[fried]

Get well soon little miss Ginns

Crap week. Too much work, too much travelling to work, and sick. Too tired to add an extra hour onto my 3h daily commute to do not much at my wall.

M-F - Nothing
Sat - Fantastic weather, but I'm not feeling great, still head out as I can't bear missing this kind of opportunity. After a year of doing a lot of well-known stuff I decided to go back to Roche qui tourne for a change. This looked like a bad idea when I saw a lot of men with guns and dogs, followed by a wild boar running along side my car, this is the first time I'd ever seen one in Font, impressive although the poor thing looked exhausted. Happily he disappeared across the road and into some woods.

Planless I decided to not waste any time and had another look at Cul de chien. I did a few yellows, picked off a couple of reds then headed out to find the end of the red circuit. Thanks to misunderstanding Rginns instructions I went in completely the opposite direction, after a long and pointless hunt I eventually found it at the beginning of the yellow circuit. I had a play on a couple of things (bain de sang, verglas frequente) but wasn't really feeling up to it. Had a break, did a few yellows/blues at Sabots on the way back to the car. Very tired.

Sun- Nothing

[Schnell]

I hope wee Ginns  is improving

STG: fix tweaky middle finger. continue and progress with shoulder stability exercises also I have one not very crimpy 7A+ project on the go which should get done as soon as I have a decent session while rested
MTG: 7B/+ proj

M: v.short aerocap session at the wall. 20 up and down easy problems. Technique-wise I'm trying to use this to focus on climbing with shoulders engaged.
T.
W. wall training session, FB back two crimping and monos, plus a bit of openhanded campusing on big rungs. I slightly tweaked the finger by getting a bit too enthusiastic on a problem while warming up. stupid
T.
F. wall training session, I was feeling tired after having a late meeting the night before and not sleeping enough so I didn't get much done.
S. work and parent's combined 60th birthday so not a lot of resting.
S. outdoor session in ok conditions. got one new 7A, steep with big holds so ok for the fingers, then I had a few terrible attempts on 7A+ project no.1. couldn't do some moves that I had done first go last time. still a nice day out with friends I haven't seen much recently

Altogether a meh week climbing-wise, to be fair I should be happy with my 7A on sunday because I've failed on it before and it's not my style at all. I'm a bit frustrated with my finger not improving. I haven't had a proper diagnosis because the knowledgeable physio I would go to is away. I also think I'm in a bit of a low point of a cycle and should probably have an easy week.

[nathanie1]

STG: Ben's groove, Fight on black, Fractal, Ju ju club
MTG: 7C, all the 7B+s at Caley
LTG: Zoo York, Jason's roof, Rhythm

M - rest. Leg day, squats, lunges and all that jazz
T - Depot, good session on Beatmaker board and new 30 board, undercuts and pinches
W - rest
T - good woodie session, focusing on poor feet and slow moves between reasonable holds
F - rest, yoga
S - rest, grim weather
S - Almscliff, ticked fractal, pottered about a lot and didn't get more injured

tweaky finger felt pretty bad after two silly sessions on the boards, but after an easy weekend it's looking better. Tendonitis is creeping back.

Plan - ice ice ice, antagonistic training, perhaps avoid plastic for the week. Lamp session at Caley??

[andy_e]

Might also be an idea to avoid fierce crimpfests like Fractal!

[nathanie1]

I wasn't planning on getting on it, but it was pretty much the only unoccupied problem yesterday. My right hand (the non-injured one) took the bulk of the load.

[webbo]

 Mon. Nothing.
Tue. Board worked out 6 new problems did 2 of the right hand versions.
Wed. Nothing.
Thu. Board did 3 of the left hand versions of Tuesday problems and repeated Tuesdays 2.
Fri. Nothing.
Sat. Board. 15 problems the 6 problems 4 times each with screw on footies. Bike pal 46.58 miles 2 hrs 34 mins 18.04 mph.
Sun. Bike 80.22 miles 4 hrs 31 mins. 17.72 mph well battered.

[cheque]

I hope your kid gets better rginns. Hold tight all injured crew.

STG- a font 7 before the end of 2014.

2014 goals- 20 11 E-points, back to 7th grade in sport (won't happen) and bouldering.

LTG- 8a sport, classic trad routes that currently seem way out of my league.


M- Nothing.

T- Nothing.

W- Nothing.

T- Notts Depot. Went with the aim of redpointing the red "7a+" on the circuit board. Felt great warming up and inadvisably did three laps of the board straight off ("6a" into "6c" into "6a" again). I wouldn't say it finished me off but it certainly contributed to me not doing the red circuit... Tried some of the new yellow (pretty hard) boulder problems- Flashed/ second go-ed a few compression/ mantel ones but lacked power for the steep ones. Not sure how much of this is due to climbing Easy Grit all year and how much to my circuit exertions.

F-Rest. Got the new Yorkshire guide (There's quite a lot of grit in Yorkshire isn't there? I haven't climbed on any of the crags in the guide and naively thought that as it featured neither Almscliff, Brimham nor Caley it would be thinner than the first volume ) and got utterly psyched to go out climbing.

S- Rest.

S- Curbar. Not mint conditions but who cares when you haven't touched rock for a month. Flailed on a succession of the ace problems on the crag before doing Art of Japan. Pleased with this as it's an ace problem and my hardest one all year. 

[pyrosis]

STG - be able to rock climb again
MTG - Pow Pow (7B) here in Bishop, Planet of the Apes (7A+) at Joes in April
LTG - Checkerboard, Stained Glass, Mandala

M - worked 12 hours
T - worked 12 hours
W - 60 minutes fingerboard
T - gorged on turkey
F - 1.5 mi walk
S - 1.5 mi walk
S - nada