[Doylo]

Was my best year in terms of numbers. Did my hardest route and problem in a 3 day period in August.

Top three boulder probs, UK
Roof of a Baby Buddha, Maes Newyddion. Welsh neo-classic. Finally found my sequence.
Lizard King, Llanberis Pass. Beaut of a line only slightly marred by the razor sharp finishing jug.
The Wire, Parisellas. Had a prolific year in the Cave but this was one of the best bits of climbing in there.

Top three boulder probs, abroad
Pugilist, Yosemite. Not a very successful trip (see Top Spankings) but did this on the last day.
The King, Yosemite. Did it ten years ago but was cool to retroflash it on the first day when i felt all optimistic.
Zorro, Yosemite. Just one of lots of amazing easy problems in the Valley.  Nearly everything's amazing there.

Top three trad routes/soloes UK
Nada

Top three sport routes UK
Meaty Madness, Dyserth Waterfall. A Pete Robins link up of two of my routes.  Really good and better since the first roof got harder.
Simon Says, Pen Trwyn. A good addition with 3 boulder problems through stepped roofs and bunched shakes in between.
Bloopers and Production No No's, Ruthin Escarpment.  Managed the first re-ascent of this previous E4 6b after all the holds fell off.  Is a cool bouldery route, 7c+/8a now.

Top three new route/prob put up
One For The Road, Pill Box. Only another link up but this one had always been completely beyond me.  The culmination of years of crabbing along the same holds.  It wouldn't succomb to the usual siege tactics, I had to bide my time and wait for another purple patch.  Maybe the hardest thing I'll ever do!?
http://youtu.be/QmAjEwlVgPI?list=UU-o5UFKfiqYDY28dh6WuJyA
Raiders of the Dark Ark, Llanddulas Cave.  A great experience from start to finish.  Spotted the holds, bolted it and slowly worked it out.  It felt like a long term project at first but then every session I was doing bigger and bigger links until I did it. Why can't they all go down like that! Chuffed to do an FA this hard. Climbing in that roof is so good!
http://youtu.be/pOTu2VScW4I?list=UU-o5UFKfiqYDY28dh6WuJyA
Sweetcorn Man, Dyserth Waterfall. Fun moves, nothing major.

Top Spankings

YOSEMITE! I went too hard on my first day after 3 weeks no climbing, completely fucked my forearms and had to rest for 5 days.  I got 4 days in the following week but climbed pretty shit and felt weak. I was relieved I'd done Midnight Lightning 10 years ago cos i think it would have spanked me!
Got some good spankings off Dense in the motel too:

[Sloper]

My eyes, my eyes.

I am emotionally traumatised, and should sue, now if I only knew a lawyer.

[dave]

Not a bad year, back in full time 9-5 employment so I got my evenings back this year. Didn't really get involved with limestone this summer, but went to the Schoolroom a fair bit instead, and did 3 4000m peaks in the Alps. And smashed grit 8a with a double-whammy uberwad burnoff.

Top three boulder probs, UK
The Joker - twice in a session with campus and original sequences. Made even more memorable by spending all that afternoon with Alex Megos trying it but bizarrely not doing it. Was expecting him to campus it with trainers and rucksack on. Must have been hungover from the Works party?
Jellybomb - inexplicably ignored yet good problem at Froggatt.
Blackfoot - Lovejoy's newish traverse, good rock, shame there's fuck all else there.

Western Eyes would have bumped Blackfoot off the list if the topout hadn't been iced up the other day...

Top three boulder probs, abroad (including Scotland)
Double Axel
Quark (Sabots)
Envie d'Angle (Elephant)

Top three trad routes/soloes UK
Isla Grace, Froggatt. Not really a route with mats. Thanks to Chris for cleaning this up.
Needle Ridge, Lakes - done in big rigid boots.
Clogwyn Y Person arete, Llanberis Pass.

Top three sport routes UK
None

Top three routes abroad (any genre)
Three 4000m peaks, done in a week of "bad" weather in the alps, first time back there since I was 17. Amazing.
Weissmies Traverse
Alphubel
Allalinhorn

Top three new route/prob put up
Don't think I did any.

Top Spankings
Everything in font - despite being strong I really fucked that trip up climbing wise. Started slow, humid conditions, gave myself a multi-day perma-pump on Salle Gosse, then both me and the missus got ill in the back half of the week. Failed on Beresina again, sacked off Envie d'Ailes when I should in retrospect have stuck at it, and tried not much else.

