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The Auctioneer - WCJ Cornice (Read 2764 times)

AlistairB

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The Auctioneer - WCJ Cornice
July 16, 2015, 02:47:20 pm
Was wondering if I could pick UKB's brains on the finish of this. Been on it with a friend and pretty happy we have a decent sequence for the first hard bit with the undercut pinch. Above that some edges lead to a huge span over the final roof which we've been doing by a huge RH throw (annoyingly blind). This takes you past the last bolt and puts you in range of clipping the lower-off, at least with a draw in it anyway. Straight up towards the lower-off we couldn't find any holds so have been looping out left via. crimps with a right heel-toe in to eventually end up on some poor sloping stuff just above the lower-off. This seems a bit of a disappointment compared to the rest of the route in terms of quality and also seems to finish completely in the middle of nowhere.

Thing is, the Cockfax says to pull past the lower-off to finishing jugs just above or something like that. Neither of us has found anything even vaguely resembling a jug up there yet. Anyone got any advice for where it ends and how to get there? Beta for the huge throw is also welcome as I'm currently missing the hold worryingly often.

Paul B

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#1 Re: The Auctioneer - WCJ Cornice
July 16, 2015, 04:42:38 pm
A bit hazy on this one:

So the name came about from "going once, going twice, going again" I believe. However, I think it was easier to go twice with one hand (right?) and then over with the other hand.

You'll note some glue on the footholds to the left at this point, this is because I dropped this move a number of times due to losing footholds at the crucial moments.

I can't remember a definitive jug at the top, just a few disappointing crimps that lead to something fairly decent and a clipping position (to the left of the chains). I can't remember heading way out left though.

KC should know the finishing beta as it was him that ensured I was going high enough. I don't know what made it into the final script (currently at work) but I'd written this in an email to Ian Carr at lot nearer to my RP:

Quote
18m      After an east start move left and then upwards via an obvious large undercut block. A few easier pulls lead to the infamous move (giving the route its name); going once, going twice, the third is up to you. Finish past the belay on an obvious good hold.

mrjonathanr

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#2 Re: The Auctioneer - WCJ Cornice
July 16, 2015, 08:36:21 pm


You'll note some glue on the footholds to the left at this point, this is because I dropped this move a number of times due to losing footholds at the crucial moments.


Nice little foothold on Free Monster for getting stood in very first break is like this, on its way out if not glued I think.

Paul B

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#3 The Auctioneer - WCJ Cornice
July 16, 2015, 09:32:47 pm
I repaired that, Auctioneer and rumble the same day and then went and ripped a large hold off Rubicon. Peak Lime!

 

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