Good to hear it's not any more complicated than just needing healing time Shark - skin grafts are no fun.Had a bit of a re-jig this week - cancelled my direct debit at the local wall (3 mile round trip), which means from next month I'll have to head to Milton Keynes (50 mile round trip) or drive up to the Peak (200 mile round trip) for an evening's climbing. It'll force me to get on the hangboard at home too and whilst I am often time short, I'm hoping it will help me progress..STG - Salbit Sudgrat.MTG -Climb some lime in Spain.LTG - Salbit West Ridge.Mon - Rest. Battered from the previous week if I'm honest.Tue - See physio. painful session on the left ITB, medial area, calf attachment thingy. Told not to boulder that evening... could hardly walk when I got off the table.Wed - Pinnacle. Knee not the best but tried hard. Usual story of total stopper moves for my wrist and left pretty demotivated.Thu - Hangboard. Not been on a campus rail in ages or hanging and boy, so much weaker.Fri - Big Rock, MK. Really good session, playing on the V4-6 circuit. Sometimes too weak, then a wrong sequence but did much better than I thought I would.Sat - New members meet at Stanage. Big turnout. Led some stuff on made up lines - having a 'I hate guidebooks' day. Cleared off when it rained heavy for ten minutes,Sun - Club meet at High Neb. No psyche after being there last week, so soloed some easy stuff and then took a rope up some Severes for those who are new to outside. Sociable.Injury stuff - physio was surprised I'd been able to climb with my knee but it's feeling much better now. Having to roll the ITBs constantly (ouch ouch ouch) and really need to focus on stretching the hamstrings.Another week of not getting pumped, which is brilliant. My big toes however are proper achey and I guess that's from weighting my feet properly. Probably my last time on grit for a long while as I'll be away next winter but it's been an enjoyable learning curve. Jamming is still a dark art at times but I nailed it today, laybacks feel less powerful and the whole experience on grit feels less strenuous. I'll miss it.Seems a bit crazy cancelling my wall membership when it's so local but I really wanna get better at climbing and I feel that can be better served by driving up or down the M1. Need to work out where the nearest limestone bouldering is to me, that's not total nails and set to one evening a week.
I think you're being a bit harsh webbo. My alma mater is the Iffley Road wall in Oxford, about the same era and I suspect rather inferior to Leeds. It, too, got me from Severe to HVS/E1 in a couple of years. But we're not living in the dark ages any more, we have choices and if K has an option that he thinks is better than his local wall and only twenty miles away, then I don't see how that counts as dodging the issue.
A brilliant job, well done whoever it was
Quote from: nai on April 26, 2015, 09:33:52 pmA brilliant job, well done whoever it wasWhy thank you sir
Sticking to longer routes and aerocap training for awhile in prep for Ceuse in September/Diamond season.
Quote from: Luke Owens on April 27, 2015, 12:56:41 pmSticking to longer routes and aerocap training for awhile in prep for Ceuse in September/Diamond season.you don't say if you're in a block program so you may have it planned, but don't neglect strength training ahead of your trip. I imagine you'll need a lot of open-hand pocket-pulling strength to maximise your chances out there. Easy enough to work strength and Aero in the same session.
Looking forward to this film. I hope it's 50 minutes of dashcam driving to the crag followed by nine minutes of time-lapse clouds blowing over the top of the crag, before a minute of interviews set over people falling off VSs.
Good see it had been done and with the clips in such logical positions. Now there's no need to decide between trying to make a strenuous clip mid crux or risking a big lob if you fluff it.
Looking forward to this film.
Careful what you wish for.
>> Pako. Bent arms.
Back to River of Life. Met Dave and Scouse D there avec lamps. Took a while to get the toe hooks to work then managed to link it
Hello all, first post here. Am hoping it will help with some aims for the year.
I still have no self control at conferences with all the free food and booze available... Its frustrating that I can't complete a basic strength and conditioning phase without my body falling apart.
M T Foundry Wave. Level 2 volume session. Hard. Gym for weights and core in the eveningWT Lamping with Lagers at Hampers Hang. Obviously a) I was sandbagged and b) had a great timeF After nearly 2 years without doing my back it went in the morning as I was brushing my teeth. Lots of physio ball and exercises throughout the dayS Back hurt. Couldn't risk climbing outside. Easy beastmaker session in the morning.S Back hurt more. Pilates in the morning when my back felt great afterwards. Some kettlebells in the evening
M: Insanity class at the gym on lunch - tried as my other half has been going to classes at our local leisure centre. Turns out it's really hard!T: HIIT class at the gym on lunch - good fun, lots of different exercises as it was a bit class. Off to London for work in the afternoon, then beers then food then more
Quote from: Dolly on April 27, 2015, 10:09:01 pmM T Foundry Wave. Level 2 volume session. Hard. Gym for weights and core in the eveningWT Lamping with Lagers at Hampers Hang. Obviously a) I was sandbagged and b) had a great timeF After nearly 2 years without doing my back it went in the morning as I was brushing my teeth. Lots of physio ball and exercises throughout the dayS Back hurt. Couldn't risk climbing outside. Easy beastmaker session in the morning.S Back hurt more. Pilates in the morning when my back felt great afterwards. Some kettlebells in the eveningFuck - thats what happened with me! Went to Hampers Hang with Lagers and then my back screwed up... I think theres a class action coming up against Lagerstarfish bouldering services...
