[fried]

A good week

STG - 10 pull ups
LTG - 7A by 50

Mon - Bit sick, but had an O.K indoor session 6 new problem in the blue circuit to try. Flashed the first 2, being easy for the grade vertical stuff. The next 4 are all overhanging to some degree, start working moves on 1 of them. 7/12 blues done.

Tues - Hit my 10 pull ups YYFY
Wed - Indoor, working 2 of the 4 overhanging probs, slow and tiring work.
Thur - Work
Fri - Decide against another indoor session as the weather looks O.K for tomorrow.

Sat - My pinks have developed a hole, so I put my back-up blancos in my back and headed off for Gorge aux châts. Start off with a couple of blues to warm up, then start on some crimpy red thing, that's one of my benchmark problems to fail on. Plenty of folks around and a good atmosphere. Failed on 'La Grève des Nains' - http://bleau.info/chats/9065.html, should've done better on a couple of reds that I tried. A bit tired so I repeat some blues at the botto of the hill, then decide to have my usual couple of attempts at 'Dalle grise' - http://bleau.info/chats/9035.html.

Decided to put on my blancos and after a few goes I'd reached my previous high point, then I was passed it, a couple of desperate slaps on the top out and it was done. YYFY my first 6A.

Sun - On strike

[Muenchener]

YYFY my first 6A.

Font slab 6A to boot. Well done.

[mindfull]

Was overtrained. STG of raising the bar in training reached ... Did not get injured but didn"t recover anymore. Only light sessions this week and focus on rest and recovery. To weak to run, to weak to do hard climbing, my bed is my friend.
Will adapt the powerlifting scheme to a full body fitness scheme

MTG: marathon (sub 3h), Powerlifting totals up, Climbing 8a sport.
LTG: 100k sub (10h), Climbing "la divine providence (Chamonix)

Mo: (and the rest of the week) Very sore in deltoids and traps. Rest.
Tuesday: Route(1+1)/grade 5&6
Wednesday: Rest.
Thursday: Rest.
Friday: 2x20min (AeroCap), Full Body(Barbell Bent Over Row, Bench Press,Upright Row,Hammer Curl,Lying Triceps extension, Squat,Calf raises, ...) Lightweight 5x5
Saturday: Rest, some Tai Chi
Sunday: Rest
Saturday: Rest

[lagerstarfish]

LTG - 7A by 50

have you started a list yet?

[cheque]

Effort Fried.

I didn't climb or train this week- very busy at work at the moment and I'm having to work at home too so only had free time today (and I'm about to start working now) 

Did my prescribed rehab stretches and massage every day and went out filming today. Back on the Power Club train next week probably.

[Muenchener]

WEEK ENDING 9th NOVEMBER

STG (Autumn): Another decent day or two on the rock this year, weather permitting
MTG: redpoint 7a+
LTG (<= 5 years): Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl West Face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)

M-W: Resting (on laurels). Felt like I might be about to go down with a cold or flu, but in the end didn't (yet?)

T:   Kettlebell 20kg 4xTGU both sides, 3x35 swings. As warm up for: Beastmaker 10 sets, same grips & weight as last week. Actually managed to hang the 35s on my home board for the first time: must be a sign that either I'm getting stronger or the board is finally getting broken in. (On public boards at walls I can do repeaters on 35s and max hangs on 45s; was shocked at how slippery the 35s were on my brand new board when I first got it)

F: Bike to work 30km

S: Wall, Boulderwelt. Bouldered & did some PE circuits, nothing special to report. Undecided whether I'm still in "maintenance training" mode indoors in hope of the glorious autumn weather continuing, or if it's time to start the base mileage phase of my winter training cycle.
Bike to & from wall: 20km in theory but got lost and it felt a lot further.

S: Bodyweight stuff in the park including weighted pullups 5 x 3 x +15kgs. The pullup bar in my local park is fairly  fat, plated with some kind of super slippery zinc and utterly desperate on foggy autumn mornings. Good; all the better for training effect.
40 minutes alpine fitness step-ups w/15kg rucksack; also desperate.