[Wood FT]

Similar to Gus I look forward to this thread every year

Top three boulder probs, UK
Didn't do much bouldering this year but..

1.pebble wall (Almscliff), the knack ohhhhhh the knack of it
2.the 4+ curving flake next to sulky little boys (slipstones), perfect problem
3.crescent arête one handed, YYFY

Top three boulder probs, abroad

Nada foreign bouldering

Top three trad routes/soloes UK

1. Hanging out at Glastonbury, Castell Helen. my first big route at Gogarth and an experience that I'll never forget. I'm a stronger person because of it. Having fallen off the 2nd pitch on second and hanging onto Duncan with terror at the belay I had to let something else inside me lead off on the next pitch as you undercut over the void, screamed like a little girl when I pulled over the lip.

2. Bloody Sunday, huntsman leap. I was last in the queue on a busy Easter weekend and I just ran up it with everyone shouting from the top.

3. Just another day/scorched my arse, 3 months passed and I was back in the leap. I  imagined myself at the thread months before finally trying it, tried hard but fell off. Came back the next day and smashed it with a leap full of friends. felt like I was really going for it.

Top three sport routes UK

1. Under the boardwalk, LPT. What a route!

2. Obscene Toilet, Raven Tor. Never thought I'd do this but found the short person's sequence and ratted my way up it. took a great lob from the very last move in the rain a few days previously to everyone's delight, great memory

3. Animal Magnetism, Lullworth (it is a sport route!) amazing weekend down south with top level climbing, heckling and party. felt great on this proud line, made all the better when Hickish took his shorts off mid crux and sat on Gus' head!

Top three routes abroad (any genre)

1. Instinct Salvatage, Tres Ponts. Felt like it was slipping away as it got darker and darker but pulled through the bulge on the true last go. Such good climbing I couldn't stop thinking about the moves for weeks after.

2. Sadou, Alliat. Lovely area and solid chunk of grey limestone. I'm jealous of the expats here.

3. The south to north route from Ima's house to the gashouder on rental bikes in the autumn sunshine, bliss.

Top three new route/prob put up

I follow the crowd

Top Spankings

1. Call of nature, Raven Tor the culmination of my left to right perma dry campaign. savage holds that I want to crush. Made progress then damaged finger, see you spring rat bastard.

2. Arch Enemies, Dovedale. perfect route, as good as anything else I've been on in Europe. went back a fair few times but couldn't keep it together for the steepness knowing all the while that a heart breaker was approaching.

3. Body machine, Raven Tor. Can't touch it, bitterly disappointed. Cant bring myself to get back on it.

Top highballs

1. Narcissus, Froggatt. Fell off the top with a big crew and crawled off the mats damaged but happy. Came back a few weeks later and blitzed it, rekindled a waining love for the greatstone

2. Leany Meany, Slipstones. Is the pocket good? Go and find out!

3. The Gypsy, Almscliff. A demon laid to rest, the last time I set off intending to top out I hung from my ankle still locked in the break.

Happy new year everyone.

[Fiend]

Yes it is.

Also, that picture, lol.

[Duncan campbell]

Top three boulder probs, UK

White Wand, stanage magic, second go ground up. Brilliant gritstone movement the whole way.

Syrett's Roof, Almscliff done at the beginning of the year when I wasn't climbing so well. Didn't understand where the jug was until it all clicked after 3 sessions.

Slice of life, thorn crag the lowest highball you'll ever do but felt great to work it all out and climb in complete control.

Top six trad routes/soloes This is gonna be hard!

head hunter, huntsman's leap my first E5 in my favourite crag with some good mates. Had to try really hard but was just on the right side of control. Just.

the axe, cloggy mega. Did it with a good friend after she led shrike. Had to battle both fear and pump, but what a route, so exposed and such high quality!

fay, sharpnose once again a battle, this time a little out of control slapping, arms saturated with lactic acid up the final section unable to place any more than the blue alien a little above the pegs. Always wanted to do this but having been spanked at sharpnose in previous years it felt ambitious just setting off.

hanging out at Glastonbury, castell Helen so intense, but reminded me how much I love Hogarth cheese. On getting to the 6 piece hanging belay at the end of the second pitch I thought guy might kill me when he arrived. So good seeing him lead out despite me offering to get him out (I'd have taken the bail out).

the big greeny, almscliff finally grit trad I enjoy! Was asked by old gnarly dude at the bottom if I'd checked the top holds (i hadnt) and was advised to. Already had me boots on and was psyched for the unknown. Obviously fell off from the top to the bottom! Went back the next weekend and smashed it g-up (though did brush and check the top)

fathoms, Connor cove did at the end of the day, with the tide coming in by myself. Felt very alone starting the crux with the waves hitting the base quite hard. Topped out with eyes on stalks. Mega.

top three sport routes, uk not done much uk sport so may not make three...

cosmopolitan did in a session third day on didn't feel likely but suited me well.

