[abarro81]

I'm with Doylo on this one. Most shorties I know find the R&H move ok, most tallies don't so it might be a good one if you're small? Or maybe I'm just making excuses. Salar is steady, at least if you're tall. It's not particularly good though.

[T_B]

Open to other route suggestions if anyone can chip in though. I think short and bouldering is going to have to be the way until I've ticked my first one, then I'm happy to siege some longer stuff.

Suggestion 1 is look at Powerplant again. Classic mistake is dismissing something after dogging up it once (especially in the cold!). It is undoubtedly one of the most doable 8a's in the Peak, plus it's very good and if in condition, there will be people motivated to go to the Cornice. Suggestion 2: Forget about knee barring the crux. I never understood why people bother with faffing with knee bars when the crux is a really nice move with your feet in the right place and a drop knee. R & H, HFC both have harder cruxes, Free Monster is 7c+ IMO but I think it helps to be tall on the crux?

[T_B]

Most shorties I know find the R&H move ok, most tallies don't so it might be a good one if you're small?

I tried this again the other week, seeing as I'm 'going well'. I don't think I'll ever do it, I just don't seem to fit.

[iain]

STG: Secret Gudgeon Society, Dominatrix, Body Machine from break
S/MTG: The Prow (maybe full), Stone the Loach and E4/5 lime trad.
MTG: Dolomites in September

M: Unexpected Works session, 3rd day on. Try not to do too much but get sucked in and leave feeling worn out, schoolboy error as I then ...

T: Cancel evening at the Tor as I'm done in. Rest.

W: Physical work all day results in sub-par Works session in the evening.

T: Lawrencefield. Do Great Peter to warm up (stiff start) then partner gets on Billy Whizz and hands me the rope after falling. Not really got my head in the game and wind up sitting on the rope and thrutching my way to the top, felt a bit of a failure really.

F: Rest

S: Can't muster the energy to climb so rest.

S: Tor in the am. Clips are already in Body Machine and the obliging owners don't mind me squeezing redpoints between their goes (thanks Jim and Tom!). Take time warming up and 1st redpoint from break make lots of little mistakes which add up to me falling going over the bulge, 2nd redpoint has less mistakes and I scrabble my way to the top 
Partner wants more volume so head to Embankment and get back on, and do, Secret Gudgeon Society.

Tired all week so training quality/volume felt poor, but week rescued by yesterday's sends, good day.
This coming weekend is my last for sport climbing till the end of August so trying to arrange getting back up to Kilnsey for Dominatrix.

[gme]

Mon- Yoga 45 mins. Starting to get more flexible again which feels good.
Tues- School- foot on campus. Managed 8 reps of 1 min on 2 mins off on medium rungs, failed on last set. Rings and bar work.
Wed - Aerocap in works. Hot. 75 problems up and down in 45 mins.
Thurs- as wednesday but with more skin pain.
Fri- Yoga 45 mins
Sat- Kyloe in, managed 7-8 problems to 6C+ before i gave up due to midge. Worst i have encountered in a long time. Went to Bowden and did 25+ problems upto 7A. Finger not great though.
Sun- School- Foot on campus 8x 1min on 2 min off, felt easy. 8 x 1min on 1 min off, fail on last two sets. rings and bar for 80 mins. Rally good session.

Good week of volume. My improvement curve on foot on campus is just ridiculous. It must be a technique thing not physical, or maybe Barrows aura is rubbing off on me.

Do people think i should add more sets? ie do 3 sets of 8x1x1, increase the time on the board? i.e. 2 x 8 x 90sec x 90 sec  or reduce the rest time more 2 x 8 x 1 x 30 sec.


 I also managed 6 dips on the rings which is a big improvement.
I now have a week of eating and drinking as out with colleagues and clients 4 nights in a row. Not sure how much training i will fit in.

[fatneck]

STG - Climb outdoors more/do less fishing
MTG - Get some more 7a's done this year/do more fishing
LTG - Stop smoking again. Get below 14 stone again

Mon - Walk to and from work. Pilates.
Tue - Walk to and from work. Lunchtime gym sesh - Deadlifts (pyramid from 40kg up to bodyweight - been a while but felt ok), BO Rows (3x10@20kg), Tricep extensions (3x10@15kg), Bicep curls (3x10@15kg), squatts (3x10@30kg - hard but good to get technique sorted looking to increase weight steadily over the coming weeks)
Wed - Bus. Doms. Lunch time cardio sesh - 5 km on bike/10 minutes and 5 minutes on the rower.
Thurs - Walk. Pilates
Fri - Walk. Rest. Evening fly fishing session. Nice to feel like I'm getting to grips with the dry fly lark.
Sat - weather dictated housework in the morning, then went the pictures, then hooked up with Richie "8b" Hession and soon to be Mrs Hesison at Angel Bay. Mrs Fatneck did pretty well and I managed to retro Bridey's - always a pleasure. Did lots of easier stuff and worked sit start to Bridey's Arete. Managed to get the first move then failed wildly on the next move into the stand - Rich thought it might warrant 7a. Checked guide when i got home, turns out I did it 7 years ago! Keen to go back...
Sun - Father's Day - got spoiled, ate lots of cheese..

