[kelvin]

Over 70 hours at work this week, so not much climbing done.

Mon - Worked late.

Tue - Worked late. Saw physio at lunchtime to sort upper back. Seems I made everything unhappy whilst trying too hard at yoga the week before. She inflicted much pain but it seems to have done the trick.

Wed - Quick one hour boulder, Got on the 30deg, easiest route with jugs and got the inside flagging nailed down. Then lapped it face on, dropped knee and inside flagging stylee one after the other. Didn't get pumped either, so the training is working well. Yoga class after.

Thu - Yoga class took by some old lady. Went with mate who's been diagnosed with cancer, his first time but she was brilliant. Place was full of old people, so it was more about staying/getting flexible and seems to be exactly what I want from yoga. Only £4 and you can just turn up, so I may well keep this up. Hamstrings are the biggest issue.

Fri - Went out drinking with the youth from the climbing wall. Last man standing. Winner.

Sat - Hangover. Fail. Worked.

Sun - Worked. Boulder room for an hour. Tried to stay on the 30deg, 45 and roof panels. No pump, just not strong enough and I reckon that's a lot to do with my core. Spent ages at the top of a V3 that has a stupid last move, trying to work out a decent way to do it. Finally found a solution, yeah, really happy with that as I'd seen a lot of better climbers bail from the top. Then hit the campus rail, to sort lockoff strength. Did better than expected. Couldn't even manage two pullups after the bouldering tho. Good session all round.

All the aerocap has done what it should have, so it's time to focus more on strength now. I am weak. I will no longer be. I hope.

[csl]

November Goals
Find a UK project (7c+) to work
Go Trad climbing
Climb a V8 indoors

Winter Goals
Climb 7c+
Any taped boulder on Biscuit Factory 50 degree board

Mon -
Tue -
AM - Fingerboard Max Hangs. Fell off last move of 7b+ (feels more like 7c/+ to me!) circuit. 4x4's
PM - AnCap + Boulders
Wed -
Thu - Continuity, Pullups, Core
Fri -
Sat - Cheddar. Got on Valley of the Blind, bit wet to RP. But got a sequence sorted so should go next time fairly easily. Awesome route.
Sun -

[Muenchener]

STG (Autumn): Another decent day or two on the rock this year, weather permitting
    Indoor 7a redpoint.
MTG (2015): 7b redpoint
            Beastmaker 5A routine.
LTG (<= 5 years): Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl West Face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)

Uneventful domesticity (except Thursday).

M:
T: Wall, Gilching, Routes. 3 x 5c warmup, 3 x 7a proj attempts - did all the moves twice, linking the whole thing still feels non-imminent - 6a+ 6b+ 5c.
W:
T:   Beastmaker. Having progressed nicely for a few weeks on strength-oriented hangs (5 on, 10 off), decided to try a more PE-oriented focus with Dan & Ned's insane "5A" repeater routine. Jesus Christ. Bailed after the second round at minus 6kg.
   Warmed up with 20kg kettlebell 3 per side TGUs, 2 x 30 swings. Note To Self: next time you have to abort a TGU, try to dump the 'bell somewhere other than on own ribs. 
F:
S: Swimming with M jnr. He has school sports next week and reckons he has podium chances in the 200 freestyle. I can confirm that he is faster than me.
S: Walked to the park with a 17kg rucksack and the best of intentions, only to discover that Thursday's bruised ribs were firmly opposed to any form of pulling exercise.
   Beastmaker 5A repeaters: another attempt, equally desperate.
   Alpine approach / snowboard touring season training. Ticked a training goal I have been working owards for a long time: 1,000 step-ups in 50 minutes with a 15kg rucksack. yyfy.

[Muenchener]

November Goals
Find a UK project (7c+) to work
Go Trad climbing
Climb a V8 indoors

And? Not much November left to go now.

[rginns]

I've had better weeks:
63 Kg
STG = Consolidate 7A, get a few established Lancs classic 7A/+s ticked by the end of winter.
MTG = 7B - By this time next year it will be good to have done at least one quarry based 7B.
LTG = 7C ha ha ha ha ha ha although I've given myself until I'm 40 (7 yrs).

