As an addition, I've never smoked but I know it's bad for you
If you climb outside a lot you don't really have much choice as the problems dont change every time you go out so after a few trips to stanage/burbage/stoney/ the tor you have little option other than to repeat stuff you have done as part of your circuit. Modern walls don't allow this as they change all the problems so every time you go your trying to tick a new set, either flashing each problem or moving on after a few goes, rarely doing the same ones more than a couple of times so not enough to refine techniques and building up engrams. Most used to climb outdoors a lot more than now so we didn't have much choice ( I have problems i must have done 500+ times at Kyloe and Bowden). I think that is why we associate climbing outside as being better for training technique rather than walls where as if you approached climbing at a good well set wall in the same manner the outcome would be the same.
Another reason for doing more outside than in - is that there are often so many different ways to do a problem outdoors (especially with grit/sandstone) whereas at the wall there is normally one or two ways - and thats it.. I think this helps people learn how to use technique in their own context - for their own body/strength/flexibility etc.. rather than for connecting 5 pink blobs...
My post wasn't supposed to be about whether you need a coach or not, that's down to choice and a completely different topic. But having a coach telling you how to do something isnt going to improve your technique its repeated practice of what they tell you that does that. I would put money on it that if you had a coach with you every session you climbed they would have you repeating stuff over and over.And as to your last comment i am sorry but that is just bollocks. You learn technique on easy stuff then progress. If you want to learn how to dead lift do you learn good technique with loads of weight on the bar? No you start with very little weight until you can do it correctly. Learn to play guitar by playing copying Hendrix. No you learn a few chords to start.
Quote from: gme on February 13, 2015, 09:27:04 amMy post wasn't supposed to be about whether you need a coach or not, that's down to choice and a completely different topic. But having a coach telling you how to do something isnt going to improve your technique its repeated practice of what they tell you that does that. I would put money on it that if you had a coach with you every session you climbed they would have you repeating stuff over and over.And as to your last comment i am sorry but that is just bollocks. You learn technique on easy stuff then progress. If you want to learn how to dead lift do you learn good technique with loads of weight on the bar? No you start with very little weight until you can do it correctly. Learn to play guitar by playing copying Hendrix. No you learn a few chords to start. Sorry, I don't think I explained myself well. I wasn't trying to argue against what you were saying. I think I am just really splitting your suggestion into two pieces:1) Find something you can do poorly and repeat it until you can do it well2) When you can't do something, start with an easier version of it and work up to being able to do it
Are we talking about the best ways for a beginner to learn new technique, or someone more advanced with more mileage under their belt.
Sasquatch. Is working problems not just another form of repetition. You don't do the problem once you have done the moves. You repeat the moves over and over to refine how you do them. Exactly what I suggest.
It definitely seems like the approaches to technique for bouldering are different than the approaches to technique for climbing on a rope...
Quote from: Sasquatch on February 13, 2015, 04:49:43 pmAre we talking about the best ways for a beginner to learn new technique, or someone more advanced with more mileage under their belt. This is a good point. What would be your overall approach/suggestion to improving technique for someone in the V8/9 range wanting to break into the V10 range? Is this an area where you need to learn a lot more moves or is it more subtle and you have to camp out on V10?
My post wasn't supposed to be about whether you need a coach or not, that's down to choice and a completely different topic. But having a coach telling you how to do something isnt going to improve your technique its repeated practice of what they tell you that does that.
Let's put it this way, I don't recall falling off of V10s because my technique was poor (though if they had been slabs then this would have been the case), it's always been because I'm weak.
I know people who do the same problems all the time, but never really through themselves at projects enough. They don't really learn the subtleties of technique needed to climb harder stuff. I think there is an optimal medium.
Quote from: cha1n on February 13, 2015, 10:59:03 pmLet's put it this way, I don't recall falling off of V10s because my technique was poor (though if they had been slabs then this would have been the case), it's always been because I'm weak. Have you considered that you may have fallen off them because you're too weak to do them with poor technique?
Quote from: Duma on February 13, 2015, 11:27:07 pmQuote from: cha1n on February 13, 2015, 10:59:03 pmLet's put it this way, I don't recall falling off of V10s because my technique was poor (though if they had been slabs then this would have been the case), it's always been because I'm weak. Have you considered that you may have fallen off them because you're too weak to do them with poor technique?I appreciate that you're messing around Duma but of course I've considered that. The fact is that I'm always the weakest in the group I'm climbing in at my grade range, and usually still the weakest if I'm climbing with people climbing a few grades below me. I like to think that I must be doing something right to be the weakest in the group but still get up stuff (disclaimer: I've been weak AND shit lately).I'm not complaining though, most people at my level are doing some form of strength training whereas I just to go the wall and climb stuff twice a week. I was just saying that surely you couldn't be a solid 7C climber and not have good technique? I'd imagine the *main* way you're going to improve your grade at this level (apart from sieging specific problems) is to get stronger in some capacity?