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Best of 2014 (Read 21636 times)

205Chris

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Best of 2014
January 01, 2015, 06:21:27 pm
Time for a look back on the best of 2014, wad or punter, vdiff or E9 it doesn't matter, just list your highlights in the usual categories or make up your own

Top three boulder probs, UK
Top three boulder probs, abroad
Top three trad routes/soloes UK
Top three sport routes UK
Top three routes abroad (any genre)
Top three new route/prob put up
Top Spankings

The previous lists:
Best of 2006
Best of 2007
Best of 2008
Best of 2009
Best of 2010
Best of 2011
Best of 2012
Best of 2013

205Chris

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#1 Re: Best of 2014
January 01, 2015, 07:12:13 pm
An average year for me, picked up a pulley injury at the Foundry in January which meant I didn't get on many of the things I wanted to. Although to look at it more positively it might also have forced me to seek out some other problems I might otherwise not have done.

Top three boulder probs, UK
McNab Sit, Lord's Seat - Just a brilliant problem in a great location. A moors classic.
Powerband, Tor - So on paper it's an eliminate traverse with an arbitrary start and finish point but the history behind it means it's much more than that. And it's a Power of Climbing tick.
The Rib, Burbage South - Tried this on and off over the years, sticking the last move is a real buzz. Then mild panic set in as I topped it out through a load of green slime.

Top three boulder probs, abroad (including Scotland)
Malc's Arete, Torridon - It's Malc's Arete - what more do you want?!
Gargantiot, Font - A brilliant problem with a crux off the smoothest of font slopers.
Futbol, Font - Shoulda, woulda, coulda flashed it but didn't. Sent 2nd go.

Top three trad routes/soloes UK
Disappointing lack of trad this year, in fact I only seem to have highballs on the list:
Isla Grace, Froggatt - Went out to clean it one morning planning to meet my mate / spotter out there. He bailed so I ended up soloing it with a helmet and no spotters. At least it wasn't far to the road if I spazzed myself. Possibly 2nd ascent?
Shy Boy, Chatsworth - Esoteric gem
Sick Arete, Derwent - Walked up after work one evening with Mark20. A great highball which deserves more attention.
Top three sport routes UK
Roof Warrior, Cheedale - Probably a bit soft but who doesn't enjoy yarding across roofs on jugs and knee bar rests?
Taylor Made, Cheedale - Had to be done, a route by my namesake.
That was the River, Cheedale - Should have done it second go but due to an unbelievable amount of redpointing incompetence it took 2 sessions.
Top three routes abroad (any genre)
As I didn't go abroad I'll go with 'outside of the peak'
Illywacker, Giggleswick - Euro tufa climbing comes to yorkshire.
Wargames, Chapel Head Scar - Although the crux is lowdown it maintains interest throughout. Good value.
Trowgbirge Wall, Trow Gill - Probably better than anything at Malham or Kilnsey at the grade.
Top three new route/prob put up
Phoenix Nights, Hillcar Woods
Bigger than a bee, Endcliffe Quarry
Kodos, Filthy Crag Q
Top Spankings
Jerry's Roof, Llanberis Pass - Going down this year

abarro81

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#2 Re: Best of 2014
January 01, 2015, 08:05:23 pm
A slightly disappointing year for me in some ways - my endless collateral ligament issue kept me out of UK sport, and my October trip consisted of me endlessly failing to get anywhere near doing Era Vella. Despite that, there were some ace moments too.

P.S. I love this thread. I just looked back through some previous years, well fun reading the old posts! They bring back some great memories. Makes me regret the years when I've missed the thread or not contributed for some reason.

Top three boulder probs, UK
36 Chambers SS - 2 hours drive, 1 hr hold drying, totally worth it. Loyal to the game.
Dark Reservation - 'cos I burnt Stu off, and it didn't feel too hard.
Don't Think, Feel  - good weekend in the mountains, even if we got lost for ages finding Paul o'Grady afterwards.

Top three boulder probs, abroad
No foreign bouldering this year.

Top three trad routes/solos UK
Rainbow Bridge - Steve, Jordan and I all punted out of the DWS comp so went for a spur of the moment smash down to Berry Head. Hid the car keys in a bush, walked down barefoot, had glorious conditions on rock way better than I'd expected, did the Barrel trav and the extension over to white rhino tea, wandered back to the car as the sun was going down. Brilliant.
End of the Affair - First headpoint since I was about 19. Turned out to be roasting hot so pulled the rope to sack it and come back in colder conditions, thinking it would be reckless to do it. Pottered for a while and the sun started to go down, the rock went cold, and Nate kindly offered to delay going back to work to belay. Steady but exhilarating, really enjoyed it. A reminder that danger can be fun too. Keen for another headpoint or two this winter.
Mint 400 - Not really a solo as we had a load of pads, but a fun day out with a good crew.

Top three sport routes UK
Virtually no UK sport this year  :o Fuckin' stupid injury that rules out serious crimping. On that basis, I'll count the Stamina Boys as a route, so..
Stamina Boys - The very definition of 'one for the locals'. Arbitrary start, arbitrary finish, hard not to dab a tree..but it's a good challenge, and turned out to be much harder to link than I expected. I really do love getting pumped too.
Let's get Fossilised - in by default, but I did actually enjoy it quite a lot. Nice butch climbing, and fun to be on a rope for once this year!

Top three routes abroad (any genre)
Maskoking - bitches. Fought hard, got lucky. Great day in a big poo-filled cave getting boxed out of my mind and psyched out of my face.
Kings of Metal - Final day of a damn good 2.5week trip to Figols, Tres Ponts and Rodellar. Perfect weather, climbing well, good company, nice and quiet at the crags, Bonobo essential mix and Kolsch for the soundtrack. Stamina climbing on good holds up the middle of a freaking amazing wall. Always just in control but never too in control, just how I like my onsights.
Hard Crit - Having spent nearly 3 weeks failing on Era Vella, it was nice to know I wasn't just totally shit. Is there anything better than staming your way up a big onsight??

Top three new route/prob put up
Still a parasitic leach

Top Spankings
Era Vella - trained all summer for it, got beaten up by it. Turns out it's harder than I thought it would be! Stamina at another level. Hopefully this wont be in the same category again in 12 months time!
Louis Armstrong - found a nice lanky method, thought it was a goer, drove to Wales lots, didn't do it. Fuckety fuck fuck. At least it buys me some time before DC firebombs my house or something.

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#3 Re: Best of 2014
January 01, 2015, 08:30:36 pm
Top three boulder prob, UK

Only did about 5 problems all year... None really warrant mention.

Top three trad routes/soloes UK

Just Another Day/Scorch the Earth - Pembroke. I just love climbing in the leap, and this was fantastic.
Ocean Boulevard - Swanage. a good early season day out.
Mizen Star - Fairhead. 4 days in Ireland, 3 days of rain. This was great, perfect hand crack on first pitch, nice boldish wall climbing up top.

Top three sport routes UK

House Burning Down - Cheddar. Quality climbing.
Still Waters Run Deep - Cheddar. Fantastic wall climbing.
Troll Team Special - Portland.

Top three routes abroad (any genre)

Fiesta de los Biceps - Riglos. Maybe the most fun i’ve ever had on a rope!
Sayonara Baby - Rodellar. Best route of the best trip i've had, such a satisfying tick. Victory whip and elevator down, of course.
Arnalada - Collegats. Love climbing on tufa's.

Top Spanking's

Chulilla - Brean. Came home from Rodellar thinking i was a beast, and then realised plodding up jugs for 40 meters does nothing to prepare you for UK sport.
Tennessee - Portland. Tidal, conditionsy routes never make the best projects...
Darkness at Noon. 4.5 hrs. Tide up to my waist belaying first pitch. Impromptu hanging belays. Grease. Factor two(ish) falls (not taken by me...). Totally fried my brain this one!

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#4 Re: Best of 2014
January 01, 2015, 08:39:13 pm
I had a top time in 2014. Trip to Spain, Swedish trad, lots of tick in North Wales and ate into some of the harder stuff I'd wanted to do for years.

Top three boulder probs,
I didn't boulder a lot this year. And when I did I wasn't very successful. I redid Conan the Librarian this week, which was good.
Finally went back to do Nicotein Stain - about 10 years on from last trying it.

Top three trad routes/soloes UK
Resurrection at the Cromlech was a big one for me. Spent an unnecessarily long time on it as I kept expecting it to be hard, but I found it quite steady.
A weekend in Pembroke saw a few good ticks, Bloody Sunday had been on the list for ages (and despite my mate's suggestion was not a good warm up, esp with the tide in and morning grease). I think The Minotaur takes the prize though, as although it's soft for E5, and I had a lot of beta from belaying my mate on it before my ascent, it was a big moment to feel that Pembroke E5 is in reach.
Yukan II - Headpoint at Nesscliffe. Saw a pic of this years ago and thought I'd have to try it sometime. Went down in June and did the moves, went back in August with more sport fitness and did it easily on a toprope, then more hesitantly on lead! Nearly peeled off the crux, but regained focus and powered through. A good fight.

Top three sport routes UK
Obsession at Malham, great to finish it.
Cosmopolitan on the Cornice, felt really hard and had a really wobbly ascent, but had it wired for when I did Cordless Madness.
Countdown - tried a few years ago and only failed due to belayer pulling the rope tight on the crux. Thought I'd piss it now, but took ages to work out the move!

Top three routes abroad (any genre)
Granite Bitten - E3 fingercrack in Sweden. Fantastic rock.
Zeppelin, El Chorro. A grand day out, and surprised us both by being quite hard and a little scary.
Placuneo sin fronteras - A 7b at the Arab Steps that I'd always fancied. Old school crimping with big runouts on a vertical face. Beautifully thin in places.

Top three new route/prob put up
We did 3 new routes in Sweden when we stumbled up a big crag while looking for something else. A good experience. One HVS which was a little loose but would get stars on Peak Lime at least and on the opposite face we did a diagonal E2 crack and a steeper one more like E4, but we also fell off both as they needed more cleaning!

Top Spankings
Body Machine. Got really close. Ate a lot of salad and did a lot of 4x4s, got even closer, then got ill.
Abbing into Wen Zawn to do Dream on the promise of being able to walk across the zawn at low tide. Tide wasn't low enough and by the time other parties had come down, reascended our ropes, and we'd decided the tide was coming back in we'd wasted nearly 5 hours down there! We went home.
Cream - Led the top pitch, placed an unnecessary wire in a strenuous position a pumped out despite getting to the jugs!

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#5 Re: Best of 2014
January 01, 2015, 09:07:06 pm
Since getting a job and moving away from Sheffield, my climbing has been in terminal decline over the past few years. Other than occasionally having a look on UKB to see what's been going on, I don't think I've posted for years.

Rather than fill in all the categories, as I don't think I've done enough to fill each of them, I'll just stick in a few highlights.

1. Despite being generally a bit unmotivated for the past few years, putting the effort into getting to a wall regularly and finally having some sessions where I felt like I was actually making progress in getting stronger again.