Top three routes abroad (any genre)

Eterna, collegats 40m of vert, techy crimping. Very good!

buf, mallorca seventh day on, I wasn't sure I had the stamina especially after seeing how far rob came out from the base when I lowered him off. Just took it as it came, found myself at the crux at 29.5 metres which was fortunately positive crimping and pulled it out the bag!

bisexual, Cala barques, mallorca not great in the water so was apprehensive. Fell off the very top on the onsight but got it second go. The beginning of me enjoying DWS


Top Spankings

narcissus, froggatt balls! Had loads of pads but struggled to commit to the move around the arête! Was happy with my effort and woke up with whiplash the next day. I'll be back!

supersonic, high tor got very scared and pumped on the lower crux and fell onto a wire I wasn't massively happy about and ran away with my tail between my legs. Great though as it broke through my fear of E5s and my worry about blowing the onsight. It's the going for the onsight that counts!

terradets early in the year headed to terradets. Had been out partying the night before my flight and paid for it for the first few days of my trip. Proceeded to fall off everything multiple times. Punter. Oh and it was too hot.

[Wood FT]

Yes it is.

Also, that picture, lol.

You bloody swine, I bet you tell people Bruce Willis was a ghost all along

[Footwork]

Top three boulder problems

2014 kicked off my bouldering proper. Pleased about the fact I kept training throughout 2014 and worked hard at my bouldering whilst having a very busy year. Here's to the same for 2015!

Superset, Ilkley - End of the day at Ilkley, had heard it was tough and did it in about 20mins in the dark. Missed the top hold on one occasion, launching myself into the unknown and crashing back down onto Nathaniel. An unexpected and most welcome tick. 

The bulb, Almscliff - Done at the very start of the year. 10 sessions or so and a battle to the bitter end. A lot of time, energy and frustration was invested. My hardest and longest siege to date.

Scary Canary, Caley - a Quality problem and one that you just walk straight past. Did this one also in the dark which made it f*cking scary indeed!

Top three routes

Didn't do much trad this year but thoroughly enjoyed the following:

True Grit, Brimham - Feels like a true internship of finger locking.

Psycho, Caley - A major one on my dream list. Forgot the dissertation for a day, filled the car up with pads and just went and did it. Brilliant to climb a Fawcett route.

The Brutaliser, Brimham - Green, thrutchy, scrittly and offwidth. I love it.

Top trip

Spent 3 weeks in India of which 4 days was in Hampi. I can see why Chris Sharma liked it there! Never been to a place so chilled out and the rocks were amazing.


Top spankings

Charming Crack, Brimham - Flippin' heck. This is nails, 2 sessions now and the last one left me limping for 2 weeks.

Track of the Cat, Roaches - fell off at the start on second. I got scared, nervous and bailed on the lead. Should have done it and as top turned out to be fine. Fear is really keeping me back.

Underhand super extension - my mates just took the piss out me but mostly I couldn't do it.

No sport climbing or first ascents this year.

[stokesy]

Top three boulder probs, UK

Ilkley Bar Kid, Ilkley Back Quarry - Really good technical climbing with a brilliant crux move, maybe the best mid-6 problem I've ever done.

Not My Stile, Caley - More quality technical climbing with a proper grit topout (especially when said top out is green and scrittly).

A Beagle too Far, Baslow - An excellent problem on a boulder I should have climbed on years ago.

Top three boulder probs, abroad

Festin du Pierre, Cuvier - Great moves, good line and a decent height. My new favourite problem in Font.

Cortomaltese, Cuvier - It may be just a massive jump, but it's a bloody good one.

La Dalle Fléaux, Elephant - Probably the first time I've tried a slab harder than 5+ in the forest and actually enjoyed myself (and got to the top).

Top three trad routes/soloes UK

Old Crack, S Crack, and Josephine Superdirect. Ilkley - My 3 favourites from my soloing circuit at Ilkley, quality routes, the crux of the latter just being awkward enough to make you think twice on solo (particularly as there was frequently bird shit on the best footholds).

