[Muenchener]

Did I miss the "no power club this week" memo? Hope not.

STG: go climbing
MTG (2015): 7b redpoint
            Beastmaker 5A routine
            Muscle-Up
            Sautanz
LTG (<= 5 years): Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl West Face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)

M: Wall, Boulderwelt. Longest link yet on the 7b circuit proj - 17 moves - and had a play on a 7b+, on which did all but a couple of moves individually and  a 10 move link. Also ran into a friend I haven't seen for a while, so all in all a pretty good evening.
   Bike to & from work via wall ca 35km
T:
W: Wall, Boulderwelt. Another good session. Another high water mark on the 7b proj (hold 20 of 27) and all moves done on the 7b+.
T:   Bike to work 25km
F: rest
S: Climbing, Pleitewandl. Redpointed a route that I had a couple of goes on last year. "Only" 6c, but I still find 6c pretty challenging, especially as this was a power endurance route where the main challenge was pump management rather than a bouldery crux, and so very much not "my style". A lovely route too: technical sidepulls up a gently overhanging wall of perfect rough grey limestone. Yyfy.
S: Practiced prusiking, hauling & crevasse rescue on the climbing frame in the park with a couple of mates who are going glacier ski touring at Easter.

[the_dom]

Did I miss the "no power club this week" memo? Hope not.

S: Climbing, Pleitewandl. Redpointed a route that I had a couple of goes on last year. "Only" 6c, but I still find 6c pretty challenging, especially as this was a power endurance route where the main challenge was pump management rather than a bouldery crux, and so very much not "my style". A lovely route too: technical sidepulls up a gently overhanging wall of perfect rough grey limestone. Yyfy.

If there was a memo, I didn't get it either. And nice one on the YYFY - everything counts!

Mon: Long, steep trail run
Tues: AM hangboard session: one arm max hangs; PM hangboard - repeaters / encores
Wed: rest - throat feeling sore so trying to prevent full-blown sickness
Thurs: AM hangboard session: one arm max hangs; PM hangboard - encores
Fri: AM treadmill intervals. PM drinking too much.
Sat: Bouldering - ticked a new, crimpy, hard 7A that I've never done and still didn't do a 7C that I should have done. Bother. Not the best session, so comforted myself with some one arm hangs after I got home. Celebratory dinner with fiance in the evening.
Sun: Feeling a little worked, so PM hangboarding - Webb Parsons programme and encores.

All in all, a decent training week, but not a very satisfying one - life seems to be getting in the way and I'm not getting out enough. Luckily I am spending Easter weekend in Rocklands, so hopefully I'll get some mileage in for Font.

[sdm]

2015 Goals:
Bouldering Pyramid:
7B: 0/1
7A+: 0/3
7A: 3/9
6C/6C+: 4/27 - 0/13 slabs/aretes
Sport: Do more sport, get in to redpointing properly

M: Woody Session, core workout on rings.
T: Rest.
W: Working individuals moves on projects, then a good session on the woody. Completed 3 short term projects on the woody, then did some core on rings.
Th: stretching/elbow rehab, decided not to do any fingerboarding or weights to aid elbow recovery.
F: Short session on new V6+ circuit. I think I only completed 1 problem but I was close on many more and a lot of them.
S: Bad weather stopped my plans to climb outdoors so I had to settle for a session at boulders in Cardiff. Did most of the V4-6 circuit, a few V5-7s, a couple of V6+s and some of the comp routes. There were some interesting problems on the slabs and some good board style problems but I couldn't climb anything in the cave as every hold just looked grey in the lighting so I had no idea where any of the problems went  .
S: Moving furniture and driving all day.

[T_B]

86.6Kg 

M - School 2 x 6 x 7 on 4 fingers smallest campus rung with 4+Kg weight belt. Then managed 2 x 5 x 10ish on front 3 with 4+Kg. Then dropped weight to 3Kg and did 1 x 5 x 7 back 3. All a bit of a messy session, but tried hard. Benched 50Kg x 2 x 3, then 60Kg (1 rep).
T - Went to School p.m. and warmed up but left middle finger felt strained from y'day so left.
W -
T - Foundry - lunch. A bit of messing around and testing out my finger. Felt tired and de-motivated.
F -
S - Put F/board back up at home with 20mm deeper screws. DIY etc.
S - School. Warmed up at home then straight into AnCap sess. Only managed 8 of 10 reps, failing on 5 of those. So majorly sh*t having previously managed 8 out of 10 on 9th March Then tried to do sections of 7c+ circuit and got pumped very easily. Left early.