Mon -
Tue - lunch: brief session on Hanks wall, made progress.
Wed - evening: Crusher board session, felt shit
Thur - woke up to our little girl having a seizure. Call the ambulance who rush her to hospital, spend awful 2 hours in resus, then high dependency unit. Girl has CT scan, lumber puncture, spends most the day sedated. I get back home at 1am. Wife stays in hospital.
Fri - go to hospital. Girl a bit better.
Sat - ditto - evening pull up session: 91 in 13mins.
Sun - ditto. Cannula fails so doctor decides not to put back in as close to the end of treatment. Get discharged.

So not a good week really. Things looking more positive now though.this wk should be better.

[kelvin]

Glad to here she's back home mate - it's awful when they're in hospital. Hope this week takes a turn for the better.

Kelvin

[andybfreeman]

Season 1 of periodised plan. Aiming towards sending Tyranny in Jan

M - fun indoor session. Leading up to 25
Tu - rest
W - final hangboard session. Started at 5am as had work christmas lunch so knew the arvo would be a write off
Th - predictably spent dying on my arse after drinking way too much at xmas lunch
F - rest
Sa - first power session including worked boulder ladder to warm up and then on to the campus board. New gym in southside, great bouldering wall (and good looking roped walls from walltopia) but the worst campus board I've ever tried to use! handmade rungs were super sharp but I had a word with the owner and hopefully they'll be sanded again before my next session
Su - outdoor climbing at pages. Had a couple of shots at a 27 linkup. Holds felt great but I am lacking PE (not surprising!) so no send.

Weight - got heavy last week, seeing 72 for the first time in a while but back to 69.8 this morning. No chocolate and only one glass of wine last night so the diet has started in earnest

[krymson]

STG: stay healthy/injury free
MTG: 7b/+ project

Tuesday: Outdoors w friend around 6b/c level
-Warmed up with a 6a+ trad climb-  2 moderate overhangs into a nice slab.
-Tried a 6c with a tricky crux -dyno from tiny crimp rail  to a good sidepull
Fell 1st go. worked moves. sent it next go. Also coached my friend through his first 6c!
-Sent a soft 7a+ which I've worked the moves on previously, first go.
-Friend convinced me to TR his crimpy, overhanging, 7c+ project. First 70% is sweet, 5.11 climbing. last 30% gets progressively more impossible. Much cursing and flailing occured.

Thur: Overhanging lead wall. Have not led artficial in a long time so was good training.
Worked a 7a and 7a+(estimated grades). Indoor routes seem much more sustained difficulty than outdoors and got quite a good workout.

Fri: Sore from Thursday.
Sat: Still sore

Sun: Outdoors w friend around 7a/+ level
-"warmed up" on a 6b+ - felt a bit at my limit as a warmup.
-friend was eager to try his 7b+ project. i got on toprope and flailed a bit against my better judgement.
-Got on my 7b/+ project, a 7b+ which alex honnold warmed up on and unceremoniously downgraded to 7b, and made some good progress. Seems like bravery, a bit more attention to the feet, and better conditions are all that stand between me and the send now. Damn you honnold!

[JackAus]

STG: DWS project. Ignoring this for a few weeks while I'm away working. Don't really have any goals while I'm in Syd.
MTG:
LTG: V11

Working on ropes all week. Early starts mean plenty of time in arvos (finish at 230pm!) but then early to bed!

M: Indoor. Northern Beaches Rockhouse. Been here a couple times before. Small bouldering area but just around the corner from me. Did stuff up to about V5. Fingerboard, 1 armer stuff, campus board.
T: Indoor. NBR again. Fingerboard, 1 armer stuff, campus board.
W: Rest.
T: Rained off at work so half day and went to Lindfield in the arvo. Lots of usual scary highball without pads, just stuff up to V4.
F: Indoor. NBR. Worked some of the hardest probs there (maybe V8?), nearly got an prob ~V6/7. Tricky, slopey and HOT! Fingerboard, 1 armer stuff, campus board.
S: "Rest day". 10hr day at work. Busiest day as we work over a cafe & daycare. Sat is the only completely free day we have.
S: 2hr ride first thing in morning. Blast through some twisties. Then in the arvo did a big 5hr ride. Massive torrential downpour halfway through. Great ride though, def do again on a dry day.

[tomtom]

Shit Rginns - that sounds terrible... hope she's on the mend...

