Late as usual. Last couple of weeks have been work heavy (and I'm beginning to loath being there). On the other hand its motivating me to knuckle down and keep the grad job applications going.LTG 8A 8bM. T.W. Wall. Max hangs routine. Last few sessions have been without assistance from pulley/sling. This time I was feeling good so added 5kg. CWP style on beastmaker 2000 central incut hold with 5kg in the other hand. Fuck yeah! Felt good to pull really hard. 70 press-ups of various style and some core exercise (leg raises, crunches) plus one new problem on the board. T.F. Wall. 30mins on 40 degree. Floor based core exercises and press-ups. Short session before work - motivation high, spare time low!S.S. Wall. Max hangs unassisted. Some more floor based core work and press-ups.
Trying to redpoint your hardest route in shit conditions ain't good.
Quote from: nai on September 24, 2015, 07:01:31 pmQuote from: Nibile on September 24, 2015, 02:09:19 pmI would still go even if hot. You can a) improve both physically and mentally from climbing in less than perfect conditions, then succeed as soon as it gets fresher; b) climb the route nonetheless.c) trash your skin so that forthcoming attempts in good connies are sub par and painfuld) injure yourself greasing off holdsFrustrating waiting but a very disciplined effort staying away I reckon, hope it reaps rewards.I gave it quite a lot of thought. It wasnt less than perfect conditions - it was rubbish on tuesday and even likelier to be so tomorrow. The sun doesn't go off the route till about 3.30pm or maybe even later now with the sun being lower in the sky. As we had arrived at about Noon expecting it to be cloudy meant I had to wait over 3 hours for it to go in the shade whih is highly frustrating. Also it now gets dark at 7.30pm leaving a 4 hour window to get on the route. Even in the shade the rock was still really warm. Factor in the 3.5 hour round trip in the car and all that goes with making a day free makes it all harder to justify.Also just going on a project and resting for the next go on the project you end up getting weaker so strategically a few days out to top up power and finger strength is a good strategy in its own right - especially as I have just scored some all time absolute (and relative to body weight) deadhang PBs this evening
Quote from: Nibile on September 24, 2015, 02:09:19 pmI would still go even if hot. You can a) improve both physically and mentally from climbing in less than perfect conditions, then succeed as soon as it gets fresher; b) climb the route nonetheless.c) trash your skin so that forthcoming attempts in good connies are sub par and painfuld) injure yourself greasing off holdsFrustrating waiting but a very disciplined effort staying away I reckon, hope it reaps rewards.
I would still go even if hot. You can a) improve both physically and mentally from climbing in less than perfect conditions, then succeed as soon as it gets fresher; b) climb the route nonetheless.
My next step in terms of climbing performance is probably to just get out more and try things. My new goals are just arbitrary numbers. I think I need to be more specific and get some projects.
Anybody feel free to point out any glaring omissions that are missing for someone looking to be bouldering in 8s.
I can hold a good front lever for 6-8s, whether that's on a small edge or a bar. Worked up to that for a few months but not progressed it any further. My training consists of varying phases of FB, campus board and 40 degree training board. I will work PE when I've got a sport trip/goals like I did earlier this year. I've also been adding in more and more antagonist stuff too, pressups, theraband stuff, wrist curls, but these I do generally all the time. Maybe time to hit the campus board again and see if I can progress to 1 5 8. Anybody feel free to point out any glaring omissions that are missing for someone looking to be bouldering in 8s. Charlie