Bit of a rubbish week climbing-wise starting from a silly strain to my finger, I think from twisting laterally through it deadhanging back 3 on too shallow a campus rung. Oh, and too much  Motivation v low. Chin up etc.

[Sasquatch]

STG: Maintain Psych, and drop weight. Either local boulder or route projects depending on weather.
MTG: Bolt new route projects, have a couple of promising walls to recon.  1-4-7 & 1-arm pullup
LTG: To Bolt....

M- Ancap work 8 by 2xroutes at wall. Hard but good session.
T-rest
W- Anpow, Campusing, and ancap work. broken 4x4s for anpow- very good set.   Foot on campusing 8 x 1min on 1.5min off. Shortened rest on foot on campusing from 2 min to 1.5min and was able to finish all 8 sets. Felt really hard, and really good.
T-Rest   
F-Boulder Outside - Nice group session outside at new boulder crag from a couple of weeks ago. repeated a handful of problems up to 7b, then set to work on the last project.  Managed to pull it out to finish off a nice new 7C+. 
S-Rest
S-Route projects - Warmed up in the gym for about 20 minutes, then drove out, did a few boulders near by, then straight to project #1-a 25 foot boulder problem on a rope.  Worked it to remember/learn beta.  Felt really hard, I remember it feeling close a long long time ago, and I found it was hard to be motivated with total shut down.  Second burn was much better, but still couldn't figure out last move crux.  Worked it a third time, and climbed easily to the crux move, but still didn't know what to do.  Pulled through to anchor and saw the hold we should have been going for the whole time.  Chalked and ticked it, and went down and did the move, then felt stupid for not seeing it earlier.  Pulled rope, got on and climbed to and fell at top crux again.  Rested while partner worked crux.  Pulled rope, and fired it next go    FA of a new 8a/+.  Partner also fired it after a few more goes and little bits of beta refinement. 

Moved on to project #2.  Managed to decipher a really good and complicated sequence through to the last two moves, but couldn't figure them out.  Prob 8a to a v10 sequence.  One to come back to and see if we can figure out the crux.  Guessing in the 8c range

Next moved on to project #3, which has/had a flexing key crimp which has now been fixed.  Pieced most of this short 2 bolt boulder/route together as well, although we could only link 2-3 moves at a time out of 12 moves total.  Nails hard crimping up a curved white wall, capped by a 6 foot dyno   Guessing in the 8b-8c range. 

Fantastic week    More please

[nai]

Good work Muench & Sas 

Goals:
Font next week
Spring - HFC & Short Chimes, (proper Zaffs)
Summer - Body Machine & Ext, Cornices?
Autumn - Raindogs, Full Chimes.

M - 10 mins Aero.
      Broken circuit x 4, generally 2 rests/power-outs/fails per set,
      8 x 1:40 Foot on campusing, failing final moves of sets 6,7 & 8.

T - cancelled routes outing, so nowt

W - warmed up at home then went for another look at Zaffs. Worked the top-out until wired. Struggled with the heel release move again so decided to try from the sit and did it first go. Tried the lie-down a bit more and worked out the heel release but skin was getting a bit critical so walked away. 2x10 mins Aero

T - Canceled routes outing. Did an hour bouldering in garage, good fun.

F -  an hour of warming up into hard bouldering;

 broken circuit workout, now only 26 moves but more sustained, PB on final burn reaching move 21;

On the minute session for the first time doing the final 8 moves (really burly undercuts, sidepulls and pinches) of the broken circuit. 2x8, failing on moves 6&7 of reps 7&8 both sets, so intensity about right.

Broken

S&S rest.