2. Surprising myself every time I've been outside this year by getting up stuff I thought I wouldn't; be that flashing sport routes or bouldering. This comes with the realisation that I might have been overstrong and underachieving in the past, plus I've retained enought technique/knack/knowledge to make up for a lack of strength.

3. Rediscovering that climbing is fucking awesome because of the people you meet. Going to random crags and bumping into people you know, having a good laugh, making progress on routes/problems and generally having a good time every time I get out.

Definitely need to make an effort to get out more this year!

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#6 Re: Best of 2014
January 01, 2015, 09:56:12 pm
Best routes for me this year were Rainbow Bridge at Berry Head and America at Carn Gowla.

Rainbow Bridge was a beautiful day out with friends, with a party atmosphere with loads of people DWS-ing.

America was a more lonely experience, but brilliant.

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#7 Re: Best of 2014
January 01, 2015, 10:18:42 pm
I haven't posted in this thread since my last decent climbing year in 2011. As barrows said though, it's good to look back on what's been done in previous years, so I'm contributing again this year. Especially as this has probably been my best year of climbing so far.

Top three boulder problems UK,
West Side Story. It has to be in here. That problem is a sheer utter joy to climb. For me, catching the jug was so unexpected. Classic.
Sloping Beauty. A great trip up to Yorkshire on May bank holiday included this great problem. I went right hand over the top for the glory jug which - if you've seen the landing - is one of the most audacious moves I've ever done. Brilliant.
The Joker. Now I didn't think I'd put this in the list, especially given the sheer quantity and quality of problems I've sent this year. But it meant a lot. I was already celebrating at the peak of the horizontal swing. What a buzz.

Top three boulder problems EU
Tristesse. My first of the big four. Hunted out the early morning conditions in a warm spell in October. Sitting on this boulder after topping it out was a great feeling. A truly world class boulder.
L'arrache Coeur. This scared the crap out of me. So doable but the worryingly high knee bar (with a make shift knee pad out of my sock rolled up in my trousers). One of the best thank god finishing holds. A climb I'd thought about doing ever since seeing it on my first trip to font.
Rubis sur l'ongle. Yet another amazing line. Stylish and hard. Another boulder that would be classic anywhere. Glad to get it finished relatively quick after plunging off it at least 50 times on the previous trip.

Top three trad routes/solos UK
I only did one during a injury rehab period. The Sloth. Mega classic and still managed to scare the crap out of me when trying to place gear in the big roof. Didn't know why I was making so much fuss when I pulled round the roof on some of the biggest holds known to man.

Top three sport routes
Nothing to write home about this year. 2 short trips to Spain and a day trip to Brean.

 
Top Spankings
Low Rider. It kicked my arse. It was one of the most miserable days ever in blizzard conditions. I could barely feel my toes at any point that day. Next year if I can bare the walk in again.
The Storm. Again. So many excuses, it was damp, the topout had ice on it, it was too cold, it was too warm, the holds were greasy, it was too windy, it's too reachy. At the end if the day, I was too shit to climb it again.
La conexión pelirroja. Got past the crux 3 times. Including on my second attempt. My ridiculously poor endurance meant I fell off every time. This killed me for the entire trip. 2 days I spent flailing around destroying my hands on it when it really should have gone down second go. Balls.
« Last Edit: January 01, 2015, 10:40:05 pm by jimmykay »

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#8 Re: Best of 2014
January 01, 2015, 10:28:23 pm
Funny year, grit season was shockingly wet, but made up for it with spring and summer climbing in the Lakes, Wales and Cornwall

Top three Six boulder probs, UK
As I didn't go abroad this year I think I deserve 6!
Jason's Roof, Crookrise: Had to patiently wait until March for it to be dry and in condition, was really happy to get it finished off quickly last season. Gritstone heels and beef at its best

Horror Arete, Bridestones: A total classic that I forgot about due to avoiding the venue because of the deteriorating condition of a lot of the rock. Felt pretty exciting even with a big stack of pads.

Carnage, Hartland: Had wanted to try this ever since seeing Stu's photo of Ru on it many years ago http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=17041 it didn't disappoint, great climbing on bullet hard rock in a beautiful setting.

Cosmic Wheels, N Wales: One session 2013, one session 2014, was happy to get this done relatively quick so I didn't have to walk up the hill again! Nice to top out on such a big boulder, wouldn't be out of place in the Buttermilks!

Worldline, Queens Crag: Managed to shuffle my hands and feet in the correct order first go on this one. Wish there were more at Queens of this quality in between this and Queen Kong or Red Dragon! Great rock, amazing outlook from the crag.

Picnic Direct and a few others, Bowderstone: I love the Bowderstone, I never get bored of climbing there, I do get bored of being told 'it's easier to walk up the ladder'.


Top three trad routes/soloes UK
Seconded some routes at Almscliff, that was it for trad or sport!


Top Spankings
Grand Opera, Bowderstone: Still holding out on me, I think I'm a bit scared at the top!
The Flakes, Earl: Another million sessions with no success, I suck at rock climbing :(

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#9 Re: Best of 2014
January 01, 2015, 10:39:21 pm
Top three boulder probs, UK

1. Diesel Power - about time!
2. Grey house - great deceptively tricky 2 mover in a nice setting.
3. Chopsaw - fantastic leg flick move to a boss sloper.

Top three boulder probs, abroad Didn't get abroad for the first time since 2007. Going to count Anglesey and England as abroad as I only climbed 1 day outside N Wales!

1. La grande Fissure (Fontainefawr) - great find and sounds foreign, so I'm claiming it ;)
2. Not your problem (fedr Fawr) - good burly slap
3. Zippys traverse (plantation) - my only boulder attempted outside Wales in 2014

Top three trad routes/soloes UK spent 1 day at Stainage in summer...

1. Tower Face Direct - really enjoyable and felt committing for a fairy like me. May get brave enough to try an E3 in 2015  :ohmy:
2. Agony Crack - short and fun
3. The Asp (2nd) - fun moves, quite easy on a top rope!

Top three sport routes UK 1 day at penmaen head

1. Flowstone Shuffle - really immaculate rock, great tufa features and I got a good pump on!
2. Flaschenburste Crack - nice jug climbing
3. Helyg crack - only other one I can remember doing

Top three old nemesis done:

1. Wavelength - The most desperate v8 finally conquered
2. Diesel Power - finally clung on to the finish
3. Don't think, feel - didn't think I'd ever climb this

Top Spankings

1. Louis again
2. Corridors of Power - everyone else pissed it, I kept punting and losing fingertips!
3. Malteser-last rites - thought it would go fast but kept dropping move up to crimp, need to try in winter :)


Will Hunt

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#10 Re: Best of 2014
January 01, 2015, 10:43:44 pm
Top three six boulder probs, UK

Pistol Whip - Sometimes the door opens and you can walk through. A lovely feeling.
Undermined by Rabbits - A great day at Hawk Stones making up problems for the new guide.
Rudolph/Millstone Grip - Tried this many times. First go and quite steady on a day that wasn't a greasefest!
Bird Flu - Just gorgeous. Such sublime movement. Can't sing its praises enough. And in such excellent company too.
Trust - Gorgeous friction climbing
Fluide - Thought it would take a while but got it pretty quickly. It feels great to be doing 'the move' and watching the top get closer and closer and realising that you're going to nail it. A fantastic feeling.

Top three boulder probs, abroad

Pottered around for a morning at Castle Hill but nothing to write home about.

Top three seven trad routes/soloes UK

Eavestone Wall - Wanted to do for ages and thought it would need brushing. Clean as a whistle and a fantastic problem to solve. Latching the crack is unbeatable.
Crazy Paver - As with Eavestone Wall, wanted to do it for ages! I looooove Eavestone. Makes all other grit crags (bar the Roaches) seem like such insipid specimens.
Comet Wall - Such a surprise to find this clean. Feels like a big route, even though its very soft at its grade. Steep, exposed, awesome.
Equus - A long and lonely lead which I didn't think I'd have the minerals to try (classic underachieving). I think I'm getting a lot better at seizing opportunity when it presents itself.
Kipling Groove - Long awaited and I'm really glad I didn't do this earlier when HVS was my grade. It felt fantastic to hang around mid-crux and drink in the situation and history - following in the footsteps of The Great Man.
Psycho - Solo/boulder problem/whatever. Full on mindfulness achieved. Dreamlike. The holy grail of climbing.
Track of the Cat - As for the above. Utter calm. Udging and popping for the top feels like waking up from a deep sleep.

Top three sport routes UK

Cold Turkey - Flash, first 7b. Classic underachievment. Really enjoyed it, not knowing whether it was in the bag till the top.
Barguest and Barguest Direct - On the whole, Troller's knocks the shit out of Malham any day in my book.
Angel Dust - Brilliant line. Feels a bit out there.

Top three routes abroad (any genre)

Lluvia de Asteroides - Just incredible. Moving through some crazy terrain at the grade.
Arabesque - Restoration of faith in my abilities.
Yogur de Coco - As for Arabesque

Top three new route/prob put up

I've done absolutely stacks this year. Most of which isn't recorded yet. However there are three stand out climbs that I feel really lucky to have done the FA of. They're all really good. For goodness sake go and repeat them!

Northern Rail




Spirit of Kinder

Absolutely delighted to do this. Fantastic piece of rock and a great line.




Prime Suspect




Top Spankings

Bachelor's Left Hand - How can flash pump be so bad on an HVS.
Wasted Youth - Malham lower-off runouts. Grumble grumble.

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#11 Re: Best of 2014
January 01, 2015, 11:09:44 pm
Top three boulder probs, UK

Crimpy Roof- Not sure but think this may have been my first proper 7b...awesome how a small change in footwork can make the most powerful moves feel easy

Trust- Awesome problem, soft for 7b mind.

Phoenix Wall- first 7b+, what a cracker.


Top three trad routes/soloes UK

Poetry Pink- First e5 onsight. Yeah boi! Nothing compares to that feeling of running it out, teetering across the rainbow. Can't wait to do more slate/e5s.

Desperation Crack- The best and hardest HVS i've ever done, felt like learning to climb again. Can't wait to do shit loads more offwidth cracks.

The Strangler- Think this was my first e4 onsight, and what a beauty. Slapping for the break felt amazing, was completely in the zone.

Top three sport routes UK

Didn't do much sport but looking forward to doing more this summer, would be good to get a few 7Cs done.

Yosemite Wall- First onsight of the grade, definitely my favourite. Made me realise how rewarding climbing long routes can be.

Hoodoo Guru

Smooth Torquer

Top Spankings

All 3 visits to Earl Crag, this place is utter nails. Looking forward to going back and finishing off at least some of what I started.

Silly Arete at Tremadog- need to start doing routes that are longer than the 10m gritstone routes i'm used to, can't deal with exposure at all!


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#12 Re: Best of 2014
January 01, 2015, 11:46:42 pm
I meant well this year, but got sacked back into the search for new stuff...