[fried]

LTG - 7A by 50

have you started a list yet?

You must be joking. It's already got a couple of hundred of problems on it. Number one :

[lagerstarfish]

have you got on a few in order to make a start on a short-list?

[csl]

November Goals
Find a UK project (7c+) to work - should have tried one at Brean today, but too busy.
Go Trad climbing
Climb a V8 indoors

Mon - Rest
Tue - Biscuit Factory, Bouldering. Tried a couple of V7's. Did a V6.
Wed - Rest
Thu - Westway. Routes, onsight attempts up to 7b+. Success up to 7a+.
Fri - Rest
Sat - Rest
Sun - Brean
6b, 6c. Tried a 7b+, found it hard so stripped it. Then did a 7b, 2nd go.

I should have got back on Chulilla/tried one of the 7c+'s today as Brean will be a good winter project venue.

[nik at work]

STG - just keep training, outside climbing time is going to be in short supply until after Christmas I suspect...
MTG - climb outside
LTG - cave projects and 8c/+

M - see last weeks post.
T - nothing, beasted
W - unweighted BM session, 20s hangs still felt tired.
T - nothing
F - nothing
S - +35kg BM session, hard!
S - unweighted BM session 20s hangs, started to feel normal again.
Roll on next week...

[shark]

Decided to put on my blancos and after a few goes I'd reached my previous high point, then I was passed it, a couple of desperate slaps on the top out and it was done. YYFY my first 6A.

   good choice of weapon


11.7-8

Rest week

Met up with Barrows and have an outline structure for the winter. Key features: a tweaked systems board routine, lots of fingerboarding and lots of bouldering (but no sieges).

Will ease into it this week.

[andybfreeman]

Season 1 of periodised training. Grampians trip in Jan, aiming to finish off Tyranny 29 and some longer routes on Taipan including Groovy and Venom

M - Rest
Tu - 3 x 30 min continuous on lead
W - 3 x 30 min continuous on lead
Th - 2 x 30 min continuous on lead
F - rest
Sa - First Hangboard session on my new freestanding beastmaker rig. It was a bit of a tester to find the appropriate weight to take off using the two pulley set up but I still felt well worked by then end! 6 grips, 2 sets of repeaters each with an increase in weight for set 2. Finished with some one arm pulls
Su - Long walk with the gf in the morning including a bit of a play on body weight stuff in the park. Arvo of food and booze for a friend's birthday

Weight back up to 71.3kg this morning (too much food and booze yesterday arvo) but average 70 for the week

[kelvin]

STG - Nov. Keep up mileage and work on power.
MTG - Spring. Focus on strength indoors. Have a decent grit season... lead a Brown and Whillans route!
LTG - Next Oct. Take 18 months off and go climbing! Spain for 6 months. Goal - f7a and not a soft one. Also Zeppelin, El Chorro.

Mon - Rest
Tue - Demotivated, hate indoors after being away and was really tired. Led on the overhanging comp wall, a rare thing for me. Made it to two clips from the top of everything I tried, then just powered out. Scared to fall, then didn't want to fall because I was told to, then fell because I wanted the tick and just plain failed. Kicked the wall and had a sulk.
Wed - Quick boulder. Yoga class. This is proving to be illuminating, my whole body is pretty much locked up. Then get on the finger boards to work lock off and pull-up strength. 2 pull-ups in the BM mono slots. Safe to say, the finger's sorted now.
Thu - Aerocap. Climbed right slowly on V0 jugs, holding position on each move for a count of ten. Finally found an exercise that works my weaknesses! Fingers and forearms fine, legs fine... upper arms and shoulders utterly boxed in a powering out way. Just kept grinding it out. Tough, really tough.
Fri - Drive to the Peak.
Sat - Pouring rain at the Roaches but seconded VS Raven Rock gully left hand and an overhanging VS offwidth (the bulger?). A right struggle, learnt loads. Jams held every time, had to back and foot for the first time and had a fun day. Mate headed up the Sloth but it was a waterfall, so he bailed left.
Sun - Skyline, Roaches. Mate ticked Track of the Cat E5. The overhanging, green and sopping wet start was too strong/wet for me but the slab was great. Managed all the moves on it after adding about 6 foot movements to Jonny's sequence, although the last move was tough. Cruised the lower 5b move straight away and the 6a move after it with a couple of tries, then linked them easily enough but didn't manage to link the top move despite finding a workable sequence. Sounds daft but I don't think it would be un-feasible for me to lead this one day. Also bouldered out the start to Wings of Unreason, flip me, it was hard to get the leg up on the lower slab!

