Quote from: Will Hunt on January 05, 2015, 12:55:48 pmQuote from: HPclinic on June 17, 2014, 06:01:38 pmQuote from: Will Hunt on June 11, 2014, 08:06:22 pmFor perhaps the last winter I've had a bit of a niggling in my left shoulder. Since turning to filthy sport climbing this spring, this has started to flare up and tonight I have had to pass up the wall as I've felt it giving me pangs while sat at work today.Its basically a pain that runs down the rear of my neck (left side) and down into my shoulder blade to a point that feels quite central in my shoulder. This doesn't really hurt while climbing, but after getting on the sport I've certainly noticed it in the days after. Particularly pronounced when I turn my head to the right. After a session at Malham on Sunday it wasn't great. Went for an 'enthusiastic' swim last night (mainly breast stroke) and today its been pretty poor.Any idea what this might be and what I ought to do to make amends? Thanks in advance for any help you can give!Hi it sounds like the problem is coming from your neck more so than the shoulder. The cervical spine will refer pain in to the shoulder, shoulder blade area, arm and even in to the hand and fingers.The fact that breast stroke irritated it probably means that the neck isn't liking excessive or repetitive extension ie looking up. In the daytime take care that you are not slumping when you sit which tends to promote a forward head position. Often climbers become stiff in their mid back regions and this can affect neck and shoulder positions/movements. Basically try to do some stretches for this area and be more aware of your posture.I would recommend you see a physio as you have had this since the winter.RegardsMattAfter studiously not getting round to seeing a physio this has now come to a head. In the past month I've had two "episodes" where I've felt a sudden jolt of pain in the muscle in question (girlfriend tells me its the trapezius) which then makes head movment left, right, up, and down very painful for a number of days. On each occasion this has been set off when drying my hair after getting out of the shower! NSAIDs seemed to help and I've been back climbing on it fairly quickly.Aside from the 'episodes' I also had a lot of trouble whilst on holiday - long stretches driving the camper van causing short-term discomfort.I'm off to see the physio tonight so will report back with their verdict. I suspect it is a posture thing (as suggested elsewhere on this thread) that could well be exacerbated by carrying heavy pads up long walk ins, playing the violin etc.Hopefully will be told I can still climb and train and get some exercises for strenghthening.So, not after advice as such, just wanted to provide follow up for anyone searching for similar ailments.Posture posture posture. Got to get some lumbar support to make me sit up straight and do some exercises.
Quote from: HPclinic on June 17, 2014, 06:01:38 pmQuote from: Will Hunt on June 11, 2014, 08:06:22 pmFor perhaps the last winter I've had a bit of a niggling in my left shoulder. Since turning to filthy sport climbing this spring, this has started to flare up and tonight I have had to pass up the wall as I've felt it giving me pangs while sat at work today.Its basically a pain that runs down the rear of my neck (left side) and down into my shoulder blade to a point that feels quite central in my shoulder. This doesn't really hurt while climbing, but after getting on the sport I've certainly noticed it in the days after. Particularly pronounced when I turn my head to the right. After a session at Malham on Sunday it wasn't great. Went for an 'enthusiastic' swim last night (mainly breast stroke) and today its been pretty poor.Any idea what this might be and what I ought to do to make amends? Thanks in advance for any help you can give!Hi it sounds like the problem is coming from your neck more so than the shoulder. The cervical spine will refer pain in to the shoulder, shoulder blade area, arm and even in to the hand and fingers.The fact that breast stroke irritated it probably means that the neck isn't liking excessive or repetitive extension ie looking up. In the daytime take care that you are not slumping when you sit which tends to promote a forward head position. Often climbers become stiff in their mid back regions and this can affect neck and shoulder positions/movements. Basically try to do some stretches for this area and be more aware of your posture.I would recommend you see a physio as you have had this since the winter.RegardsMattAfter studiously not getting round to seeing a physio this has now come to a head. In the past month I've had two "episodes" where I've felt a sudden jolt of pain in the muscle in question (girlfriend tells me its the trapezius) which then makes head movment left, right, up, and down very painful for a number of days. On each occasion this has been set off when drying my hair after getting out of the shower! NSAIDs seemed to help and I've been back climbing on it fairly quickly.Aside from the 'episodes' I also had a lot of trouble whilst on holiday - long stretches driving the camper van causing short-term discomfort.I'm off to see the physio tonight so will report back with their verdict. I suspect it is a posture thing (as suggested elsewhere on this thread) that could well be exacerbated by carrying heavy pads up long walk ins, playing the violin etc.Hopefully will be told I can still climb and train and get some exercises for strenghthening.So, not after advice as such, just wanted to provide follow up for anyone searching for similar ailments.
