[slackline]

You wouldn't want to show Ondra Gaskins problems. They're shit.

Yeah 'cause (at his local crag).

[Doylo]

Exactly, you wouldn't fly to them.

[Boredboy]

An hour and half walk is not going to get the hoards queuing up to repeat, good line or not.

Hour and a half! Never! Even the really long way is only 45 mins. I ran back in 10 mins the other day - it's really not that bad.

Mike Adams states it was over an hour in his intro to the bouldering guide. So you are running 4 minute miles now, next it will be boxing and here we go again.

4 minute mile with a bouldering mat, rack and rope - I think it could be done!

[iwasmexican]

Exactly, you wouldn't fly to them.

And yet of all the problems in RMNP he decided to get on bear toss (a traverse into a problem) and white noise (nothing but traverse)

[Franco]

An hour and half walk is not going to get the hoards queuing up to repeat, good line or not.

Hour and a half! Never! Even the really long way is only 45 mins. I ran back in 10 mins the other day - it's really not that bad.

Mike Adams states it was over an hour in his intro to the bouldering guide. So you are running 4 minute miles now, next it will be boxing and here we go again.

haha!  But no, It's really not. It took me a while to find the best way in, but even with a lot of pads it's not over an hour.

[Greg C]

Exactly, you wouldn't fly to them.

Ha ha. Tell that to the people who fly to Switzerland and spend time working things like the Magic Wood 'classic' footless eliminate problem, Enterprise in Space. I've seen three with my own eyes.

People at all levels travel and aspire to climb things way worse looking than Walk Away- sadly grades speak louder than quality for a lot of folk. Bar the landing (which is fine with pads) At the Heart of it All is a good problem. Based on seeing some pretty good climbers on it (who've climbed a number of the aforementioned lines), that would get my vote for one of the hardest in the UK.

[cheque]

Exactly, you wouldn't fly to them.

Ha ha. Tell that to the people who fly to Switzerland and spend time working things like the Magic Wood 'classic' footless eliminate problem, Enterprise in Space. I've seen three with my own eyes.

When I googled that I found what may be the world's worst bouldering video.



Dab. 

[tomtom]

:D I think someone should re-edit that with "oops" bubbles over the dabs, or pixelate the foot at the appropriate moment (like they do in below the belt photo's of Dense)..

[turnipturned]

Interesting how there are so many 8B+ these days that even with all these posts they haven't all been mentioned.

According to UKEBI {http://eliteukbinventory.blogspot.co.uk - well good site if you like lists}  The UK has 23 8B+ and 4 8C's (added a couple that are missed off)

8B+/V14

Second Coming- Repeated by Varian (Thought it was 8B+)
Mixed emotions- Unrepeated (long walk has put off Dense from repeating it)
Dandelion Mind- Repeated a number of times (Improved beta has probably made this top end 8B)
Bewilderness- Unrepeated Varian problem
Tomahawk- Unrepeated (link up by Mike Adams)
Voyager Sit- Unrepeated (crazy this not bee repeated)
Stamina Band PUTP- Repeated by CWP (Blurred between boulder/route)
Serendipity- Repeated a couple of times (some thought 8B, but I think a hold has now broken making it harder again??)
East Coker- Unrepeated (CJD link up in Cave)
Pilgrimage- Repeated using an easier sequence, long boulder/route
Traci Lords Sit- Unrepeated (originally graded 8B?)
Little Women RH- Unrepeated (have no idea where this starts)
Kaizen- Repeated (controversy about the repeater)
At the Heart of it all- Repeated (controversy about the repeater)
Star Power- Unrepeated, most recent addition from Varian (notes it could be 8B)
Leviathan- Unrepeated, Malc= hero
Monks life- repeated several times
The Rail- Unrepeated (could be a hard one to get in condition by the sounds of things)
Gut Buster- Unrepeated? (or did Dav Mac repeat it?)
Seven of Nine- Unrepeated- highball adventure at sky pilot
Big Long Now- Unrepeated- (boulder/route)
Natural Method- Unrepeated Dave mac problem
Soul revolution- Unrepeated Duffy problem (Wicklow, Ireland)

8C/V15

Walk away SS- Unrepeated G for the skins
Shadow Play- Unrepeated (Holds broken off? seems highly unlikely it was climbed in its current state)
Il Pirata- Unrepeated hole in the ground
Senerata- Unrepeated (link up by Mike Adams)

Sorry if I have missed any off however might be a useful list for someone.