Top three sport routes UK - Didn't do any

Top three routes abroad (any genre) - Didn't do any

Top three new route/prob put up - Didn't do any

Top Spankings

October trip to Font - Haven't climbed this badly in Font since I first started going there, everything that I'd marked as 'to do' for this trip I went backwards on. Instead spent the week hammered and doing circuit problems, could be worse I suppose.

Underhand - That heelhook should be easy, isn't.

[tomtom]

Its been a good year for general low 7 tickage... I've not managed to push my grade unfortunately (hardest new thing was 7B) but really enjoyed a wide variety of problems.

Top 3 Boulder Problems UK

Weedkiller Traverse (Tor). Long siege over the summer - enjoyed the fight and got the tick in the end. First 7B on lime. I slag off peak lime regularly (and correctly :D ) but got into it this summer... so this problem is iconic of a change in attitude as well as the tick...

Mothership Reconnection (Thorn Crag). Superb problem. Snatched with the last go and mm of skin of the day. A real seat of the pants scrabble. Excellent feeling - fantastic problem.

Whistler (Woodwell)/Negative reality inversion (Kentmere). I'll put both in as theres not much in the rest of my list But enjoyed for different reasons. Whistler as being one of those problems where you do something tiny and almost indescribable in changing body position - and it all falls into place. NRI - well its not 7A how I did it, but it just climbs so nicely anyway...

Top 3 things involving a rope

Me - put a rope on? You're having a laugh. I belayed Nai up Kudos if that counts :D

Top 3 Spankings

Should be top 20 spankings.... I guess I have to start with West Side Story... so near in Feb - and then grit season faded.. when t'season was back in I had one session working it then got myself injured... Maybe I should just hold off until it gets upgraded to 7C....

Crucifix Arete (sans break) (Almscliff). Bah. I LOVE the moves on this problem, but just cannot do it... I even have a little Cypher kick worked into the routine to catch the scrittly crimp on the face - but it still eludes me... <3 Cliff.

Pit Problem (Woodwell). Hmph. And it hurt my back for the first time (I think).

[Eddies]

2014 Was not the best year for my bouldering CV, mainly due to a damp mild winter and a very warm summer. I managed one or two good ticks, barely enough quality to complete the list below!

Top three boulder probs, UK
Vienna 7B+ - during a great little weekend away (camping in a freezing field in Feb) with Gus and AndiT. After a near flash last year it all came together in a zero gravity moment once I'd removed my long johns!
Pit Problem 7B+ I found this one very hard. Had to give it 110% felt brilliant topping this one out.
Ovine 7B/7B+ after a hot summer of sport climbing I needed to learn to crimp again, this little gem 10mins from my house was the perfect training and is one of my all time fav limestone problems... Again, a zero gravity moment on the last go of the summer with Gus who made a special trip to spur me on 
Brown wall s/s 6C+ at Gradbach Hill is worth a mention, its a really lovely big of climbing in a beautiful and quiet part of the Peak

Top three trad routes/soloes UK
During the first day of a single DWS trip, afraid I didn't put much effort into the trip due to how hot it was and a few too many sherberts on the first night!
white rhino tea 7A
pink roadster 7A
humanise 6a+

Top three sport routes UK
Was a good year for sport climbing for me, I got a lot of mieadge in and broke through to climb a couple of 7b's during my best days sport climbing to date.
Blockhead 7B my fav climb of the year done first rp
Systems Malfunction 7B an easy roof boulder problem on a rope...PATH.
War Memorial 6c I lost my cornice cherry and ticked off a few of the easier climbs, this one was my fav.

Top Spankings
Barrel Wall Traverse - Berry Head. Second trip and still failing on this due to being an endurance void bouldered

[dunnyg]

Top three boulder probs, UK

Rippled wall, bonehill - Day out on the moors alone. Looked mint, so climbed it.
Otherwise i've neglected bouldering! No wonder im weak....

Top three boulder probs, abroad

Nada

Top three trad routes/soloes UK

Nervous shakedown, woodhouse - Did this the other day, headpunt, but did with good mate, good conditions and its a local nemesis with really nice moves

Umpire wall, left arete, Bonehill - Scary, but good cool feature. Felt good on it, perfect company and nice moves. Nuff said.

Black wall eliminate - Was going well enough I could just enjoy the climbing. Had to second it too and it was just as good the 2nd time!

Top three sport routes UK

Puddle jumper - I havent sport climbed in the UK much this year and I put some effort into this

Top three routes abroad (any genre)

Route 1 La frasse, france - After I screwed my knee, I lead up this in one 60m pitch, just before dark after a day of hobbling up after other people. Good company, easy climbing. Loved it, reminded me why I keep climbing!