Top three boulder probs, UK
You know when you can't actually remember what you've done the last year, I must have done some repeats.. So I'll hazard:
Dog shooter- sheep pen
Central wall - braichmelyn
A V4 on the barrel.

Top three trad routes/soloes UK
The smile - lower sharpnose
Non metallic silver - irismans walls
Cormarants traverse low - Clogwyn y Fulfran

Top four new route/prob put up
Twll love E5 - Twll Mawr
The wall of something dead F6A+! - Porth Howel
Erodeo F6B -Marchlyn mawr reservoir boulder
The Filling F6C - James' boulder, Cwm y glo


Top Spankings
the groove- wavelength
Edge problem - Cromllech
Projects at trefor, cwmffynnon, Cwm y glo, Dyffryn mymbyr and many other esoteric backwaters never to grace a guide..
 :2thumbsup:

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#13 Re: Best of 2014
January 02, 2015, 01:58:58 am
Top four boulder probs
Nappy Nuggets Traverse V7 - Lot 33, Nowra. Not a great problem but it was my first of the grade.
Smoothie V6 - Red Rocks, Canberra. Water polished rhyolite... Suited me really well, did it 4th go. Very fun problem.
Wish You Were Here V5 - Jannali Reserve, Sutherland. Very cool 3d climbing, nice and shouldery with a tough top out that came off of on the first 2 attempts... Should of flashed it...
Black Heart V3 - Flat Rock, Nowra. Great line at a crag that I found. Really fun moves.

Top three new probs put up
Crab Nebula V4 - White Whale, Jervis Bay.
The House That Jack Built V4 - Flat Rock, Nowra
60s Spiderman V3 - Lot 33, Nowra. Great little climb that I'd cleaned up in 2013 but never tried. Nice balancey vertical climbing to a dyno finish.

Top Spanking.
DWS project... Still...

nik at work

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#14 Re: Best of 2014
January 02, 2015, 09:07:51 am
Top three boulder probs, UK
Don't think I did any, certainly nothing of note springs to mind.

Top three boulder probs, abroad
Went to Font, can't remember climbing anything in particular.

Top three trad routes/soloes UK
You Said Moist(E8 7a), Isle of Man. Not a huge line or anything but very hard, very steep and given the landing pretty bold despite the small stature. Still not a classic route or anything, but pleased to get it...
The Subtle Knife(E7 6c), Isle of Man. Thin arete climbing that you actually face climb.
Sleeping Sickness(E2 5c), Trowbarrow. I just enjoyed this one.

Top three sport routes UK
The Riddler (7c), Isle of Man. Steeper than expected start then tech headwall.
Gotham (8a), Isle of Man. More steepness, steady 7b-ish start to a rest then the big roof is a bit powerful and a final tenuous arete, yum num.
Errrr

Top three routes abroad (any genre)
Sikau Tot (7c), Margalef. The most arbitrary route ever but silly fun.
Miguel El Casero (7c+), Margalef. Good bouldery schnizzle.
Errrr

Top three new route/prob put up
Mostly repeating myself here but...
You Said Moist (E8 7a), Isle of Man
The Subtle Knife (E7 6c), Isle of Man
Gotham(8a), Isle of Man

Top Spankings
Time, despite pretty decent weather this year I barely got out climbing due to work, kids, diy, life. Hopefully better balanced for 2015...
The weather, just as temps dropped and the years uber trad project came together the rain started and seepage appeared and never dried back...
Margalef, not really a spanking as I actually got on with the climbing really well but a weeks trip with just 2 ticks is hardly earth shattering. Although despite the spanky nature of the trip it was what I was expecting as I was making a BIG step up in terms of grade and it went pretty well in a non ticking way so actually a massively positive spanking.

kelvin

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#15 Re: Best of 2014
January 02, 2015, 10:57:28 am
Top Spankings

The rain in Swizzy this summer. Totally nailed any plans I had and I came back dispirited, weaker and two weeks early.

Honourable mention goes to Brown and Whillans routes however - defeated by the lot of them apart from 3 Pebble Slab. Barbarian, Maupassant... dear god, I'm just not that strong and my technique is shit.

There was also a night at Torture Garden back in February...

Top Boulder

I'd been rather excited to have ticked 6A in Font itself, proper buzzing like but then I checked Bluea.info and it turns out I'd managed 6A+ a few hours earlier in two goes. Straight up the slab to take the banana. Looks rubbish but wasn't polished to hell with pof or the feet of a million boulderers.





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#16 Re: Best of 2014
January 02, 2015, 11:07:49 am
Top three boulder probs, UK, England, Peak

Odd year, only climbed in Peak, Scotland & Font.

Diamond White Left Hand - a nemesis, could have ended up in Spankings, probably been up there 6-8 times over 3 years to try this. Did the crux a few times and failed to top it out, after a slight sequence change it came down to find a spotter, man up or give up. Nice to topout to a herd of grazing deer glowing in the sunshine.
Pogles Wood (stand) swinging around on blobs & slopers - what's not to like?
Kudos special mention for this repeated so many times in pursuit of Hot Fun, now done this one problem more times than every other problem >7B I've ever done, good job I like the heel-hand match on it. No cigar on HFC though.

Top three boulder probs, Scotland
Poor Font trip following injury, only Le Jeu du Toit would qualify so....

Big Lebowski - Ruthven. Last day of holiday and a second consecutive 5am start from Aviemore, knowing I'm unlikely to ever be back. Long pumpy problem, I start tweeting to kill time between attempts but not expecting anyone to be listening at that time. But tomtom starts replying from Australia and his encouragement from 10,000 miles away sees me over the line.



Thirlstane - Jihad & Bad Seed, visited about 10 years ago and said I'd never return. Ended up staying 2 miles away so went for a look and glad I did, some quality problems despite the generally smeggy nick.  Wasn't strong enough to campuss Bad Seed but found a cool heel/hand match and they're always good.

Top two trad routes/soloes UK
Insanity, Curbar - months of circuits on a steep board but it turns out trad cracks are the best way of getting absolutely pumped stupid.
Left Unconquerable, done it previously so not for the climbing, but while belaying a young Kestrel/Falcon/Harrier landed on a ledge a few metres away and sat, seemingly puzzled, watching flying ants for a while, and I watched it rather than my leader.

Top four sport routes UK
Indecent Exposure - Would have been impossible any other year but now I can recover at shake outs and the value of hours of boring Aerocap training becomes apparent.
Sturgeon - should have done it 2nd go 4 years ago then couldn't touch it on the few occasions I returned over the years. Fairly steady and fuss free in the end.
Armistice Day - a former nemesis that I never used to be able to rest on and found desperate but turns out to be ok with the right tool set.
Old Man River great technical sequence that feels grades harder until you work it out and all becomes apparent.

Top Spankings
anything over 7a and 7C.
The heat
« Last Edit: January 02, 2015, 11:16:12 am by nai »

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#17 Re: Best of 2014
January 02, 2015, 12:30:35 pm
YES!! 

Sat at home recovering from having my hip replaced so this thread is just what the psyche doctor ordered!!

My knackered hip really kicked in this year and started to cause me some issues, which was really hard at first as I was still trying to push my level, which was a bit like ice skating uphill. As soon as I chilled out and dropped my grade slightly in June-ish, I was really enjoying climbing again and got some great stuff done!!

Top 3 Boulder Problems UK
T Crack, 7b, Cratcliffe Even though it was my right hip that was f**ked, it really affected my strength and flexibility on my left side too, meaning that on this problem, I had to do the campus move, then do a comedy 3 swings of my whole body ("a one, and a two, and a three and a kick) to get the left heel on. Topped out laughing my head off at the general shambles of the situation!

Electrical Storm, 7b, Burbage Always wanted to do this one, pretty tough I though. Broke out the "last go psyche" and burnt off 2 8a+ boulderers, which is always nice. Still got it!

Northern Soul, 7a+, Hepburn The highlight of a high commitment Northumberland trip with Andi T and Eddies. Weather forecast was shambles but the commitment paid off. "If you don't go you won't know!"

Top 3 Boulder Problems Abroad
Managed another big tick this year by visiting Ibiza for the first time (and got served a drink in "Space" by Richie Hawtin, RESULT!)
Did a bit of research and exploring and discovered a place called "Sa Punta", basically bouldering above the sea, with a bar/ restaurant on the crag. Did the following stuff there (details on UKC if anyone's interested):
Sa Punter, 6c
Exit, 6b
Summertime, 7b+ This was actually a long traverse with some really hard, thuggy moves. Did all that to the jugs at the end, then a hold snapped and I went headfirst into the soup screaming/ laughing!

Top 3 Trad Routes UK
Gathering Sun, E7 6c, Nesscliffe So good, was pleased how steady this felt, I think kalymnos trip fitness helped, thought hip issues were gonna thwart me on the top move but it worked out OK!

The Night Prowler, E6 6a, Hen Cloud OOOOOoosh! Very pleased and proud to get the 2nd ascent of this, as much to honour the first ascentionist, the (in)famous Mark Sharratt than anything else. Absolutely stunning route and line, and by far the boldest route I've done, it could even be E7 6a!! If you dropped the last reachy bit you'd fall the entire length of Hen Cloud at it's biggest point, all the way onto the deck! This route might as well BE Mark, in the way that some dogs are like their owners. Amazing!

The Beast of Bauston, E6 6b, Bauston Tor Got a bit locked on to doing some esoteria, so had a couple of drives to check this out. It was always too warm for the top crimps, even on the actual ascent, which made it nice and memorable. it's even got an all out dyno lower down. Well good!

Top 3 Sport Routes UK
Wild in Me, 7c+, Raven Tor As usual, gotta have a Tor route in there (you either get it, or you don't). This is definitely not the best route of the crag, but I chose it after getting back from jug hauling in Kalymnos to work a weakness, literally, as I couldn't crimp. Wild in Me defo does that, youch!!

Let the Tripe Increase, 7c, Moat Buttress, Had never climbed at Moat Buttress before, great crag! Had to try surprisingly hard on this, good power endurance exercise and a seriously ratty crimp. Youch again!!

Taylor Made, 7c, Cornice After putting a lot of effort into getting this clean, being shut down with wet crux holds, and using the completely wrong sequence, it was nice to smash this one in. Yarding through and across the top roof is amazing!!

Top 3 Sport Routes Abroad

Joggel and Toggel Extension, 7b+, Panorama Flippin 'eck! There's nothing like a tough, reach boulder problem after 36 metres of pumpy tufas! the routes 40m long, and I nearly dropped it at 39 metres. Psyched that I hung on for the insight!!

Marmornie, 7c+/8a, Irox Awesome day out involving a boat trip, swimming, and a great crew. Team send psyche, although thought I was gonna get left out at one point, managed to pull it together and smash through!

