Good to hear it's not any more complicated than just needing healing time Shark - skin grafts are no fun.Had a bit of a re-jig this week - cancelled my direct debit at the local wall (3 mile round trip), which means from next month I'll have to head to Milton Keynes (50 mile round trip) or drive up to the Peak (200 mile round trip) for an evening's climbing. It'll force me to get on the hangboard at home too and whilst I am often time short, I'm hoping it will help me progress..STG - Salbit Sudgrat.MTG -Climb some lime in Spain.LTG - Salbit West Ridge.Mon - Rest. Battered from the previous week if I'm honest.Tue - See physio. painful session on the left ITB, medial area, calf attachment thingy. Told not to boulder that evening... could hardly walk when I got off the table.Wed - Pinnacle. Knee not the best but tried hard. Usual story of total stopper moves for my wrist and left pretty demotivated.Thu - Hangboard. Not been on a campus rail in ages or hanging and boy, so much weaker.Fri - Big Rock, MK. Really good session, playing on the V4-6 circuit. Sometimes too weak, then a wrong sequence but did much better than I thought I would.Sat - New members meet at Stanage. Big turnout. Led some stuff on made up lines - having a 'I hate guidebooks' day. Cleared off when it rained heavy for ten minutes,Sun - Club meet at High Neb. No psyche after being there last week, so soloed some easy stuff and then took a rope up some Severes for those who are new to outside. Sociable.Injury stuff - physio was surprised I'd been able to climb with my knee but it's feeling much better now. Having to roll the ITBs constantly (ouch ouch ouch) and really need to focus on stretching the hamstrings.Another week of not getting pumped, which is brilliant. My big toes however are proper achey and I guess that's from weighting my feet properly. Probably my last time on grit for a long while as I'll be away next winter but it's been an enjoyable learning curve. Jamming is still a dark art at times but I nailed it today, laybacks feel less powerful and the whole experience on grit feels less strenuous. I'll miss it.Seems a bit crazy cancelling my wall membership when it's so local but I really wanna get better at climbing and I feel that can be better served by driving up or down the M1. Need to work out where the nearest limestone bouldering is to me, that's not total nails and set to one evening a week.
I think you're being a bit harsh webbo. My alma mater is the Iffley Road wall in Oxford, about the same era and I suspect rather inferior to Leeds. It, too, got me from Severe to HVS/E1 in a couple of years. But we're not living in the dark ages any more, we have choices and if K has an option that he thinks is better than his local wall and only twenty miles away, then I don't see how that counts as dodging the issue.
A brilliant job, well done whoever it was
Quote from: nai on April 26, 2015, 09:33:52 pmA brilliant job, well done whoever it wasWhy thank you sir
Sticking to longer routes and aerocap training for awhile in prep for Ceuse in September/Diamond season.