Really tried hard this week. Shoulders and upper arms have ached lots but the fingers have felt good.

Followed nai's advice and did a session of holding moves for a count of ten during aerocap, this was boring as fuck but highlighted my poor general strength. May have to separate holding moves from the aerocap for a while however, until I'm stronger! It was a bit too hard, in an effort sense but felt like it worked the part of me that I feel is my weakest link.

Pleased with the mono pullups, good for the psyche but still can't do more than two even on the 4 finger slots at the moment.

A learning week really, as did lots of things I don't enjoy/am rubbish at like overhangs and sitting here in reflection - I must be getting better at that this climbing lark but being any good feels a long way away,

[krymson]

STG: Onsight 6c+
MTG: Become solid 7a/b climber
LTG: Climb hard till old age

M - weights in the morning , Yoga at night
T - Outdoors
-Warmed up on pumpy, overhanging 6a+ - focused on maintaining momentum by using the first holds i touched instead of "adjusting" or 'establishing"
On the way down, rehearsed tricky, crux move of neighboring 7a+ project
-Attempted said, thuggy 7a+ project and sent it putting up the draws! Better awareness of feet and a good warmup definitely helped.
-Tried a 6c+ arete climb with exposure(my weaknesses!) and got up it. Proud send.
-Tried another 6c+ with a boulder problem at the start. Worked the moves but will have to come back for the send.

W antagonists, shoulder work

Th Outdoors
-warmed up on a 6c with varied movement. Focused on using bad handholds and using the feet as much as possible.
-repeated a fun 7a+
-Tried a new 7a+ with varied movement(balancy slab start to face climbing to slightly overhanging arete). Friend gave lots of helpful beta.
-ended the day on a high note by sending it next go!
-Came home super-psyched and made the mistake of trying to wear myself out on the fingerboard - ended up slightly aggravating an A2 pulley.


Fri antagonists, shoulder work
Sat zoo with the lady
Sun Indoor lead wall with friends(6a/b level)
-warmed up doing a few 6a/bs on autobelay, top rope ,and then lead.
-onsight a 6b+
-onsighted a pumpy 6c with roof section by good pacing and maintaining momentum.
-Attempted a sandbagged 7a onsight- got halfway through and had to take. In hindsight, should have  focused on working the moves first go instead of listening to the ego and attempting an onsight at this grade.

Good
Redpointing 7a/+ outdoors in 3 goes or less
Better at warming up

To Improve
Shoulders
Route memorization and visualization.
Keep ego in check

[Muenchener]

STG - just keep training, outside climbing time is going to be in short supply until after Christmas I suspect...
MTG - climb outside

What happened to "spam everybody else"? I was looking forward to that

[fried]

have you got on a few in order to make a start on a short-list?

To my knowledge the hardest problems I've ever touched have been a couple of 6Bs, one of which was Beurre marga. The nature of low-grade font climbing means I tend to follow circuits and occassionally have a go on something off-circuit. I think I'd be hard pushed to even point out more than a couple of harder problems in some of the popular areas.

[T_B]

83.8Kg

M - lunch - School. Bouldering. Good sess.
T -
W - lunch - School. Bouldering, even better than Monday. Getting stronger. Close on a number of benchmark problems on the 50 degree.
T -
F - lunch - Foundry. Stretching, leg pulls and press ups.
S - p.m. - School. Started off bouldering but ankle playing up. Did some weighted hangs (7Kg), bench presses, stuff on rings.

