[Muenchener]

S got stupidly close to Incapacity Benefit, could do all the moves easily with rests, powered out on RP, maybe because of 3 days in a row

Very possibly.

ps. if I can do a route with one (very short) sit, what do I need to work on? power endurance? or just endurance?

Where are you powering out/resting? It shouldn’t be (aerobic) endurance that’s the issue: you can more or less stand in balance / no hands at the second bolt, reasonable shake out at the third and from there it’s at most ten moves until you have the bomber jug after the fifth bolt and your feet over the roof.

(They’re pretty powerful moves for me though, plus a lot of head games because I’m always nervous on roofs.)

If this is your main project then maybe go super-specific? Laps on a ten to twelve move powerful pulling-over-a-roof problem with a technically tricky but not too strenuous vertical traverse into the start?

[Nibile]

Mon - rest.
Tue - rest.
Wed - rest.
Thu - jumps, 2 mins weights complex (speed) x2; hill sprints x6. Fantastic.
Fri - 2 mins weights complex (speed); power cleans 20x2 (speed).
Sat - rest. Lots of beer (by my standards).
Sun - core finisher: 3xmax front levers, static ab wheel, 1 min babell shoulder carry, 1 min overhead carry, 1 min farmer's walk. Brutal.

Not bad for what was meant to be a rest week. Wednesday I struggled not to train; on Thursday I was a raging beast looking for prey. So instead I trained, and was good!
This week's keys have been an emphasis on speed, that I will carry on, and testing the "core finisher", that is targeting the same muscles and movement patterns with multiple excercises.
Glad about how I recovered from the weekend in the Dollys, the tons of food may have helped. But now I have to get back into good eating habits.
Cooler temps, bring board 8b!

[ashtond6]

Where are you powering out/resting? It shouldn’t be (aerobic) endurance that’s the issue: you can more or less stand in balance / no hands at the second bolt, reasonable shake out at the third and from there it’s at most ten moves until you have the bomber jug after the fifth bolt and your feet over the roof.

If this is your main project then maybe go super-specific? Laps on a ten to twelve move powerful pulling-over-a-roof problem with a technically tricky but not too strenuous vertical traverse into the start?

Yeah I think I was just powered out, I tried pretty hard on Friday fiddling wires into some steep routes
No, this won't be my main project - I did all the moves easily first time. Just trying to work out why I couldn't quite link them that day as it isn't a stamina fest    Am thinking of investing time into Indecent Exposure 7b+ version. But no one seems to climb lime after October!

[shark]

Yeah I think I was just powered out, I tried pretty hard on Friday fiddling wires into some steep routes
No, this won't be my main project - I did all the moves easily first time. Just trying to work out why I couldn't quite link them that day as it isn't a stamina fest    Am thinking of investing time into Indecent Exposure 7b+ version. But no one seems to climb lime after October!

Indecent is very prone to seepage and so isn't a good Winter project. Tin Of and Sardine are better bets at the Tor.

Although too loose for my taste Garage Buttress is virtually perma dry. Topo here: http://www.sportsclimbs.co.uk/mainpages/peak/Garage%20Buttress%20Topo.htm

[Nibile]

Glad about how I recovered from the weekend in the Dollys, the tons of food may have helped.

Third complete meal on the drive back.
image by Nibile, on Flickr

[ashtond6]

Indecent is very prone to seepage and so isn't a good Winter project. Tin Of and Sardine are better bets at the Tor.

Although too loose for my taste Garage Buttress is virtually perma dry. Topo here: http://www.sportsclimbs.co.uk/mainpages/peak/Garage%20Buttress%20Topo.htm

Sardine & Virgin King it is! Once I've done more 7a/+'s 

[fried]

Is that chips served on a plate made of schnitzel? if so, I like it.

[Nibile]

Is that chips served on a plate made of schnitzel? if so, I like it.

