[Sasquatch]

Cheers to all the exceelent Sendage!!

Excellent week overall.  Week 2 of 5-3-1 Program, and so far I'm really liking it.  Feeling really strong and feeling the difference while climbing and playing soccer both.  Haven't dropped any weight, but am certainly getting more cut. 

M - Bench (4x160lbs), MED (6mm edge - 12sec +10lbs), Abroll, Squats, Light Bouldering
T - Deadlift (3x335lbs), Wtd Pullups (4x70lbs), Overhead press, Ankles to Bar, Light Bouldering
Also Saw Physio about shoulder - he's not certain, but thinks a labral strain from the bicep attachement, suggested continuing training, but added a few modifications and changes. 
W - Rest
T - Squats (4x165), MAW (18mm edge - 9sec +90lbs), Abroll, Bench press
F - Overhead Press (3x80), Wtd Rows (3x80lbs), Ankles to Bar, Deadlift
S-Soccer game in PM
S-Rope climb w Wife - 5 sets of 3 routes, wu set 10,11,11,12, then 3x5.12 for each other set, short boulder session to check out a few new hard ones - Flash 2x v8, 2x v9 2nd go, all in Cave which is my weakest wall/angle.  Soccer game in PM.

[shurt]

STG: get back on it I suppose the new STG is to keep it up
MTG: back into the 7’s on the routes
LTG: same old E6, 8a, v7+ bouldering

m: 3 sets on fingerboard
t: 4 sets on fingerboard at lunch 2 x 10 pu's later on
w:
t: quick hr at wall on way home. felt a bit tired but knocked out some decent problems and got down to it on the campus board which I hope will help my underdeveloped burl
f:
s:
s:

pretty good week training wise although feel battered as worked really long hrs all wend. maybe I'll get to the wall or even outdoors if the weather carries on. I've been tied up during the last good spell which is annoying. 

[filz]

Hi, this is my first post in the power club.
In the last couple of years I've done almost exclusively boulder. I've climbed a couple of 7bs and some 7as.

My weekly training usually consists of: fingerboarding, a couple of session on my home board, some weights or bodyweight excercises and some yoga now and then.

STG: keep training and avoid injuries, improve power endurance
MTG: Consolidate 7a, climb a couple of 7b+
LTG: 7c

Mon - Beastmaker Max hangs. Good session.
Tue - board session. Tried a couple of short hard problems.
Wed - rest
Thu - Power endurance session: boulder circuits (12-20 moves) with short rests (60/90")
Fri - rest
Sat - Sun Went climbing in Arco with a friend. On saturday we did an easy multipitch route 5c/6a.
On sunday in Arco was raining so we moved to the dolomites where we did another easy route on piz Ciavazes.

It was a good week though I was a little tired.
I had a small problem on my right shoulder after tuesday session, but than it disappeared during the weekend.
I was also happy to get back to multipitches routes after a while.

[nik at work]

Big up to those on the send train.

Goals - as ever

M-T - coughing and spluttering
F - BM session, pretty good.
S - work and DIY
S - outside on steep project. 4 blasts each time got from ground to failing on crux move.
, pulled past couple of moves to half height gear then climbed to top. Felt pretty strong on top half and got fingers onto next hold of crux but only held for a smidge of a part of a second. Then traverse wall on hard eliminate project, did it in four sections but I was beasted and had tres sore skin.

Slightly crap week due to ongoing illness, only five weeks until Margalef now...

[tomtom]

Hi, this is my first post in the power club.
In the last couple of years I've done almost exclusively boulder. I've climbed a couple of 7bs and some 7as.

Hello - and welcome

[petejh]

STG: Re-hab bicep tendon. Slab climbing
MTG: Onsight attempts on The Hurting, Cathedral, Banana Wall, Anubis (this winter)
LTG: 8c (within 2.25 years)


M.
T. Floss, Eccentric curls 3x10 10Kg, Reverse arm hold 40secs.
W. Floss, Curls 3x12 5Kg, Eccentric curls 3x12 10Kg.
T. Core & mobility workout. Reverse arm hold 45secs.
F. Curls 3x10 5Kg, Eccentric curls 3x10 10Kg.
S. Slate.  Four F5-6a+ warm-ups, all of them actually good(!) then got on Short Stories in boiling hot sun/no wind. Got between 1st and 2nd bolt, sweaty as hell and defo not a good plan. Just about managed to downclimb back to ground without weighting rope. Having a right time trying to do routes on this slab, 3 weekends in a row and nothing - too ill, forgot rack, too hot. Went to dulas and belayed a lanky skinny strong freak in a roof. Got on hardest route since bicep injury - Pearl from the Shell 6c+ - had to hang on a steep bit to avoid using bicep too much. Did a 6b.
S. Rhinogs gritstone with Fiend and PK. Did three E3 slabs - Rock Steady, Quartzstorm and the one to the right of Quartstorm. All lovely rock/climbing. Had a tough time on the last one after almost slipping off low down. I think Llechau Mawr would be a good high summer venue - bit of seepage and greasy lichen in spots in late September. Good potential for doing route after route on multiple ascending levels. Fear Test looks ace, but fortunately it had a seepage spot on the crucial bit.
Nice to go climbing in the Rhinogs with the local guidebook/new routing team - one from Bristol the other from Glasgow. Pull your finger out Wales.

Bicep tendon making very slow progress, fed up.