Bit of experimenting this week as trying to do more stretching, antagonistic stuff, plus general strength and core. Psyched for some weighted hangs. Would be nice to get outdoors, but not massively fussed.

[T_B]

Forgot.. also did a p.m. session Wednesday at the works. General bouldering..

[Schnell]

STG: fix finger
MTG: local 7B/+ classic problem, try to get sport/bouldering trip in around christmas or new year

M. tired after weekend away bouldering
T. max hangs in morning, reasonable session with some progress. Eve cycle 20km to wall, arrive tired and fail to warm up properly, inevitably I tweak a finger NNFN, it feels like a collateral ligament on RH middle finger
W.
T. I decide that I imagined the tweak on tuesday so I go to the wall and just don't do any crimping. A slight bit of tenderness but not too bad, though I can't decide if it's my a2 or collateral ligament. None the less I decided to have a rest for the weekend.
F.
S. shoulder stability stuff
S. same again, shoulder stability exercises with weights and theraband

Not a great week, I thought I had learnt my lesson about resting, warming up etc but obviously not. I should have taken two days off at least after last weekend. I'm going to be responsible about this tweak and go ultra easy on it while focusing on shoulder stuff.

[Dolly]

M Foundry Furnace board at lunchtime Pilatesin the evening
T Gym core and weights including Bulgarian Bag - interesting
W Nothing
T Good hard shed sess on the newly reset board
F Back and shoulders ached from THursday night
S Nothing - well I walked to the match quite quickly
S Plantation. Pretty warm really but nice to be out. Had a look at Hippo but you really need a spot for that. Good play on Captain Hook. Didnt do it but have worked out what to do and now just need to do it

[JackAus]

STG: DWS project.
MTG: More V7s?
LTG: V11

Only 1 day climbing this week...

M: Flat Rock. Bunch of easy stuff and worked a V6 (tough!) and worked a project (also about V6). Have now done all moves on the project but each move is fairly tough... Hard to link any together...

[rodma]

have you got on a few in order to make a start on a short-list?

To my knowledge the hardest problems I've ever touched have been a couple of 6Bs, one of which was Beurre marga. The nature of low-grade font climbing means I tend to follow circuits and occassionally have a go on something off-circuit. I think I'd be hard pushed to even point out more than a couple of harder problems in some of the popular areas.

Beurre marga is one of the hardest problems attempted in font by lots of  (unsuspecting) people, regardless of what grade it is given. you should probably try something with a higher number attached. that said, it is a very satisfying problem to tick and if you perservere with it, other comparible problems will feel substantially easier.

[fried]

I already knew it's reputation, but I thought I'd have a go, as I've walked passed it so many times. Nice landing, not too high, didn't get off the ground. It was in the middle of summer.....one for the future.

[tomtom]

I already knew it's reputation, but I thought I'd have a go, as I've walked passed it so many times. Nice landing, not too high, didn't get off the ground. It was in the middle of summer.....one for the future.

Is your question worth a thread of its own? "whats the easiest 7 in Font etc....?"

[fried]

I don't remember asking any questions on this thread.

[kelvin]

Nice one on the 6A anyway fried, I think getting a 6A in the forests is maybe the thing I'm proudest of most this year.

 

[duncan]

STG: week off
MTG: 7b RP this winter. E5 OS, something vertical, classic and not dangerous, next April.
LTG: Long hard (for me) rock routes in the Alps, Dolomites, Picos and Scotland. 7c RP.

M -
T - Westway - bouldering to V3/4, then Anerobic capacity. Good session.
W -
T - Fingerboard - repeaters - R shoulder a little tweaky.
F -
S - Shoulder stability stuff - still a bit tweaky.
S - Weather forecast was marginal so we chose Brean. It was packed like The Westway on Tuesday evening, with many of the same faces. A good scene and nice to see some quite strong people trying things. My inner coach couldn't help notice several people badly need to do some jumping and falling practice!

