[gme]

!
[/quote]

BMC couldn't even be bothered to ask the walls to support the Team this year, they did it last year and raised a few grand (we were the 1st to donate £500 and it was my idea). This year the Team has no sponsor and no support from the walls.

[/quote]

Do they not have a full time wall/comp guy anymore, and regional development people.

[T_B]

Who really challenged Shuana except a visiting French student?

Last year's winner decided to go trad climbing according to the BMC news item. The event needs more than just live video coverage, it needs PRIZE MONEY too. Then you'd get the best competitors in the country and that in turn would generate more interest.

Michaela is still injured, and Pete don't forget that Michaela was in the finals of the World Champs last year so is pretty handy.

She didn't look that injured at the Tor a few weeks before the event, but I guess comp climbing puts demands on the body that pulling on polished crimps doesn't.

[T_B]

!

BMC couldn't even be bothered to ask the walls to support the Team this year, they did it last year and raised a few grand (we were the 1st to donate £500 and it was my idea). This year the Team has no sponsor and no support from the walls.

[/quote]

Do they not have a full time wall/comp guy anymore, and regional development people.
[/quote]

http://community.thebmc.co.uk/Profile.aspx?id=11

[petejh]

Michaela is still injured, and Pete don't forget that Michaela was in the finals of the World Champs last year so is pretty handy.

And saying that Fanny is "a visiting French student" is a little understated, you could easily have said "visiting French Team member and World Cup medallist who happens to be studying for a short while in Sheffield"

Yeah I was aware Fanny's a comp wad, 'visiting student' was a bit flippant! She's the only one who was close to matching Shuana though that's the point. A few male and female competitors like that all around the same level would make for a great final. And I doubt she's got much to worry about from the uk contingent.
nb. for Dense - that shouldn't be misconstrued as me moaning that it's boring, merely an observation of objective facts.

[tomtom]

I'm going for a wet shave

With Down?

[tim palmer]

'The only world class boulderer who entered the men's won'. Well blow me down, the only world class boulderer who entered a national comp won? And this bores you
And people say I'm mad

I think that is unfair to Barrans, he was just a bit hampered by being bit short for the problem he didn't do; he can clearly mix with the international guys in the CWIF and whenever he does bother to climb outdoors he has utterly crushed some hard stuff.

I accept he hasn't done much in the world cup for a few years but he has been the sole representative for the best part of a decade and it must be hard operating in a vacuum of support, talent and motivation.

[a dense loner]

I was stating quite explicitly that barrans is world class when taken with my other statements, I was drawing Pete out for his ridiculous argument.
Strangely I also knew dave came 2nd which was why I asked the question, I also knew every name from the China comp.
Keep up Tim, spending all your time with the dead is starting to hamper your time with the living.

[Stu Littlefair]

I've been mulling this over for a day or two, and have actually watched the video now. On the off chance that Pigeon wants more useful feedback, here we go.

1) Thanks for trying again. The effort really is appreciated.

2) The chaps at BMC TV really haven't understood the type of video people want. To be honest, a short highlight video is fine, but before editing it you need to watch any highlights program of any sporting event ever. They go like this...

There's a bit of context setting.

There's the bit in the middle where they show what happened, with commentary. In a comp context this would include how people did on the various problems, in order. Which were the critical/deciding problems. Who came in what positions. This is basically most of the program.

There's the bit at the end, often over the end credits, where a condensed grab bag of "best shots" is shown in a montage to some music.

3) BMC TV have basically made two versions of the end credit sequence with differing lengths, whereas most people want and expect all three bits to make a conventional highlights program.

I hope that helps?

[Lund]

I was stating quite explicitly that barrans is world class when taken with my other statements, I was drawing Pete out for his ridiculous argument.
Strangely I also knew dave came 2nd which was why I asked the question, I also knew every name from the China comp.
Keep up Tim, spending all your time with the dead is starting to hamper your time with the living.

Fuck me, well in that case I'd stick to unpunctuated oddly capitalised straight bullshit puncturing.  The sarcasm didn't come across at all well.

[tim palmer]

I was stating quite explicitly that barrans is world class when taken with my other statements, I was drawing Pete out for his ridiculous argument.
Strangely I also knew dave came 2nd which was why I asked the question, I also knew every name from the China comp.
Keep up Tim, spending all your time with the dead is starting to hamper your time with the living.

Fuck me, well in that case I'd stick to unpunctuated oddly capitalised straight bullshit puncturing.  The sarcasm didn't come across at all well.

I didn't appreciate it either but with the retrospectoscope i can sort of see what you were poking at, kind of! 

On a separate note, what is the prize money for the BBC? 

[petejh]

I was stating quite explicitly that barrans is world class when taken with my other statements, I was drawing Pete out for his ridiculous argument.
Strangely I also knew dave came 2nd which was why I asked the question, I also knew every name from the China comp.
Keep up Tim, spending all your time with the dead is starting to hamper your time with the living.