Frustrating week with stuff going on for last week of school term, two cancelled outings plus a complete fuck up on Friday thinking I couldn't get out because my car was in the garage while all the time my wife's was sitting on the drive. Had some decent session though.

Was initially please to do Zaffs Sit but as I considered it more I started to think that it was a bit of a compromise.  Unfortunately both starts seem contrived, starting matched in the pocket seems a bit unnecessary and what I did, starting from halfway along the roof at the holds I could reach from sitting, is basically just starting part-way through and a bit of a non-problem. It's most logical to start left in pocket and right on rail as most seem to, I reckon it should be described as such and do away with the two starts. Still taking the tick though, obviously.

[shark]

Thanks Muenchener and well done on the circuit and the 6c

11.4-5

M. Noon. 11.5 Ben bailed. Drove up with Paul and Steve. Met Andy Cave and Gresh there and climbed with them. Cool and cloudy-  perfect almost except slightly glassy. Felt really good warming up on Consenting. Warm up go putting draws in felt good too . Had butterflies. Go 1 starting moves felt a level easier but when I got to big undercut but got distracted when Neil and Paul started shouting to each other and fudged up and touched but not held horn. Couldnt keep a sandwich down and had a discrete chunder. Go 2 held horn but hand slid off it. Went for a walk to top of cove to wrm up. Go 3 touched horn. Go 4 boxed and could go for lurch. Go 5 pulled up to 3 bolt and did lunge to fall off going left then big undercut to top. Felt light and climbed well but pressure is doing my head in. Might revert to doing lunge on my right instep rather than outside edge so Im more solid getting horn.
T.
W. AM. Felt too tired to train previous evening as planned. Fingerboard. Included half-crimp again as neglected it of late. And did the ironing
T.
F.  Noon. Up with Ben and Steve Mac. Met Jee there. Leah Crane (with Charlie Woodburn) also there and trying the Oak. Cold- brilliant on dog - perhaps not so good for redpointing. 2 x F&EE. Dogged up to put draws in on Oak and did throw move three times reverting to old beta (inside edge for right foot and higher wide pinch for right hand) which worked well. First go from ground got cold fingers but managed to do throw. 2nd go sluggish and got hand in right position on horn but too slow to grasp it. Went for a walk to wam up. 3rd go tired and blew out at undercut by third bolt. 4th go tried to do from that undercut to top bit came off traverse back left et again. Final go tried that link again but ended up dogging. Experimented with move back left and remembered old body position (thanks Leah for prompt) No progress. Going off the boil. Leah was impressive on the Oak. Ben was awesome on Rainshadow bulge. Jee was strong on Raining Bats and Dogs. Charlie nearly did Raindogs in a day despite having just driven back from Spain. Steve was Steve. Usually climbing with wads is inspiring. Sometimes it makes me feel shit. Today mainly fell into the latter category.
S.
S. PM Fingerboard but no ironing

Was planning to go up on Tuesday and Friday but apparently conditions were dreadful at the weekend and the top half of the Oak wet so cancelled Tuesday. Feel deflated. Had expected a high point by this stage. Ate and drank normally this weekend and as a consequence back up to 11.7 this morning. Off to Font on Saturday so maybe for the best to have a break from it to keep my psyche intact. Cant decide whether to train hard this week or ease off. Probably ease off. Bit of aerocap and fingerboard.

[nai]

Cant decide whether to train hard this week or ease off. Probably ease off. Bit of aerocap and fingerboard.

Same dilemma I'm having but I've decided the other way, hard but short sessions, M,T & Th, possibly something Fri morning before we travel but should arrive by 2pm so hopeful of doing something Sat eve (but then I always am and it's never happened yet)

[cheque]

STG- Finish film.

MTG- New grades this year.

M- Rest. Realise that my knee is tweaked a bit. 

T- More rest.

W- Black Rocks. First visit for a month or so! There with a drone-owning friend to get aerial footage so very psyched. Sadly (but predictably) litter has built up in my absence so I had to do a lot of running around to tidy up before shots. Filled three black bags easily. Did some soloing for the camera- feels great to be back climbing the classics on the north side which are good to go again. Some knee pain though.

