[Nibile]

I'm glad you liked it.
Give a call next time you're around!
 

[webbo]

 I would love to go back and the place we stayed at Valdonica was great. However as the Missus has ordered about a tankers worth of their wine it might be some time before we can afford it again.

[Nibile]

 

[cowboyhat]

Now been up to final traverse eleven times in last six sessions but perhaps only two of those redpoint attempts could be described as OK conditions. Naturally getting a bit jaded. Have provisionally arranged to go up tomorrow afternoon/evening when weather looks a bit better. Tempted to have a break from it until temperature drops.    Work is also building up.

Here's footage of my two best goes from yesterday:




   

Simon can you climb a bit quicker? Its very, er methodical. You must have it all dialed.

Someone suggested this to me recently and next go I did the proj.

[tomtom]

It has been suggested before.... and wasn't well received...

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,26303.msg499504.html#msg499504

[Rocksteady]

Simon can you climb a bit quicker? Its very, er methodical. You must have it all dialed.

Someone suggested this to me recently and next go I did the proj.

I was going to make the same observation but sometimes it's one thing seeing it from a distance and another thing actually doing it, especially when a climb is very body-tensiony or has poor/precise footholds.

Anyway, this thread is great psyche, good luck shark get it done!

[cowboyhat]

It has been suggested before.... and wasn't well received...

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,26303.msg499504.html#msg499504

  Well I'm not really a boulderer these days, my proj was twice as long as the Oak and had gone on for at least as long.

And I really did do it next go after speed was mentioned. And breathing.

You've got nothing to lose Simon, try something slightly different for a working go to see how it feels?

[nai]

Might sound a daft desperate suggestion but lose the chalkbag (and 2-300 grams), you only dip three times all route. Just thickly daub chalk all over the legs of your trousers and pat your thighs to transfer it to your fingers.  Seems a bit odd at first setting off bag-free but it saves weight and you soon get used to it. it's also far quicker saving potentially vital seconds as opposed to fumbling around to locate and get your hand into your chalkbag.

This is a serious suggestion, BTW, I do it all the time on limit routes with minimal chances to rechalk

[tomtom]

Do you need your glasses Simon? You must know the route by touch by now - and that's an easy 50g saving #marginalgains

[nai]

I climbed with a guy last week who changed into shorts for his redpoints (this was belaying in hat,  duvet and gloves weather).  Every little helps.  Clip, clip

[bendavison]

That's nothing. My mate cut he label off his harness and the lining out his chalk bag (he needed to chalk up..)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[cowboyhat]

Yeah I always wear shorts but thats an aesthetic point: for sport climbing if its cold enough for tops off you should ALREADY have gone to shorts or lycra.

- shorts
- liquid chalk
- skipping clips
- some weird expensive foreign import chalk
- knee pad
- stock piled discontinued footwear
- Short hair
- Lightweight harness
- roller biners
- Michelin Pilot Super Sports

 Lets not forget all of this is about BRINGING IT DOWN TO YOUR LEVEL, might as well go all in.



NB: Trousers no top is acceptable when bouldering.

[nai]

That's nothing. My mate cut he label off his harness and the lining out his chalk bag (he needed to chalk up..)

Wow, that's like the cyclists who buy a new seat post to save 10g. Only £100 cheaper.

I did once weigh all my trousers ahead of a day on redpoint. Saved over 250g wearing moon pants rather than jeans.  Still failed, though.

[tomtom]

You could probably save that by enthusiastically all body exfoliating... All that dry skin doing nothing :D

[davej]

One of Gaskins power enlightenment secrets is his full bone slap head hair style. Shave it all off Shark!

[Doylo]

Chop your dick off too

[tomtom]

Chop your dick off too

Might not save much there..

[shark]

Chop your dick off too

Might not save much there..

Double ouch

[shark]

Re climbing quicker the footholds do require an element of precision. I have spared you the multitude of failed red point "footage" due to foot slips. I will try though

[shark]

Might sound a daft desperate suggestion but lose the chalkbag (and 2-300 grams), you only dip three times all route. Just thickly daub chalk all over the legs of your trousers and pat your thighs to transfer it to your fingers.  Seems a bit odd at first setting off bag-free but it saves weight and you soon get used to it. it's also far quicker saving potentially vital seconds as opposed to fumbling around to locate and get your hand into your chalkbag.

This is a serious suggestion, BTW, I do it all the time on limit routes with minimal chances to rechalk

This I might try

[dave]

Can you try a lighter harness for redpoint goes? I have one of these for alpine climbing and it weighs fuck all, plenty sturdy enough for falling off. If I was operating at the bleeding edge of my personal redpoint capacity I'd be wearing it no question.

http://www.elitemountainsupplies.co.uk/product/1564_black-diamond-couloir-harness.html?gclid=CP6M_6mUosgCFcFz2wodkX4Msw

[Sasquatch]

Weight Weenies for climbing - I love it.

Drop all the clothes, and do it starkers.....

[dave]

Doing it bollock nekkid would be a false economy, cos he'd then have to wear a challbag. Should stick with a pair of cut-off surgical scrubs caked in chalk.

Also, if there's no heelhooking then you can safely drill holes all over the back, sides and soles of the rockshoes to remove superfluous material.

[Kingy]

Its turning onto a recurring nightmare.

Try and think more positively, redpointing at your limit is a failure based sport unfortunately, there's gonna be lots of not making it before the sweet relief of chains being clipped.

Great to see you looking so strong on the horn move, keep the faith, see these burns as opportunities to shine!

[SA Chris]

Stop thinking you are there when you are not actually there. You are only there when you are actually there.