Ditto. The joys of motorway menu. I can assure you that the roasted pork shin with potatoes, salad and cheese and potatoes pie was fairly good.

[Sasquatch]

Very big and crazy week - not enough sleep considering the level of training and extra work, but still going well.

Goals: Mostly getting the body strong, and if time allows, continue work on one of my many projects... also, be ready to crush a couple of 8A's in Tahoe.

BW- 173lbs this AM, need to get this down under 170 in next 3-4 weeks. 

M-Boulder warmup, 5/3/1 Bench, MED finger Board, and Core

T-5/3/1 Deadlift, Wtd Pullups, climb w Wife - sets of 3xroped stuff, mostly trying new stuff, so sets of 5.11, 5.12, 5.11 back to back was standard.

W-Rest

T-Boulder Warmup, 5/3/1 Squat, MAW fingerboard, Core

F-5/3/1 Overhead Press, Wtd Inverted Rows, Core(lever progression work)

S- AM Boulder Outside, felt pretty considering the training week.  Continued work on roadside project.  This was day 6? and I still haven't stuck the crux move in isolation, need perfect sticky conditions which have been hard to come by on this boulder.  Mornings are the wrong time window.  Did get to the hold 4 times, which is as good as I've ever done on this move.  Indoor soccer in PM (6-5 win, 2 goals, 2 assists)

S-Climb w wife, good session, 6 sets of 3 routes back to back, 3 sets were 3x5.12a/b.   Indoor soccer in PM(6-3 win, 3 goals, 1 assist)

[the_dom]

Slightly low week, energy-wise..

Mon: Bouldering, followed by max hangs a la Maisch protocol. Built on the previous week.
Tues: Deadlifts up to 160 kgs and benchpresses up to 80 kgs (weak).
Wed: Max hangs a la Maisch
Thurs: Rest day. Was supposed to go bouldering but chosen spot was too windy so went drinking instead.
Fri: Morning weighted CWP hangs
Sat: Deadlifts up to 180kgs (>2x BW) and 150 KB swings at 24kgs
Sun: Bouldering. Lower back REALLY stiff from deadlifts. Poor session.

Hurrumph - not what I wanted out of the week, but aware that this kind of strength training is draining and that the benefits will come later..

[petejh]

STG: Re-hab bicep tendon. Slab climbing
MTG: Onsight attempts on The Hurting, Cathedral, Banana Wall, Anubis (this winter)
LTG: 8c (within 2.25 years)

Offshore survival course this week, including helicopter underwater escape training. Was totally bricking it as I have a phobia of going underwater since almost drowning in a lake when I was young.
(Sunday). Local pool to test how long I could hold my breath underwater - 25 seconds.
M. Local pool. Underwater breath hold increased to 35 seconds, and able to shuffle along the bottom of the pool for a length (15 metre). Floss, Curls, Reverse straight-arm holds.
T. Local pool. Underwater breath hold now increased to 1min10secs! Boom! (went my lungs) Amazing what a bit of training and relaxation can do! Swam a length and a half underwater for first time ever. Also able to shuffle along the bottom of the pool for a length and a half by holding myself under by the handrail running along side of pool. Glad it was quiet, would have looked very odd some guy trying to drown himself...
W. Offshore survival. Did the heli underwater escape in the afternoon. Totally bricking it.. almost panicked and bottled it before the first dunk. First dunk went fine and I realised what I'd been doing for the previous three evenings in the pool was harder. The next 6 dunks were a pleasure and I'd have carried on doing more if I could have. Mega chuffed to have slayed that demon. Or at least maimed it.. Curls & eccentrics in hotel room.
T. Course. More pool action, good fun. Craig y Longridge for first time. Could only do easy stuff because of bicep. Couldn't risk it on any of the good-looking 7s which was frustrating. Tanya M. did whole traverse again with ease, except bit at end but didn't try. Met Paul B and Natalie 
F. Course. Curls, eccentrics.
S. Slate. Got to parking and realised I'd forgotten my trad rack, dickhead. Drove back and did 8 easy routes at Penmaenbach Quarry instead, including a very good 6b+. Belayed a skinny lanky obsessive on his proj at Dulas, looking strong. Curls, eccentrics, reverse straight-arm press.
S.  Core & mobility workout.