T- Rest.

F- Black Rocks again. A bit of filming then filled another two binbags- doesn't sound much but unlike Wednesday's this was mainly hard-won stuff from gullies/ vegetated areas. Met two lads there who'd had an awesome day ticking off a huge amount of routes- got confirmation that everything I still need to shoot is in condition.  Regretted not taking my shoes but probably for the best as knee is improved but I can still feel it when scrambling about. Rewarded with a beautiful sunset alone at the crag. 

S- Rest. Crap weather puts paid to planned trad weekend.

S- Rest. As above. Early/ wet/ cold start assisting Ms Cheque in running an awful-looking 10k in morning. Assisted her in eating cake to celebrate in afternoon.   

Looks like I tweaked my knee on the Font trip. Pretty sure this is a result of having overtight quads rather than any specific trauma- my girlfriend pointed out that in my new-for-2015-daily-injury-prevention-stretch-routine I don't stretch my quads and on the trip (during which I all but completely stopped said routine) I often felt that they felt worked (does smearing use your quads especially?  ) it's at the top of my left knee so seems to be linked. I'm back stretching now and have added a quad stretch in there. Taking it easy this week seems to have helped it too so hopefully I'll be good to climb on it again soon.

[petejh]

Effort on the bin bag filling.

STG: Melanchollie (in May) or The Brute (in August)
MTG: Onsight attempts on The Hurting, Cathedral, Banana Wall, Anubis (next winter)
LTG: 8c (within three years)
Ultimate goal: undecided

Strength phase, week 3

M. Massage in a.m. / Fingerboard session 5 (of 8 ) in p.m. Seeing good progress
T. TRX workout.
W.Core strengthening & mobility
T. Fingerboard session 6.
F. Core strengthening & mobility
S.
S. Fingerboard session 7, tore flapper mid-way through doing monos but taped and continued. 3 sets x 30 bodyweight squats.


One more fingerboard sesh then into the power phase.

[gme]

Mon- Moonboard but felt tired so FB session. 5 on 10 off 12 hangs on various holds.
Tues- School for 2 hrs. Really good session and close to basic jez. Still cant do the crux move of the 7B i want to do but closer.
Wed. Holland for the day nice 16 hour day.
Thurs- School bouldering. Did basic Jez 7A+ which is a bit of a benchmark for me.
Fri-Rest
Sat- Went to Kyloe in with Ben D but it was wet, should have known better but keen to get out. Climbed for 1/2 hour on the dry bit before giving up and going to climb newcastle. Great few hours bouldering upto 7A ish. Goosed.
Sun- 4 hours in the freezing cold lashing rain at the kids rugby festival, soaked to the skin. Was supposed to train in the afternoon but totally wasted.

Really pleased to do basic Jez as it is a bit of a marker as to how i am climbing (piss weak but getting better) its pretty much the entry into the mid grades at the school but no give away.

However i am a bit disappointed that i didnt climb more as it was supposed to be a hard week. No conditioning work, no yoga and only one FB session (i hate FBing and dont 100%believe in it as well which makes it easy to not bother)
 
Kids rugby and footy season is over in a few weeks so hopefully have more time at weekends. Only 3 weeks left of my bouldering phase before i start looking at getting route fit so would like to get out and tick something in the 7B-B+ range before i head of to Indo surfing for two weeks.

[iain]

STG: Chulilla on Saturday, maybe. Just getting there now would be a success.
MTG: Hasse Brandler in late summer/autumn and resume my Shark-lite Infinite Gravity project addiction.

M: Still recovering from cold but had been gutted to miss a perfect climbing weekend so went for an early evening visit to secret garden. A little part of me hoped I could pull a bit. I could and had fun playing around on Dick Williams but there was no way I was going to do it. Try beachball as well and realise that I need to get my hips around the lip before I can hit the top. I have no idea how to do this.

T: Works for circuits and aerocap. However, whilst doing the circuit I did something to my shoulder. It didn't feel terrible so did a bit more anyway and distracted myself by chatting.