[a dense loner]

"Pull your finger out Wales". If you had 2 biceps you wouldn't be new routing in the Rhinogs 

[webbo]

This is a round of my last three weeks.
Mon to Thursday nothing flew to Italy Sassfortino.
Fri climb problems up to 6c swim 20 lengths
Sat walk 2 hours 30 lengths
Sun. Rain nothing.
Mon. Damp crag wet 2 x 20 lengths.
Tue. Sight seeing 40 lengths.
Wed. Walked 2 hours wet again 50 lengths.
Thu. Crag found some Dryish rock 5 problems up to 6c.30 lengths.
Fri. Damp battled up one wet problem. 60 lengths..
Sat dry 21 problems.20 lengths.
Sun. Nothing.
Mon. Senna.
Tue.11 problems up to 6c.20 lengths.
Wed. 26 problems 20 lengths.
Thu. Home.
Fri work
Sat board, bike 2 hrs
Sun. Bike 2 hrs.
Drank loads, 9 pizzas,2 pasta meals, 2 four course wine tasting meals and one salad. But seem to have lost weight.

[andy popp]

Dismal ...

M - work/nothing
T - evening board session. Start warming up fine but several problems I feel a definite twinge inside my right elbow sticking a dynamic move. Carry on but I can still feel it but as soon as I try a problem undercutting there is very definite pain and have to stop immediately.
W - at least work is full on so that it is a distraction. Some very gentle rehab
T - ditto
F - travel up to Edinburg for university open day on Saturday
S - open day, touristy stuff, get home late. A really good couple of days. I know the forecast is good for the next day but I feel knackered, the arm is still a little sore, and I'm generally unpsyched for what will have to be a very early morning session on Sunday. Definitely too many nightcaps on getting home.
S - wake up to a beautiful morning but I feel rough and starting to feel like I've picked up a bit of bug (confirmed by very sore throat next day). Spend day moping and feeling weak-willed. Gutted to have wasted/not been able to use some great weather.

[andy_e]

There are still many beautiful mornings to come...

[Nibile]

flew to Italy Sassfortino.

Hey I thought you didn't come!
I hope you liked the climbing.

[shark]

 :furious:H

There are still many beautiful mornings to come...

Fewer than there used to be

[tomtom]

:furious:H

There are still many beautiful mornings to come...

Fewer than there used to be

There will be PLENTY of beautiful GRITSTONE mornings to come! \o/

(I'm starting to get bored of the white stuff..)

[tk421a]

Hey,
STG: Do more of the V7+ circuit at the local wall, currently topping ~20% of them.
MTG: Font 7B+/C - planning a trip in April. 8a next year.

Mixed week, busy early on then good sessions over the weekend
M:-
T: Deadhangs on small edges / core work on a bar - single leg front lever, lsit windscreen wipers.
W:-
Th:-
F: 1h30 wall boulder, did 2 of the new V4-6 set in a couple of goes
Sa: 2h30 wall boulder, did 3 more of the new V4-6 set
Su: 2h wall boulder, did one of the new V7+ circuit (soft), worked on a v7/8 (supposedly) graded problem

Feeling stronger than ever, the v4-6 circuit is one that I had done only a few of ~6months ago, and now finding I'm confident I can do almost all of them, and flash a few.

Footnote: Did the V7/8 problem yesterday, feels more V6/7 with the right beta.

[36chambers]

(I'm starting to get bored of the white stuff..)

with good reason

[36chambers]

I don't know whether it's already been mentioned, but it appears a Tomtom week is considerably longer than the average week... 

[shark]

Now been up to final traverse eleven times in last six sessions but perhaps only two of those redpoint attempts could be described as OK conditions. Naturally getting a bit jaded. Have provisionally arranged to go up tomorrow afternoon/evening when weather looks a bit better. Tempted to have a break from it until temperature drops.    Work is also building up.

Went up yesterday. Better conditions than Sunday but not primo and maybe just one day rest was not enough but got back to upper traverse twice again.

Feeling jaded and finding it hard to tap into the massive psyche needed for these redpoint goes so not going again this week but signed up for next Monday. Also have some work assignments to get stuck into.

Going to a bit of bouldering as this seems to be the most consistent thing that gives me a better nudge on the route though may throw in some PE and AeroCap as well.

Id originally thought that once I got to the top traverse that it would be a formality given how easy it seems in isolation but Ive been up there 13 times now.

Here's footage of my two best goes from yesterday:




   

[bendavison]

Nice Shark!  Good luck next Monday if you go

[shark]

Nice Shark!  Good luck next Monday if you go

Thanks Ben. Its turning onto a recurring nightmare. Hopefully some time out with different stimulus and better conditions will see me through to the chain.

[SA Chris]

It will happen, oh yes, it will happen.

[Luke Owens]

Smash it Shark!

[rodma]

I don't know whether it's already been mentioned, but it appears a Tomtom week is considerably longer than the average week... 

i was close to starting it off this week, but thought i might get the dates wrong. glad it's not just me

[tomtom]

Oops

[nai]

(I'm starting to get bored of the white stuff..)

Sniff sniff and move onto a bit of brown.

[webbo]

flew to Italy Sassfortino.

Hey I thought you didn't come!
I hope you liked the climbing.

I really enjoyed it conditions were a bit hit and miss though,some rain and low cloud. Then when it was dry it was between 25 and 30 degrees. Also having one smallish mat was a bit scarey at times.