Warmed-up, including onsighting Bikini Atoll, didn't get on the route I had in mind (Root of Inequity) as the first bolt was in use most of the day. Tried Clashing Socks, came close to doing it first RP after a brief play. Unfortunately foot popped off on the crux, or I caught a sharp hold awkwardly, not sure which happened first. Either way, my finger felt like it had a car door shut on it, off I came, and that was it. A day of low expectations but happy with how I was climbing.


Finger still feels a bit numb today and shoulder a bit battered, so time for a break. Felt solid on Clashing Socks, despite having been on rock once only in the last two months, and very keen to get back on this. Either this is much the easiest of the 7bs I've tried or the training is having some effect. Pleased I didn't get on Root as it's a good candidate for a flash attempt when I'm a bit more fluent on rock again.

I've survived 10 sessions of repeaters in the last 5 weeks, the first time I've done any regular fingerboarding. Strength gains have been small but power-endurance is markedly better. This is not quite what I was aiming for but perhaps what you might expect from an exercise involving 12 'moves' (6x2 arms) in 60-80 seconds. Isn't this Anaerobic Capacity? I'll give the board a rest for a bit then try something closer to 'max hangs' and see what effect that has.

[Muenchener]

I've survived 10 sessions of repeaters in the last 5 weeks, the first time I've done any regular fingerboarding. Strength gains have been small but power-endurance is markedly better. This is not quite what I was aiming for but perhaps what you might expect from an exercise involving 12 'moves' (6x2 arms) in 60-80 seconds. Isn't this Anaerobic Capacity? I'll give the board a rest for a bit then try something closer to 'max hangs' and see what effect that has.

I'm systematically beastmaking for the first time too, but have opted for a - I think - more strength-oriented pattern for now: 5 seconds on, ten seconds off, five reps. Barrows Protocol. Seems to be working: the routine I started with and could only just do at bodyweight in September I can now do at +5 kgs.

Will probably try repeaters in the spring PE phase.

[Sasquatch]

STG - Mandala

M-Walk on treadmill
T - Campus - Best campus session ever. 
W-Arc
Th-Rest
F-Campus -good session, but not quite as good as Tuesday.
S-Easy Hike
S-Rest

Crazy week. Short tight sessions, and 70+ hours of work.  So keen for Bishop!!!!!!! I leave wednesday, will get on it on thursday or friday depending on travel

[T_B]

Good luck Sasquatch! Sounds as though you're in great shape for it. Look after your skin 

[Sasquatch]

Thanks!  I'll post up a couple of times if I get a chance.

[tomtom]

Sorry I'm late!

STG enjoy and progress

M:
Tu:

W: Popped in at Bleurghbage West on the way from Hull > Manchester for a quick and dirty session on west side story. First time since March that temps felt good and that conditions would be fine. Warming up on the slabby probs to the left of the nose dispelled this myth... no friction - glassy... However after failing on all of my usual warm ups I moved over to WSS and it felt great! I had about an hour on it, of structured 3 attempts (with a small rest between) followed by a 5 min break and repeat.. slowly worked my way into the problem and by the end got to catching the final side pull and organising my feet for the deadpoint to the porthole... Then stopped as my LH index finger was close to going through...
The moves on WSS are interesting.. I have to pull really quite hard with the LH to keep on all the time - but the pops up to the sidepulls are a strange mix of throw, tense and relax... anyway onwards...