Mr Souvlaki, 7c, Arhi This was a classic example of turning up to a crag in Kalymnos, not very psyched about how busy it was, so rather than sit around moaning and unpsyched, grab the guidebook and walk somewhere quiet. Sure enough after a 15minute walk, there's an amazing quiet crag with 4 star routes on it!

New Routes Put Up

Ivi Ole, 7c, Grand Grotta Still not sure if this one's mine or not, but I hope so! Spoke to the relevant people and it seems that it hadn't been done so time will tell. Great new route either way, an all out dyno "Loskot and two smoking barrels" style, from raven for crimps, to a huge bucket. Fun squared!

Also cleaned and climbed a load of routes from 7a-7c in the new area for the "Legends Competition" at The North Face festival, as ace to see some of my heroes like Yuji on them later that week!

Top Spankings

Bim Bam Boum, 8a+, Saint Photis definitely not a Kalymnos jug fest. painful and hard as sin, still awesome though. Was cool to see Gaz Puffin Parry smash it in with no less than 6 power screams at the end of a big day!


Well, that's it, sorry for the ranting, but great to relive the memories!

Keep 'em coming, I love this thread so much, always read it from start to finish As usual, don't be shy and big up yourselves.

Right, I'm off to hobble down to the Works on my crutches and do some pull-ups. COME ON YES!

here's to a streng 2015! Cheers

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#18 Re: Best of 2014
January 02, 2015, 12:44:57 pm
Always an amazing thread and one that gets me planning/ daydreaming for the year ahead.

Top three boulder prob, UK

Art of Japan, Curbar is the only one that I'd really call "top" (only started bouldering again very late in the year)- great position, cool moves, all very satisfying. Took me all afternoon, too, which made it feel like more of an achievement!

Top three zero boulder probs/ routes, abroad

I only went abroad with my girlfriend this year. I'm not going to count heaving up some chalked jugs under a bridge in Seville!

Top three five trad routes/soloes UK

The Arrow, St Govans Climbed this as the sun set on one of the best days climbing I've ever had- blissful belay at the top looking out to sea, totally knackered. One of the many Pembroke classics I'd not done despite going down every summer. Placed 17 runners! ;D

Billiard Buttress, Stanage I've long had this or Pot Black in mind as cool routes to do but they always seem to be occupied when I'm there. On a deserted June evening soloing I "had a look" at the bottom, found myself on the ledge, took a deep breath and smeared to the top. Once there I had a special moment, looking across the crag at every buttress in turn, with a memory from each drifting into my mind. Then I got savaged by midges.

Central Buttress, Black Rocks Anyone who knows me will be familiar with just how much time I've spent at this mental crag and I climbed this route, which epitomises the place, so many times in 2014. Like all the routes at BR it's an awkward bugger- a sandbag at it's lowly grade, unclimbably green for half the year, needs to be done in two pitches if you use a rope (and needs a size 5 cam for the belay!) and, despite following a beautiful natural line, is climbed almost entirely on manmade holds. Mandatory conversation with stoned local kids/ "earthy" local family at the top. Ace.  :thumbsup:

Riders on the Storm, Stennis Head Did this earlier on the amazing Pembroke day. Shirtless in the sunshine. It was my mate's first seacliff experience and as I headed across the traverse he yelled "That looks so fucking epic!"  ;D I'm terrified of deep water so these sort of "it's a bit bold but it's essentially DWS" routes are a real buzz.

Great Buttress, Dovestone Tor Red River Gorge 5.7. Doing the slab pitch at the top unbelayed seemed like a great idea 'til I simultaneously committed to the sloping top and clocked the potential sideways fall.  :o

Top three two sport routes UK Not sure either of these would have made it if I'd have had more than three days clipping bolts, but still..

The Bournemouth Flyer, Portland Cuttings I really like the Cuttings even though I never seem to climb well there! Enjoyed this one- the first thing I'd done that actually felt difficult since hurting my finger. After I did it my mate took a huge whip into the corner and tore a knee ligament though!  :sick:

Mother's Milk, Blacknor South, Portland was good too. First real pump of the year.

Top Spankings

Didn't get properly spanked on anything this year- didn't try (anything) hard enough really.

Amorican, Craig Caerfai Traversed at the wrong level on this and was very close to falling off. I'm never going to talk down slabs with cracks in again!  :-[

Maupassant, Curbar Didn't have the balls to do the layback move on this. Reversed it, got angry with myself, went up again and still didn't have the balls so reversed it again. Classic case of expecting a route to climb itself really.  :look:
« Last Edit: January 02, 2015, 12:54:08 pm by cheque »

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#19 Re: Best of 2014
January 02, 2015, 12:50:22 pm
Top three two boulder probs, UK

Old Lace 6C Holmfirth. After finally trying this problem properly instead of knackered at the end of a session. I did it in a few attempts and instantly down graded it from 7A to 6C. its 6C when you know how.
Cleos arete 5+ second go on the day after not trying t for 3 years.

Top three boulder probs, abroad

La surplomb du lepreaux 6A L'elepant, after trying it on 4 visits neil tells me I am using the wrong holds and do it next go
L'eminence grise 6A buthier tennis - tried on a few trips walk round the top to see where the hold is and tick it. nice moves and high enough to make you think
la Moreau 6A l'elephant - my first 6A in the forest.

Top three one routes abroad (any genre)

Viejos y puretas 7a Desplo, First 7a in chorro. very soft but nice to do a long route with no route fitness.

Top Spankings

My job which I hated with a passion then got made redundant.
My mind sapping all my psyche and want to climb.

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#20 Re: Best of 2014
January 02, 2015, 01:19:18 pm

Managed another big tick this year by visiting Ibiza for the first time (and got served a drink in "Space" by Richie Hawtin, RESULT!)


Good tick that ;D

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#21 Re: Best of 2014
January 02, 2015, 01:28:20 pm
Top three routes abroad (any genre)
Granite Bitten - E3 fingercrack in Sweden. Fantastic rock.
This was mine in 2012, amazing route  :punk:
We definitely need clear seperate categories for trad routes and highballs  :please:

I got ready in advance and wrote a long list, and left it on my laptop, derp.

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#22 Re: Best of 2014
January 02, 2015, 01:45:08 pm
Overall I've had a really good year due to some focussed training and maximising my outside climbing time well. Despite having 2 kids under the age of 3 and a full-time job I managed to repeat my hardest boulder trav (Staminaband), do a couple of 8a+s (my hardest RP grade) and do some 8as quickly. Plus I've climbed 7C again on the 50 degree board at the Schoolroom and done 1-5-8 (25mm rungs) again for the first time in 13 years. Oh, and we had an extension built on the house. 2015 should mean I have a bit more time for evening climbing, as the kids get older and putting them to bed is no longer a two person job :great:

Top three boulder probs, UK

I mostly failed on harder stuff this year, but these ones I got up/along:

Flatword, 7B+, Baslow. Back in Feb. First new problem on grit since breaking my heel. Baltic cold and hammered it into submission, not very pretty.
Moffatrocity, 7B+ (though I think it deserves 7C personally), Crag x. Been on the list for years. Two sessions, subtle drop knee key to success. Ate a whole bag of Haribo on drive to the crag.
RZA Roof, 7A+, Cratcliffe. Satisfying to be able to hold those crimps on a relatively warm September day when in the past I would’ve struggled #deadhanging

Top three boulder probs, abroad

Didn’t boulder abroad this year.

Top three trad routes/soloes UK

Scraping the barrel here as basically haven't done any trad. Have lost the love for the time being and don’t have much time for it anyway. Might try something hard and dead safe next year.

The Weaver, Tremadog. Did at the end of a day of work.
The Rasp, Higgar. For a daft photo thing for work.
Crackstone Rib, Pass. Again, work.

Top three sport routes UK

Agent Provocateur, 8a+, Crunch Buttress. Great to find this little PE route on a buttress I’d never seen before. A 7B+ to a rest, then a 7A? dyno. Pleased to do it quickly in a couple of sessions.
Cider Soak, 8a, Anstey’s. Been on the list for years and finally got the opportunity to visit Anstey’s, en famille. Had a 2.5 hour slot before beach/childcare and crushed it, despite it being wet and needing loads of drying (by my mate Dave – thanks Dave!). My kind of route – got two moves above the jug on the flash. Psyched to try Tuppence next time I’m down there.
Dominatrix, 7c, Kilnsey. Been saving this one for a long, long time and decided I may as well have a go at the on-sight, having been training for my Spanish trip. I had a brief warm up and went for it, relying on just pulling/sprinting to get to the break. Just managed to wobble over the roof and clip the chains.

Top three routes abroad (any genre)
Les Chacals, 8a+/8b, Rodellar. I secretly wanted to do this route having read about it being one of the best at Rodellar, despite officially being on a onsight/flash trip. When I saw it I knew I wanted to try it and as it soon became apparent early on in the trip that I’d be doing quick redpoints instead, I got on it. Two working sessions on the first day, then a rest day, then a thorough working session and then fired it first RP with lots of screaming (not like me!). Surprised, but it felt like I’d earned it after all the training I’d done specifically for this trip. Can’t think of a better sport route anywhere. Sprinting between rests and ‘hero’ drop knee moves on the headwall. Just awesome!
A Cravita, 8a, Rodeller. Had all the beta on this, but fell on the flash at the crux throw for the jug. Next go fell above, then did it next go. Like 3 Works comp wall problems on top of each other. Good fun.
Gracia Fina, 8a, Rodellar. Fell on the high crux, then poor tactics meant falling off again a couple of times due to trying at the end of the day and then in the sun. Did after a rest day.

Top three new route/prob put up

None. Looked at an obvious unclimbed thing on Stanage early on, but it’s too hard/scrittly for me. I’m gonna replace this with top 3 indoors/comps

CWIF 2015. 231 points. Came 43rd. Climbed really well (cough.. lanked a few things.. cough) and enjoyed it.
The Schoolroom. 40 sessions since it re-opened on 1 June. Chuffed to have so far repeated one 7C on the 50 degree board. Modern comp style walls are fun, but I will get stronger here.
Highball comp. It’s sort of become a Christmas tradition for me and the missus to do this friendly comp each year. Love the wall/atmosphere and the setting tends to be very good for the comps (Yann Genoux this yr). Last year we both came 2nd, this year we both won. My target had been 200 points and I managed 205.

Also enjoyed taking part in the DWS comp in Exeter, qualified in 2nd for the semis but couldn't climb Sunday due to family commitments. Two-day comps not really viable for me.

Top Spankings

So many… but the big ones were….
Lou Ferrino (3 sessions). Kept cutting loose on the move from the ‘shelf’ to the right hand pocket. The time I did get the pocket my left foot slipped off the massive rail!
Zeke the Freak. One session in March to confirm I can’t pull on those holds. So much for my first 8b.
Paint it Black. Just don’t know what I’m doing on this other than not getting beyond the first move.
Press Kneeling. The Low Left is my long term ‘hard’ bouldering project. I have done from the start into the left-hand press gaston and I’ve done the stand up. I got really close to the Kneeling and sort of hope the low left won’t be that much harder. I have a plan for getting this done and it involves bench pressing, assisted one-armers and Russian twists.
Subculture at Kilnsey. This is my bogey route. It’s actually the sort of route I despatch quite easily, but this year on my sole trip to Kilnsey I punted off the ‘easy’ top about 3 times in a row (not like me, but it was hideous greasy conditions and my left ankle was massively swollen from a decorating injury). I punted off the top previously the last time I was at K and overall I think I’ve had 4 or 5 days on it as I definitely had previous working sessions. Arggghh!