Bicep tendon making very slow progress. Doubt I'll be able to train hard for winter.
Well chuffed to have tackled my phobia of drowning!

[a dense loner]

I think bosiet's the best course I've ever paid for! In terms of variety etc

[petejh]

Yeah I thought it was well good, probably the best 'industrial' course I've done. Think a large part of that is due to the instructors mostly being ex military or fire service. Even the mist was decent due to the instructors having been around and seen a lot.

[a dense loner]

I draw the line at the mist tho  probably more to do with the fact that I'd already had a few long inductions in the previous couple of wks

[tk421a]

Hey, so this is my first post, although I've read stuff on here for a while. I'm moving into a new phase of training for the first time so thought this might help! I'm mostly an indoor boulderer (living in London) who leads occassionally and tries to go outdoors when possible. I've climbed 7A/7A+ in Font, flashing a 7a route on a trip to Crete last year is my sport max, mostly through lack of doing sport.
STG: Do more of the V7+ circuit at the local wall, currently topping ~20% of them.
MTG: Font 7B+/C - planning a trip in April. 8a next year

Current training plan has structure of:
Midweek Tu,W,Th, - hard boulders, fingerboard (max hangs on small edges, progression protocol, or endurance repeaters) and then more ancap bouldering
Weekend - hard boulder and then an ancap session, or go to a lead wall or go outdoors

Last week:
M: Fingerboard at home
Tu: New circuit I hadn't tried - flashing problems in the v4/5 range.
W: -
Th:Easy bouldering with some work friends
F: Hard bouldering - 3 v7+ circuit boulders
S: -
Su: Harrisons rocks - first time on southern sandstone. Some 6A+/Bs

Cheers

[shark]

 

[shurt]

Not a terrible week.

STG: get back on it
MTG: back into the 7’s on the routes
LTG: same old E6, 8a, v7+ bouldering

m: yoga
t:
w: wall in the eve. felt good. blasted through some pretty tough problems and left before I felt really tired.
went to watch a version of friends film he’s making about buildering in Bristol. I did a fair bit of filming with him last summer and its looking great.
t:
f: more yoga (surprisingly tiring)
s:
s:

going to get into the fingerboard this coming week.

[Luke Owens]

W/C 07/09

M: Rest

T: Indoors AutoBelay - Aerocap - 2 x 30 mins continuous up and down climbing. 2 routes on the Piscobloc.

W: Rest
 
T: Rest

F: Diamond - Added 2 bolts to new route to make it more friendly and did the recently re-equipped "The Water Bouys" (7a) 2nd go after a close onsight attempt in the damp.

S: Rest

S: Driving to Ceuse

W/C 14/09

M: Arrived at Ceuse knackered!

T: Late start due to tiredness - Demi Lune - Onsighted "Katina" (6a) and "Canabis ou Nutella" (6b) then did "Harley Davidson" (6b+) which I tried 3 years ago. Managed it but only just, still felt nails! Ace route.

W: Un Pont L'infini - Flashed "Silmarils" (6c) as a warm up and had an onsight go on "Retour En Afrique" (7a+) got to the upper wall then dogged to the top, didn't think much of it so sacked it. Had a flash go on "Vas-y Tonton" (7a) as mate was on it fell off on crux. Went dark so worked beta on toppy.

T: Massive storm and rain all day

F: Did "Vas-y Tonton" first redpoint as a warm up then came close to on-sighting "Le Galere" (7a), did it first redpoint in the baking sun. Once it had cooled down I went for an onsight on "Angel Dust" (7a+) over in Demi Lune. Fell off pretty low down, fading light meant a quick dog to the top, felt nails.