Ruwi Slabs, oman, Tried to some scary sketchy slab climbing round the back of a hotel in oman.  A right giggle!

Aguillete d'argentiere - first day in the alps, climbing unremarkable, situation, remarkable

Top three new route/prob put up

The as yet un named peak in kyrgyzstan - Beautiful looking peak, remote situation, sound people, an absolute beasting but best feeling getting up (and off) again. Best thing i've ever done all in?

The garlic fische - Kyrgyz, Start at the bottom of a 350m+ limestone slab/cliff and climb to the top. 40m run outs, cool cracks. My first taste of adventure climbing. Possibly the most fun i have had climbing ever. Only HVS but wow. If only I could do this every day!

Not written up anywhere, but some of the climbing I did in oman was ace. Most was horrible, but situations were always stunning and wild.

Top Spankings

Domes de miages traverse - it broke my knee. One day (once i have completely forgotten the walk in)

Wings of unreason - just couldnt get on the slab. Absolutely wounded with this.

Most boulder problems I have tried this year...

[Johnny Brown]

Realised I never did this last year, probably due to having not much to report. Probably less this year, but now my standards are lower.

Top 3 boulder problems UK

Tour de Nudsville, Leashaw Brow. Great to finally visit this esoteric gem of a crag.
Really enjoyed a couple of days in March reacquainting myself with Caley.
Did Moontan at Rivelin a couple of weeks back, always walked past it before. Old school reaching between boney crimps at the base of a crag. It's shit really, but I've got to take what I can get nowadays.

Top 3 boulder problems abroad
Le Gong, 7a+ Apremont Desert. One of the nicest places I've been to in the forest on a perfect day after a meh start to the week. Funambule, 7b the direct version up the arete, and Veridique, 7b arete just left went down quickly too, mega. The rest of the day was amazing too, great area and didn't see a soul.



Top 3 Trad routes UK

Hypothesis, Roaches Lower. HVS that thinks its E3, just brilliant. With Andi T, who enjoyed it so much he climbed every day for the next 100 days.

Splintered Perspex, E3 6a Chee Tor. Pleased to get a few decent days tradding in on Peak lime, this was the pick of the bunch - such a good crag.

The Pit and The Pendulum, E5/6 6a Nesscliffe. Oh. My. God. The greatest pitch in England? Perfect geometry and suspect rock meet in a perfectly british trad mess of aesthetic glory. I had to rest but it didn't feel like failure, and means I'll have to do it again which is great. Triggered a load of thought about why we climb and what makes routes matter... I'll finish that blog post sometime.



Sport

99% sure I didn't do one this year, which is a win as far as I'm concerned - I don't get enough chances to climb to be wasting them on peak sport.

New

Did put a couple of new things up - an arete at Leashaw brow and a wall at Maid Marian's Stones. Nowt significant but both on great days out with Cofe and the Boy, hopefully more of these to come.

Top 3 spankings

À l'Impossible, Nul n'est Tenu, Roche Aux Sabots. A 7a+ slab should be within my grasp. 3 sessions, hand over the top repeatedly, if I was an inch taller etc. Frustrating.

Straight Talk, Nesscliffe. Did this as a warm up. Clean onsight, but E2 5b I should not have been at my limit!

But mainly, fatherhood and running a company should probably be great sources of satisfaction. Maybe they'll be great in retrospect? On the other hand, genuinely made up I did a fairly avant garde slideshow at Haggler's and got a decent response.

[205Chris]

Top 3 spankings
À l'Impossible, Nul n'est Tenu, Roche Aux Sabots. A 7a+ slab should be within my grasp. 3 sessions, hand over the top repeatedly, if I was an inch taller etc. Frustrating.

9d this for sure. My only memories of this problem are of the razor sharp crimps tearing holes in my skin like a hungry cheetah devouring a wildebeest. How it gets a bold star in 7+8s is beyond me.

[Johnny Brown]

I found a sequence on the start I quite liked. Just couldn't stick the top, damn it!

[sjw]

I did better at life than I did at bouldering this year, but still had some class days out.

Top three boulder probs, UK

The Fat Lady Sang, Kyloe Crag. Wall to delicate slab, brilliant moves with a brilliant vista.
Walk on By, Curbar. Lifetime list tick, well chuffed.
Pixie Tits, Fairies Chest. Perfect end to an incredible day out with a class team.