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#23 Re: Best of 2014
January 02, 2015, 02:09:38 pm
Bit of a strange year for climbing - was quite keen at the start and end of the year, but struggled to get motivated going to the same crags again and again over the summer so went running instead. Think I need to go back to trad climbing!

Top 3 trad routes :-

Grand Illusion, Almscliff (E3 5c) - The stand-out route of the year, but I was only climbing for a few minutes. I left this for ages as it looked intimidating, but finally got on it to discover all the holds are, in fact, huge!
Poetry in Motion, Rylstone (E2 6a) - Boulder problem or route? - who cares? The holds get better as you get higher, but the top-out still makes you think.
Maupassant, Curbar (HVS 5a!) - Couldn't remember if I'd done it before, but got on it having not climbed on the grit for some time. Curbar grades are always quite a fight!

Top three two sport routes, UK :-

Seemed to end up at all the same crags as always, but without enough regularity to break new ground so a bit of a dry year in terms of quality new ticks.
Ice, Dinbren (F7b) - One of my few trips away from Kilnsey. Great route and everything I'm bad at.
Offwithereds, Attermire (F7a+) - Some proper esoterica. Not the finest climbing, but the solitude and the view make up for it.

Top three sport routes, abroad :-

Du Miel Entre Tes Seins, St. Leger (F7b+) - Not a great trip due to cold weather, poor preparation and splitting a tip trying this on one of the few warm days. However, things started to come together towards the end of the trip and dragged myself up this with a couple of fingers wrapped in tape.
Chasing the Dinosaur, Castellet de Calp (F7c) - Having spent many trips in the Costa Blanca, it was good to find some new crags where we could escape the sun! Looks like a strange little crag from a distance, but the rock is generally good and the routes pack a punch.
Cuestion de Estilo, Wildside (F7c) - Something I'd tried on two separate trips over 10 years ago, both resulting in finger injuries. It was my first thought on returning to Wildside and really pleasing to tick it quickly, using exactly the same sequence as I'd been trying back in the day!

Top 3 boulder problems, UK :-

The Keel (7B+) - I'd put off trying this for years, but went surprisingly quickly when I put some effort in. Still managed to drop it 3 times with my hand in the pocket!
Whalebak (7A+) - Ticked at the end of a great day. Even average problems on Simon's Seat seem good because of the surroundings, so top quality problems up there are pretty special.
Electrical Storm (7B) - Went from thinking this looked easy to finding it impossible to ticking it in the space of an hour. Catching the final hold as the rain started to fall made it fortuitous timing!

Top spankings :-

Underhand, Almscliff - I'd never really given this much effort, having struggled to make the heel stick. A change in footwear and a slight change in beta had me really close. Then I knackered the heel on the one right shoe I had with me (rookie error!), so returned the next day only damage a pulley tendon after not warming up properly.
Ian's Traverse, Brimham - This might have been my top spanking last year as well. Having flashed Happy Days when I first did it (8/9 years ago), I've now fallen off this on the Happy Days finish on at least 3 sessions.
The Bandits, Dinbren - First time up this was a massive shock to the system! While it improved on the following attempts, it made me realise that Dinbren really finds out my weaknesses.[/b]

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#24 Re: Best of 2014
January 02, 2015, 03:22:27 pm
3 best trad climbs Scotland:
Frustration, Glen Shian - this delectable slab had been an obsession for a few years, and lived up to it's appearance, especially on this route, easier than expected but simply perfect crimpy slab climbing.
Thelonius, Mungasdale - another obsession that took 6 visits to get both myself and the crag in condition. Even then the boulder start took some effort, but what a reward of super-steep juggy romping.
Lorelei, Loch Tollaidh - climbing anything tricky had all but been dismissed on this mid-heatwave day, but I just gave it a look and that turned into a hugely enjoyable ascent.

3 best trad climbs England:
Wheels of Fire, Bowderstone Crag - all out slapping and power-screaming, miles out from the gear. Life-affirming.
On Secret Sand, Y Foel Penolau - beautiful subtle line, technically exacting climbing, on great rock in a stunning location.
Thumper, Eastby - the very essence of run-out gritstone.

3 best sport climbs:
El Arquero Y El Pez, La Pedriza (F6c+ slab) - finally getting to grips with the holdless horror that is Pedriza.
Aintza, La Pedriza (F6c+ slab) - ditto, and climbed straight after. A great day.
Long Good Friday, Weem (F6c+ slab) - many grades easier than Pedriza 6c+ but still a brilliant technical challenge.

3 1 best boulder problem:
Physical Graffiti, Dumbarton - 7 pads and it still felt committing. Lovely climbing.
...I didn't boulder this year.

3 best first ascents:
Careless Orc, Rhinnogs - roadside 3 star easy classic gritstone arete? Yes please!
Who Rattled Your Cage, The Tiger - quintessential aesthetic choss at it's most remote and beautiful.
Serenity, Serendipity Crag - abseil inspected so felt a bit strange but good climbing in perfect gneiss.

3 best supporting acts:
Belaying Smally on the second ascent of Nerve Damage E7 / E8+++, Ardmair - the most impressive climbing I've seen in person. Abbed down to clean it before aborted onsight attempt and was shocked how bold and hard it was. Smally actually admitted he was scared doing it!
Not spotting Stevie Weir on Physical Graffiti, Dumby - sat on the Eagle boulder, watching what we thought was another tentative attempt, until he started doing it with no spotters and the pads all wrong.
Belaying Steve Perry on The Snake, Loch Tollaidh - at his grade limit, complete sandbag, totally run-out. Inspired me to get on Lorelei afterwards.

3 best trips/days:
Mull, early summer - brilliant weather, no midges, strong coffee, posh whisky, camp-stove curry and loads of good climbing, just as I recovered from a tweaked wrist.
Ullapool, early winter - the last great weather of the year, Assynt glowing in the autumn sun, and some really great climbing.
Reecastle, mid-summer - drove down, led 3 great routes in a few hours, belayed my partner, watched Caff do his solo thing, drove home. A slick operation!

3 that got away:
Bladerunner Direct, Auchinstarry - fell off the final semi-tricky move after doing all the hard bits and pissing the start. Gutting.
The Screaming Weem, Weem - saved for years for the flash, but never really stood a chance. Relentlessly desperate and never worth it's downgrade.
Pugilist Direct, Floors Craig - the climbing was piss, placing a cam was stupidly hard and exhausting, resulting in a slump of the 5b move past it, a waste of good moves.

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#25 Re: Best of 2014
January 02, 2015, 06:09:00 pm
Was my best year in terms of numbers. Did my hardest route and problem in a 3 day period in August.

Top three boulder probs, UK
Roof of a Baby Buddha, Maes Newyddion. Welsh neo-classic. Finally found my sequence.
Lizard King, Llanberis Pass. Beaut of a line only slightly marred by the razor sharp finishing jug.
The Wire, Parisellas. Had a prolific year in the Cave but this was one of the best bits of climbing in there.

Top three boulder probs, abroad
Pugilist, Yosemite. Not a very successful trip (see Top Spankings) but did this on the last day.
The King, Yosemite. Did it ten years ago but was cool to retroflash it on the first day when i felt all optimistic.
Zorro, Yosemite. Just one of lots of amazing easy problems in the Valley.  Nearly everything's amazing there.

Top three trad routes/soloes UK
Nada

Top three sport routes UK
Meaty Madness, Dyserth Waterfall. A Pete Robins link up of two of my routes.  Really good and better since the first roof got harder.
Simon Says, Pen Trwyn. A good addition with 3 boulder problems through stepped roofs and bunched shakes in between.
Bloopers and Production No No's, Ruthin Escarpment.  Managed the first re-ascent of this previous E4 6b after all the holds fell off.  Is a cool bouldery route, 7c+/8a now.

Top three new route/prob put up
One For The Road, Pill Box. Only another link up but this one had always been completely beyond me.  The culmination of years of crabbing along the same holds.  It wouldn't succomb to the usual siege tactics, I had to bide my time and wait for another purple patch.  Maybe the hardest thing I'll ever do!?
http://youtu.be/QmAjEwlVgPI?list=UU-o5UFKfiqYDY28dh6WuJyA
Raiders of the Dark Ark, Llanddulas Cave.  A great experience from start to finish.  Spotted the holds, bolted it and slowly worked it out.  It felt like a long term project at first but then every session I was doing bigger and bigger links until I did it. Why can't they all go down like that! Chuffed to do an FA this hard. Climbing in that roof is so good!
http://youtu.be/pOTu2VScW4I?list=UU-o5UFKfiqYDY28dh6WuJyA
Sweetcorn Man, Dyserth Waterfall. Fun moves, nothing major.

Top Spankings

YOSEMITE! I went too hard on my first day after 3 weeks no climbing, completely fucked my forearms and had to rest for 5 days.  I got 4 days in the following week but climbed pretty shit and felt weak. I was relieved I'd done Midnight Lightning 10 years ago cos i think it would have spanked me!
Got some good spankings off Dense in the motel too:

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#26 Re: Best of 2014
January 02, 2015, 07:17:43 pm
My eyes, my eyes.

I am emotionally traumatised, and should sue, now if I only knew a lawyer.

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#27 Re: Best of 2014
January 02, 2015, 07:26:19 pm
Not a bad year, back in full time 9-5 employment so I got my evenings back this year. Didn't really get involved with limestone this summer, but went to the Schoolroom a fair bit instead, and did 3 4000m peaks in the Alps. And smashed grit 8a with a double-whammy uberwad burnoff.

Top three boulder probs, UK
The Joker - twice in a session with campus and original sequences. Made even more memorable by spending all that afternoon with Alex Megos trying it but bizarrely not doing it. Was expecting him to campus it with trainers and rucksack on. Must have been hungover from the Works party?
Jellybomb - inexplicably ignored yet good problem at Froggatt.
Blackfoot - Lovejoy's newish traverse, good rock, shame there's fuck all else there.

Western Eyes would have bumped Blackfoot off the list if the topout hadn't been iced up the other day...

Top three boulder probs, abroad (including Scotland)
Double Axel
Quark (Sabots)
Envie d'Angle (Elephant)

Top three trad routes/soloes UK
Isla Grace, Froggatt. Not really a route with mats. Thanks to Chris for cleaning this up.
Needle Ridge, Lakes - done in big rigid boots.
Clogwyn Y Person arete, Llanberis Pass.