Decided to get back into the gym at work this week as climbing is minimal at the moment. Kind of sacked it off a couple of months ago to focus on Pilates but now at the stage with Pilates where I can get through a session and not feel totally broken the next day!

[T_B]

85.6Kg
 
M - Back still sore
T - Back not good in the morning, so deliberate whether or not I should be climbing. Make arrangements to head to Badger Cove. Static rope, ladder etc. Drop right foot off for big 3rd move to pocket and this is the key for me latching it. Next move is a flick into an undercut, move feet and get right foot high on a tiny spike for the big throw into the obvious round hole. Fall off move to hole about 3 times. Check out the top on a rope. There are big finishing pockets directly above the hole, but apparently the FA finished going leftwards?
W - Back better after falling onto it lots yesterday evening  See a Podiatrist and get some orthotics.
T - School lunch. Bit lacking in focus. Tried Dawid's 8A on the 30 degree which has a similar move on it to Badger.
F - Eldest child in full itches of Chicken Pox
S - P.M. Team Badger Cove, except that we arrive to warm up at Blackwell Dale and it's gopped out and Badger's is similar aspect. Decide instead to see whether Freda's butt is catching the breeze. She is! Warm ups then get stuck into Infinite Suspense. There's more video beta since I tried this a couple of years ago. Dave tries to deadpoint it, I try and get the drop knee  in, but it's desperately bunched and I can barely get it on, never mind weight it. But wait, can I stick a knee bar in behind the fin? Seems like the natural thuggy thing to do. Have one go sans knee pad and realise it'll work. Stick a knee pad on and hey presto, next go reach statically to the crimps and finish. Others try this method and it's not unanimous, so not sure whether it's knocked a grade/s off this classic?
S - Back still grumbling.
 
Not much training this week as was in resting mode for Badger. Rain and seepage isn't too promising for this coming week, plus awaiting youngest child to get the pox and more sh*t nights...

[Three Nine]

Any chance of link to vid with kneebar method?

[abarro81]

Most shorties I know find the R&H move ok, most tallies don't so it might be a good one if you're small?

I tried this again the other week, seeing as I'm 'going well'. I don't think I'll ever do it, I just don't seem to fit.

I remember getting back on it just before/after I did Kaabah, thinking I'd just finish up some unfinished business quickly. About 30min later I'd failed to do the move in isolation and given up.

I never understood why people bother with faffing with knee bars when the crux is a really nice move with your feet in the right place and a drop knee.

Because the move probably isn't the crux with a kneebar 

[Doylo]

On ones of my best days ever I did Salar ,Out of my Tree and Staminaband but couldn't touch that move on R & H. Shorties move for sure.

[T_B]

Any chance of link to vid with kneebar method?

No vid, but a longer description would be hand holds as per normal meth, match left foot below right foot on obvious big foothold so that you can bring your right foot up into the scoop above (my left arm is fully locked at this point). Place right foot on white rougher rock in base of scoop and throw right knee behind hand into fin. Dave was struggling to get his knee around hand/arm and reckoned his leg might be too long?, James (Highrepute?) could get it in but trapped his hand a few times and didn't feel solid on it so despatched using drop knee meth (he's short).

[T_B]

Most shorties I know find the R&H move ok, most tallies don't so it might be a good one if you're small?

I tried this again the other week, seeing as I'm 'going well'. I don't think I'll ever do it, I just don't seem to fit.

I remember getting back on it just before/after I did Kaabah, thinking I'd just finish up some unfinished business quickly. About 30min later I'd failed to do the move in isolation and given up.

I never understood why people bother with faffing with knee bars when the crux is a really nice move with your feet in the right place and a drop knee.

Because the move probably isn't the crux with a kneebar 

Where's the crux then? Can't see how it can be 8a without the crux getting feet over the o/lap as the next bit is not that bad once you have it wired.

