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UK's hardest problem (again) (Read 27617 times)

Stewart

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UK's hardest problem (again)
June 09, 2015, 11:24:15 am
I'm sure most of you old gits will have covered this time and again but a quick search of hardest problems only brought up worldwide, interestingly someone had suggest Jade for that.

What are the hardest problems currently in the uk? Presuming shadowplay is now fecked or whatever. Not wanting to reopen the Gaskins debate

Have Il Pirata and walk away ss been repeated/confirmed?
Voyager ss?
Natural Method?
The rail at Bowden?
Monk's life still, it's had a few repeats now?
Gut Buster, Leviathan, Pilgrimage and  Stamina band come to mind, they are all link-ups however

Thoughts?

GCW

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#1 Re: UK's hardest problem (again)
June 09, 2015, 11:29:51 am
Have Il Pirata and walk away ss been repeated/confirmed?


No.  Weak Sam was getting close on Il Pirata but then realised he was using a naughty hold.

Pako

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#2 Re: UK's hardest problem (again)
June 09, 2015, 11:35:20 am
Anyone know how hard the crux move on Monk's Life is meant to be? I heard 8A, is that right?

cofe

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#3 Re: UK's hardest problem (again)
June 09, 2015, 11:53:19 am
Bewilderness.

Fiend

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#4 Re: UK's hardest problem (again)
June 09, 2015, 12:07:49 pm
That Mike Adams thing on the Eastern Lime??

Gallant

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#5 Re: UK's hardest problem (again)
June 09, 2015, 12:08:37 pm
Anyone know how hard the crux move on Monk's Life is meant to be? I heard 8A, is that right?

'To me it seems harder than monk life which is roughly a 7C into a 7C+ move (but sharp so go limiting)'

http://www.beastmaker.co.uk/blogs/news/18054640-thinking-hard-and-climbing-less-hard

Doylo

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#6 Re: UK's hardest problem (again)
June 09, 2015, 12:19:42 pm
I think I know who and what will be posting on this one.

Will Hunt

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#7 Re: UK's hardest problem (again)
June 09, 2015, 12:22:37 pm
Have Il Pirata and walk away ss been repeated/confirmed?


No.  Weak Sam was getting close on Il Pirata but then realised he was using a naughty hold.

If that is true then it sounds like it isn't worth repeating. Do people really give that much of a shit about eliminates?

bendavison

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#8 Re: UK's hardest problem (again)
June 09, 2015, 12:42:55 pm
I'd guess Bewilderness or Serenata for problems without any controversy (but I feel like I'm missing something obvious?). Monk life has had quite a few ascents now (Malc, Earl, Gaskins (?), Micky, Nige, Varian). For all the 'easy' sounding breakdown (I've heard a range of grade breakdowns, but all similar to the one Dan gave), it did take Dan a while, but sounds like there's harder things about.

The Rail, maybe. Though Dan said he thought it was gonna be 8A+ at first! Sounds a touch harder than that...

Doylo

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#9 Re: UK's hardest problem (again)
June 09, 2015, 12:53:55 pm
 the Rail seems epic cos you need absolutely perfect Connies to have any chance  which is rare.

T_B

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#10 Re: UK's hardest problem (again)
June 09, 2015, 01:36:29 pm
Given that a) Ty is a wad who has repeated 8B+ testpieces elsewhere in the world, b) both Moon and McClure had looked at it and c) it faces north, my guess is Smiling Buttress must be up there.

GCW

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#11 Re: UK's hardest problem (again)
June 09, 2015, 02:43:04 pm
Have Il Pirata and walk away ss been repeated/confirmed?


No.  Weak Sam was getting close on Il Pirata but then realised he was using a naughty hold.

If that is true then it sounds like it isn't worth repeating. Do people really give that much of a shit about eliminates?

Have you been to Peak Lime?   :jab:

Will Hunt

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#12 Re: UK's hardest problem (again)
June 09, 2015, 02:58:10 pm
Nope :D

tomtom

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#13 Re: UK's hardest problem (again)
June 09, 2015, 04:48:00 pm
Nope :D

Never bouldered at Almscliff then? :p

Will Hunt

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#14 Re: UK's hardest problem (again)
June 09, 2015, 04:54:23 pm
I think eliminates serve a purpose. Locals crags with obvious eliminate walls (Pisa Wall/Angel Face for instance) make fun playgrounds and training tools and keep things interesting. They're hardly all that inspiring though compared to the likes of voyager ss etc.

Jim

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#15 Re: UK's hardest problem (again)
June 09, 2015, 06:06:09 pm
have you even seen Il Pirata???? It's got to be the shittest looking problem ever, and the fact that it's an eliminate makes it even shitter plus the fact its only about 1.5" above the ground and in a grotty hole

tomtom

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#16 Re: UK's hardest problem (again)
June 09, 2015, 06:10:41 pm

have you even seen Il Pirata???? It's got to be the shittest looking problem ever, and the fact that it's an eliminate makes it even shitter plus the fact its only about 1.5" above the ground and in a grotty hole

Is that the one at Trowbarrow on the left of the stone?

Jim

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#17 Re: UK's hardest problem (again)
June 09, 2015, 06:14:44 pm
yes I think so. been a long time since I last went

petejh

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#18 Re: UK's hardest problem (again)
June 09, 2015, 06:16:29 pm
have you even seen Il Pirata???? It's got to be the shittest looking problem ever, and the fact that it's an eliminate makes it even shitter plus the fact its only about 1.5" above the ground and in a grotty hole

Parisellas:
Eliminate: tick
Shit-looking: tick
Grotty hole: tick
1.5'' above ground: negative, approx 6'5'' above ground.

Classic.

Whyatt

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#19 Re: UK's hardest problem (again)
June 09, 2015, 06:35:32 pm
Green traverse

tomtom

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#20 Re: UK's hardest problem (again)
June 09, 2015, 07:06:53 pm

Doylo

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#21 Re: UK's hardest problem (again)
June 09, 2015, 07:15:05 pm
Parisella's is the best polished, grotty, shithole Cave in the world.

petejh

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#22 Re: UK's hardest problem (again)
June 09, 2015, 07:17:17 pm
Only because 'Dulas isn't polished..

tomtom

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#23 Re: UK's hardest problem (again)
June 09, 2015, 07:22:12 pm
Parisella's is the best polished, grotty, shithole Cave in the world.

Intentionally no comma after polished? :)

Whyatt

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#24 Re: UK's hardest problem (again)
June 09, 2015, 07:24:28 pm
[quote auI'dhor=Doylo link=topic=25927.msg490129#msg490129 date=1433873705]
Parisella's is the best polished, grotty, shithole Cave in the world.
[/quote]

No place I'd rather be tho

 

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