Top three sport routes UK
None

Top three routes abroad (any genre)
Three 4000m peaks, done in a week of "bad" weather in the alps, first time back there since I was 17. Amazing.
Weissmies Traverse
Alphubel
Allalinhorn

Top three new route/prob put up
Don't think I did any.

Top Spankings
Everything in font - despite being strong I really fucked that trip up climbing wise. Started slow, humid conditions, gave myself a multi-day perma-pump on Salle Gosse, then both me and the missus got ill in the back half of the week. Failed on Beresina again, sacked off Envie d'Ailes when I should in retrospect have stuck at it, and tried not much else.

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#28 Re: Best of 2014
January 02, 2015, 07:30:47 pm
Similar to Gus I look forward to this thread every year

Top three boulder probs, UK
Didn't do much bouldering this year but..

1.pebble wall (Almscliff), the knack ohhhhhh the knack of it
2.the 4+ curving flake next to sulky little boys (slipstones), perfect problem
3.crescent arête one handed, YYFY

Top three boulder probs, abroad

Nada foreign bouldering

Top three trad routes/soloes UK

1. Hanging out at Glastonbury, Castell Helen. my first big route at Gogarth and an experience that I'll never forget. I'm a stronger person because of it. Having fallen off the 2nd pitch on second and hanging onto Duncan with terror at the belay I had to let something else inside me lead off on the next pitch as you undercut over the void, screamed like a little girl when I pulled over the lip.

2. Bloody Sunday, huntsman leap. I was last in the queue on a busy Easter weekend and I just ran up it with everyone shouting from the top.

3. Just another day/scorched my arse, 3 months passed and I was back in the leap. I  imagined myself at the thread months before finally trying it, tried hard but fell off. Came back the next day and smashed it with a leap full of friends. felt like I was really going for it.

Top three sport routes UK

1. Under the boardwalk, LPT. What a route!

2. Obscene Toilet, Raven Tor. Never thought I'd do this but found the short person's sequence and ratted my way up it. took a great lob from the very last move in the rain a few days previously to everyone's delight, great memory

3. Animal Magnetism, Lullworth (it is a sport route!) amazing weekend down south with top level climbing, heckling and party. felt great on this proud line, made all the better when Hickish took his shorts off mid crux and sat on Gus' head!

Top three routes abroad (any genre)

1. Instinct Salvatage, Tres Ponts. Felt like it was slipping away as it got darker and darker but pulled through the bulge on the true last go. Such good climbing I couldn't stop thinking about the moves for weeks after.

2. Sadou, Alliat. Lovely area and solid chunk of grey limestone. I'm jealous of the expats here.

3. The south to north route from Ima's house to the gashouder on rental bikes in the autumn sunshine, bliss.

Top three new route/prob put up

I follow the crowd

Top Spankings

1. Call of nature, Raven Tor the culmination of my left to right perma dry campaign. savage holds that I want to crush. Made progress then damaged finger, see you spring rat bastard.

2. Arch Enemies, Dovedale. perfect route, as good as anything else I've been on in Europe. went back a fair few times but couldn't keep it together for the steepness knowing all the while that a heart breaker was approaching.

3. Body machine, Raven Tor. Can't touch it, bitterly disappointed. Cant bring myself to get back on it.

Top highballs

1. Narcissus, Froggatt. Fell off the top with a big crew and crawled off the mats damaged but happy. Came back a few weeks later and blitzed it, rekindled a waining love for the greatstone

2. Leany Meany, Slipstones. Is the pocket good? Go and find out!

3. The Gypsy, Almscliff. A demon laid to rest, the last time I set off intending to top out I hung from my ankle still locked in the break.

Happy new year everyone.

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#29 Re: Best of 2014
January 02, 2015, 10:16:26 pm
Yes it is.

Also, that picture, lol.

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#30 Re: Best of 2014
January 02, 2015, 10:28:48 pm
Top three boulder probs, UK

White Wand, stanage magic, second go ground up. Brilliant gritstone movement the whole way.

Syrett's Roof, Almscliff done at the beginning of the year when I wasn't climbing so well. Didn't understand where the jug was until it all clicked after 3 sessions.

Slice of life, thorn crag the lowest highball you'll ever do but felt great to work it all out and climb in complete control.

Top six trad routes/soloes This is gonna be hard!

head hunter, huntsman's leap my first E5 in my favourite crag with some good mates. Had to try really hard but was just on the right side of control. Just.

the axe, cloggy mega. Did it with a good friend after she led shrike. Had to battle both fear and pump, but what a route, so exposed and such high quality!

fay, sharpnose once again a battle, this time a little out of control slapping, arms saturated with lactic acid up the final section unable to place any more than the blue alien a little above the pegs. Always wanted to do this but having been spanked at sharpnose in previous years it felt ambitious just setting off.

hanging out at Glastonbury, castell Helen so intense, but reminded me how much I love Hogarth cheese. On getting to the 6 piece hanging belay at the end of the second pitch I thought guy might kill me when he arrived. So good seeing him lead out despite me offering to get him out (I'd have taken the bail out).

the big greeny, almscliff finally grit trad I enjoy! Was asked by old gnarly dude at the bottom if I'd checked the top holds (i hadnt) and was advised to. Already had me boots on and was psyched for the unknown. Obviously fell off from the top to the bottom! Went back the next weekend and smashed it g-up (though did brush and check the top)

fathoms, Connor cove did at the end of the day, with the tide coming in by myself. Felt very alone starting the crux with the waves hitting the base quite hard. Topped out with eyes on stalks. Mega.

top three sport routes, uk not done much uk sport so may not make three...

cosmopolitan did in a session third day on didn't feel likely but suited me well.

Top three routes abroad (any genre)


Eterna, collegats 40m of vert, techy crimping. Very good!

buf, mallorca seventh day on, I wasn't sure I had the stamina especially after seeing how far rob came out from the base when I lowered him off. Just took it as it came, found myself at the crux at 29.5 metres which was fortunately positive crimping and pulled it out the bag!

bisexual, Cala barques, mallorca not great in the water so was apprehensive. Fell off the very top on the onsight but got it second go. The beginning of me enjoying DWS


Top Spankings

narcissus, froggatt balls! Had loads of pads but struggled to commit to the move around the arête! Was happy with my effort and woke up with whiplash the next day. I'll be back!

supersonic, high tor got very scared and pumped on the lower crux and fell onto a wire I wasn't massively happy about and ran away with my tail between my legs. Great though as it broke through my fear of E5s and my worry about blowing the onsight. It's the going for the onsight that counts!

terradets early in the year headed to terradets. Had been out partying the night before my flight and paid for it for the first few days of my trip. Proceeded to fall off everything multiple times. Punter. Oh and it was too hot.


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#31 Re: Best of 2014
January 02, 2015, 11:26:24 pm
Yes it is.

Also, that picture, lol.

You bloody swine, I bet you tell people Bruce Willis was a ghost all along

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#32 Re: Best of 2014
January 02, 2015, 11:28:34 pm
Top three boulder problems

2014 kicked off my bouldering proper. Pleased about the fact I kept training throughout 2014 and worked hard at my bouldering whilst having a very busy year. Here's to the same for 2015!

Superset, Ilkley - End of the day at Ilkley, had heard it was tough and did it in about 20mins in the dark. Missed the top hold on one occasion, launching myself into the unknown and crashing back down onto Nathaniel. An unexpected and most welcome tick. 

The bulb, Almscliff - Done at the very start of the year. 10 sessions or so and a battle to the bitter end. A lot of time, energy and frustration was invested. My hardest and longest siege to date.

Scary Canary, Caley - a Quality problem and one that you just walk straight past. Did this one also in the dark which made it f*cking scary indeed!

Top three routes

Didn't do much trad this year but thoroughly enjoyed the following:

True Grit, Brimham - Feels like a true internship of finger locking.

Psycho, Caley - A major one on my dream list. Forgot the dissertation for a day, filled the car up with pads and just went and did it. Brilliant to climb a Fawcett route.

The Brutaliser, Brimham - Green, thrutchy, scrittly and offwidth. I love it.

Top trip

Spent 3 weeks in India of which 4 days was in Hampi. I can see why Chris Sharma liked it there! Never been to a place so chilled out and the rocks were amazing.


Top spankings

Charming Crack, Brimham - Flippin' heck. This is nails, 2 sessions now and the last one left me limping for 2 weeks.

Track of the Cat, Roaches - fell off at the start on second. I got scared, nervous and bailed on the lead. Should have done it and as top turned out to be fine. Fear is really keeping me back.

Underhand super extension - my mates just took the piss out me but mostly I couldn't do it.

No sport climbing or first ascents this year.



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#33 Re: Best of 2014
January 03, 2015, 12:24:18 pm
Top three boulder probs, UK

Ilkley Bar Kid, Ilkley Back Quarry - Really good technical climbing with a brilliant crux move, maybe the best mid-6 problem I've ever done.

Not My Stile, Caley - More quality technical climbing with a proper grit topout (especially when said top out is green and scrittly).

A Beagle too Far, Baslow - An excellent problem on a boulder I should have climbed on years ago.

Top three boulder probs, abroad

Festin du Pierre, Cuvier - Great moves, good line and a decent height. My new favourite problem in Font.

Cortomaltese, Cuvier - It may be just a massive jump, but it's a bloody good one.

La Dalle Fléaux, Elephant - Probably the first time I've tried a slab harder than 5+ in the forest and actually enjoyed myself (and got to the top).

Top three trad routes/soloes UK

Old Crack, S Crack, and Josephine Superdirect. Ilkley - My 3 favourites from my soloing circuit at Ilkley, quality routes, the crux of the latter just being awkward enough to make you think twice on solo (particularly as there was frequently bird shit on the best footholds).

Top three sport routes UK - Didn't do any

Top three routes abroad (any genre) - Didn't do any

Top three new route/prob put up - Didn't do any

Top Spankings

October trip to Font - Haven't climbed this badly in Font since I first started going there, everything that I'd marked as 'to do' for this trip I went backwards on. Instead spent the week hammered and doing circuit problems, could be worse I suppose.

Underhand - That heelhook should be easy, isn't.

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#34 Re: Best of 2014
January 03, 2015, 01:55:00 pm
Its been a good year for general low 7 tickage... I've not managed to push my grade unfortunately (hardest new thing was 7B) but really enjoyed a wide variety of problems.

Top 3 Boulder Problems UK

Weedkiller Traverse (Tor). Long siege over the summer - enjoyed the fight and got the tick in the end. First 7B on lime. I slag off peak lime regularly (and correctly :D ) but got into it this summer... so this problem is iconic of a change in attitude as well as the tick...

Mothership Reconnection (Thorn Crag). Superb problem. Snatched with the last go and mm of skin of the day. A real seat of the pants scrabble. Excellent feeling - fantastic problem.

Whistler (Woodwell)/Negative reality inversion (Kentmere). I'll put both in as theres not much in the rest of my list :) But enjoyed for different reasons. Whistler as being one of those problems where you do something tiny and almost indescribable in changing body position - and it all falls into place. NRI - well its not 7A how I did it, but it just climbs so nicely anyway...