LTG: Font 7bM: Insanity class at the gym on lunch - tried as my other half has been going to classes at our local leisure centre. Turns out it's really hard!T: HIIT class at the gym on lunch - good fun, lots of different exercises as it was a bit class. Off to London for work in the afternoon, then beers then food then more beers.W: Meeting in London while feeling a bit hazy, then train back. Ticked Ben Moon's autobiography on the journey.T: Deadlift session on lunch. Gradually worked up to a new 1RM PB of 115kg. Creeping towards the 2xBW.F: Cellar Beastmaker session in eve. More diligent warmup, then managed 5 x 5 x 5 sec hangs.S: Nowt much. S: Woodhouse Scar session. Totally screwed up my tactics, arriving at the hottest part of the day despite a chilly morning and what turned out to be a decently cool evening. Did a few things including the world's easiest 6c which must be a misprint / I went off-route, then tore a flapper just above the palm of my hand. Went to The Sheriff but absolutely nothing doing. Left in a bit of a grump.
Sat: Isatis dodging showers. Repeated the 6C/7A standing start to le Surplomb Statique and then worked the crouch start (Divine Decadence) while a mate worked the standing start. All the moves went, bar the first, which I didn't try because the hold was wet. One to come back to.
T sucessful job interview, ...
Quote from: the_dom on April 27, 2015, 08:24:31 amSat: Isatis dodging showers. Repeated the 6C/7A standing start to le Surplomb Statique and then worked the crouch start (Divine Decadence) while a mate worked the standing start. All the moves went, bar the first, which I didn't try because the hold was wet. One to come back to.Good knowledge on the name for the crouch start. I tried it a few weeks ago but couldn't find the name online. Also where does the 6C/7A grade for the stand come from? It felt about 6B to me with the crouch a lot harder. Both great problems either way.Also about the Bleau's Art fiasco, if someone told me I couldn't try a problem I'd be pretty shocked and pissed off.
Quote from: tommytwotone on April 28, 2015, 08:18:09 amM: Insanity class at the gym on lunch - tried as my other half has been going to classes at our local leisure centre. Turns out it's really hard!T: HIIT class at the gym on lunch - good fun, lots of different exercises as it was a bit class. Off to London for work in the afternoon, then beers then food then more Some aggressive sounding gym session names there!I'm waiting for our local twerk out classes to start....
Quote from: Schnell on April 28, 2015, 11:41:03 amQuote from: the_dom on April 27, 2015, 08:24:31 amSat: Isatis dodging showers. Repeated the 6C/7A standing start to le Surplomb Statique and then worked the crouch start (Divine Decadence) while a mate worked the standing start. All the moves went, bar the first, which I didn't try because the hold was wet. One to come back to.Good knowledge on the name for the crouch start. I tried it a few weeks ago but couldn't find the name online. Also where does the 6C/7A grade for the stand come from? It felt about 6B to me with the crouch a lot harder. Both great problems either way.Also about the Bleau's Art fiasco, if someone told me I couldn't try a problem I'd be pretty shocked and pissed off.I was told by a local that the traditional stand start i.e. on the sloper and pocket, moving to the ball and then up, was 6B (which felt right), and that starting standing 2 moves lower on an edge and sloper was somewhere between 6C and 7A (I think 6Cish but I'm tall). I think this is the same start for Surplomb Gauche. Re: Bleau's Art - agreed. I was quite taken aback, and for some reason the woman trying the problem couldn't seem to understand why I was grumpy as a result.
Re: Bleau's Art - agreed. I was quite taken aback, and for some reason the woman trying the problem couldn't seem to understand why I was grumpy as a result.
Quote from: the_dom on April 28, 2015, 12:33:58 pmRe: Bleau's Art - agreed. I was quite taken aback, and for some reason the woman trying the problem couldn't seem to understand why I was grumpy as a result.Experienced similar at 95.2 recently, German girl working a problem her fella had just done. It was just about in the shade and I was keen to get on it before the sun got on it so asked if I could join in. Seemed his English was better so he agreed and explained I wanted to try it to at which point her face dropped and as soon as I put my shoes on she took hers off. Had a couple of goes but realising I wasn't welcome I wished her luck and left her to it to try something else. I returned just as she was leaving at which point she was very friendly despite having not been successful, her English had improved a lot too and she gave me some beta and wished me luck. Change from a grumpy frau to a very pleasant girl, kind of odd, obviously feeling some sort of pressure or focus that was broken by the presence of somebody else.