[Doylo]

Exactly, you wouldn't fly to them.

People at all levels travel and aspire to climb things way worse looking than Walk Away- sadly grades speak louder than quality for a lot of folk. Bar the landing (which is fine with pads) At the Heart of it All is a good problem. Based on seeing some pretty good climbers on it (who've climbed a number of the aforementioned lines), that would get my vote for one of the hardest in the UK.

You've seen the bald liar on it too haven't you  people who fly to do worse problems than they'd do at home are fools.

[Doylo]

Btw I know Walk Away is cool. I'm just trying to distance myself from Cattells , Gaskins fanfare so no one else rings me up asking if he's a liar or not.

[gme]

Is he a liar?

What is the contention over kaizen and at the heart of it all?

[fatneck]

IIRC they were repeated by strong silent Sam from Blackpool ways and given that he's not prone to publicising stuff there's no evidence...

[T_B]

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=49837

This report says Aaron Tonks witnessed the Kaizen repeat?

[dave]

Soul revolution- Unrepeated Duffy problem (Wicklow, Ireland)

<Pedant alert> Ireland isn't in the UK.

[tomtom]

Il Pirata- Unrepeated hole in the ground

This was chalked up on Sunday.. (not heavily..) Though theres about as much ground clearance as if you were trying to crimp your way under a land rover...

[turnipturned]

Is he a liar?

What is the contention over kaizen and at the heart of it all?

Swear there is an old thread on here that talked about it, there are believers and doubters. Sam never actually made it clear what he had repeated and what he had not, so therefore there is a question mark next to them!

Il Pirata- Unrepeated hole in the ground

This was chalked up on Sunday.. (not heavily..) Though theres about as much ground clearance as if you were trying to crimp your way under a land rover...

yeah it always seems to be chalked and so does shadow play, guess they don't really get washed of with rain!

Soul revolution- Unrepeated Duffy problem (Wicklow, Ireland)

<Pedant alert> Ireland isn't in the UK.

Meh...... lets call it UK, it looks good!

[a dense loner]

I know Micky's done little women, presumably to piss Scott off. Although i'm unaware if this is the same as LW rh.
I'm also convinced that stamina band/putp had a repeat before CWP, coming from Smitton or Ryan?
That list also doesn't contain CWP's belly of the beast so prob needs updating. This was given 8B+ with cheating kneepads, no kneepads a la the f.a. would make this a different proposition.

[standard]

[deleted]

[dave]

Exactly, you wouldn't fly to them.

Ha ha. Tell that to the people who fly to Switzerland and spend time working things like the Magic Wood 'classic' footless eliminate problem, Enterprise in Space. I've seen three with my own eyes.

When I googled that I found what may be the world's worst bouldering video.



Dab. 

He absolutely walked that.

[andy popp]

Dave, I'm sure it was you who once said of another dabtastic video "That's just hillwalking with a bad sequence".

[dave]

Sounds like something I would say.

[Fiend]

Sounds like something I would say.

Along with the classic "unspeakably bad beta" which I've stolen many a time.

[turnipturned]

 

I know Micky's done little women, presumably to piss Scott off. Although i'm unaware if this is the same as LW rh.
I'm also convinced that stamina band/putp had a repeat before CWP, coming from Smitton or Ryan?
That list also doesn't contain CWP's belly of the beast so prob needs updating. This was given 8B+ with cheating kneepads, no kneepads a la the f.a. would make this a different proposition.

Dam it, yeah forgot about Belly of the beast. God knows about Little Women RH.

[abarro81]

SB/PUTP - off the top if my head Gaskins, McClure, Smitton, Sharik something or other from Australia, CWP..

Pads won't really be that relevant for belly of the beast since the kneebar is no hands without a pad. To create a hard link that's not eliminate CWP should have used Nacho's low start to keen as it stays away from the bens roof knee.