Th: Met up at Curbar with Sheffields premier mobile barista and boulderization hustler: Lagerstarfish. Pleasant warm ups at Trackside and then up to the pit of Gorilla problems... I've not done a thing in the Gorilla pit, Lagers most.. so I was there to shamelessly gain as much beta from him as possible. Spent most of the time working Early Doors (the ending of GW just seems a bit crap) and made progress, finally doing the last part and topping out \o/ but had run out of beans/enthusiasm to link the traverse part to the up part.. Lagers was on good form - displaying some fine scrittle hustling moves by saving his flash of Early Doors for when there was an audience Moved up the hill to Seans arete - Lagers had not tried it and its been 3 years or so since I did it. I have (had) fond memories of Seans - nice balancy guppy moves up the arete etc.. but was no-where close on thurs. My final bouldering act of the day was shaving a large amount of skin off my shin - after which we retired.. Hello to the two folks we met up there - sorry for my duff Seans beta!




F: Felt completely done in! battered!
Sa: Similar - at least it was raining...

Su: Blackstones. Headed there to meet up with R-Man and others from the Lancs Bouldering collective for a sort of guide launch/meet. Connies were not ideal - a bit damp where not in the sun and not a great deal of wind to dry things out. In other words, great conditions for lying about and reading a paper in November (if such a thing exists), but sub-optimal for bouldering... Anyway, a team set to work on the trig boulder - which yielded a truly fine set of balancy, slab, arete and pebble pulling moves. Rarely have a seen such a small expanse of rock give so many great moves... Managed to dry off (and do) a 7A dyno problem up there. Then headed to try 'Fridge Hugger' - an interesting looking 7B+ by the 'Twins' boulders. Its hard - very hard I pulled very hard and made partial progress but some way off! My core still hurts today! One for the future maybe...


Heuco Blocs at Blackstone Edge

A good week - with a low number of trips out (2.5) but I'm feeling battered - so obviously having a good work out on both of those days.

[nai]

I've survived 10 sessions of repeaters in the last 5 weeks, the first time I've done any regular fingerboarding. Strength gains have been small but power-endurance is markedly better. This is not quite what I was aiming for but perhaps what you might expect from an exercise involving 12 'moves' (6x2 arms) in 60-80 seconds. Isn't this Anaerobic Capacity? I'll give the board a rest for a bit then try something closer to 'max hangs' and see what effect that has.

I'm systematically beastmaking for the first time too, but have opted for a - I think - more strength-oriented pattern for now: 5 seconds on, ten seconds off, five reps. Barrows Protocol. Seems to be working: the routine I started with and could only just do at bodyweight in September I can now do at +5 kgs.

Will probably try repeaters in the spring PE phase.

I find 6/7 reps too many but it's worth remembering that both the Beastmakers and Andersons (Rock Climbers Training Manual) suggest this many (Functional Hypertrophy?). Although the I think Andersons do suggest that this is with a focus on training for routes and that it isn't a perfect solution but a balance between strength and specifity?

I recently did a short top-up block of sets of 4 & 3 reps, 7s on, 3s off.  The 4-rep set is performed at a base weight and the 3-rep set with as much extra as possible, usually 2-3kg.  These were quite effective, made some good gains.

Couple of years ago I used to do a session of max hangs followed by one of 4-rep hangs the following day.  This was effective too, never had a higher 1RM, even when just doing max hangs, so I think there's something in performing reps, just how many is the question.

I think for my next block I'll start doing the 4&3 rep routine for 4/5 sessions then add in sessions including max hangs later.

[abarro81]

I can take no credit for the 5-on-10-off protocol, I stole it from Ben Davison

[pyrosis]

Can I rejoin the club? It's been a long time!

STG: Reset the home wall, get a few last licks in before hardware removal surgery from R ankle 13 November
MTG: Recover from surgery without reinjury, maintain as much strength as possible, 7A again by January 1
LTG: Midnight Lightning, Mandala, Spectre

M: @work 12 hrs, after work stripping holds on the home wall ~50% stripped
T: @work 12 hrs, after work stripping holds *DONE*
W: Route setting
Th: Route setting
F: Route setting *done*, ~1K holds, ~30 taped problems so far from 4A-7C+ish
Sa: Bouldering at the catacombs, basically a slew of moderates including 6A x3, 6B x1
Su: Laundry day, worked a bunch on the home gym: ripping out old carpet, installing black rubber mats for yoga/handstands

[LB]

FIrst Post! In fact I haven't posted much at all. I think I've probably met a few people pottering around the peak though. This may not be the most exciting contribution.