W: Get up and my shoulder's so sore I can barely put a top on. After a bit of googling and chatting to my physio sister I've got a strain of the AC joint ligaments. Advice is to ice, rest and gently mobilise without pain.

T-S: Rest and shoulder tlc. It improves slowly.

S: Try to hang from a bar and can't without pain. Try to simulate belaying and can't without pain. Phone partner for trip and tell them it's possible I won't be able to make it and they should look for a definite partner Predictably everyone my partner knows already has plans so they may be climbing in a 3, at least it's not solo.

As if dealing with 2 colds in the last month or so hampering training wasn't enough now I can't climb at all.
I'm gutted but it's not a definite NNFN yet. If I can get to Friday and hang from a bar then I'll go and take it very, very easy. There's no point going on a climbing holiday if I can't climb though, finger's crossed.

  to Muench and Sas, nice to see folks having a good week

[duncan]

STG - Get over this bloody shoulder tweak. Find out what is up with my hip and do something about it. Lose 2kg. Finish review of ‘Make or Break’.
MTG: tbc
LTG: Long hard (for me) rock routes in the Alps, Dolomites, Picos and Scotland. 7c RP.

M - Shoulder stability exercises.
T - Westway 4 routes 4+-5+
W - Shoulder stability exercises
T - Westway 5 routes 4+ -5+
F -
S - Shoulder stability exercises
S - Westway: 4 routes 4+ - 5+


Back on power club after another 4 weeks off. After bailing on Chulilla I decided to do things properly and had one week complete rest and three weeks assiduously doing my exercises. Easing back into things this week and the only difference I feel is I’m now decidedly weaker. Hip still troublesome and limiting anything other than gentle strolls. GP not covering himself with glory regarding missing investigations or referring me elsewhere.

Another cold, another demanding week at work. Looking forward to a break as I think it has been contributing to all this. Off to Pembroke shortly which I'm really looking forward to, it's been too long. I'm hoping some easy trad. will do it's usual magic.  Family away for the month which I had plotted would coincide with 7a+ onsighting fitness and time to convert this to ledge-shuffling antics. This wont happen now but should still be getting out on real rock regularly, trying to gradually up the mileage.

W: Get up and my shoulder's so sore I can barely put a top on. After a bit of googling and chatting to my physio sister I've got a strain of the AC joint ligaments. Advice is to ice, rest and gently mobilise without pain.

Horribly familiar. Don't go mad too soon is my general advice.

[nai]

(i hate FBing and dont 100%believe in it as well which makes it easy to not bother)

Not touched my FB for over a month since my strength block finished.  Since then I've done 10 bouldering sessions, 3 campus & in the last week or so, some PE.  After a particularly pleasing session this morning when I knocked off a long-term, all-out 2-move problem I decided to do a few hangs as a benchmark.  I'm stronger on every grip, up to 10% extra weight in some cases than at the end of the FB block. Checking back the gains are similar to those made over the course of the FB block so I guess pretty inconclusive other than there's more than one way to skin a cat, just whichever way you choose demand hard work.

[Duma]

One of the things I like about this place is that FB doesn't mean what it does everywhere else. Does make me double take sometimes though...

[shark]

One of the things I like about this place is that FB doesn't mean what it does everywhere else. Does make me double take sometimes though...

Had to look this up - do you mean Facebook or Fuck Buddy

[Duma]

Not sure where you frequent online, but it's def facebook for me!

[shark]

Not sure where you frequent online, but it's def facebook for me!

Google. Its a search engine. Quite useful. Give it a go 

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=FB+means+

[petejh]

(i hate FBing and dont 100%believe in it as well which makes it easy to not bother)

Not touched my FB for over a month since my strength block finished.  Since then I've done 10 bouldering sessions, 3 campus & in the last week or so, some PE.  After a particularly pleasing session this morning when I knocked off a long-term, all-out 2-move problem I decided to do a few hangs as a benchmark.  I'm stronger on every grip, up to 10% extra weight in some cases than at the end of the FB block. Checking back the gains are similar to those made over the course of the FB block so I guess pretty inconclusive other than there's more than one way to skin a cat, just whichever way you choose demand hard work.