[dave]

Any chance of link to vid with kneebar method?

No vid, but a longer description would be hand holds as per normal meth, match left foot below right foot on obvious big foothold so that you can bring your right foot up into the scoop above (my left arm is fully locked at this point). Place right foot on white rougher rock in base of scoop and throw right knee behind hand into fin. Dave was struggling to get his knee around hand/arm and reckoned his leg might be too long?, James (Highrepute?) could get it in but trapped his hand a few times and didn't feel solid on it so despatched using drop knee meth (he's short).

You lanky short-shinned motherfuckers make me sick.

[abarro81]

Where's the crux then? Can't see how it can be 8a without the crux getting feet over the o/lap as the next bit is not that bad once you have it wired.

I don't know, I just remember finding that knee move no harder than any of the others. There was a gaston move above where I was closer to falling, but I might just have ballsed the feet up as I was just following instructions as I went ( ( n all that).
I like the Infinite suspense knowledge, I'd wondered about a knee on that when I had a play last year but couldn't seem to get my RF up nicely to slot it in, will have to have a rematch

[Three Nine]

is more power-endurancy than bouldery, even without a kneepad. I thought Freemonster was much harder.

[Schnell]

STG: fix fingers
MTG: 7B in font in autumn/7C in 2015/6 bouldering season

M: easy bouldering session. after reading Make or Break I've realised I need to start gently and progressively loading the injured a2 in crimp position to get it to start healing, so did some very gentle hangs which felt ok.
T. shoulder stability
W. am, did more easy loading of injured finger. feeling good. PM easyish bouldering, got slightly sucked in to trying a problem with a mate which led to a very minor twinge in the finger
T. shoulder stability.
F. more indoor bouldering, no twinges and started trying stuff that was hard enough that I was falling off. A good feeling after two months of easy mileage. Still, the level I'm falling off now is pretty low so it's not saying much.
S. easy crimped loading of finger, increased weight slightly, still feeling ok. also shoulder stuff.
S. indoor session similar to other days. bit of a twinge in the pulley but nothing serious. also did some shoulders

A good week of finger rehab and getting back to something close to normal bouldering, albeit without crimping. Make or Break has changed my approach to finger injury rehab quite a lot. I've realised I need to load the finger a bit, even if it twinges occasionally. Obviously finding the balance there is tough. In the meantime my power club entries are going to be dull as anything because I'm basically swearing off trying anything hard outdoors til the injuries are all fixed.

[cheque]

Get well soon jwi!

Go and have a look at Marie-Rose, I've been avoiding trying this until I thought I had a fighting chance. Get up to the move up for the first sloper, can't decide wether to lank it or, dink my foot up a bit.

Get your foot up. I found the reds at Cuvier to be nails. So polished! La Suzanne (no.20) is OK though.

STG- Finish film without becoming irretrievably crap at climbing. YYFY 

New STG is 7a or above on lime before September 18th.

MTG- 100 routes at 24HHH and The Show Me State in September, Wall of Horrors in October.

LTG- 9a at 48.

Didn't climb or train at all until Sunday, when I went to Stanage Plantation (cold wind meant that it was in ideal condition for trad but almost deserted!) with a mate who hadn't climbed for more than a year. Bumbled about completely knackered and not motivated to try hard but did some fun routes and had a laugh.

This week was all about finishing my film. I worked on it 'til 2-3AM every night and got up for work at 7AM every day apart from Friday. It all paid off on Friday night though, when I realised that I might actually have made a quality chuffing video! Makes up for 14 months of putting that ahead of my climbing performance for sure, but now is the time to get back to my climbing. I'm injury free, reasonably fit from the limestone traversing I've been doing and a month of abstinence from chocloate has seen me lose the weight I'd gradually put on. Let's go!

Cornwall this weekend but after that I'm going to get back on pennine lime sport. After watching that cool Personal Limits film I'm psyched for Raven Tor. If anyone on here needs a belay and is willing to help me siege the fuck out of whatever the best entry-level route is (Sardine?) then get in touch!

[nai]

My improvement curve on foot on campus is just ridiculous. It must be a technique thing not physical, or maybe Barrows aura is rubbing off on me.

Do people think i should add more sets? ie do 3 sets of 8x1x1, increase the time on the board? i.e. 2 x 8 x 90sec x 90 sec  or reduce the rest time more 2 x 8 x 1 x 30 sec.

