effect on recovery/energy levels.

[cheque]

T: Local crag 5 mins from my house to check out a project that was rumored to be 7c - 8a. 6b+ flash as a warm up then one go up the proj. Managed all but one move. Really short hard route, powerful, technical and thin. Going to stick at it! Felt harder than anything I've climbed before.

Sounds exciting!

STG- Extremes/ 7s on grit this season. Wall of Horrors before it's too hot again.

MTG- 7b/+ in 2016

LTG- 8a

M-F- Rest. Jetlagged, tired. Got new car.

Sa- Gardom's. A bit damp. Really midgey. Did two VSs then Hearse Arete, which I've wanted to do pretty much since I started climbing  Climbed really well, felt great- psyched for grit trad now. Would have done more but HA took ages due to someone starting on the VS that crosses it/ climbs part of the same route after I'd set off... 

Su-- Rest. Watched football.

I missed three weeks out as I went to the US and have been writing a trip report blog-style post that's really pretty long since I came back. If there are no objections I'll post it later today.

[tommytwotone]

LTG: Font 7b


M: Depot after work on V4-V6 wood circuit. Good set, but whole session felt a bit flat.
T: Was psyched for gym on lunch but had meeting so didn't get to go.
W: Gym on lunch, 500m @ 1:45 pace warmup then 25 x each of pull-up, push-up, 20kg goblet squat, 20kg clean & press, 24" box jump and burpee.
T: Depot after work with a bit of DOMs from previous day. Focused on my anti-style of the roof and got thoroughly beaten down.
F: Nowt.
S: Nowt.
S: Nowt. Had a pass but got the sense that due to household stress levels I would be unwise to take advantage of it!

[mr chaz]

STG Get on some 8As
LTG Do an 8A

M. Boulder Central session. Climbed mainly on the Beastmaker 45degree board, bit of campussing and a bit of bouldering after.
T.
W. Got a message from work telling me that a ground investigation company had called them asking for me. Tracked them down and called back, arranged a job interview for the next day.
T. Went to interview........          Got the frickin job! Proper graduate position with a proper graduate salary, mixture of office and site based work, possibility of moving out of my parents gaff and house sharing with my friends, absolutely psyched. Quick session at Boulder Central on way home, climbed terribly but couldn't care less.
F.
S. Cheedale Cornice. Few goes on Jug Jockey 7c+, so nearly held the crux but didn't quite happen. Then a repeat of Whose Line Is It Anyway 7a+.
S. Plantation bouldering. Turned up just in time to see the Beastly Squirrel send The Ace. Decided to get on the Joker, tried for about 45mins but did not once take my weight on the holds convincingly - oh well! Few laps of Green Traverse then over to Brad Pit. First time looking at this, twice I got my heel in the right place and touched the next hold but couldn't hold it. Conditions were not ideal, warm and still.

Excellent week. After graduating in July the job hunt turned out not to be too bleak for myself and has gone pretty much to plan, wanted to be out of my part time hotel job by Christmas. Was also nice to have been approached by a company, wasn't expecting that. Then finished off with an enjoyable trip, in spite of not climbing much, to the Peak with old and new uni friends. Opened the account on two lines I have long aspired to climb, Brad Pit and The Joker.

[SA Chris]

weird week. didn't get a single good night's sleep due to snuffly child not sleeping properly.

How old is said child? They seem to average a cold every two weeks when little.

[rodma]

weird week. didn't get a single good night's sleep due to snuffly child not sleeping properly.

How old is said child? They seem to average a cold every two weeks when little.

One year old.

I'm pretty sure attending nursery has something to do with it

[ashtond6]

T. Went to interview........          Got the frickin job! Proper graduate position with a proper graduate salary, mixture of office and site based work, possibility of moving out of my parents gaff and house sharing with my friends, absolutely psyched.

well done that man! 

[SA Chris]

One year old.

Still in your room?

Our eldest was ill pretty much the whole first 6 months of nursery, but has been relatively well (touch wood - just the occasional snotty nose) ever since.

[rodma]

One year old.

Still in your room?

Our eldest was ill pretty much the whole first 6 months of nursery, but has been relatively well (touch wood - just the occasional snotty nose) ever since.

Nah, in his own room since he was 6 months old. Be hasn't been too bad illness wise, maybe only 3 or so times