Might that be down to - according to some sources - a supposed lag time between strength training/strength gains in tendon tissue?
I'm nearing the end of my strength block, which involved 8 FB sessions and, from what I've read in various places, I don't expect to see any immediate gains attributable to increased tendon strength. Gains in the short-term should be neuromuscular - i.e. higher number of activated of motor units/increased speed of contraction/greater number of motor units.

[gme]

Its not that i don't think dead hanging doesn't work i just think that compared to steep powerful bouldering its not as good. I too have had big gains on my hangs that are definitely from bouldering but having never really focused on dead hanging i cant say that the opposite would have happened. I guess that if you dont believe in something it will never work for you.

There was a big push for isolation exercises in weight lifting years ago (machines)that seems to have now gone to the polar opposite where everything is about compound excersise. Climbing seems to be the same with everything other than dead hangs and i just don't get it.

The popularity of dead hanging seems to really have been pushed by those who have something to gain from it, i.e. product sales, (despite a couple of bits of wood on a beam in the garage would pretty much do the same thing).

I can see why you would use one if you really didnt have access to a decent board or wall but other than that i just dont get it.

[Muenchener]

I can see why you would use one if you really didnt have access to a decent board or wall but other than that i just dont get it.

That's precisely what I use mine for - evenings when I can't / don't want to spend the whole evening away from the family, but can put in a quick forty minutes after my son has gone to bed. And I have had substantial gains from those extra sessions this winter.

[fried]

M - Rest
Tu - BM 2x6 hangs - 45 mins failing on the  10 hang (front 3) finished off on jugs
W- Indoors - Arkose, did all the easy stuff then started getting into some of the harder stuff, no idea on the grades and no point in projecting anything as I don't come here often enough. Felt good, not bad for the fourth day climbing out of five, normally my shoulders are shot by now.

Th- rest
Fr - nothing
S - Weather not good, Indoor, ticked off all the easier stuff and played on some of the harder to see which ones I fancy working.
Su - Cooked brunch for 10, nobody left until the evening, drank all day. Tried a BM session, did 20 mins, but my board/ hand were too greasy, might need a clean, shame as I was feeling good.

[Duma]

drank all day. Tried a BM session, did 20 mins, but my board/ hand were too greasy, might need a clean, shame as I was feeling good.

I generally feel amazingly strong after drinking all day, never seems to translate to climbing though! ;-)

[nik at work]

STG - bolt (and do) extension to last years new sport route (trad plans scuppered bt bird ban currently)
MTG - 8c and age related flim flam
LTG - 9a...
BHAG - Bruderliebe

M - BM session, pretty good session.
T - nothing
W - BM session +20kg, pretty good session.
T - swimming
F - Boulder league at the wall, final round so 30 problems rather than 15. Flash 29 then get the 30th second go. Next best performer got 28 in total. I win, woop woop look at me...
S - Outside, weather not amazing and bird ban crag closure means inspiration is running low. In the end just go to the training traverse (about 7b/+) and do that about 10 times, then go for tea and scone, nom nom.
S - Morning swim in the sea, almost drown the dog so stopped before I wanted to. Had an evening BM session no added weight, again pretty good.

A pretty good week, I've been eating loads this week so am a bit heavy currently. Not a big issue as (1) I don't really have any short term goals so extra weight is training weight and (2) heavy is probably not the right word at 58/9kg... Back is still not 100% but isn't giving me any massive issues beyond a lack of flexibility. And the clocks have gone back so evening sessions are now on the cards, which will provide a change to the usual BM action.

Sass nice one sounds like a good week.

Muenchener also nice one. And nice one starting the thread.

[Dolly]

Im more solid getting horn.

Beavis and Butthead sn**ger


M Kettlebells
T Foundry - another good session. Maybe its working and I'm getting stronger ? Yoga in the evening for the first time in about 20 years. Quite hard isn't it ?
W Core sess at the gym
T Shed. I love training there
F
S Big hard long weights session. Proper busted afterwards - I love that feeling
S Walk on the beach at Filey - ie not much really




Off to Wales on Friday so will be careful and try not to get injured