[Muenchener]

+1. Sounds awful. Best of luck.

[T_B]

84.8Kg

M - Foundry, lunch. Weighted short repeaters (2 sets of 5 on, 10 off x 5) with 15Kg, plus dips (I am terrible at dips - managed 7 max!)
T - Foundry, lunch. Wave bouldering mileage, up to 7B.
W -
T - Works p.m. with the missus. Flashed 20 blacks.
F - School, lunch. General bouldering. Fingers tired.
S -
S - Had a late morning slot - warmed up on F/board, then walked to the Plantation, which was soaked. Went to the School. Had a good session, linking one more move on the big wood 7C+, made progress on some 50 degree problems.

The old body was starting to feel a bit too worked this week. Need greater variety or do fewer sessions. Left middle finger ever so slightly tweaked, so bit of a false start on weighted repeaters.

[tomtom]

STG: Climb after 15th Dec.

No climbing this week - just trying to rehab the back/arse ache situation. There has been steady progress on the back, but it still hurts most of the time and I can't get lower than my knee caps when trying to touch my toes.

Thanks loads to all the posts last week and DM's suggesting methods/stretches to move this on. Also knowing that it will probably take a good few weeks to clear up is useful to know - as previous back niggles have cleared up after a week or two.

Most days consist of getting up, crawling/stooping out of bed, having some ibuprofen and starting a massage/stretching routine to try and get moving/going. Then once limbered up going through some more serious stretching and lower back strengthening exercises. And repeat...

Thankfully, I have pretty full weeks this week (off to NL for a few days) and next week (4 day meeting) so there would not have been any chances to go climbing anyway - but I've been getting a bit down moping around the house when its been sunny outside.. Still it's easing up slowly - though its hard to know whether this is more to do with me becoming used to the pain and adjusting how I move/walk etc... Continuing with once a week physio for now...

[ummagumma]

STG: Finish cleaning project
MTG:

Tues: Hangboard Session.  Repeaters. Two sets on slopers and one set on medium edges.

Thurs: Nothing. Planned for a HB session but felt tired.

Sun: Bouldering. Scoped out a great boulder off the beaten track to a established area a few weeks ago. Spend a lot of time striping the moss and cleaning. The lower two thirds is now climbable. Upper third I got the moss off but will need rope to access the top to clean. The bloc is huge and I see 3 sweet lines. Will need a lot of bravery for the top outs  .  Worked two of the problems and they climb great - Big moves on medium type holds. Could only link three moves on each. I think I will need a lot more power and stamina for these projects to fall however now I have my motivation and goal for the winter training! These projects will be my life for the next few months!
 

[rginns]

Thanks Kelvin, TomTom, Meunchener, appreciate the thoughts, she's looking more normal now (i.e. cheeky) and less grey. Very scary, looking forward to returning to mundane normality

[shark]

11.8-10

Two visits to the physio but otherwise no exercise this week other than theraband rehab exercises. Could have done some deadhanging but didn't feel like it.

Shoulder is almost back to normal and in some ways better than normal. Have two more physio visits booked in this week.

Work is on the wane at last and had a chilled out weekend driving down to my parents in Somerset then on to see Tommy compete in the Finals of the English Schools Cross Country Championships in Newquay.

The boards have gone back up at home. Will start putting holds on tonight. Less steep than before at around 25 degrees.

All-in-all feeling much more positive about life and climbing - hope it lasts. Annoying to have lost two weeks training time but hopefully have an uninterrupted block of 3 weeks before we go skiing at christmas.   

[shark]

The old body was starting to feel a bit too worked this week. Need greater variety or do fewer sessions. Left middle finger ever so slightly tweaked, so bit of a false start on weighted repeaters.

Maybe just have an easier week - looking back at previous entries you have been doing intense stufff at the School etc for several weeks now (with good results). Or maybe time to switch to indoor routes for a period?

[csl]

November Goals
Find a UK project (7c+) to work
Go Trad climbing
Climb a V8 indoors

And? Not much November left to go now.

I failed them all...

[nik at work]

'Kin hell pasty that sounds bad! Glad to hear she's on the mend. I'm sure I'd just freak out and be useless in the same situation.

[T_B]

The old body was starting to feel a bit too worked this week. Need greater variety or do fewer sessions. Left middle finger ever so slightly tweaked, so bit of a false start on weighted repeaters.

