Blamo have you read Dave Macleods '9 out of 10..'?
...4. Watch a girl do it.
Footwork isn't as good, as a rule.
3 - Learn to assess where your body should start and end moves. If you fall was it because you couldn't get to where you needed to go, or you couldn't stay there once you got there.
1) silent feet drills (climb routes/problems with completely silent feet)2) 3 foot movements per hand movement (more on routes than others) sometimes you have to be inventive to find somewhere to put your foot before you can 'move' again3) Deliberately clipping lead routes across your body, even if it makes it harder (love this one)4) practising ridiculously high steps, rockovers etc.
* If I cannot stay when I get there, I find it sometimes help on hard moves to hold the end-position of the move and then move around a bit, move the hips and shoulders, try various forms of pressure on the feet etc. To better understand how to hold on.
Quote from: TheTwig on February 11, 2015, 01:21:21 am1) silent feet drills (climb routes/problems with completely silent feet)2) 3 foot movements per hand movement (more on routes than others) sometimes you have to be inventive to find somewhere to put your foot before you can 'move' again3) Deliberately clipping lead routes across your body, even if it makes it harder (love this one)4) practising ridiculously high steps, rockovers etc.I'm highly sceptical of things like (2) and (3), since they're technique drills that are teaching you to use poor technique/tactics. Same with (1) to some extent. If I'm trying to ingrain good technique, I don't see using bad technique as being a good way to do it. E.g. with silent feet - this is only good if it teaches you to place your foot quickly and accurately, if you end up placing your feet silently after using the exercise, by placing your feet really slowly, then all you've done is to learn to climb slow and shit
If I had to simplify it down for advanced options, I'd say:1 - Learn to move dynamically: deadpointing, one foot cutting, and two foot cutting. All of these are very different. Learn to deadpoint via hipthrust, shoulder thrust, body whip, etc.
Can't remember where I got them but I do a few drills when I'm doing ARC sessions, and sometimes on the boulder wall. Climbing hard slabs indoors seems to have really paid off in regards to footwork too 1) silent feet drills (climb routes/problems with completely silent feet)2) 3 foot movements per hand movement (more on routes than others) sometimes you have to be inventive to find somewhere to put your foot before you can 'move' again3) Deliberately clipping lead routes across your body, even if it makes it harder (love this one)4) practising ridiculously high steps, rockovers etc.
Can somebody explain how to 'body whip' please?