The only thing I can take away from your posts Dense is that our definitions of a world class comp boulderer are different. At the risk of offending Barrans even more than I already have by looking at the facts, a single 3rd place 6 years ago doesn't (imo) make somone 'world class' standard today. It wouldn't for example meet the criteria for entry in ukb's next list: 'men who have recently podium'd at a world cup' 

[a dense loner]

What had Tyler ever done in a bouldering comp to make him stand out as world class?

Did everyone reading that understand what I just asked? Do I need to semi defend my question with the caveat of I know, and so does everyone with eyes, that Tyler is absolutely quite easily one of the worlds best boulderers yet I don't recall him being a world class (as Pete would imply) comp climber.

[petejh]

What had Tyler ever done in a bouldering comp to make him stand out as world class?

Well going off your interpretation, beating another 'world class comp boulderer' would be an indicator.

This is getting a bit tedious and off-topic - you're right he's got no world-class comp pedigree, but the one comp he enters he wins placing ahead of the UK's best comp boulderer without much trouble.  I think everyone would agree that he's a boulderer of world-class standard. That isn't a criticism of anyone, it's what happened. It's a sample size of one and maybe he'll never enter another comp.

[Lund]

What had Tyler ever done in a bouldering comp to make him stand out as world class?

Did everyone reading that understand what I just asked? Do I need to semi defend my question with the caveat of I know, and so does everyone with eyes, that Tyler is absolutely quite easily one of the worlds best boulderers yet I don't recall him being a world class (as Pete would imply) comp climber.

Dense, why are you asking a rhetorical question?  It's getting a bit annoying.

What point are you actually trying to make?  Can you not just make it now please?

[a dense loner]

I'm making the point of Pete belittling every other climber in the field is a bit harsh, which is fine for the most part but not when the runner up is also world class.

If we're starting to be funny what does "can you not just make it now please" mean? Is that English?

[petejh]

I'm not belittling every other climber in the field - nice exaggeration for effect there! I'm not attempting to belittle anybody (which you think is fine anyway?).

FFS it's not 'belittling' to think that 'world-class' actually means something, and isn't a term that can be applied just so as not to offend someone.

[tim palmer]

the one comp he enters he wins placing ahead of the UK's best comp boulderer without much trouble.  I think everyone would agree that he's a boulderer of world-class standard. That isn't a criticism of anyone, it's what happened. It's a sample size of one and maybe he'll never enter another comp.

I don't think he did beat him comfortably, the difference was height and iffy setting.  If he was that much better he would have won the semis and the qualifiers (which he didn't by quite a long way).

[Lund]

I'm making the point of Pete belittling every other climber in the field is a bit harsh, which is fine for the most part but not when the runner up is also world class.

If we're starting to be funny what does "can you not just make it now please" mean? Is that English?

You belittling my forum engrish is both pointless and ironic, and makes you seem like a cock.  Why are we descending to that level all of a sudden?

Pete said this:

Another potential reason for lack of interest might be the lack of genuine top-level UK competitors in UK bouldering comps. Who really challenged Shuana except a visiting French student? In the mens event, the only world-class boulderer who entered won. Growth would attract more good climbers to want to train and to compete in the BBCs.

The point was about the lack of strength in depth of the UK competition squad.  Arguing about whether Barrans is world-class or not is interesting, but whatever the conclusion, I don't think Pete is miles out, factually, even if he's not precise, in that we don't have that many athletes who threaten finals at WCs, or by any other measure.

It would have been much more interesting to challenge the paragraph itself - I'm sure the French have a good national competition, yet there aren't hordes of frenchies in the WC finals?  What about the US?  What's theirs like?  The canadians?

As it is we've wasted thousands of bytes sidling around whether Barrans is world-class or not.

[petejh]

I don't think he did beat him comfortably, the difference was height and iffy setting.  If he was that much better he would have won the semis and the qualifiers (which he didn't by quite a long way).

Is this the general consensus? If so (un)fair enough.

Pete said this:

Another potential reason for lack of interest might be the lack of genuine top-level UK competitors in UK bouldering comps. Who really challenged Shuana except a visiting French student? In the mens event, the only world-class boulderer who entered won. Growth would attract more good climbers to want to train and to compete in the BBCs.

The point was about the lack of strength in depth of the UK competition squad.  Arguing about whether Barrans is world-class or not is interesting, but whatever the conclusion, I don't think Pete is miles out, factually, even if he's not precise, in that we don't have that many athletes who threaten finals at WCs, or by any other measure.

It would have been much more interesting to challenge the paragraph itself - I'm sure the French have a good national competition, yet there aren't hordes of frenchies in the WC finals?  What about the US?  What's theirs like?  The canadians?

Can someone drag up the stats for podium places in world cups 2009 to-date (so we get at least one male) so we can see how the UK's best comp climbers compare to other nations?