Top 3 things involving a rope

Me - put a rope on? You're having a laugh. I belayed Nai up Kudos if that counts :D

Top 3 Spankings

Should be top 20 spankings.... I guess I have to start with West Side Story... so near in Feb - and then grit season faded.. when t'season was back in I had one session working it then got myself injured... Maybe I should just hold off until it gets upgraded to 7C....

Crucifix Arete (sans break) (Almscliff). Bah. I LOVE the moves on this problem, but just cannot do it... I even have a little Cypher kick worked into the routine to catch the scrittly crimp on the face - but it still eludes me... <3 Cliff.

Pit Problem (Woodwell). Hmph. And it hurt my back for the first time (I think).

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#35 Re: Best of 2014
January 03, 2015, 02:32:39 pm
2014 Was not the best year for my bouldering CV, mainly due to a damp mild winter and a very warm summer. I managed one or two good ticks, barely enough quality to complete the list below!

Top three boulder probs, UK
Vienna 7B+ - during a great little weekend away (camping in a freezing field in Feb) with Gus and AndiT. After a near flash last year it all came together in a zero gravity moment once I'd removed my long johns!
Pit Problem 7B+ I found this one very hard. Had to give it 110% felt brilliant topping this one out.
Ovine 7B/7B+ after a hot summer of sport climbing I needed to learn to crimp again, this little gem 10mins from my house was the perfect training and is one of my all time fav limestone problems... Again, a zero gravity moment on the last go of the summer with Gus who made a special trip to spur me on  :thumbsup:
Brown wall s/s 6C+ at Gradbach Hill is worth a mention, its a really lovely big of climbing in a beautiful and quiet part of the Peak

Top three trad routes/soloes UK
During the first day of a single DWS trip, afraid I didn't put much effort into the trip due to how hot it was and a few too many sherberts on the first night!
white rhino tea 7A
pink roadster 7A
humanise 6a+

Top three sport routes UK
Was a good year for sport climbing for me, I got a lot of mieadge in and broke through to climb a couple of 7b's during my best days sport climbing to date.
Blockhead 7B my fav climb of the year done first rp
Systems Malfunction 7B an easy roof boulder problem on a rope...PATH.
War Memorial 6c I lost my cornice cherry and ticked off a few of the easier climbs, this one was my fav.

Top Spankings
Barrel Wall Traverse - Berry Head. Second trip and still failing on this due to being an endurance void bouldered :(

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#36 Re: Best of 2014
January 03, 2015, 03:02:22 pm
Top three boulder probs, UK

Rippled wall, bonehill - Day out on the moors alone. Looked mint, so climbed it.
Otherwise i've neglected bouldering! No wonder im weak....

Top three boulder probs, abroad

Nada

Top three trad routes/soloes UK

Nervous shakedown, woodhouse - Did this the other day, headpunt, but did with good mate, good conditions and its a local nemesis with really nice moves

Umpire wall, left arete, Bonehill - Scary, but good cool feature. Felt good on it, perfect company and nice moves. Nuff said.

Black wall eliminate - Was going well enough I could just enjoy the climbing. Had to second it too and it was just as good the 2nd time!

Top three sport routes UK

Puddle jumper - I havent sport climbed in the UK much this year and I put some effort into this

Top three routes abroad (any genre)

Route 1 La frasse, france - After I screwed my knee, I lead up this in one 60m pitch, just before dark after a day of hobbling up after other people. Good company, easy climbing. Loved it, reminded me why I keep climbing!

Ruwi Slabs, oman, Tried to some scary sketchy slab climbing round the back of a hotel in oman.  A right giggle!

Aguillete d'argentiere - first day in the alps, climbing unremarkable, situation, remarkable

Top three new route/prob put up

The as yet un named peak in kyrgyzstan - Beautiful looking peak, remote situation, sound people, an absolute beasting but best feeling getting up (and off) again. Best thing i've ever done all in?

The garlic fische - Kyrgyz, Start at the bottom of a 350m+ limestone slab/cliff and climb to the top. 40m run outs, cool cracks. My first taste of adventure climbing. Possibly the most fun i have had climbing ever. Only HVS but wow. If only I could do this every day!

Not written up anywhere, but some of the climbing I did in oman was ace. Most was horrible, but situations were always stunning and wild.

Top Spankings

Domes de miages traverse - it broke my knee. One day (once i have completely forgotten the walk in)

Wings of unreason - just couldnt get on the slab. Absolutely wounded with this.

Most boulder problems I have tried this year...

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#37 Re: Best of 2014
January 03, 2015, 08:07:32 pm
Realised I never did this last year, probably due to having not much to report. Probably less this year, but now my standards are lower.

Top 3 boulder problems UK

Tour de Nudsville, Leashaw Brow. Great to finally visit this esoteric gem of a crag.
Really enjoyed a couple of days in March reacquainting myself with Caley.
Did Moontan at Rivelin a couple of weeks back, always walked past it before. Old school reaching between boney crimps at the base of a crag. It's shit really, but I've got to take what I can get nowadays.

Top 3 boulder problems abroad
Le Gong, 7a+ Apremont Desert. One of the nicest places I've been to in the forest on a perfect day after a meh start to the week. Funambule, 7b the direct version up the arete, and Veridique, 7b arete just left went down quickly too, mega. The rest of the day was amazing too, great area and didn't see a soul.



Top 3 Trad routes UK

Hypothesis, Roaches Lower. HVS that thinks its E3, just brilliant. With Andi T, who enjoyed it so much he climbed every day for the next 100 days.

Splintered Perspex, E3 6a Chee Tor. Pleased to get a few decent days tradding in on Peak lime, this was the pick of the bunch - such a good crag.

The Pit and The Pendulum, E5/6 6a Nesscliffe. Oh. My. God. The greatest pitch in England? Perfect geometry and suspect rock meet in a perfectly british trad mess of aesthetic glory. I had to rest but it didn't feel like failure, and means I'll have to do it again which is great. Triggered a load of thought about why we climb and what makes routes matter... I'll finish that blog post sometime.



Sport

99% sure I didn't do one this year, which is a win as far as I'm concerned - I don't get enough chances to climb to be wasting them on peak sport.

New

Did put a couple of new things up - an arete at Leashaw brow and a wall at Maid Marian's Stones. Nowt significant but both on great days out with Cofe and the Boy, hopefully more of these to come.

Top 3 spankings

À l'Impossible, Nul n'est Tenu, Roche Aux Sabots. A 7a+ slab should be within my grasp. 3 sessions, hand over the top repeatedly, if I was an inch taller etc. Frustrating.

Straight Talk, Nesscliffe. Did this as a warm up. Clean onsight, but E2 5b I should not have been at my limit!

But mainly, fatherhood and running a company should probably be great sources of satisfaction. Maybe they'll be great in retrospect? On the other hand, genuinely made up I did a fairly avant garde slideshow at Haggler's and got a decent response.


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#38 Re: Best of 2014
January 03, 2015, 08:15:28 pm

Top 3 spankings
À l'Impossible, Nul n'est Tenu, Roche Aux Sabots. A 7a+ slab should be within my grasp. 3 sessions, hand over the top repeatedly, if I was an inch taller etc. Frustrating.

9d this for sure. My only memories of this problem are of the razor sharp crimps tearing holes in my skin like a hungry cheetah devouring a wildebeest. How it gets a bold star in 7+8s is beyond me.

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#39 Re: Best of 2014
January 03, 2015, 08:45:14 pm
I found a sequence on the start I quite liked. Just couldn't stick the top, damn it!

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#40 Re: Best of 2014
January 03, 2015, 09:54:38 pm
I did better at life than I did at bouldering this year, but still had some class days out.

Top three boulder probs, UK

The Fat Lady Sang, Kyloe Crag. Wall to delicate slab, brilliant moves with a brilliant vista.
Walk on By, Curbar. Lifetime list tick, well chuffed.
Pixie Tits, Fairies Chest. Perfect end to an incredible day out with a class team.

Top three boulder probs, abroad

Smiley Face, Plex. This could have been any boulder there, what an incredible place.
Super Prestat, Cuvier. Another tick off the lifetime list, last go best go.
Lady Big Claques, Buthiers. Yikes.

Top Spankings

Vitruvian Man, Trowbarrow. Took me about 2 million goes to do the first move and then about 3 million goes to stick the last move. One of those where you're just relieved to get to the top, not happy. Shame because I think it's a great problem.
Pancras, Mont Pivot. A multitude of excuses led to me dropping the last move to the jug a multitude of times. Next time!
Not Bad Dave, Woodwell. Proper had my eyes out. Almost did it first go and then it took another 2 or 3 sessions for the stars to align.

Life Ticks

Got married. Lived up to the hype, best day of my life. Honeymooned to some amazing places in The Alps, Valais and Font.
Got a job. Hit 30 and finally grew up (a bit). Went back to college, did lots of works experience, now I'm a process operator.
Bought a van....and made it into a camper for said Honeymoon.

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#41 Re: Best of 2014
January 03, 2015, 10:01:32 pm
Straight Talk, Nesscliffe. Did this as a warm up. Clean onsight, but E2 5b I should not have been at my limit!
But then again it is E3 5c, and nails, and I found it harder than Marlina!

Tour Du Nudsville has been on my list for a while.

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#42 Re: Best of 2014
January 07, 2015, 10:35:51 am
Boulders
Boy Racer - one of very few 'short' boulders that I've both been inspired by and been able to do.
Low Blow - basically a route, and I refused to obey the silly rules about knees and toes, so it was essentially a sideways route - but a very, very good one.
Tears of the Angels - wish I'd managed Arch Angels before I hurt my shoulder but this was still really cool, how often do you get to do a 360 degree spin off two marginal kneebars?!

UK sport
The Cider Soak - Old nemesis, the first 8a I ever tried. Such a good route, and very satisfying to come back to it after several years away and find it steady.
Brean Topping - A bit sharp, but genuinely good climbing and I have to admit I do love finding ways of jumping past cruxes that don't seem to work for anyone else.
Psychokiller - SO good, why can't we have more bolted quarried granite in the uk?

Trad
From A Distance - Nearly took a monster fall on this but jumped and caught a thread instead. Very memorable.
Mother Night - nearly abbed into the sea, then ended up so run out I was Deep Water Trad climbing.
Arms Race - bit of a fierce reintroduction to trad, took me about 10 minutes just to get the sling on the ring bolt!
Ramshaw Crack - Had to take a moment to howl and beat my chest at the top.

FA (aka whack new linkups)
Bad Juju - have had two bits of feedback on this, one was 'I didn't know you claim a new problem by  kneebarring the shit out of an existing one and adding a trivial new start' and 'Way better than Enchantress [the original route], a pleasure to climb'.
Ghetto Bouteille - so pleased with this even if it involves very little new climbing I think it's the best set of moves I've been on in Cheddar. The name is a reference to my bottom (and Ceuse locals telling me that they had 'bouteilles' for arms when they were pumped.)