Quote from: Will Hunt on June 11, 2014, 08:06:22 pmFor perhaps the last winter I've had a bit of a niggling in my left shoulder. Since turning to filthy sport climbing this spring, this has started to flare up and tonight I have had to pass up the wall as I've felt it giving me pangs while sat at work today.Its basically a pain that runs down the rear of my neck (left side) and down into my shoulder blade to a point that feels quite central in my shoulder. This doesn't really hurt while climbing, but after getting on the sport I've certainly noticed it in the days after. Particularly pronounced when I turn my head to the right. After a session at Malham on Sunday it wasn't great. Went for an 'enthusiastic' swim last night (mainly breast stroke) and today its been pretty poor.Any idea what this might be and what I ought to do to make amends? Thanks in advance for any help you can give!Hi it sounds like the problem is coming from your neck more so than the shoulder. The cervical spine will refer pain in to the shoulder, shoulder blade area, arm and even in to the hand and fingers.The fact that breast stroke irritated it probably means that the neck isn't liking excessive or repetitive extension ie looking up. In the daytime take care that you are not slumping when you sit which tends to promote a forward head position. Often climbers become stiff in their mid back regions and this can affect neck and shoulder positions/movements. Basically try to do some stretches for this area and be more aware of your posture.I would recommend you see a physio as you have had this since the winter.RegardsMatt
For perhaps the last winter I've had a bit of a niggling in my left shoulder. Since turning to filthy sport climbing this spring, this has started to flare up and tonight I have had to pass up the wall as I've felt it giving me pangs while sat at work today.Its basically a pain that runs down the rear of my neck (left side) and down into my shoulder blade to a point that feels quite central in my shoulder. This doesn't really hurt while climbing, but after getting on the sport I've certainly noticed it in the days after. Particularly pronounced when I turn my head to the right. After a session at Malham on Sunday it wasn't great. Went for an 'enthusiastic' swim last night (mainly breast stroke) and today its been pretty poor.Any idea what this might be and what I ought to do to make amends? Thanks in advance for any help you can give!
Don't stretch muscles before you train for strength. Take longer over the warm-up. Do more sub-maximal hanging: from a bar, from the jugs, smaller holds with feet on, smaller holds for a very short duration.As others have said, don't mix fingerboarding with abdominal exercises/leg raises: the focus of the fingerboarding should be on your fingers (and elbow and shoulder positions). You could consider doing the leg-raises hanging from a bar as part of your fingerboard warm-up.
JWI, I have just started to do that program on the exercise ball and the side bridge is ridiculously hard. I just can't get the balance on it. Any tips or ideas?
Thought I'd share the core exercise session that the chap at work's gym helpfuly planned for me. Have done this twice now and it certainly gets the muscles in the core area working. Please feel free to critique this as I'm conscious that some of the exercises will not necessarily be climbing specific. Are there any that could be missed out/extended.Back Squats - 3x15 - have pull up bar on shoudlers with small amount of weight (5kg or so)Press ups - 3x10Leg raises - 3x6Toes to bar (not doing this yet. Waiting to progress up to it)Knee raises - 3x10Plank - 1min x 2Side plank - 30 secs each side x 2Iron Cross - 2/3 x 10 - not on the rings! Lie back on floor, arms out in crucifix position, legs up straight and slowly pendulum them left and right. Basically like a windscreen wiper but easier.Mountain Climber Crossovers - 2x12 - Hold a press up position and try and touch your elbow with your opposite knee.Hollow rocks - max hold x 2 - Basically lie on your back, lift your feet off the floor with straight legs and same with your arms to make a shallow dish shape in cross section.Feet slides - 3x10? - Basically like a squat thrust but with a sheet of paper under your toes so your feet slide along the ground.
Stupid question: when you say maximal I assume you mean making gains in strength and when you say conditioning I guess you mean making gains in stamina/endurance?
I suppose some additional strength is necessary, but I would have thought my primary interest is conditioning. Providing my legs don't suddenly become really heavy then there is only so much effort that is required to get them up and on a high set of holds (I'm thinking gritstone roof climbing here) but conditioning would help keep them in play longer without feeling burnt out in the core. I'm sure having the core strength to pull front levers is fun but is it particularly climbing specific (I suspect that is a laughable question. All the beasts can do em)?
I guess your exercises there are more climbing specific, Sasquatch?