Top three boulder probs, abroad

Smiley Face, Plex. This could have been any boulder there, what an incredible place.
Super Prestat, Cuvier. Another tick off the lifetime list, last go best go.
Lady Big Claques, Buthiers. Yikes.

Top Spankings

Vitruvian Man, Trowbarrow. Took me about 2 million goes to do the first move and then about 3 million goes to stick the last move. One of those where you're just relieved to get to the top, not happy. Shame because I think it's a great problem.
Pancras, Mont Pivot. A multitude of excuses led to me dropping the last move to the jug a multitude of times. Next time!
Not Bad Dave, Woodwell. Proper had my eyes out. Almost did it first go and then it took another 2 or 3 sessions for the stars to align.

Life Ticks

Got married. Lived up to the hype, best day of my life. Honeymooned to some amazing places in The Alps, Valais and Font.
Got a job. Hit 30 and finally grew up (a bit). Went back to college, did lots of works experience, now I'm a process operator.
Bought a van....and made it into a camper for said Honeymoon.

[Fiend]

Straight Talk, Nesscliffe. Did this as a warm up. Clean onsight, but E2 5b I should not have been at my limit!

But then again it is E3 5c, and nails, and I found it harder than Marlina!

Tour Du Nudsville has been on my list for a while.

[i_a_coops]

Boulders
Boy Racer - one of very few 'short' boulders that I've both been inspired by and been able to do.
Low Blow - basically a route, and I refused to obey the silly rules about knees and toes, so it was essentially a sideways route - but a very, very good one.
Tears of the Angels - wish I'd managed Arch Angels before I hurt my shoulder but this was still really cool, how often do you get to do a 360 degree spin off two marginal kneebars?!

UK sport
The Cider Soak - Old nemesis, the first 8a I ever tried. Such a good route, and very satisfying to come back to it after several years away and find it steady.
Brean Topping - A bit sharp, but genuinely good climbing and I have to admit I do love finding ways of jumping past cruxes that don't seem to work for anyone else.
Psychokiller - SO good, why can't we have more bolted quarried granite in the uk?

Trad
From A Distance - Nearly took a monster fall on this but jumped and caught a thread instead. Very memorable.
Mother Night - nearly abbed into the sea, then ended up so run out I was Deep Water Trad climbing.
Arms Race - bit of a fierce reintroduction to trad, took me about 10 minutes just to get the sling on the ring bolt!
Ramshaw Crack - Had to take a moment to howl and beat my chest at the top.

FA (aka whack new linkups)
Bad Juju - have had two bits of feedback on this, one was 'I didn't know you claim a new problem by  kneebarring the shit out of an existing one and adding a trivial new start' and 'Way better than Enchantress [the original route], a pleasure to climb'.
Ghetto Bouteille - so pleased with this even if it involves very little new climbing I think it's the best set of moves I've been on in Cheddar. The name is a reference to my bottom (and Ceuse locals telling me that they had 'bouteilles' for arms when they were pumped.)

Abroad
Gracias Fina - probably the hardest I've ever fought.
El Topo - spending 24h on a portaledge on my own with nothing but the Rock Warrior's Way for company is definitely going to stay with me.
Alix Punk de Vergons - forgot my chalk bag, had to sprint back to the car through the wet tunnels without my headtorch, splashed loads of water on some tourists, then somehow entered a slightly frenzied zen state on the route and refused to let go.
Fiesta de los Biceps

DWS (all Mallorca!)
Kill Bill 2 - climbing out of a massive cave on massive holds a long way above ominous black water, everything I want from climbing.
Vadage - thought I was on a surprisingly difficult 6c.
Superwoman - Nice to be fit enough to relax on this having been unable to do the crux in 2010

Spankings
Pichenibule - couldn't pull on to the '7b+' pitch off the belay so I pulled up to the next pair of holds. Couldn't pull on to those so I pulled up again...... repeated this process to the 4th bolt and decided to aid it!
Crack of Gloom - as part of the Staffs Nose. Went off route, took a crag length whipper, and then nearly threw up from exhaustion on second.
Caesar -  caked in filth, probably not been climbed in the last decade, and a chossy chimney of doom to finish me off.

[Paul B]

Pichenibule - couldn't pull on to the '7b+' pitch off the belay so I pulled up to the next pair of holds. Couldn't pull on to those so I pulled up again...... repeated this process to the 4th bolt and decided to aid it!

I think this is normal!