M: Raven Tor. Nearly did four move link in the middle of Powerband but kept dropping off the crux. However, maybe a realistic goal for next year. Good motivation. Went into the wall on the way home mainly to see some people and partially dislocated my knee. It clicked back in to place and I was able to drive home but painful.

T: Knee hurts and I can't really bend it. Walking hard. Stairs very difficult.

W: Mobility a lot better. See GP. He says he thinks the cruciate ligament is probably only strained but it is difficult to tell.
 
T: My knee feels a lot better. Go to the wall to see how foot on campusing feels.

F: Knee really swollen. Worse than tuesday.

S:

S: Go to Exeter for a job interview.

STG: Let knee recover
MTG: 7B this winter
LTG: 8a

Sorry for the miserable post. Hopefully I can come up with something more exciting soon (fingers crossed).  The Lancs bouldering sounds ace tomtom. I'll be psyched to get out with the new guidebook once I've fixed up.

[nik at work]

What happened to "spam everybody else"? I was looking forward to that

SPAM ALERT...

You do weighted pull ups in the park? That is about the most boss thing I've ever heard in my life!

I reckon you're aiming a bit low with the incremental grade increase to 7a+ next year. Looking at your training performance you certainly have the strength (weighted pull-ups, hanging 45's, repeaters on 35's) and anyway I'm a big fan of whole number grade jump targets (7a, 7b, 7c, 8a, 8b...). Basically 7b is where it's at.

Also, I've scanned back across the last few weeks of your posts and... You don't seem to get out on rock that much (usually once a week?) and the rest of the week is typically training at home/the local park (LIKE A BOSS) or at the wall. So you're hitting the training pretty hard relative to climbing time. So in your situation when I did get to the wall I'd get on routes if possible? Working a hard 'un (7b/+?) and going for the onsight on newly set 6b/c stuff. My reasoning being that if this training/climbing ratio is an ongoing situation then I'd say you need to keep your "climbing" skill up-to-date. You're doing plenty of lets-get-strong stuff so bouldering at the wall isn't adding much (especially as your target is a route so is likely to have much easier moves than you, as someone seemingly fairly strong, will be able to bust out on the bouldering wall) also doing pull-ups at a wall always strikes me as a really expensive way to do pull ups. So doing circuits would seem more focussed, but it isn't climbing up so whilst the fitness type stuff transfers I still reckon you'd get more from climbing well... up. Don't know if that's possible at your wall??
I'm a bit of an old climbing-is-about-technique-as-much-as-power hippy though...

So you read back through my last few weeks of power club and hey-ho it's been all BM sessions and very little actual climbing, hmmmm hoist by my own petard...

[Muenchener]

Thanks.

I do have two pretty good local lead walls, but haven't done much on them this year because I lacked motivation. I don't enjoy doing routes on plastic much, and tbh I also tend to avoid them because I don't like being pumped and don't cope with it very well. My outdoor successes tend to be on bouldery/cruxy things. So yes, that is definitely something I could and should work on more and have been avoiding.

[webbo]

 Mon. Looking at a house.
Tue. Meeting with mortgage broker.
Wed. Board did a project after quite a lot of goes and repeated a couple of things.
Thu. Turbo 1 hr before work. Evening board hard mirror session 41 problems.
Fri. Nothing.
Sat. Board repeated Wednesdays problem. Did a few other repeats including a problem I couldn't repeat last time I tried it. Turbo 1 hour.
Sun. Bike 74.11 miles 4 hrs 5 mins 18.10 mph
Feet felt a bit better at times and I climbed two days on the trot for the first time in months.

[kelvin]

because I lacked motivation. I don't enjoy doing routes on plastic much, and tbh I also tend to avoid them because I don't like being pumped and don't cope with it very well

Could be me talking there mate.

