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UK's hardest problem (again) (Read 27450 times)

JackAus

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#75 Re: UK's hardest problem (again)
June 18, 2015, 01:24:24 am
SB/PUTP - off the top if my head Gaskins, McClure, Smitton, Sharik something or other from Australia, CWP..

Pads won't really be that relevant for belly of the beast since the kneebar is no hands without a pad. To create a hard link that's not eliminate CWP should have used Nacho's low start to keen as it stays away from the bens roof knee.

Sharik Walker.  :thumbsup:

abarro81

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#76 Re: UK's hardest problem (again)
June 18, 2015, 07:47:51 am
Does he still climb do you know? He was a strong mo fo

dave

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#77 Re: UK's hardest problem (again)
June 18, 2015, 08:14:26 am
Dave, I'm sure it was you who once said of another dabtastic video "That's just hillwalking with a bad sequence".

Found it:

those dabs are so mad its more like hillwalking with a bad sequence rather than climbing.

a dense loner

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#78 Re: UK's hardest problem (again)
June 18, 2015, 08:56:13 am
Pls don't talk bollocks about knee bars Alex. Doylo showed me your knee bar rest on pilgrimage at the end of rock atrocity

abarro81

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#79 Re: UK's hardest problem (again)
June 18, 2015, 09:42:55 am
What are you on about Dense, that Ben's Roof knee has been used and abused without pads for ages. There's 2 obvious ways to do BotB in my opinion - either with the line CWP used, and the kneebar, or going into Nacho's line for Keen Roof Extension (see below), thus avoiding the knee. (There's still a knee in the pod on Keen, and that does need a pad to work well, but it's not a resting knee it's a moving knee.) Doing the CWP line without the knee seems much less appealing than the above 2 options to my mind.



a dense loner

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#80 Re: UK's hardest problem (again)
June 18, 2015, 09:51:30 am
What has nachos line got to do with anything? Did cwp do and name BotB for nachos line or for the line he climbed? Fuckin eliminates.

As an aside nearly every time I try to move pages I get a blank screen, anyone else?

abarro81

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#81 Re: UK's hardest problem (again)
June 18, 2015, 09:56:33 am
I was responding to this:
That list also doesn't contain CWP's belly of the beast so prob needs updating. This was given 8B+ with cheating kneepads, no kneepads a la the f.a. would make this a different proposition.
and pointing out that it's not 'cheating kneepads' that would make the difference (for most people's sequence), it's the elimination of the kneebar, which is perfectly useable without pads (unlike, say, most of the pilgrimage ones). As an aside, I then pointed out that doing CWP's line and eliminating the knee is dumb considering that there's an alternative line, presumably at a similar grade, which would naturally avoid the knee anyway.

As an aside nearly every time I try to move pages I get a blank screen, anyone else?
Yeah, me too.

fatneck

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#82 Re: UK's hardest problem (again)
June 18, 2015, 10:36:17 am
Quote
As an aside nearly every time I try to move pages I get a blank screen, anyone else?

Me too...

SA Chris

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#83 Re: UK's hardest problem (again)
June 18, 2015, 11:09:46 am
Dave, I'm sure it was you who once said of another dabtastic video "That's just hillwalking with a bad sequence".

Found it:

those dabs are so mad its more like hillwalking with a bad sequence rather than climbing.

About a Copley Bros vid IIRC (yes I'm sad)

Fiend

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#84 Re: UK's hardest problem (again)
June 18, 2015, 11:32:38 am
Quote
As an aside nearly every time I try to move pages I get a blank screen, anyone else?

Me too...

JackAus

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#85 Re: UK's hardest problem (again)
June 18, 2015, 12:43:50 pm
Does he still climb do you know? He was a strong mo fo

Sure was. Don't think he does anymore. I live with his old climbing partner and he's pretty sure he doesn't.

Sharik still has unrepeated problems here in Syd.
The Corridor at Frontline (Balkans) he gave it V10. It's had one repeat who gave it V12.
Manhattan V12 has only just seen its 2nd ascent from Tom Farrell who said V13.
And The Blackboard... Another V12 that is still waiting for a 2nd ascent.

These are all problems from the mid 2000s. Some of the stories I hear about him just amaze me...

 

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