S: Had a quick retroflash go on "Zagreb" (6c) fell off at the last clip feeling like I was getting sun stroke. Didn't bother redoing it as it trashed my skin, had a lie down instead. Went over to "Angel Dust" once in the shade and had 2 goes bolt to bolt to work the moves. Managed it in 2 halfs so knew it was on, had an early finish to rest for last day.

S: Went to Thorgal to do some 6's until the shade came. Flashed 6a+ and 2 6b's. Felt tired but psyched to get on redpoint on "Angel Dust". Dogged up to put the clips in, 1st redpoint I fell after all the hard climbing near the top, the beta I had worked out for an "easier" bit felt nails when pumped. Worked a better sequence straight away and had a massive rest. 2nd redpoint I found myself feeling much more tired but strangely relaxed and battled my way to the top and clipped the chains, last day, last go psyche! Proper sandbag at the grade but the best route I've ever done for sure. Treated to the purple sunset when I turned around, Ceuse is ace!

[shurt]

 no oak news this week then?

[shark]

no oak news this week then?

 

It was boiling on Tuesday but still got to the top traverse twice again. Was going to go tomorrow but bailed as it is forecast to be hot again. Not sure when I'm going back yet.

[Nibile]

I would still go even if hot.
You can a) improve both physically and mentally from climbing in less than perfect conditions, then succeed as soon as it gets fresher; b) climb the route nonetheless.

[nai]

I would still go even if hot.
You can a) improve both physically and mentally from climbing in less than perfect conditions, then succeed as soon as it gets fresher; b) climb the route nonetheless.

c) trash your skin so that forthcoming attempts in good connies are sub par and painful
d) injure yourself greasing off holds

Frustrating waiting but a very disciplined effort staying away I reckon, hope it reaps rewards.

[mr chaz]

Late as usual. Last couple of weeks have been work heavy (and I'm beginning to loath being there). On the other hand its motivating me to knuckle down and keep the grad job applications going.

LTG 8A 8b

M.
T.
W. Wall. Max hangs routine. Last few sessions have been without assistance from pulley/sling. This time I was feeling good so added 5kg. CWP style on beastmaker 2000 central incut hold with 5kg in the other hand. Fuck yeah!  Felt good to pull really hard. 70 press-ups of various style and some core exercise (leg raises, crunches) plus one new problem on the board.
T.
F. Wall. 30mins on 40 degree. Floor based core exercises and press-ups. Short session before work - motivation high, spare time low!
S.
S. Wall. Max hangs unassisted. Some more floor based core work and press-ups.

[shark]

I would still go even if hot.
You can a) improve both physically and mentally from climbing in less than perfect conditions, then succeed as soon as it gets fresher; b) climb the route nonetheless.

c) trash your skin so that forthcoming attempts in good connies are sub par and painful
d) injure yourself greasing off holds

Frustrating waiting but a very disciplined effort staying away I reckon, hope it reaps rewards.

I gave it quite a lot of thought. It wasnt less than perfect conditions - it was rubbish on tuesday and even likelier to be so tomorrow.

The sun doesn't go off the route till about 3.30pm or maybe even later now with the sun being lower in the sky. As we had arrived at about Noon expecting it to be cloudy meant I had to wait over 3 hours for it to go in the shade whih is highly frustrating. Also it now gets dark at 7.30pm leaving a 4 hour window to get on the route. Even in the shade the rock was still really warm. Factor in the 3.5 hour round trip in the car and all that goes with making a day free makes it all harder to justify.

Also just going on a project and resting for the next go on the project you end up getting weaker so strategically a few days out to top up power and finger strength is a good strategy in its own right - especially as I have just scored some all time absolute (and relative to body weight) deadhang PBs this evening 

[Doylo]

Trying to redpoint your hardest route in shit conditions ain't good.