If it helps, I've actually got stuck in recently and even tho I don't enjoy it, I am starting to see/feel the results. Apart from the crux (that took four attempts to get right) I fair walked up a 6c on TR this week and having only ever climbed one juggy 6b indoors... that's pretty quantifiable in my book. It's now a STG for the month.

It'll never be rock or the boulder room but it's at least as fun as weighted pull-ups in the park.

[tomtom]

Welcome LB! sounds like a nasty injury to recover from...

[Muenchener]

it's at least as fun as weighted pull-ups in the park.

I find that hard to imagine

[rginns]

OK, my first post on UKB training diary - I used to post years and years ago on Simon's UKC thread back in the day, and it was actually useful, so I've decided to join the club to see if it motivates me to get more training done and actually acheive a few things. I've compiled a list of problems I want to do this winter, but I need to get focussed...

65 Kg
STG = Consolidate 7A, get a few established Lancs classic 7As ticked by the end of winter.
MTG = 7B - By this time next year it will be good to have done at least one quarry based 7B.
LTG = 7C ha ha ha ha ha ha although I've given myself until I'm 40 (7 yrs).

M = Working in Evry, stayed in Bourron Malotte at a lovely farmhouse.
T = Fontainebleau Roche aux Sabots - taking advantage of working in the area - wet at first so only had a couple of hours in the afternoon, but had a good work out after wandering around videoing mushrooms (wtf / don't ask / see recent wildlife thread..)... Managed a few easy problems (sub 6b) and then worked some harder stuff (but failed). Surprised myself though, I think I'm quite a bit better than last time I was here..
W = knackered
T = Fingerboard session, 1.5 hours, leg raises. Felt weak.
F = Usual Longworth Lane run, 4.5k, ab-ripper X seshun to beast the CORE
S = Rockover Manchester with Dave and R-Man - good session really although only had a couple of hours. Managed two pink (V5-6?) problems and lots of easier ones, felt quite fit for a change
S = Started work on the 10 degree board opposite the steep one. Got the diagonals bolted to the rafters (big milestone)

I'm making good progress with the new board, it's nearly ready for the ply to go on - I've just got to finish the shelving properly behind it and it's ready to go. The CRUSHER holds will be arriving soon and be a good addition to the board(s), I'm thinking of starting again and resetting everything once the new board is complete. Have decided to relocate the other fingerboard that Andyd gave me once frame is done. Hopefully this will add to the training psyche.
Progress might be a bit slow due to a complaint from the neighbour about the banging and drilling at 2am the other morning (whoops, guess the late night coffee-induced DIY will have to stop...)

[nik at work]

Hello pasty man 

Meunchener as a fellow hater of the pump I sympathise with your predicament. However I would say that if you can embrace the humiliating stupid failure on easy moves then reasonable gains can quite quickly be made on stamina. For me the gains were twofold.
1 I gained stamina, durrr obvs...
2 In some ways more importantly I gained a better understanding of how pumped I was feeling. That is to say that instead of just going from strong to boxed I can now to an extent appreciate how pumped I am and assess how I am recovering at a rest. This awareness ( which I don't think I've explained very well) made a massive difference to me.
Having said all that I'm still a massive punter at stamina type stuff and on any long (20m+ is long for me) overhanging stamina plod I will overgrip my way up jugs until falling on yet another easy move pumped out of my gourd at a frustrating and depressing height.

Anyway if you have the opportunity to work this I'd take it, but not at the expense of weighted pull ups in the park...

[Muenchener]

2 In some ways more importantly I gained a better understanding of how pumped I was feeling. That is to say that instead of just going from strong to boxed I can now to an extent appreciate how pumped I am and assess how I am recovering at a rest. This awareness ( which I don't think I've explained very well) made a massive difference to me.

Clear enough explanation. My Other 7a Project has a hardish overhanging section, then a shake-out at a bomber jug, then the crux. I need to get my head around the idea that arriving at the jug a bit pumped isn't the end of the world.