[a dense loner]

I was stating quite explicitly that barrans is world class when taken with my other statements, I was drawing Pete out for his ridiculous argument.
Strangely I also knew dave came 2nd which was why I asked the question, I also knew every name from the China comp.
Keep up Tim, spending all your time with the dead is starting to hamper your time with the living.

Fuck me, well in that case I'd stick to unpunctuated oddly capitalised straight bullshit puncturing.  The sarcasm didn't come across at all well.

You said I was attacking your forum English? I'm sure I was replying to this, your post a few up, strangely attacking my forum English. Bizarre, I'm obviously such a tosser who attacks someone for no reason

[GraemeA]

Ty has been in 1 final, Vail 2008. And finished last in the final.
Dave has been in a few finals, maybe 3 or 4 including a World Championship where he got on the podium.

Dave has done way more comps than Ty. so who has the best record, well Dave obviously as he has a medal.

[Lund]

I was stating quite explicitly that barrans is world class when taken with my other statements, I was drawing Pete out for his ridiculous argument.
Strangely I also knew dave came 2nd which was why I asked the question, I also knew every name from the China comp.
Keep up Tim, spending all your time with the dead is starting to hamper your time with the living.

Fuck me, well in that case I'd stick to unpunctuated oddly capitalised straight bullshit puncturing.  The sarcasm didn't come across at all well.

You said I was attacking your forum English? I'm sure I was replying to this, your post a few up, strangely attacking my forum English. Bizarre, I'm obviously such a tosser who attacks someone for no reason

Strangely?  Your posts have always struck me as kind of unique, e.g.

You've never had a conversation with me about this! I look I listen I understand. If different people stand there saying you should hear Daves views on the 30, every things piss and citing that as an example, then i come to think of you thinking its piss. The board being at the wrong angle only helps the tall, if it was the correct angle the move would be smaller. Ergo id be able to piss it 

Now whats this got to do with WOB i ask myself

If you don't want people to form that opinion, then don't consistently fail to punctuate or capitalise correctly, whilst at the same time generally talking sense.

In any case, the second half of my comment, "straight bullshit puncturing", was a compliment, indeed the whole sentence was supposed to be fairly complimentary.  Soz if you took it another way.  Honestly, it wasn't intended as an insult.

All so great.

In the second half of this thread you've been a bit of a dick, not sure why.  Maybe you and Pete used to have a thing for each other or something.

[Durbs]

Can someone drag up the stats for podium places in world cups 2009 to-date (so we get at least one male) so we can see how the UK's best comp climbers compare to other nations?

2015 (current) to 2010 - Men only, total entrants by country:

USA   51
FRA   49
JPN   45
RUS   32
GER   28
CAN   26
GBR   26
AUT   25
ITA   22
SUI   21
SLO   19
CHN   18
NED   18
AUS   12
ESP   11
KOR   11
POL   11
CZE   10
UKR   7
HKG   6
MEX   6
FIN   5
LAT   4
MAS   4
SWE   4
IRI   3
LTU   3
THA   3
BLR   2
KAZ   2
BEL   1
COL   1
DEN   1
GEO   1
HUN   1
IRL   1
ISR   1
NOR   1
RSA   1
SIN   1
SVK   1
VEN   1

Row Labels	2010	2011	2012	2013	2014	2015	Grand Total
AUS	1	1	2	3	2	3	12
AUT	5	5	5	5	3	2	25
BEL			1				1
BLR	2						2
CAN	1	8	1	6	7	3	26
CHN			5	6	5	2	18
COL	1						1
CZE	1	2	1	2	2	2	10
DEN						1	1
ESP	2	4	1	1	3		11
FIN		2	1	2			5
FRA	14	11	7	6	6	5	49
GBR	5	5	6	5	4	1	26
GEO					1		1
GER	4	5	6	6	5	2	28
HKG			2	1	2	1	6
HUN	1						1
IRI					2	1	3
IRL		1					1
ISR					1		1
ITA	6	5	3	2	4	2	22
JPN	5	5	7	10	10	8	45
KAZ				1	1		2
KOR		2	1	1	4	3	11
LAT	1			1	1	1	4
LTU	1			1	1		3
MAS			1	3			4
MEX		1	1	1	2	1	6
NED	4	3	3	3	3	2	18
NOR	1						1
POL	3		1	2	3	2	11
RSA		1					1
RUS	9	5	3	5	8	2	32
SIN						1	1
SLO	2	5	2	5	3	2	19
SUI	4	5	3	4	3	2	21
SVK		1					1
SWE	1		1		2		4
THA				2	1		3
UKR	2	1	1	3			7
USA	8	11	10	8	10	4	51
VEN		1					1

[GraemeA]

Source?

The 2nd table shows what exactly? Certainly not Boulder World Cup medals or even LWC or SWC as I know that Hong Kong certainly haven't won any medals

[GraemeA]

Actually that 1st table is inaccurate - there was a car load from Ireland at Laval last year, Daragh; Juan and Dom were definitely there.