[shurt]

If an oak falls in a forest and there is no one there to hear it...

[Sasquatch]

So it looks like the combined wisdom of UKB has said to dial the RP crux, then attempt the route while wearing cut off surgical scrubs caked in chalk(i assume these should be cut as short as possible whilst allowing for aforementioned chalk caking), sans chalk bag and any other additional weight (i.e. drop the glasses, reduce shoes via drill only the minimal amount needed for climbing this particular route, minimalist harness-may I suggest a swami belt  )

Anything else we'd like to see in the next video? Aside from sendage, which of course is guaranteed by the collective wisdom of UKB given Shark follows the given advice.

[Muenchener]

A single 7.8mm half rope for the conservative, or daringly go all the way to a single 6.7mm twin?

[nai]

So it looks like the combined wisdom of UKB has said to dial the RP crux, then attempt the route while wearing cut off surgical scrubs caked in chalk(i assume these should be cut as short as possible whilst allowing for aforementioned chalk caking), sans chalk bag and any other additional weight (i.e. drop the glasses, reduce shoes via drill only the minimal amount needed for climbing this particular route, minimalist harness-may I suggest a swami belt  )

Anything else we'd like to see in the next video?

Duh

Simon can you climb a bit quicker?

[tomtom]

Chop your dick off too

Might not save much there..

Double ouch

That's right. Work on the low hanging fruit first

[SA Chris]

If an oak falls in a forest and there is no one there to hear it...

I'm sure we'll hear all about it.

[shark]

I have tried to find micro beta improvements on the redpoint crux including experimenting with a thumb catch and body positioning but no joy - and I have got past the redpoint crux twice now.

In terms of other things I have recently bought and started using:

- Climbing Labs chalk and new chalk bag for it. Might look at liquid chalk again but never been fond of it previously
- 2 roller crabs  for the first two clips
- Lightweight trousers 266g and a bargain at £6.50

The R300 Arcteryx harness I am wearing is lightweight. I could reuse my old 320 and cut off the gear loops but really? Im using a cut down short 9.2 Revelation rope though to be fair it is an older furry one so I can take my new slicker 80m one instead.

Not averse to wearing shorts but Nai's suggestion of plastering my leg is good especially for the top shakeout where chalking the right hand is more marginal.

Maybe I should leave the redpoint attempt for very early evening to make the best of conditions when Im freshest though that does cut down the number attempts before nightfall.

I will try to climb faster and compare my time with previous attempts. Stronger people do a quicker but more powerful sequence on the start so I dont think there is anything for me to gain by changing this.

[tomtom]

by the way - c. 0.5m long hair (full head) weighs 75-100g... (i was bored so I found out..) so I don't think you've much to gain there unless you've sprouted a grey pony tail since I last saw you...

[cha1n]

I was initially going to comment on the speed of climbing, but I remember when I was trying powerplant recently, I thought I was going flat out but when I watched my videos, it looked about the same pace as yours (much slower than it felt). I felt that if I sped up at all that I was risking accuracy and just ended up pulling harder to make up for rushing. So I won't say climb faster.

Near the end I did consciously have a look at how hard I was pulling on the easier sections, I appreciate your route looks bouldery but perhaps you can grip lighter on some sections, it really helped me on powerplant. I ended up not really pulling hard at all until after the bulge for the RP crux, which is where I needed the strength. Also take a look at your breathing? You sound very out of breath after you fall in your video, this was another thing I worked on for my project.

Routing for you and hope you do it soon Shark.

[Johnny Brown]

Obviously I know very little about siege redpointing but I would have a break and do something different for a week. Give yourself that treat of going soloing at Stanage, get you brain/body into some instinctive movement for a change.

You haven't said anything about your mental preparation either. How do you prepare your mind prior to starting a redpoint?

[shark]

Also take a look at your breathing? You sound very out of breath after you fall in your video, this was another thing I worked on for my project.

I was able to improve my breathing on the lower section but the top traverse is incredibly taxing on your core and breathing is virtually impossible 

[Doylo]

I find trying to speed up usually fucks me up too. prob worth it if you're really crawling but can imagine this might be hard at Malham.

[shark]

Obviously I know very little about siege redpointing but I would have a break and do something different for a week. Give yourself that treat of going soloing at Stanage, get you brain/body into some instinctive movement for a change.

You haven't said anything about your mental preparation either. How do you prepare your mind prior to starting a redpoint?

Yeah been doing that. Out at Burbage Earl last night with my sons for first time. Got to first slopey ledge on Little Rascal but puntered moves above to next ledge. Have a hole in my thumb and ring finger now (Is the back of the groove always filled with crud?) Nice sunset 

Im usually good for turning it on for a redpoint. Usually go through the moves. Sometimes go for a walk to clear my head. Remind myself to make every attempt count and enjoy it or get angry. That sort of thing. Do get distracted by nearby conversations or people shouting beta to each other but with going midweek it is usually quiet anyway. Recently started to count "one" or "one-two" in my head with each move if I'm not entirely in the zone or to shut out distractions.   

[abarro81]

Obviously I know very little about siege redpointing but I would have a break and do something different for a week. Give yourself that treat of going soloing at Stanage, get you brain/body into some instinctive movement for a change. campusing down the school or bouldering on peak lime

You haven't said anything about your mental preparation either. How do you prepare your mind prior to starting a redpoint?

My favourite tactic is singing Phil Collins and Bonnie Tyler songs or listening to euphoric cheesy trance plus this, which is the most important one (both for fun and success):

Remind myself to ... enjoy it

[cofe]

My favourite tactic is singing Phil Collins and Bonnie Tyler songs or listening to euphoric cheesy trance

or 2Pac?

[Doylo]

I've started playing the Real Thing soundtrack on my phone but maybe not at Malham   

[Wood FT]

I've started playing the Real Thing soundtrack on my phone but maybe not at Malham   

yeah that and Supertiel = boost

[shurt]

If an oak falls in a forest and there is no one there to hear it...

I'm sure we'll hear all about it.

I'd bloody hope so, we're all on baited breath here.

[T_B]

This is classic - redpoint by committee.

What you need is everyone on here stood on the Catwalk shouting instructions 

[andy_e]

Crowdsourced redpoiting. Do we all get the tick when Shark smashes it in?

[tomtom]

Is there 3g coverage at the Cove? We can get someone to Periscope RP's...

[abarro81]

or 2Pac?

That's bouldering music only you amateur

[Doylo]

Pete Livesey would have hung a £50 note at the belay for incentive .

[dave]

Pete Livesey would have hung a £50 note at the belay for incentive .

I've already suggested bucket of water at the belay, set hand on fire again.

[cha1n]

Someone recommended to slap yourself in the face a few times to get the adrenaline started, although it may work better and be more enjoyable for everyone if the belayer did it. I did it sometimes if I was feeling really sedate after a long rest as I was having like 1 hour rests between RPs (don't chalk up just before doing it) and I think it worked, even if it turns out that my belayer just wanted to see me slapped in the face but I was willing to try anything at that stage.

Also, I think that I read somewhere that the physiological response to fear is the same as excitement (could be bs), so I'd always try and change that fear sensation in my stomach into an excitement one before I set off, get psyched, realise that this could be the go and unleash.