Maybe just have an easier week - looking back at previous entries you have been doing intense stufff at the School etc for several weeks now (with good results). Or maybe time to switch to indoor routes for a period?

Exactly. Easy week coming up.

[rginns]

'Kin hell pasty that sounds bad! Glad to hear she's on the mend. I'm sure I'd just freak out and be useless in the same situation.

Cheers Nik.
I did my fair share of freaking out... I think kids have special powers, an uncanny knack of turning grown men into wrecks.

[Dolly]

Been ill for a week so not a lot of activity to report. Have also eaten and drunk too much so have put on weight. Brief 2 week summary.


M Pilates
T Kettle bell sess
W Beastmaker, Started to feel a bit ill
T
F Beastmaker
S Decided I felt better so went for a muddy run along White Edge - probably a bad idea
S Felt properly ill
M ill
T ill
W ill
T a few hours in work
F a bit longer in work then left at 5 for a 50 minute easy session on The Wave. All felt a bit hard, but surprised myself by managing to flash a level 3.
S
S Shed session. Found it hard but did OK in the end


Still getting over the virus thing I think


Shark when will your board be ready for action then ?

[nik at work]

STG Climb outside
MTG (next year) either cave projects/8c
LTG 9a ho-ho-ho...

M - Spent the day at work putting holes in a wall with a breaker, awkward angle of attack etc meant that I totalled my right shoulder (probably not helped by the 400 pressups on Sunday eve if I'm honest...)
T - Nothing, shoulder still wrecked
W - Shoulder feels a bit better so have an unweighted BM session. Go for hang length again with good rest between hangs so shoulder doesn't get tired/stressed. Two handed hangs manage 60s on all pairs down to and including shallow two finger bottom row, 40s on middle finger monos, 30s on ring finger monos, two finger slopey pocket and 45s. Slight improvement over last session.
T - swimming 40 lengths
F - Climbing wall for 1.5 hours do 30 problems (the current boulder league round set and the previous round set). Flash them all except 3 which take a couple of goes each
S - nothing
S - nothing

Pretty meh week, just kind of trundling along. I was hoping to get out on Sat briefly but ill child scuppered that. Maybe this weekend... Was quite pleased with climbing wall performance but was definitely feeling a bit rusty on the slick climbing skills front. Also been eating badly this week, massive chocolate craving all the time. Surprisingly I've managed to drop a bit of weight (down to 56kg from about 58kg a couple of weeks ago) which is odd. Hey-ho.

Next week. Get back into regular BM action, climb outside, eat better (I'll probably only manage 2 out of 3)

[shark]

Shark when will your board be ready for action then ?

I'm putting holds on tonight 

[Dolly]

Nice one.
Let me know when its ready for visiting   (Just a few blokes in a shed)

[fried]

Get well soon little miss Ginns

Crap week. Too much work, too much travelling to work, and sick. Too tired to add an extra hour onto my 3h daily commute to do not much at my wall.

M-F - Nothing
Sat - Fantastic weather, but I'm not feeling great, still head out as I can't bear missing this kind of opportunity. After a year of doing a lot of well-known stuff I decided to go back to Roche qui tourne for a change. This looked like a bad idea when I saw a lot of men with guns and dogs, followed by a wild boar running along side my car, this is the first time I'd ever seen one in Font, impressive although the poor thing looked exhausted. Happily he disappeared across the road and into some woods.

Planless I decided to not waste any time and had another look at Cul de chien. I did a few yellows, picked off a couple of reds then headed out to find the end of the red circuit. Thanks to misunderstanding Rginns instructions I went in completely the opposite direction, after a long and pointless hunt I eventually found it at the beginning of the yellow circuit. I had a play on a couple of things (bain de sang, verglas frequente) but wasn't really feeling up to it. Had a break, did a few yellows/blues at Sabots on the way back to the car. Very tired.