Alix Punk de Vergons - forgot my chalk bag, had to sprint back to the car through the wet tunnels without my headtorch, splashed loads of water on some tourists, then somehow entered a slightly frenzied zen state on the route and refused to let go.

Did you get lost? You shouldn't need to go near a tunnel to get to the start of this in fact, I'm not sure how you could?

[i_a_coops]

Good spot - I only had to go through some tunnels to get the car keys from our friends further up the gorge!

As for Pichenibule, I'm glad it wasn't just me. How did it get such a low grade?!

[georgenorth]

It was a fantastic summer for climbing on the high crags, followed by what seems like months of rain and poor conditions.

Top three boulder probs, UK
Coconutter, Gouther Crag - adds some quality moves into the also brilliant stand (J Mascis)
Road House, Nettle Crag (Coniston) - a new Lakes classic
The Giant Peach, Harter Fell - a brilliant new highball slab on perfect rock.

Top three boulder probs, abroad
Various things at Flock Hill in NZ which I don't know the names of!

Top three trad routes/soloes UK
The Nazgul, Scafell - ace route which rarely dries out. Steep and pumpy but with good holds. Epic hangover.
Titan's Wall, Carn Dearg (Ben Nevis) - a mega route at the end of a near perfect weekend.
The Grooves, Cyrn Las - really enjoyed this one.

Top three sport routes UK
I didn't do much sport in the UK this year, but...
Wargames, Chapel Head - superb route which went down quite quickly
Electric Warrior, Chapel Head - Really fun bouldery climbing. Shame there isn't more of it.
The Jim Grin, Trollers Gill - The only venue I went to apart from CHS.

Top three routes abroad (any genre)
2 trips abroad - Costa Blanca in January and NZ in October.
Dos super carrozas, Gandia
1080 and the Letter G, Paynes Ford - slightly shonky rock but a heroic position!
Amino Pro, Paynes Ford - probably the best route I did in NZ (not from a great bunch!)

Top Spankings
The Cumbrian, Esk Buttress - harder than I was expecting, must get fitter!
The Hacienda, Dow Crag. 5 sessions with mixed success.
Pembroke. Oh dear.

[JohnM]

Top three boulder probs, UK
The Wave, Bone Hill - Great overhanging moves on granite!
McNab, Lord's Seat - Felt more like 6C+/7A but very nice rock and climbing.
Ultimate Warrior, Nant Pennant - Finally found this boulder and crushed it!


Top three boulder probs, abroad
Didn't really boulder abroad.  Various easy circuit problems on a long weekend to Font.


Top three trad routes/soloes UK
Wall of the Worlds, Swanage - Nice, safe wall climbing.
Faye, Lower Sharpnose - Great rock and climbing.
Dry Grasp, Borrowdale - Always looked up at this diamond shaped clean sheet of rock from Keswick and Derwent Water and wanted to climb it.  Finally did!

Top three sport routes UK
The Thumb, Kilnsey - Classic line at Kilnsey.  Turned into a real battle during the peak of my shoulder woes.
Vennerne, Shipwreck Cove - Amazing route and new venue psyche.  One of the best 7c+s in the UK!
The Milky Bar Kid, Brean Down - Takes in some of the best climbing at Brean!

Top three routes abroad (any genre)
Aspid, Figols - Felt like a consolation prize after not doing Fisheye but still one of my hardest redpoints and a really good route. 
Tequila Sunrise, Chulilla - Not quite the 8a flash I wanted but very close!
Il Vizzieto, Arco - Fear of my gf belaying pushed me to onsight this despite being injured and unfit!

Top Spankings
Some 8a+ at Oliana - Found the 7c+ start steady and could warm up on it.  Thought the extension would be an easy tick.  I couldn't do the moves.

[Bonjoy]

Better late than never!
UK Trad – Done next to bugger all (again)
The Stone Loach – Hen Cloud - Top crack was harder than I expected!
Shirley’s Shining Temple – Stanage. I’ve put it here to make more room in the bouldering bit.
All the starred VSs on Stanage in 89 guide, in a day. – Solo mission in summer. Good but not a patch on the HVS version.

UK Sport – Hardly did enough to scrape together a top three!

Moator Head – Moat Buttress
Cure for Footjams – The Nook
Rubble Rouser – eatswood – Long  trav with a rest, not a sport route but more 8a+ than 7C/+

UK Bouldering

Master Kush – Rivelin – A very satisfying helicopter
Hunter’s Roof – Hunter Stones – Good mauling. Glad to do in a session without drawing blood.
Witness the Churnetness – Mirf’s Roof. Mirf’s Roof itself is probably the best prob on the block but you can’t argue with big numbers at giveaway grades.