Kinda depends on your end goals, which would suit the routes you're training for better.
I'm currently doing 60s work on small rungs to train for short, sharp Peak cruxes.
Over summer I'll adjust this to 2 minutes on medium rungs to prepare for PE/Raindogs.
I reckon bringing the rest down to half of the work time is a good aim then making it harder but again depends on which end of the PE spectrum your aims are.
Are you pausing on each hold or just laddering as fast as you can?  I make better gains from the former which is much harder and more specific, something like 4-5s on each rung is about right.

[duncan]

74.5kg! 

STG: OS E3. Double or Quits (by 19th July)
MTG: E5 by end of September. Get flock of ducks in a row to enable trip to Picos, amongst others, this summer.
LTG: Long hard (for me) rock routes in the Alps, Dolomites, Picos and Scotland. 7b+ RP.


M -
T-
W -
T -
F - Shoulder stability stuff
S - DIY (shoulder intensive). Shoulder rehab.
S - Westway - short, easy session

A low week, mentally and physically, but good to get even the most minimal of training done on Sunday. Need to get to work on my general hill fitness and weight in belated preparation for chuffaneering this summer. I finally have a physio. appointment for my hip, so of course this has started to improve in anticipation!

Plan: build up mileage on rock and plastic. Do some kind of exercise every day. One fingerboard session a week.

[gme]

/quote]

Kinda depends on your end goals, which would suit the routes you're training for better.
I'm currently doing 60s work on small rungs to train for short, sharp Peak cruxes.
Over summer I'll adjust this to 2 minutes on medium rungs to prepare for PE/Raindogs.
I reckon bringing the rest down to half of the work time is a good aim then making it harder but again depends on which end of the PE spectrum your aims are.
Are you pausing on each hold or just laddering as fast as you can?  I make better gains from the former which is much harder and more specific, something like 4-5s on each rung is about right.
[/quote]

Is this correct. If you have to match the duration of exercise to route length people would be doing 5-10 minutes. Even for medium length peak routes it would be 2-3. I thought the correlation between the exercise time and rest time was the important thing.
I am not pausing on olds but not climbing really fast either. Again would this make any difference. I cant see that there is any cross over to climbing and would have thought the object is to get pumped. As long as this is achieved is there any difference if this is gained by going fast or slow. In my mind i dont spend 4-5 seconds holding two holds on a route between moves so would seem as artificial as climbing really fast.

I am not dismissing your points just trying to get my head around what is the best way to go with my training.

Unfortunately dont have a specific goal as only doing this training due to a finger injury preventing me doing much else. I do however have a perverse dream of doing longer routes.

[T_B]

Gav - what energy system are you training? I'm a bit confused.

[abarro81]

Is this correct. If you have to match the duration of exercise to route length people would be doing 5-10 minutes. Even for medium length peak routes it would be 2-3. I thought the correlation between the exercise time and rest time was the important thing.

You're not really training for the whole route, just the sections between rests. If your blocks are too long you'll struggle to get the volume in that you want. Anacdotally, I've never done more than 1.30 on for my foot-on-campus, but have gone down to rests as short as 10-15s for 1min on and will do the same in future.

I cant see that there is any cross over to climbing and would have thought the object is to get pumped. As long as this is achieved is there any difference if this is gained by going fast or slow. In my mind i dont spend 4-5 seconds holding two holds on a route between moves so would seem as artificial as climbing really fast.

I think it's better with a pause, and you almost certainly will spend 4-8s on each hold on a route when moving feet etc, let along clipping. Onsighting is liable to be even longer. I tend to think that with metabolic stuff (i.e. energy systems stuff) you want to be as specific as possible in terms of length of contractions, hence why I've hung draws up and trailed ropes around down the school before. That said, I don't think it's good to climb circuits at artificial speeds as you'll learn to climb badly, I don't think that's an issue with foot-on-campus though.

If you're not going to use the fitness in the near future then it doesn't matter anyway, to a large extent, because the adaptations from this type of training aren't that long lasting compared to strength or the capacities.

[nai]

Just spent 10 minutes trying to type what Alex says.

What Alex says....

[gme]

Gav - what energy system are you training? I'm a bit confused.

I have no fucking idea. Reading Alexs training thingy Aerobic power i guess. I have not chosen to do this but am struggling to do much else, cant boulder, cant do normal campus (can a little but needed loads of rest afterwards as finger swells up), cant do hard enough moves to do Ancap so a bit stuck.

Doing Aerocap as well. Still have the idea of doing 8a this year so getting fit will help.

The old fashioned bit of me likes this exercise as it feels like your doing something.

Bit dis heartening to see Alex say adaptations dont last long though.

[abarro81]

I always find finger board the safest when injured