Sun- Nothing

[Schnell]

I hope wee Ginns  is improving

STG: fix tweaky middle finger. continue and progress with shoulder stability exercises also I have one not very crimpy 7A+ project on the go which should get done as soon as I have a decent session while rested
MTG: 7B/+ proj

M: v.short aerocap session at the wall. 20 up and down easy problems. Technique-wise I'm trying to use this to focus on climbing with shoulders engaged.
T.
W. wall training session, FB back two crimping and monos, plus a bit of openhanded campusing on big rungs. I slightly tweaked the finger by getting a bit too enthusiastic on a problem while warming up. stupid
T.
F. wall training session, I was feeling tired after having a late meeting the night before and not sleeping enough so I didn't get much done.
S. work and parent's combined 60th birthday so not a lot of resting.
S. outdoor session in ok conditions. got one new 7A, steep with big holds so ok for the fingers, then I had a few terrible attempts on 7A+ project no.1. couldn't do some moves that I had done first go last time. still a nice day out with friends I haven't seen much recently

Altogether a meh week climbing-wise, to be fair I should be happy with my 7A on sunday because I've failed on it before and it's not my style at all. I'm a bit frustrated with my finger not improving. I haven't had a proper diagnosis because the knowledgeable physio I would go to is away. I also think I'm in a bit of a low point of a cycle and should probably have an easy week.

[nathanie1]

STG: Ben's groove, Fight on black, Fractal, Ju ju club
MTG: 7C, all the 7B+s at Caley
LTG: Zoo York, Jason's roof, Rhythm

M - rest. Leg day, squats, lunges and all that jazz
T - Depot, good session on Beatmaker board and new 30 board, undercuts and pinches
W - rest
T - good woodie session, focusing on poor feet and slow moves between reasonable holds
F - rest, yoga
S - rest, grim weather
S - Almscliff, ticked fractal, pottered about a lot and didn't get more injured

tweaky finger felt pretty bad after two silly sessions on the boards, but after an easy weekend it's looking better. Tendonitis is creeping back.

Plan - ice ice ice, antagonistic training, perhaps avoid plastic for the week. Lamp session at Caley??

[andy_e]

Might also be an idea to avoid fierce crimpfests like Fractal!

[nathanie1]

I wasn't planning on getting on it, but it was pretty much the only unoccupied problem yesterday. My right hand (the non-injured one) took the bulk of the load.

[webbo]

 Mon. Nothing.
Tue. Board worked out 6 new problems did 2 of the right hand versions.
Wed. Nothing.
Thu. Board did 3 of the left hand versions of Tuesday problems and repeated Tuesdays 2.
Fri. Nothing.
Sat. Board. 15 problems the 6 problems 4 times each with screw on footies. Bike pal 46.58 miles 2 hrs 34 mins 18.04 mph.
Sun. Bike 80.22 miles 4 hrs 31 mins. 17.72 mph well battered.

[cheque]

I hope your kid gets better rginns. Hold tight all injured crew.

STG- a font 7 before the end of 2014.

2014 goals- 20 11 E-points, back to 7th grade in sport (won't happen) and bouldering.

LTG- 8a sport, classic trad routes that currently seem way out of my league.


M- Nothing.

T- Nothing.

W- Nothing.

T- Notts Depot. Went with the aim of redpointing the red "7a+" on the circuit board. Felt great warming up and inadvisably did three laps of the board straight off ("6a" into "6c" into "6a" again). I wouldn't say it finished me off but it certainly contributed to me not doing the red circuit... Tried some of the new yellow (pretty hard) boulder problems- Flashed/ second go-ed a few compression/ mantel ones but lacked power for the steep ones. Not sure how much of this is due to climbing Easy Grit all year and how much to my circuit exertions.

F-Rest. Got the new Yorkshire guide (There's quite a lot of grit in Yorkshire isn't there? I haven't climbed on any of the crags in the guide and naively thought that as it featured neither Almscliff, Brimham nor Caley it would be thinner than the first volume ) and got utterly psyched to go out climbing.

S- Rest.

S- Curbar. Not mint conditions but who cares when you haven't touched rock for a month. Flailed on a succession of the ace problems on the crag before doing Art of Japan. Pleased with this as it's an ace problem and my hardest one all year. 

[pyrosis]

STG - be able to rock climb again
MTG - Pow Pow (7B) here in Bishop, Planet of the Apes (7A+) at Joes in April
LTG - Checkerboard, Stained Glass, Mandala

M - worked 12 hours
T - worked 12 hours
W - 60 minutes fingerboard
T - gorged on turkey
F - 1.5 mi walk
S - 1.5 mi walk
S - nada