Foreign Sport/Trad – None

Foreign Bouldering – Not loads to choose from.
Nostromo – Apremont
Misfits – Roche au Four – Virtually unfindable from 7+8 map, stumbled on it by fluke after giving up. Worth the frustration.
Magma – Mont Aigu

New Routes

Fist of Fun – Ramshaw – Only did the one new route but it was really good. Bouldery and safe.

New Bouldering – In contrast to all the other categories I did lots of this and had plenty to choose from. So much so I will exceed my quota.

Birdsong – Bradley Quarry Boulders – Spent a lot of effort sorting the landing and then figuring the sequence out. It was going to be an amazing 8a until I found a kneebar, but it is still really good and eliminating the kneebar is worthwhile challenge still given how great the move will be.
Stiletto – Wimberry – Finally got round to trying this arête I’d seen years ago and not too soon as Worm had also had it on his back burner for years and was only a bit slow to act. Superb on-off barndoory slap the way I did it.
Beast of the Field – near Eastby – Again something I’d meant to try for years. Ended up on after getting rained off Flasby Fell. A mint bit of rock, with a very short walk in and nearly always dry.
Mr Dobalina – Dob Edge – Nice bit of quarried grit.
Sheep Shifter – Cave Dale – Got into a bit of exploratory bouldering on the lime and found some decent stuff. This and Hole Dancer are well worth a trip to Castleton for.

Spankings
Candy Kaned – thought I’d worked a clever sequence but couldn’t get the two halves to fit together, frustrating.
Any of Ned’s many mantels e.g. Journey to the Centre of the Mirf
Noisette Puree – Beorlots – Class prob but the bunched rounded topout is a heartbreaker

[turnipturned]

Thought I would fill this out, sometimes when you are taking a beating its nice to remember what you have done.

UK Trad:

Torture Board, Reecastle: Man I have been wanting to do this route for absolutely years. Used to spend so much time in my high school years at that crag, so was nice to return
Disorderly Conduct, Reecastle: Scary, good for my head. Always remember hearing about an epic one of my school teachers had on this so have always been kind of intimidated by it.
Great Flake, Caley: Funny how things can be so much more different than you think they will be.

UK Sport

Austrian Oak, Malham: I actually managed to use my feet at Malham which was nice
Grooved Arete, Kilnsey: I almost managed to recover on the 'Jug'
The Bulge, Kilnsey: Felt long and scary, nice to get over that and get it done

UK Bouldering

Isles of Wonder, Ogwen: Holy shit that boulder is good
Sugar Shack, Flasby: Actually really enjoyed climbing this despite not being the main event, good reason to go back up.
Terry, Caley: So fun, learnt a lot that day and once again took another beating by Cal

Foreign Sport/Trad: Never been away climbing with ropes, maybe I do something about that this year.

Foreign Bouldering: Was very lucky and managed to get two months unpaid leave from work, so spent that time in the States.

Black Lung, Joes Valley: I go away to a foreign country and still end up climbing British problems.
Mandala, Bishop: Dreams do come true
Amok, Font: The 8a Font barrier is over, great problem

New Bouldering

Blue Eyes and Exit Wounds, Ravenscar: The obvious big arête opposite Tom Newmans amazing Requiem for a dream, been thinking about doing this problem for a few years, had 6 sessions on it over two years. Went through the whole process, snapping holds, various sequences. Nice to get it done with a bunch of good mates there.
Diluvian, Kilnsey: always a bit shit bouldering at Kilnsey but it is 3 minutes from my house, starts as for Primitive notion then traverses into the starting jugs of man with a gun. Birthday send.
Tenzing: Link up on one of my favourite welsh boulders.

Spankings:

True North, Kilnsey: I just getting more and more pumped in the Knee Bar. Did it in two overlapping sections, was kidding myself to think I was anywhere near fit enough.
Little Women, Kentmere: That thing is truly nails, feels so much harder than anything I have done before. Been close but tried it in April and was just getting way to warm in the end.
My head I literally have the worse head space for climbing ever known, a least for the most part I managed to keep my lid on this year.

[205Chris]

Foreign Bouldering – Not loads to choose from.
Misfits – Roche au Four – Virtually unfindable from 7+8 map, stumbled on it by fluke after giving up. Worth the frustration.

Good Effort! We wasted a good part of an afternoon looking for this before sacking it off and going to Chateauveau.