Abroad
Gracias Fina - probably the hardest I've ever fought.
El Topo - spending 24h on a portaledge on my own with nothing but the Rock Warrior's Way for company is definitely going to stay with me.
Alix Punk de Vergons - forgot my chalk bag, had to sprint back to the car through the wet tunnels without my headtorch, splashed loads of water on some tourists, then somehow entered a slightly frenzied zen state on the route and refused to let go.
Fiesta de los Biceps

DWS (all Mallorca!)
Kill Bill 2 - climbing out of a massive cave on massive holds a long way above ominous black water, everything I want from climbing.
Vadage - thought I was on a surprisingly difficult 6c.
Superwoman - Nice to be fit enough to relax on this having been unable to do the crux in 2010

Spankings
Pichenibule - couldn't pull on to the '7b+' pitch off the belay so I pulled up to the next pair of holds. Couldn't pull on to those so I pulled up again...... repeated this process to the 4th bolt and decided to aid it!
Crack of Gloom - as part of the Staffs Nose. Went off route, took a crag length whipper, and then nearly threw up from exhaustion on second.
Caesar -  caked in filth, probably not been climbed in the last decade, and a chossy chimney of doom to finish me off.

Paul B

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#43 Re: Best of 2014
January 07, 2015, 12:43:17 pm
Pichenibule - couldn't pull on to the '7b+' pitch off the belay so I pulled up to the next pair of holds. Couldn't pull on to those so I pulled up again...... repeated this process to the 4th bolt and decided to aid it!

I think this is normal!

Alix Punk de Vergons - forgot my chalk bag, had to sprint back to the car through the wet tunnels without my headtorch, splashed loads of water on some tourists, then somehow entered a slightly frenzied zen state on the route and refused to let go.

Did you get lost? You shouldn't need to go near a tunnel to get to the start of this in fact, I'm not sure how you could?

i_a_coops

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#44 Re: Best of 2014
January 07, 2015, 12:51:25 pm
Good spot - I only had to go through some tunnels to get the car keys from our friends further up the gorge!

As for Pichenibule, I'm glad it wasn't just me. How did it get such a low grade?!

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#45 Re: Best of 2014
January 07, 2015, 01:21:33 pm
It was a fantastic summer for climbing on the high crags, followed by what seems like months of rain and poor conditions.

Top three boulder probs, UK
Coconutter, Gouther Crag - adds some quality moves into the also brilliant stand (J Mascis)
Road House, Nettle Crag (Coniston) - a new Lakes classic
The Giant Peach, Harter Fell - a brilliant new highball slab on perfect rock.

Top three boulder probs, abroad
Various things at Flock Hill in NZ which I don't know the names of!

Top three trad routes/soloes UK
The Nazgul, Scafell - ace route which rarely dries out. Steep and pumpy but with good holds. Epic hangover.
Titan's Wall, Carn Dearg (Ben Nevis) - a mega route at the end of a near perfect weekend.
The Grooves, Cyrn Las - really enjoyed this one.

Top three sport routes UK
I didn't do much sport in the UK this year, but...
Wargames, Chapel Head - superb route which went down quite quickly
Electric Warrior, Chapel Head - Really fun bouldery climbing. Shame there isn't more of it.
The Jim Grin, Trollers Gill - The only venue I went to apart from CHS.

Top three routes abroad (any genre)
2 trips abroad - Costa Blanca in January and NZ in October.
Dos super carrozas, Gandia
1080 and the Letter G, Paynes Ford - slightly shonky rock but a heroic position!
Amino Pro, Paynes Ford - probably the best route I did in NZ (not from a great bunch!)

Top Spankings
The Cumbrian, Esk Buttress - harder than I was expecting, must get fitter!
The Hacienda, Dow Crag. 5 sessions with mixed success.
Pembroke. Oh dear.

JohnM

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#46 Re: Best of 2014
January 07, 2015, 02:04:01 pm
Top three boulder probs, UK
The Wave, Bone Hill - Great overhanging moves on granite!
McNab, Lord's Seat - Felt more like 6C+/7A but very nice rock and climbing.
Ultimate Warrior, Nant Pennant - Finally found this boulder and crushed it!


Top three boulder probs, abroad
Didn't really boulder abroad.  Various easy circuit problems on a long weekend to Font.


Top three trad routes/soloes UK
Wall of the Worlds, Swanage - Nice, safe wall climbing.
Faye, Lower Sharpnose - Great rock and climbing.
Dry Grasp, Borrowdale - Always looked up at this diamond shaped clean sheet of rock from Keswick and Derwent Water and wanted to climb it.  Finally did!

Top three sport routes UK
The Thumb, Kilnsey - Classic line at Kilnsey.  Turned into a real battle during the peak of my shoulder woes.
Vennerne, Shipwreck Cove - Amazing route and new venue psyche.  One of the best 7c+s in the UK!
The Milky Bar Kid, Brean Down - Takes in some of the best climbing at Brean!

Top three routes abroad (any genre)
Aspid, Figols - Felt like a consolation prize after not doing Fisheye but still one of my hardest redpoints and a really good route. 
Tequila Sunrise, Chulilla - Not quite the 8a flash I wanted but very close!
Il Vizzieto, Arco - Fear of my gf belaying pushed me to onsight this despite being injured and unfit!

Top Spankings
Some 8a+ at Oliana - Found the 7c+ start steady and could warm up on it.  Thought the extension would be an easy tick.  I couldn't do the moves.



Bonjoy

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#47 Re: Best of 2014
January 26, 2015, 12:50:31 pm
Better late than never!
UK Trad – Done next to bugger all (again)
The Stone Loach – Hen Cloud - Top crack was harder than I expected!
Shirley’s Shining Temple – Stanage. I’ve put it here to make more room in the bouldering bit.
All the starred VSs on Stanage in 89 guide, in a day. – Solo mission in summer. Good but not a patch on the HVS version.

UK Sport – Hardly did enough to scrape together a top three!

Moator Head – Moat Buttress
Cure for Footjams – The Nook
Rubble Rouser – eatswood – Long  trav with a rest, not a sport route but more 8a+ than 7C/+

UK Bouldering

Master Kush – Rivelin – A very satisfying helicopter
Hunter’s Roof – Hunter Stones – Good mauling. Glad to do in a session without drawing blood.
Witness the Churnetness – Mirf’s Roof. Mirf’s Roof itself is probably the best prob on the block but you can’t argue with big numbers at giveaway grades.

Foreign Sport/Trad – None

Foreign Bouldering – Not loads to choose from.
Nostromo – Apremont
Misfits – Roche au Four – Virtually unfindable from 7+8 map, stumbled on it by fluke after giving up. Worth the frustration.
Magma – Mont Aigu

New Routes

Fist of Fun – Ramshaw – Only did the one new route but it was really good. Bouldery and safe.

New Bouldering – In contrast to all the other categories I did lots of this and had plenty to choose from. So much so I will exceed my quota.

Birdsong – Bradley Quarry Boulders – Spent a lot of effort sorting the landing and then figuring the sequence out. It was going to be an amazing 8a until I found a kneebar, but it is still really good and eliminating the kneebar is worthwhile challenge still given how great the move will be.
Stiletto – Wimberry – Finally got round to trying this arête I’d seen years ago and not too soon as Worm had also had it on his back burner for years and was only a bit slow to act. Superb on-off barndoory slap the way I did it.
Beast of the Field – near Eastby – Again something I’d meant to try for years. Ended up on after getting rained off Flasby Fell. A mint bit of rock, with a very short walk in and nearly always dry.
Mr Dobalina – Dob Edge – Nice bit of quarried grit.
Sheep Shifter – Cave Dale – Got into a bit of exploratory bouldering on the lime and found some decent stuff. This and Hole Dancer are well worth a trip to Castleton for.

Spankings
Candy Kaned – thought I’d worked a clever sequence but couldn’t get the two halves to fit together, frustrating.
Any of Ned’s many mantels e.g. Journey to the Centre of the Mirf
Noisette Puree – Beorlots – Class prob but the bunched rounded topout is a heartbreaker

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#48 Re: Best of 2014
January 26, 2015, 03:01:28 pm
Thought I would fill this out, sometimes when you are taking a beating its nice to remember what you have done.

UK Trad:

Torture Board, Reecastle: Man I have been wanting to do this route for absolutely years. Used to spend so much time in my high school years at that crag, so was nice to return
Disorderly Conduct, Reecastle: Scary, good for my head. Always remember hearing about an epic one of my school teachers had on this so have always been kind of intimidated by it.
Great Flake, Caley: Funny how things can be so much more different than you think they will be.

UK Sport

Austrian Oak, Malham: I actually managed to use my feet at Malham which was nice
Grooved Arete, Kilnsey: I almost managed to recover on the 'Jug'
The Bulge, Kilnsey: Felt long and scary, nice to get over that and get it done

UK Bouldering

Isles of Wonder, Ogwen: Holy shit that boulder is good
Sugar Shack, Flasby: Actually really enjoyed climbing this despite not being the main event, good reason to go back up.
Terry, Caley: So fun, learnt a lot that day and once again took another beating by Cal

Foreign Sport/Trad: Never been away climbing with ropes, maybe I do something about that this year.

Foreign Bouldering: Was very lucky and managed to get two months unpaid leave from work, so spent that time in the States.

Black Lung, Joes Valley: I go away to a foreign country and still end up climbing British problems.
Mandala, Bishop: Dreams do come true
Amok, Font: The 8a Font barrier is over, great problem

New Bouldering

Blue Eyes and Exit Wounds, Ravenscar: The obvious big arête opposite Tom Newmans amazing Requiem for a dream, been thinking about doing this problem for a few years, had 6 sessions on it over two years. Went through the whole process, snapping holds, various sequences. Nice to get it done with a bunch of good mates there.
Diluvian, Kilnsey: always a bit shit bouldering at Kilnsey but it is 3 minutes from my house, starts as for Primitive notion then traverses into the starting jugs of man with a gun. Birthday send.
Tenzing: Link up on one of my favourite welsh boulders.

Spankings:

True North, Kilnsey: I just getting more and more pumped in the Knee Bar. Did it in two overlapping sections, was kidding myself to think I was anywhere near fit enough.
Little Women, Kentmere: That thing is truly nails, feels so much harder than anything I have done before. Been close but tried it in April and was just getting way to warm in the end.
My head I literally have the worse head space for climbing ever known, a least for the most part I managed to keep my lid on this year.






205Chris

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#49 Re: Best of 2014
January 26, 2015, 08:28:08 pm
Foreign Bouldering – Not loads to choose from.
Misfits – Roche au Four – Virtually unfindable from 7+8 map, stumbled on it by fluke after giving up. Worth the frustration.

Good Effort! We wasted a good part of an afternoon looking for this before sacking it off and going to Chateauveau.



 

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